APC - User - ss-rotel

need some help please

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:25:17 GMT

OR upgrade to windows 7 Pro, and use "XP Mode" free vm-ware from Microshaft! Of corse, this only works if you CPU has VT.

Define Browser per program

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:16:09 GMT

ummm... y not just make gmail you homepage in chrome, and open chrome, not the gmail link? they are seperate programs, and al you need to tell it to stop doing is checking that it's the default brouser. wouldn't that work?

Xp wont install,Dual Boot

Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:37:56 GMT

ok, how BSOD works - the string of numbers that you get @ the bottom is very important, with the first one the most important. Soo... from that picture, you have a STOP error of 0x000007B. this can be abrivated, (you dont need ALLL the 0's), to 0x7B. If you google that STOP error, you'll find out what the problems is. It refers to an inacessable boot device. Either you're HDD's dieing, you're HDD controller, (be it the one on the drive, or the one on your motherboard), is dieing, the driver that Windows uses to access the above, (HDD or HDD controller), has corrupted, or you've corrupted the MBR, (Master Boot Record). The first google reponce should be the MS fix, and the next one is a pcsupport.about.com info page about the STOP error. Personally, i think you've deleted or corrupt the 8mb boot partition that windows uses to store boot information, or your dual boot install has corrupted the MBR my 2c - i dont understand why ppl play with dual boot on a single drive. when you can pick up a 500gb for under $60, just install 1 per drive, and swap boot drives in the BIOS? Would save alot of the above heartache, and time wasted trying to find a fix :)

Xp wont install,Dual Boot

Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:47:14 GMT

i only quickly googled you're stop error, i didn't read, the "how do i fix it" part of the results, that you can do. best way to learn, it to jump in and give it a go. i'm just here to point you in the hopefully right direction Good luck

Xp wont install,Dual Boot

Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:50:57 GMT

[quote=NC1717]#### I installed win 7 32 bit on the second partion[/quote] before or after the XP install? What was the state of the HDD before you started? was it new? did it have data on it? did you use something like partition magic to change the size? was windows 7 on here before you started? if it's win7 Pro or above, and you have VT on you're CPU, y not just download and use windowsXP mode?

Xp wont install,Dual Boot

Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:03:35 GMT

... just had a quick "look" @ the tut, should be a warning on it "not for the novice" that's pretty technical stuff, and if you stuff it up in anyway, you'll break the partition information and MBR. There's a 8mb boot partition that vista/win7 makes, and if you've resized that, you'll pretty much need to format the system, and start again. if you do that, you can make the partitions inside the windows 7 installer. like i said before, if it was me, i'd have a second HDD with the winXP installed on it, and swap the boot seq. via the bios. If u do that, make sure you only have 1x HDD connected during each installation, or you'll end up with a screwd up MBR. again

Xp wont install,Dual Boot

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:41:12 GMT

ORRR you need to use a copy of win XP that SP2 or above.

Define Browser per program

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:44:31 GMT

i'm useing a program called Rainmeter for some extra eye candy It comes out of the box with a cooler plug that does the whole notify thing, but yes, it will only load the default brower. There is not way to associate a particular page to a browser load up as far as i know, as windows, again, as far as i know, will only assciate via extention. the otherway would be, if you have a smartphone, set up email via that. My gmail notification gets done via my iphone. With a bit of reading, you can also set up calenders and contacts, pretty much like exchange.

How to SPEEEEEED up Win 7

Tue, 11 May 2010 12:59:47 GMT

[quote=GavoAus]Yes i don't run that many but every now and then it just chews my CPU like no tomorrow[/quote] It's possible that you have malware. usually consistant 100% CPU load, while you're not doing anything, that's REALLY obvious during day to day use, is malware. malwarebytes Anti-malware's the shiz

Too many Viruses

Fri, 14 May 2010 21:21:26 GMT

think i said this in another post, but no AV software is 100% effective. Conflicker was also known as the April 1st virus last year, and made the news. Kasperski's has a standalone removal tool, that is free to download off their site. Well it was last time i had to specifically remove that one. Malwarebytes Anti-malware will get rid of Antivirus 2008-2009, but getting rid of 2010 is a little more difficult, good luck to you who get's that one. If you google any of this, take anything from a site called thebleepingcomputer.com as gospel.. The peeps posting on that site know what they are talking about.

winxp key

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:50:51 GMT

you wont be able to get "just" the key, but a copy of XP pro is still available @ Gamedude computers for something like $210 for the OEM disk and Key Also, if it ran Vista, maybe try win7? it's only $120 for a 32bit win7 disk from the same place

Stopping xp support?

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:05:18 GMT

... you'll find Vista will lose product support before xp will...

What's the deal with no ACPI?

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:59:48 GMT

I'm sure that MS did alot of work in 7 in that hardware layer, (read driver), as it has been optimised for netbooks @ some level. Power saving, regardless of the chiptype, uses pretty much the same hardware layer. I have found that 95% of all drivers are available via windows update regardless of the age of the machine, and anything else, if you look hard enuf, someone's already tried this, and found the right driver needed. You can also google the Hardware ID of the item without drivers, to give you the generic chiptype, and the there will be a driver listed, usually. IF windows isn't listing it as without a driver dont worry about it. my old MSI laptop, in XP, 2 hours battery life, in vista, 20 mins, in win 7 1-1.5 hours. Considering i didn't download drivers specific for any of the vista or win7 installs, (used the available MS driver), shows that the power save code in 7 is pretty good

3 or 30 days of grace?

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 06:07:35 GMT

30-60 days is trial, dependant on the versions and software 3 days is if you're done a major upgade to the system, and windows decides you need to re-activate. This SHOULD only happen with OEM software. @ the end of the day, MS's liscening aggreement for OEM is that the software is to - a) only be installed on 1 machine b) MS will give no support of OEM software, as support is the responsibility of the system builder. OEM software SHOULDN'T be available to the General public There is a lot more to the aggreement, but this is only what's valid here. So, hopfully, This should explain why most computer store only sell OEM windows with Hardware. Buying hardware is easiest way to prove to MS if it's an issue that you are a system builder. were this comes into play, if you upgrade a machine, there's apoint were you have to prove, (read re-activate) to windows that this is the same computer, just upgraded, not a new computer you've just slapped the installed HDD into. Techinically, were a) factors in, that windows SN is supposed to Die with that machine. Legally they can't police or enforce this, as you've paid for this SN, so they made it annoying for the gen public. Cos it's been Activated already, you shouldn't have problems re-activating it, (or so is the theory), hence 3 days

64-bit os? or not.

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 06:14:11 GMT

ok, end of the day, you dont need x64 windows to run an x64 CPU, but you can't install x64 windows on a x86 CPU Yes and no, x64 xp isn't great, but this is mainly due to limited driver support. If you have hardware that was current to when it was available, you'll have no trouble, but anything newer or older by much, good luck. 64bit windows is only really a good idea if you're planing to run 64bit software, like adobe CS4/5 and only photoshop is 64bit really. As far as i know, most games aren't 64bit optimised, and those that are will have a 32bit variant. That said, when you can buy a copy of windows 7 Home premium x64 for sub $130, why not?

Free Website Builder Software

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 06:17:03 GMT

Joomla for the win! HEHEH really, HTML's Easy! L2 use photoshop and dreamweaver! (i know this doesn't help, but i've been up since 3am, i've had 4 hours sleep, and blah)

Can't Defrag . No space!

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:44:36 GMT

burn it, get a new one. heheh (i know, that doesn't help, but they've beaten me to the correct answer...)

I.E. and flash player

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 13:59:12 GMT

IE breaks. *shrugg* if firefox works, why not stick to firefox? Or try out Chrome? Honestly, if you end up with a broken copy of IE, there's not much you can do about it, aside from un-installing and re-installing it, and if that don't work, re-install Windows completely. Sorry.

How to SPEEEEEED up Win 7

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:05:12 GMT

... you need atleast 2gb memory to run windows 7 properly, (from experience). (unless you're running windows starter, but who does?) depending on the age of the machine... maybe you need a hardware upgrade, not a software downgrade. Vista is worse then Win 7.

Win7 wireless networking?

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:32:09 GMT

ok... this is a security "upgrade" since Vista, when it's net-code was built on Server 2003 tech. You'll need to create a user WITH a password on the Windows 7 machine. The password is VERY important. once you try and access the share, it'll ask for the username/password enter it in, you should be able to tick, "remember me" or "remember credentials", (note sure, it's been a long time since i've done this, and all my personally machine's use win7 and homegroup) or something, so you don't have to do that again Should now be able to access the files As a security feature, Vista or win7 will reject a login request if there's no password in the packet, EVEN if the username doesn't have a password, (i believe it checks for a password, then checks the password). like i said, Very important Might be worth upgrading to win7 on the XP machine. For startes the net-code is almost 10x faster, (with a layer2 managed ASUS gigabyte switch with jumbo frames setup), we've managed to get a sustained 95mb's per sec, (megabytes, no megabits), from system to system. I'm pretty sure you'll only ever get 10-12 on XP or Vista. or something like that. again, i's been a while, and i have nothing to test/confirm that

Win7 wireless networking?

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:36:47 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]EvilChickenMonkeyWhat exactly happens when the XP machine tries to access files from win7? Have you disabled password protected sharing?[/quote] This will only work with a Vista or Win7 machine. I dont THINK this works with an XP machine. again, i can't remember, but i'm pretty sure you'll still be asked to log in, (net-code checking for a password), and since you've disabled the password, you it wont let you in anyway. .... i have a file sever running win7 with homegroup and media shareing setup, (thinkin of getting homesever, but i'll need to move nearly 4TB of data before i do, so maybe too much effort), where homegroup is basically 1/2 a domain setup. If you have some server backgroud, you can acutally lock down folder access on a machine corisponding to a person's log in. works, but can be a little annoying.

Vista 32 bit has catastrophic failure

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:45:09 GMT

[quote=Anonymousewiuu2945u389]but I've heard some good things about stubborn malware removal with Malwarebytes' Anti-malware (it should work in addition to PC Tools in safe mode as it lacks a real-time scanner, but anyone else feel free to rebut this.) [/quote] I use this all the time to remove Virii after the fact. AWESOME for a free bit of software. Swear by it. If you buy it you get real-time TSR scanning. I use AVG or Microsoft security essentials, (or nothing at all), and just have Malwarebytes on my pen drive ready to install if i have problems. If you read up on it, it's very easy to copy the definistions files from an updated copy on one machine and install and update on the infected. Save's you pluging the infected system in your network.

Advice reverting back to XP from Win 7?

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:48:08 GMT

Umm... no he cant, (do with out the Video card). Sorry Halcon and GK Even thou the i3 has a GPU in it, you have a board running the P55 chipset. Which has no provision to pass the Video out. you need a H55 chipset board. I only just saw this post. I would have pointed out that you should first make sure ALL drivers and firmware is up to date. Glad that you worked it out. you learn more when you do that. BUT i would HIGHLY recomment you uninstall that drivwiz program. Stuff like that makes me shudder. seen too many programs like that create odd and hard to find issues with computers. USUALLY video card drivers are realesed monthly, (ATI do anyway), and it's never a bad idea to make sure you're drivers aren't out of date more then a few months.

Advice reverting back to XP from Win 7?

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:56:45 GMT

[quote=Halcon]At present, I would like to upgrade my video card, the only thing is one that may support my system processor and makes use of less power demands, I wish I could put a top range, but the problem is this may be not supported also it may not be redundant, unless the system is brand new. [/quote] OK... i can't think of a video card that would be incompatable with a CPU, just that there is a point were the CPU becomes a bottle kneck to the system, and pouring money in the a top of the line card will not increase the gaming performance. I'm running a E6550 with a pair of GTX465's in SLI. IT. IS. AWESOME. AND from what i remember of what you mentioned before in the post, (too lazy to look back), you have a dell with a Core 2 CPU, not much different to mine. (apart from the 1ghz overclock, and that it's running on a Striker II board...) I HAD an I7 with a pair a 5770's in CF. I recon this is faster in 50% of what i do, and no slower in the other 50%. AND most of it was free, (not the video cards thou... my 5770's paid for them) It'll depend on what you wanna do. If you use Adobe CS5 say, you'll wanna get a card with CUDA, (nvidia), if it's just for gaming, go ATI for the money. one thing to think about thou, in 2D ati 5xxx cards use the least amount of power then anything else out there ATM. also produce the least heat @ idle. worth thinking about.

Unable to install Office 2007 in XP

Thu, 11 Nov 2010 12:28:56 GMT

why not just run Windows 7? it's so much better then either of those 2x op systems, and new Home Premium, which is all you need, is just over $100.

Vista 32 bit has catastrophic failure

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:40:55 GMT

buy copy of windows 7 and format start again :) ... Unfortunenately, Vista, (or win 7 for that matter), doesn't have a repair install feature as such. You CAN do an ungrade install if you have a higher version of vista, (so, if you have home premium, you can "upgrade" to business or ultimate), and it will do a pseudo repair install, but this isn't really an option is it. The repair feature of the Vista disk wasn't very good, and chances are that it will destroy the dual boot feature or you MBR, and probably wont fix your vista problem. Windows 7's repair is better, (read usually works, were Vista's one worked if you were lucky) Try Safe mode, and try installing and running Malwarebytes Anti-malware, (treat this like a virus attack) If you can't run safe mode, try doing a full system scan of the files in XP. BTW, if you have password protected your vista install, and set directories as private, this wont work... XP wont be able to access the file to scan them, and prob wont fix the issue if it's a virus. I'd personally use XP to back up you're data, and do a complete fresh install. OR buy a new $70 Terabyte HDD, and a copy of win7HP and do a fresh install :) (i missed if this was a laptop or a desktop, and honestly too tired/lazy to go back and check) Good luck regardless

Window vista product key activation

Sun, 12 Dec 2010 17:16:27 GMT

... go buy windows 7. it'll be cheaper in the long run.

Old pci card

Fri, 17 Dec 2010 16:23:20 GMT

i wanna pink phone. ACTually, i'd like a day glow yellow phone... hook a bro up yeah?

Stop MyDocuments syncing back to C:

Fri, 31 Dec 2010 02:03:54 GMT

There is a registry hack you nbeed to do. if you google it, you'll find it. I can't be bothered looking it up for you. ppl need to learn to google properly... like - "how do i redirect my user profile to another drive"

Dual boot WVista Ubuntu freezes at start

Fri, 31 Dec 2010 02:18:53 GMT

before you run chkdsk, make sure it's not another hardware issue. run memtest check event logs if it just hangs, check your video card drivers run prime95 see if it hangs... if all else fails, try chkdsk. if you break the bootloader, there are programs online that will help you fix it... like bartpe. i do understand why you didn't use a secondary HDD on a laptop, (you can't), but i dont understand why ppl to dual boots on desktop machines. Why not install each op system on a seperate drive, and just change the boot order in the bios? HDD's are sooo cheap these days... i mean, 2tb Samsung sub $100?! My 8tb array failed today, with 4tb data on it... rah... looks like i'm going to have to spend my the money i had save up for parts for my car to buy drives to recover the data onto... At least i'm not spendin too much. @ the end of it, i'll have 6x1tb drives, and 2x1.5tb drives, i wont need to use. will also use substancially less power to run :) but still... that money was for stuff! not computer Stuff!!!

Dual boot WVista Ubuntu freezes at start

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:30:21 GMT

Yes, that is something you could do, but VM for windows either needs VT on a CPU, (and most older laptops dont have that, or you need to run VMware, which cost's money. There are a few others, that are free, but i'm pretty sure the require VT.

Stop MyDocuments syncing back to C:

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:36:47 GMT

[quote=Peter try hard]I think you might have got it wrong! Most pcs are set up with a d drive for the os and the c drive is then set to contain all your documents. So you could strat all the work on your pc again. Set the d drive up as a small partition and then use the c drive for all your documents. no more fighting microsoft![/quote] ok, i just read this ... i mean really read this ... i have no idea were that come from, but it makes no sense @ all. Unless you change it, Windows installs on the C drive, if you're running Vista or win7, you end up with a hidden systerm partition with bootloader information on it, and D drive is your CD drive. for some reason, alot of laptops and "harvey norman" PC have a "DATA" parition, that no one uses, but that's not a "microsoft feature".

Windows 7 Crash

Thu, 06 Jan 2011 10:56:34 GMT

This spam is awesome. poker site link, i love it. i'm really too tired to pull this post apart...

svchost.exe application error

Sun, 09 Jan 2011 22:45:20 GMT

svchost is pretty much the launcher for lots of things, inc viruses. I recon you have or had a virus. Run malwarebytes anti malware, then run SFC to check for and repair corrupt system files.

svchost.exe application error

Mon, 10 Jan 2011 19:11:29 GMT

AAHAHAHAHA my bad.

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:27:44 GMT

Could also be heat related. if you're CPU's HSF is gummed up with dust, and the motherboard detects the CPU's getting too hot, it'll turn off the machine without warning, (well, it's supposted to start beeping @ you, but i've seen many a computer without the PC installed... no PC speaker, not beep) to check this, the next time the system switches off go into the BIOS and have a look @ the hardware temps. if the CPU's up in the 70-80degC then you more then likely have a heat related problem. the only way i recomend to ppl without knowing how computer savy they are, get a paint brush, and brush all the dust out of the computer onto the floor, and vacuum the mess. without knowing what you're doing, using a vacuum or compresses air in a computer can do damage. you can knock off a component, or air rushing past metal can cause a static charge. also might be worth reseating the HSF with some fresh thermal grease. Also, while you're in the bios, check the voltages. make sure the 12v 5v and 3.3v is within tolerences. specifically the 12v. My system was doing the same thing, but when i went to turn it on, it would spin up my raid array 1 drive @ a time. my PSU was strugling to run my SLI, overclocked Q8400, and 4x 150gb Raptors in STRIPE. 750w Silverstone Zeus, with a 66amp 12v rail didn't cut it. 12v was @ 11.25+/- running a Cosair TX950, with a 75amp 12v rail. 12v @ 11.75+/- which is JUST within tolerance, and no more random shut downs.

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:28:43 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]Other possibilities are temperature or a BSOD that's not being shown. Can you check your temps and confirm that your system isn't set to automatically restart on system failure[/quote] OOPS... i obviously only read the 1st line :) Sorry ECM

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Sat, 15 Jan 2011 17:30:27 GMT

[quote=Nev]I don't think the PSU is overheating. It's cooling fan is thermostatically controlled and seldom operates.[/quote] It's not the PSU cooling, it's the PSU not being able to supply enough current to run you're system. i am not an electrical engineer, so correct me if i'm wrong, but there are 3 things you have to look @ when looking @ the PSU. Volts, Amps and Watts. Volts is pretty much irrelevent, but if they are testing low, this is a symptom of a problem. Watt's is how much power your system can be supplied, and Amps is how quickly that power can be supplied. now here's the thing, there is also something called nominal and max power draw. kinda like RMS and PMPO in stereos. Most Cheap PSU's state the Max rated power. I've seen 500w PSU's with the same spec on the stick as a 250w of the same brand. awesome Anyway .. (i'm sitting here watching V on cable, and paramore's on...mmmmm hailey from paramore...) .. If your system is drawing more current then your powersupply can ... supply... then something has to give. USUALLY the voltage drops slightly making the system unstable, and in some cases shutdown. A good motherboard will detect the drop in voltage and switch off. My Striker board does, and when i start the system after this, it spins the HDD's up 1 @ A time. on boot, your computer will draw maximum current. getting a HDD to spin to 7200RPM in fractions of a second will draw a fair bit of current. Do that to a bunch, and you really need a bit of power to make it work. once they are there, they dont need that much power again, usually. But if there's not enough to sustain the speed, an error's sent to the controller, and alsorts of thing happen. This is the reason why i hate ppl that skimp on PSU's. they are the heart of the system, they supply the blood that makes your computer run. you buy a cheap and nasty PSU, if they aren't up to the task, then no mater how cool the parts you're using, or what they are Rated to require, your system's going to be an expensive paper weight... anyway... i've kinda rambled, sorry... what i'm trying to say is, i think it's power related. if it wasn't, then there'd be something more obvious in the logs. [quote=Nev]I also disabled the Automatic Restart on System Failure.[/quote] Did you get a BSOD? What STOP error did it bring up? [quote=Nev]I have updated some of the drivers using both Drivermax and Driver Easy. Both of these are a bit dodgy as some of the drivers wouldn't install.[/quote] NO! WHY?! i hate these tyes of programs, they cause more problems then they fix. first thing i'd do is make sure that they un-install properly and completely and hope that windows 7 updates will find the right drivers. failing that, us system restore till before you had all these troubles, and run windows update. [quote=Nev]PS Which drivers are the sus ones?[/quote] i dont know. it's your computer. it should be in the logs as to what's wrong. OR if you're getting a BSOD error, then the 1st number you get, if you google, should give you what's up. and you can usually google without the 1st bunch of zeros. EG 1x0000209 you googl 1x209 and you'll get a hit. if it's not showing a BSOD cos it's restarting before you acutally see it, it should be listed in the logs. If you're not getting this, and i wasn't when i was having the same problem, i'd bet money it's power related.

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Sat, 15 Jan 2011 17:31:03 GMT

wow... that was a long post :) ... sorry ...

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 20:22:47 GMT

sorry. not alot of ppl have much of a actual electronics side of the hardware :) ummm... i dont know. since you're not getting a STOP error code, (BSOD error or the like), in your log. Everything sounds ok. I mean, if it was hardware, you should have some sort of tell tail... Is it a completely random thing? or does it tend to always happen when you do something specific? If it's completely random, then I got nothing hey... and unfortunately i think it's your installation, and much as i hate to admit it, i would conseed defeat, and re-install from scratch. (get this on a USB key or a USB HDD and s windows 7/vista install is about 20 mins... :)

WIN7 SHUTTING DOWN

Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:19:38 GMT

[quote=Nev]The thought of doing a re-install is a bit daunting so I will persevere and think of other tricks.[/quote] Shouldn't be. unlike Vista and XP, Windows 7 updates will download all the drivers you need, except maybe you sound card driver MIGHT be worth the effort running a decent virus scan on the system? Said this before, but download malwarebytes antimalware, and do a scan using that. it's free, and pretty much the best stand alone AV scanner about. Seeing as HDD's are more then just a little cheap, (hell, 2tb @ sub $100 is crazy), i'd buy a 500gb or 1tb Samsung 7200.12 and install on that, remembering to pull out you're HDD for later use Reinstall, update, runn all your tests, and if it acts up again, it's hardware, not software. If it's stable, copy all the data off the HDD you pull out before.

Win7 Windows Installer failing

Thu, 27 Jan 2011 12:36:09 GMT

Also try running System File Checker to use that above, run - sfc /scannow if you get an odd permissions error - click start, and type in the search CMD then right click cmd.exe @ the to pof the search, and clikck ran as administrator. hit yes to what ever it askes, and in the command console, type the above. Then see if you can run windows updates, (the error you're getting sometimes breaks that), and if not, delete the update cache, (if you google, you should find the instructions) Should work once windows completes updates

data share

Mon, 07 Feb 2011 20:46:09 GMT

it's very hard to get a XP machine to see an Win 7 share, but win 7 will see a XP share without any issue. Win 7 to see XP - on the XP machine, Right click on the folder you want to share, click properties, click share, click on the Just share this folder option, and you windows 7 comp should see that shared folder. XP to see Win 7 - First, you must have a Username and Password setup. If you dont, and your computer just loads to the desktop, you'll never get it to work. Soo, set up a user that you can use, complete with a password on the Win 7 machine - Click on the Networking Icon in your tray, and click on Open Network and Shareing Center Click on Change Advanced Sharing settings Pretty much make sure you turn Everything on. Including password protected sharing. On the XP machine - You should now see the Shared folder. Try and open it up, and it should ask you for a username and password. Enter the login details as per the windows 7 user that you set up, and you should be able to access the shared folder. i haven't tried this on a Homegroup link system, but i'm not sure it will work. My laptop i had running Vista had issues connecting to my file share on the odd occarion

Turn Off Windows "Peek"

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 09:43:45 GMT

it's a group policy thing. hell, it amazes me how many ppl DONT look on google before asking on forums "how do i do something" Did ya google it? google "turn off taskbar preview windows 7" got the instructions on the first hit

Turn Off Windows "Peek"

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 10:39:58 GMT

it's ok, it's not an old and forgetful thing... EVERYONE in my family think, "Hey, i'll call ss-rotel, (not real name), and he'll tell me what to do!" should change my name by d-poll to Google...

Win7 and Microsoft Security Essentials

Sun, 20 Mar 2011 17:56:42 GMT

never had issues with MSE. Does the system run windows updates without issues? I'd treat this like an issue with windows update. refresh the update cache, during which you'll end up restarting the cryptography service, which might be the main issue... hard to say. The other option is use different AV software i guess :)

Win7 Crashing...A Fix

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 16:19:44 GMT

[quote=Peter try hard]And if you have updgraded an old XP machien to Win 7, the BSOD may well be a result of too much memory. The XP machine at work was running all of 1.5gb of memory. Dropping the memory back to 1gb fixed the problem.[/quote] it is me? or is that the craziest thing you've ever heard. 1st - You can't "upgrade" to XP to win7. it's a clean install or nothing, (runing the setup disk, were it moves your old instal into a windows.old is still a clean install). 2nd - As win7 needs a bit more resources, (read memory), to run, i'm guessing the machine you were running, had a 1gb stick in the first slot, and a 512mb stick in the second, and near the end of that 512 stick was a bad memory block. so using that XP machine, would never actually try and access the bad block, were win7 would. Que BSOD. bet if you still had the XP install, and ran that 512 in slot one, or on it's own it'd BSOD. Also, you really shouldn't mix memory types, sizes and/or speeds. This may increase the likelyhood of an unstable system.

Win7 Crashing...A Fix

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 16:29:05 GMT

oh, and the Stop code is different to the error code you stated. At the bottom of the BSOD, there's a bunch numbers, looking something like 0x00000fd(0x987452, 0x092388239, blah blah blah) the most important one is the fist one. EG 0x00000fd, Now, the extra 000's aren't that important, so the shorthand would be 0xfd. BTW, the numbers in the brakets usually refer to memory pages were the fault occured, and usually useless information. usually, not always. usually if you google that first stop error, you'll get something back that will give you a fair idea as to what the problem is, and someone's how to fix it. if you're lucky, you'll get that stop error trapped in the event log. it'll be under BUGCHECK, and it'll be in the main discription.

Win7 Crashing...A Fix

Tue, 19 Apr 2011 21:28:09 GMT

that's fair, but it wasn't directed specifically to you :) i don't know about the shutdown @ start of install, but i've seen system having trouble coming out of, or going into sleep properly. Maybe you've worked out a solution for me next time i come across this issue :)

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:26:40 GMT

reg the "my mouse stil glows after i turn off my computer" some boards will send power to some or all USB ports to charge devices, (MP3 players, fones), and can be turned off in the bios. Also, 2 questions GK - 1) how old is the machine? 2) is it completely random? or is the hang/shut down something the happens after about the same amount of time? if the machine's a bit "old" then while re-setting the ram, get a soft eraser and clean the gold contacts of the ram and Video cards. there might be a little bit of oxidation on the contacts due to age might also be heat related, especially if it "fails" after it's been on for a while. Check that there's airflow in the case, that all the fans are spinning freely, and there's not dust glogging the flow, check th e HSF for obsruction, and if needed give it a clean. While you've got the HSF off , clean and re-apply the Thermal paste is a good idea. if still no joy, i recommend that you run memtest on the system, and check your memory. If there's a bad page near the end of the last stick, it wont show as an error until windows tries to use it. It should Bluescreen if there's a page fault, but not all the time. Best way to do that id via the Ultimate Boot CD. It is a great free tool

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Fri, 06 May 2011 13:51:56 GMT

just before or just after that entry, there should be an error in the system log that is call BUGCHECK The info you need's in there. if it's not there, then i dont know... maybe your motherboard's detecting a problem, and shutting down/restarting the system. some boards have anti surge, might be heat protection, could be anything, without that bugcheck entry

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Sat, 07 May 2011 13:31:57 GMT

ok, if you google ultimate boot cd you'll find the download. it's popular, so it should be the first hit what Pete was saying is true, basically, your computer's set to restart if there's an system shutdown error. to stop it restarting automatically, (and hopefully trapping the BUGCHECK error), right click on computer, click properties, advanced system settings, setting on startup and recovery, and un-tick the automatically restart box. i would remove CA security, and Advanced System Care Pro, (haven't seen anything good from the former, and never even heard of the later), and run malwarebytes anti-malware to check for virii. run a mem check, (memtest 86), and see if there's an issue there. you have 2 choices here... When i'm building a machine, if time permits, i let it do 2x passes. if no error, 99.5% chance system is fine. that said, some issues will only manifest 1 in 10-20 passes. this usually means this is a memory timing or setup error. some new(ish) motherboards don't read the SPD chip on memory properly, and set the timings too tight. USUALLY it's as simple as adding a little voltage, or changing the CAS to +1 whatever it's set to. USUALLY a memory error will leave a bugcheck relating to a page fault. it's hard man, without seeing the machine. if all this happened after updating a driver, did you think to do a system restore from before update? would have been the first thing i would have done...

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Sun, 08 May 2011 12:02:20 GMT

[quote=GKPort]Advanced System Care Pro, I'm amazed that someone who is obviously heavily involved with computers has not heard of it. Always rates highly in the AV program reviews[/quote] again, never heard of it... i've come accross come pretty nasty viral infections, and it's never popped up travels The issue is alot of ppl install all this software to "fix" issues on their computers, but dont install the last thing they tried. all this software ends up conflicting with each other, creating more issues to deal with. But anyway... ok, just googled it, it's registry repair software, that's something i'd do manually. the registry's too important in my mind to leave to 3rd party software to "fix". But you're right, it does rate highly. [quote=GKPort]What the event log is showing is me hitting the reset button. I reckon the system is still running OK its only the cursor (mouse) and keyboard that have stopped operating and there have been a couple of occasions when I could still use the arrow keys to move around.[/quote] if that is the case, then next time, hit the on/off button, and if the machine suts down normaly, then the machine's itself is fine, and you're right. therortically, you should be able to get the mouse to work again, if you un-plug it, then plug it back in. The mouse isn't blutooth or wireless is it?

ISO going pacman on my files

Thu, 19 May 2011 18:25:35 GMT

sounds like your HDD's failing. i would pull the drive out, put in an AIR TIGHT ZIP lock bag, and suck out as much air as you can, and place it in a Freezer. buy new HDD, install windows. pull old drive out of the freezer after atleast 24hours, and copy as much off it as you can, before it warms up. IF you can, leave in the ziplock bag, and feed the cables inside HOPEFULLY the files wont be corrupted. the longer the drive is in production, (installed and running in your computer), the more damage you will do. Freezing the drive will increase the tollerences between the head, and the platter, and in the bearings in the motor, and armature. hopefully the corruptions are due the the platter not spinning fast enough, or something like that. the freeze will get that up to speed for a short while. [b][i]DOING THIS WILL EVENTUALLY DESTROY THE DRIVE.[/i][/b]

VAIO bios password

Thu, 02 Jun 2011 21:50:43 GMT

i have, (well, i think it's in a box somewere), a toshi lappy that the client set and forgot the password, and worst still, set it to ask for p/w before it'll boot. it's in little bits in said box, and i/we tried for days to hack it... to no avail. good luck my friend

ASUS eee & linux/xp

Fri, 27 May 2011 14:43:15 GMT

have you googled it? i know i say that alot... but... The HARDEST thing to do is get the XP installer onto a USB device, (if you dont have a USB CD-ROM) to do the install, then deleting the old Linux partition. i THINK you need to use BARTpe to destroy the partition, and there's a bios setting that needs to be changed.... PERSONALLY, i was given an EEEPC for the same reason. had linux, didn't like it, wanted windows, couldn't do it, here, i dont want it sort of thing. All i needed it to do was play DIVX's off my server while i'm in bed, and can't sleep, and I spent day's working out how to do it, (install XP). THEN I stumbled onto easy peasy linux, and a how to install XBMC on ubuntu, (which is what easy peasy is based on) It installed all the drivers, and i did VERY little setup. The only down side is it's a 3.5gb install, (after XBMC is installed and updated), and on a 4gb drive, doesn't leave room to do anything else. BUT it works a treat, and it's ALMOST fast enough to stream 720p content. THEN I found "air video" app for the iphone/ipad. much better, and will on the fly convert ANYTHING the computer u're streaming from can play. will start playing a 1080p MKV inside of 5secs running an old AM2 quad core.

VAIO bios password

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 21:22:27 GMT

I think you'l find that this is a little different in Laptops. The password is there to stop ppl stealing the laptop, or @ least getting into it if found or stolen. if it was as easy as removing the batterys, then it's not much of a security feature. The lappy i was talking about above requires a special dongle that resets the password, that is not available to the gen. public, and you need to prove to the service center that it's your before they will look @ if, it the will look @ it @ all. Again, good luck my freind. Seriously, Laptop's are cheap, go buy a new one, or check ebay for a motherboard for the chassis you have.

VAIO bios password

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 22:02:26 GMT

... wow, That's technical. i dont think even I would attempt that ... it'll be surface mounted, it's a mini laptop after all, so will require you to desolder it.

migrating OS to a diff disc device

Sat, 11 Jun 2011 12:24:41 GMT

you should be able to ghost the install from the IDE to the mirror array. Norton Ghost would be my pick, but it's not free. there are ghosting progams on the Ultimate Boot CD, but they will be slow, and/or only let you ghost to a bigger partition. I know ghost will detect the array too

migrating OS to a diff disc device

Sat, 11 Jun 2011 20:42:02 GMT

ACTUALLY, i dont think there IS an easy way to do this The ISSUE is you've installed the OS onto a single IDE harddrive. During the install, windows installs a driver specifically for the drive during the first part of start up. Seeing as you're trying to get this install to now boot up off a SATA RAID array, (regardless that it's a mirror), i'd guess that it'll BSOD regardless of what you do, as this core driver is wrong. i've been thinking about this on and off most of the arvo, and i can't think of a way of doing this that will work. you CAN speed up the installatoin process by building a USB installer for your copy of windows. i have mine on a ext harddrive, which includes all the software i'd use for a fresh install, (Adobe CS, office, drivers, itunes...), and the installer takes abut 5-10 mins depending on the drive you're installing to

migrating OS to a diff disc device

Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:12:44 GMT

[quote=snugglepoz]one query i have is how do i create a USB/extHD installer[/quote] ok, if you google it, you'll get instructions. i googled - make a usb windows 7 installer - and first hit gave me [url=http://www.intowindows.com/how-to-install-windows-7vista-from-usb-drive-detailed-100-working-guide/]this link[/url] it's pretty easy. i can do it now in my sleep, i've done that soo many time.

migrating OS to a diff disc device

Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:23:11 GMT

again, i'm SURE the issue is the fact that you have installed windows on the IDE drive, and the are trying to run the installation on a SATA RAID Array. the core driver is wrong. What ver of Win 7 are you using? Home premium? or Pro? if you using Ultimate, you're screwed, but if you have HP, get a copy of Pro, and do an upgrade. if you've got pro, if you can get hold of a copy of ulitmate or enterpise, and upgrade. The upgrade will do the equiv. of the old XP Repair install. This will fix your problem. You can't upgrade to the same version of windows. REALLY.. after all this muching around, you would have been better just re-installing on the mirror array, and be done with it. Good luck

Vista won't recognise new Ext HDD

Wed, 22 Jun 2011 14:38:21 GMT

Try a new USB cable. i have had my share of "dead" ext HDD's end up just being a bad USB cable. I know it's new, but it's happened to me, with a new HP Drive. Also, if it's a 2.5inch ext HDD, and an old laptop, it might not be able to supply the current to spin up the drive, and you'll need a USB cable that has 2x USB ends to plug into the computer. You'll know it's a power issue, if when you plug it in, and hold it to your ear, you hear it trying to spin up, (will sound like wwwrrrrRRR Click. wwwrrrrRRR Click). If it's a full sized 3.5 inch drive, make sure you've plug in the power pack, it is required, (3.5inch drives require 12v, USB only supplys 5v)

Vista won't recognise new Ext HDD

Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:25:36 GMT

[quote=GKPort]This was supposed to read "did not have a disc in the box". [/quote] That's cos you dont need one, unless you using win 98 ok. there is 4 wires in a USB cable, 2 for power, 2 for data. if the data pair is damaged, it wont work. BUT it will power up. It's either the cable, or the drive itself. SO... you can try it, or you can take it back, and if THEY try it, and that's all it is, you'll look silly. it's totall up to you, all i can do is give you advice.

Vista won't recognise new Ext HDD

Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:41:51 GMT

[quote=GKPort]Status: Not Initialized Partition Type: Not applicable[/quote] ok, just read that... sounds like they didn't create the partition, and format the drive right click on computer in the start menu, click on manage, then on the left, click on disk manager. It should automatically start the wizard to initialize and format the drive. ... ok, i'm really too tired to REALLY type up a tute, so i Googled it. [url=http://www.brighthub.com/computing/hardware/articles/68631.aspx]Click here![/url] Good luck

Win 7 and Brother HL-5340D printer

Sat, 09 Jul 2011 09:36:55 GMT

you've left out something important. What's the error. "stopping with an error" is like saying ringing a mechanic and asking him why "my car doesn't drive." you could be out of gas, you're in neutral, you engine has exploded. if the printer queue doesn't show the information, it should be in your system logs. start > control panel > administrator tools > event viewer. you should find the error with details in there. if you google this, you'll more then likely find the fix for your problem. Also, does it prints for her without issue, and you can't print to it via the network, and you have to run trouble shooting? or it doesn't print at all until you run trouble shooting. sorry, you comment on 2 laptops, and 1 printer, and personally, i'd have them set up accross the network so you can both print to it. Sorry, that wasn't clear to me from your post.

Win 7 and Brother HL-5340D printer

Mon, 11 Jul 2011 19:22:31 GMT

[quote=Wombatus] the laptops and printer are not networked. I connect my laptop directly via USB when I want to print. My wife does the same when she wants to print[/quote] ZOMG why? you both connect to the same network to surf the net yeah? you can pick up a USB print server, (PC Case Gear has a TPlink USB print server for $45), plug it in, and then you never had to wory about it. i have an old samsung USB only laser, and i have it shared off my fileserver. anyway... i would make sure that you are using the PCL6 driver for this printer on your wifes machine, and not a PS driver, (not sure what PCL stands for, guessing printer command language, were PS stands for postscript, and that's older and "clunkier") Not sure if you've done this, jump no the bother website, and drop the latest PCL6 driver. I know win7 is smart enough to drop printer drivers, but it might have gotten confused. the only other thing you COULD try, and would be share it off your laptop, and get your wifes to connect via the network, after you're removed it for you computer. It'll download the driver from your laptop, just when it asked do you want to use the drive that already exsists, say no.

Windows 7 .Net framework annoying JIT

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 10:50:08 GMT

.NET is required for alot of things, and i definately required for the Catilyst Control Center. have you tried re-installing the ATI/AMD drivers? This is what i would try, in THIS order remove the ATI driver. (either try the uninstall program or google for a removal program). uninstall ALL .net installations google ".NET Network installer" This will give you the complete installation package, and wont need to get online to download stuff after you've started the installation. You are downloading everything, so it wont be a small download. you will need .net 1, 1.1, 2, 3, and i'd download 3.5. Each .net release will have code extentions that other's may not have, and it good to cover you're bases, while you're here anyway. last time i used an AMD/ATI card, i only required up to .net 2 installed, but that may have changed depending on the CCC. once that's been downloaded, and installed, download and install the latest AMD/ATI driver for youre video card. that SHOULD fix your problem. other then that, something might be corrupt in windows itself, (like i said, .net is required for alot of things), and you might have to re-install the system, unfortunately.

Windows 7 .Net framework annoying JIT

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:13:53 GMT

ok, going by what you posted, this is specific to the ATI driver. HAVE you tried re-installing/upgrade that? maybe there's an issue with CCC being corrupt, and it's referencing a .net extention, and as it's currupt, it's throwing th error.

Windows 7 .Net framework annoying JIT

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:19:59 GMT

[i][b]EDIT - check out the post for your upgrade request for BF3[/b][/i] ok looked @ the msdn posts there... did you follow anything i posted? i'm guessing that you have a corrupt WEB installer, and you'll need to find and download the NETWORK installer. The difference being, the WEB installer is small, checks to see what items are installed, and downloads the DLL's accordling, were as the NETWORK installer is one that you can install without access to the WEB, so it has ALL the DLL's required for installation and will more than likely over write and hopefully fix the current .net installation still stand by this is more a symtom of the error, and not the ACTUALY problem, which i recon lies in the Catylist control center installation

Windows 7 .Net framework annoying JIT

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 20:16:36 GMT

google [i][b].net full package[/b][/i], and you should get a page what has a 230+mb .net installer for 3.5 download, and install this first, and see if this fixes your problem. (you dont want the WEB of bootstraper installer, you want the NETWORK, or full package installer.)

Windows 7 .Net framework annoying JIT

Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:36:52 GMT

i'd almost say that you need a re-install of windows. since .net was an "after thought" i guess you could say for XP, it was quite easy to fix, but with vista and win 7 .net is an intrical part of of the OS. i know it's a big job... but... might be a good idea. you've probably had that install on windows for years now, and i bet it'd be running like a dog compared toa fresh install. the install that's on my current laptop is be pushing 2 years now, and its been ghosted over 3 drives so far, and considering it's on a 7200RPM drive, it's slow. really need to splurg on a SSD and do a clean install

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Mon, 22 Aug 2011 13:01:20 GMT

good to hear that it's been sorted. Mind you, 3 months since your last post... AND looking back i told you to run memtest, which should have told you that there was issues with that ram :) for me, memtest is the first easiest check for intermitent faults. BSOD are almost always memory related. either the system memory or the memory on the video card fails. video card's are alot harder to test thou... so i have reproduced the fault, i swap the video card with a spare/test card, and if the fault can't be reproduced, then that's the problem.. there are video card testing programs, but they aren't very acurate.

Power up, Shut Down. Power up, Shut down

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:30:36 GMT

[quote=GKPort]The old sticks, well one of them must have been dodgy from the get go.[/quote] probably a bit hard now, but if you had swapped the sticks around, i bet the problem would have been more promenant. (i can't speel), bet the issue is right @ the end of the 2nd stick, so unless windows actually used that address page, it would work fine. swaping the sticks would bring the fault into the middle of windows usuable range, and break stuff. again, glad it's working.

Wireless Printer

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:03:46 GMT

the BEST way to do this is to manualy set the IP address in the printer, to something that you can remember. so, if you are using 192.168.x.x subnet, and you're router is set to 192.168.x.1 then set the printer to 192.168.x.250. If you are using a Telstra modem/router, then the router will be 10.0.0.138, and set the printer the 10.0.0.139 anyway once that's done, (this is win 7 specific), open devices and printers hit add printer select network printer it'll start searching the network, hit stop, then click on "printer not listed". make sure that "add a printer using TCP/IP or hostname" is selected type in the IP address, making sure that device type is set to autoselect and querey printer is checked hit next, and it SHOULD detect the printer, and either download the drivers of windows update OR ask you for a driver. 2 things- a) if you have to, drop the latedst drivers of the website, and b) if it's a HP, burn it, and buy a something else :)

XP Programs on win7...How?

Sat, 03 Sep 2011 13:44:02 GMT

i found this - [url=http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-windows_programs/gw-basic-for-windows-7/2698190e-c3cf-4e21-b8fd-b480e9db3c9e]Click here[/url] That might shed some light gwbasic is a 16bit program and will not run in a 32 or 64bit environment. i would highly recomend that you troll ebay for a cheap OLD laptop, and put 98SE on it, or something along those lines i didnt' look very into this, (the above with the first responce into googling "gwbasic for win 7) but i'm sure there are some 32 or 64bit basic compilers that will run the programs you've writen? Also, if you're savy enough, maybe re-write them in Java.

XP Programs on win7...How?

Thu, 08 Sep 2011 12:37:54 GMT

yeah, something like that. you can still boot to prompt in win 7... meh, i was just under the impression that win98 was the first 16bit... and XP was the first 32bit OS... can still remember running windows 2000 server as my OS on my P3 500 Overclocked to 900mhz, air cooled, with hacked drivers for sound and graphix, playing games on i think it was my TNT2 card... them was the days... :)

Windows Update Error

Wed, 12 Oct 2011 13:38:35 GMT

you have a corrupt update in your download cache. you need to turn off the update service, remove the cahce folder, (the best way is to juct rename it), and restart the update service. i can't remember the exact commands, but last time i had this issue, it was a google search

Windows 7-Portable Hardrives not visable

Thu, 20 Oct 2011 00:03:47 GMT

[quote=Peter try hard]Generally usb hard drives are assigned f or g as drive letters[/quote] nope. Generally, they are assigned to letters not in use. There are a lot of reasons why this might happen, from a bad USB mass storage driver, to Malware. check here - [url=http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic122125.html]http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic122125.html[/url] which is pretty much of all he steps you'll need to take to fault find your issue. BUT, i'm going to assume that it's malware, and recommend that you run both Combofix and malwarebytes anti-malware on your machine. You'll need to google both, and make sure that you ONLY download combofix from a site called the bleeping computer. run malwarebytes first, and it if WONT install/run, rename the installer to something other that what it is, and it should install. Then run comboxfix then run malwarebytes again. good luck

Windows 7-Portable Hardrives not visable

Thu, 20 Oct 2011 15:18:06 GMT

[quote=Tony Grooby]Changing to the letter (A) works and it will default to that each time it plugged in thereafter. A and B not in-use so its good to external drives. [/quote] UNLESS you have a floppy disk drive in your system. A and B are technically reserved, so i would never use them personally, even if you DONT have a floppy, (which most of you haven't i'm sure) i was just pointing out how wrong peter was, saying that windows uses F and G as drive letters. considering if you have a memory card reader or more than 2 drives in the system already, F and G will be already in use. .... one of my systems will always, for some reason, assign the extrernal HDD that i connect to it, (i have many, but they are never connected @ the same time), i or something. And the system only have 2 HDD's and a burner. anyway, still stand by this is probably Virus related. will be insteresting to see if he figures it out, and what the issue REALLY is

XP Programs on win7...How?

Sat, 03 Sep 2011 23:22:46 GMT

[quote=Nev]Edit: Will Win95 install on a 64bit system? [/quote] umm... yes, it will, but you will not be able to find drivers for new hardware on such an old OS. 98SE would be a better better, buying an old laptop of ebay would be your best bet really. that way you will have less issues getting drivers for the system. i'm not sure how easily it will be to set up 95 or 98 on a VM. never had to.

XP Programs on win7...How?

Tue, 06 Sep 2011 08:03:40 GMT

yep, my bad, i thought win95 was still 16bit. (16bit OS wont install on today's hardware, or so i've read) looked it up, it's the first interation of 32bit OS, (so it'll install fine)

Big probs following partition resize

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 13:26:12 GMT

i think you'll find that you need to get a Vista disk to fix the MBR. or something along those lines... i had a quick google search, and someone basically had the same issue, fixed it by throwing in the Vista disk, and run the repair option. repaired the dual boot. i guess your only issue maybe you probably WONT have a disk, as it's part of the system recover partition, and if you run that, it'll destroy your XP installation. i'm sure someone you know will have a disk, just make sure it's the same tyep, 32bit or 64bit. good luck

Big probs following partition resize

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:38:54 GMT

.... ok, i thikn you're missing the point here. The Master Boot Record, and the Boot Loader is your problem. if you let vista do it's thing, and fix the MBR, it SHOULD repair the boot loader at the same time, and give you the windows XP boot option. THAT said..... why not buy Win7 Pro, and install XP mode?

Big probs following partition resize

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:25:51 GMT

i don't know. like i said in my first post, after a [i]quick [/i]google search.... :) i've never dual booted a system. never seen the need. i'd either HAVE a computer i could run the Second OS on, or at least another HDD that i would swap the boot order on to get into the other OS. also, seeing as i work for a company in the Data recover game, i've seen enough lost data to [i][b]NEVER[/b][/i] Want to change the partiton size of a hdd on the fly, or at least with data on it. *Shudder* the time it takes to TRY And rebuild a broken partition to only find that most of the files are now fragmented beyond s usable state... and the look on a person's face when i give them a bill for 3 days labour, to recover SOME of there data... not fun for either party's let me tell you.

Big probs following partition resize

Fri, 11 Nov 2011 21:38:01 GMT

i RARELY have more than 1 partion on a harddrive. soo... when I run out of space, i buy a new hard drive? my file/media server has almost 10 terabytes of drive space... soo ...

Big probs following partition resize

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 22:17:34 GMT

i've never set up a dual boot system. Never had the need. i usually had enough computers or laptops flooting around to have a spare... :) like i said, from my quick google search, ppl said they did this, and it fix it. I Gues, if it doesn't work, you're no worse off yeah?

Windows 7 error regarding my IP address

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 12:37:23 GMT

ok, so without knowing exctly what subnet you're using, i'm going to assume that you are using a 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0 subnet if you are savy enough, get into your router, and set the IP range in you DHCP to 192.168.0.10 for the start IP and 192.168.0.50 for the end IP. set the router to 192.168.0.1 now, your modems ip address is knda irelevent. if you are pluging your router into the it VIA the wan port it's stting on the other side of the NAT Firewall on the router. If you are running the router like this, but you are using the modem to log into the net for you, there's a good chance that you are running your internet connection "Double NAT'd". This means that all packets are getting checked twice by the firewalls in bother machine, and probably again by windows. this obviously increases latency, and not a grate way to go. make sure you either set the modem to BRIDGE mode, and get the router to do the connection, or turn off the firewall, or drop the ethernet port in the DMZ. if you do so, make sure you change the IP Address of the modem to something like 192.168.0.254, or 192.168.0.2. something outside the IP range you set up above, but something you can remember at a later date. now, you need to set the IP Address of your win7 machine. click on the start bobble, type in the search area, ncpa.cpl and hit enter, it wil load the network connections plugin, right click on the network adaptor that you need to set, and click properties. double click on were it say internet protocol version 4, (TCP/IPv4) click on the "use the following IP address" radio button, and enter in - IP address <- something outside the above IP range, i run 192.168.0.100 subnet mask -255.255.255.0 <- should be the same EVERYWERE default gateway - 192.168.0.1 <- you can put the ip address of the modem if you are running DMZ, but this will bypass the router's firewall. This will give you a slightly less latent, less secure connection. in the DNS settings below, you have 2 choices. you can set the primary DNS to the modem IP Address. This will work with 95% of all routers available to the general public, and leave the secondary black, or you can set them to a public DNS Server IP address. I use the 2x google one's 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 <- set them in that order as primary and secondary IP address's this should fix your problem. also, i'm going to go out on a limb here, and say it's your iphone's that's grabing an IP Address from your router, but it's not ID'd the device properly, and not saving the reservation.

Windows 7 error regarding my IP address

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 14:08:27 GMT

ok, as long as they are on the same subnet. there is alot involved in how this works, BUT - with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0 as long as 1st three numbers in your IP address are the same, they will all talk to each other. everything i said above assumed that you are using a subnet of 255.255.255.0, which will give you 256 possible IP address on your network. if you, like we do @ work, use a subnet mask of 255.255.0.0, you can have 65536 IP addresses but anyway... TECHNICALLY, you can use anything, but 192.168.0.x subnet is the most popular. Hope this helps.

Re install of XP

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 16:54:51 GMT

the entry in the activation database expires, usually between 6-12 months. @ the end of the day, you've paid for the software, and they can't stop you from using it. re-install it, run the activation process, and if it doesn't work on-line, use phone activation. IF you end up talking to someone, (which will be unlikely), the correct answer to the question that is asked is "my hard drive died" hope this helps

Re install of XP

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:19:05 GMT

hehe... ss = Secret Squirrel

OS Imaging Software...what's good?

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 23:10:29 GMT

HDclone and Nortons Ghost, (old ver, like 10 or 11), work a treat. they copy clusters of data, not files, so EVERYTHING is mirrored, and so do most freeware and shareware Disk Cloning Utilities. you will find that unless you PAY for the software, you will - 1) find they are very slow 2) only be able to copy to a drive that is larger, not the same size or smaller. there are a bunch of them on the Ultimate Boot CD, but i've never tried it. i have access to Norton's Ghost 11, which works for me. OH, you MIGHT be able to create a copy of your OS using a RAID controller with a mirrored RAID array, or if your board is new, there will be a cloning tool built in. IF you have never done this before, please DONT ATTEMPT using a mirror RAID array to create a copy. if you screw it up, you'll end up with a pair of blank drives.

OS Imaging Software...what's good?

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 10:47:04 GMT

nortons ghost runs off a floppy, loads a PC-DOS, (or linux, dont remember), and copies the 1 and 0 for drive to drive. HD Clone does the same thing, but it loads a ver of linux. both work, BUT you have to either pay for HDclone for it to be useful, (it's not that expensive), or find a copy of GHOST 11 or 12. the latest ver of ghost i dont think is as good. i'm not sure how easy it is to restore a back up from Acronis True image home edition is, but v9 Enterprise is awesome. Also, have a look @ the Ultimate Boot CD, (google UBCD), and it will have a bunch of freeware ones to try.

Backup issue

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 11:39:01 GMT

i know this sounds silly, but you HAVE tried to plug it into the USB port right? Chances are, you'll be able to reset the u/p with software that will only work via USB.

OS Imaging Software...what's good?

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:43:19 GMT

i would highly recomend you do a fresh installation. Windows 7 is optimized to run SSD, but does such optimization @ install. You can optimize the drive from the cloned image if you like, but honestly, it'll take less time installing from scratch.

Unifentified Network w/ Switch

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 19:58:09 GMT

sounds like a dead switch. maybe a bung cable. maybe a dead network port. it's hard to say. if you plug something into the back of the router, it works right? and when you plug in the switch, only what you plug into the switch doesn't get net? this gear is new enough to auto detect, but you might try a cross over cable betwen the switch and the router. you need to isolate get 2 bits of cable, test via laptop to make sure both are ok, then plug in the switch between the laptop and the router using the 2 good bits of cable if you're still getting error, then it's the switch. replace. that tp link gear's not expensive

Unifentified Network w/ Switch

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:31:34 GMT

if you run IPCONFIG, you'll get an "windows" IP, something like 194.x.x.x were x= random numbers, right? basically, it means that windows has detected a network, but has not been issues an IP address for some reason. like i said before, these things SHOULD be smart enough to detect that you are hooking up 2x network switches, (your wifi router is a modem, firewall, DHCP server, [b]switch[/b], and wifi access point all in one box), and swaps one port over to crossover. 2x network switches can't be pluged into each other directly. if you think about it, and look @ the end of a patch lead, 1 pair of wire is transmiting, and the other is receiving. if you look @ the colours in the plug, and line up the plugs on both ends, they are all the same right? so, if you were transmitting information down the wire from switch A, and @ the other end, switch B, the wire that's transmitting is pluged into a port that is also trying to send information down the same bit of wire, it wont work. a Crossover cable swaps the RX and TX wires around, (crosses them over), so they line up correctly. Back in the old days, you had special uplink ports, or you needed to run crossover cables between switches and hubs to hook up multiple switches, but now adays, these things should autodetect, like i've been saying. since you said you tested the setup with another of the same, it IS possible that both switchs are have decided to crossover each port, negating the crossover. goto your local, and pick up a crossover cable, and plug it between the switch and router, and see if that works. IF not, then i'm guessing that the router and switch is just not compatable, (the posibility of 2x switchs both being faulty is unlikely, but not impossible), and to try a different brand switch. i know it sounds like the strangest thing in the world, i've seen stranger things, trust me.

Unifentified Network w/ Switch

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 21:54:06 GMT

hmm.. well. the point was to fault find a Gigabit switch issue, not the network it's self, and that 524 doesn't have a gigabit switch, (the N network out of the linksys/cisco router is techinally 50% faster than the switch in that router anyway) BUT you have raised a very good question. The reason you get an indentified network reported when pluged into a switch, is it's detecting a network, BUT not getting DHCP information. you said you pluged in the 524, and it worked. without knowing the settings, i'm going to assume factory, and that means, the DHCP server was on. NOW, if you plugged the network out of the linksys, into the 524's WAN port, then you'll have double NAT'd the network, meaning the 2x DHCP servers will co-exist, and work. IF you pluged it into one of the LAN ports, and it worked, that meanes either - a) DHCP isn't setup properly on linksys router, and it's not passing DHCP info to the LAN ports, and the DCHP server in the 524 took over, and the networked worked b) DHCP is switched off on the 524, and you switch is more than likely busted. IF you can i would seriously consider doing a factor reset on the linksys, and jsut enter in enough detail to get it online, (dont set up firewal, dont touch DHCP, dont worry about Wifi security just yet see if it works then setup WPA2 on the wireless, and leave it. MIND you, we haven't heard from u in a few, so maybe you've worked it out :)

RUNNING GWBASIC ON WIN7

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 11:03:45 GMT

ok, i'm under the impression that GWbasic is an 8bit or 16bit program, and WILL NOT RUN (properly) on windows xp throu to win7 regardless of what you do. The 8 bit and 16bit function calls have been removed from the OS or something, or it's the chip's that no longer have 8 or 16 bit and the emulation has been removed fro the OS. i'm sure i've looked into this before. anyway MS has release a ver of Visual basic free, (i'm sure i read it somewere). that might be worth the look ([url=http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/ff384126.aspx]small basic - available here[/url]) you could also try your hand @ web scripting in either Javascript or PHP, (php is my poison), which you will need to make sure the environment is installed. the easiest way to get this working for PHP, (java is more than likely already installed), is something called apache. the easiest way to get this going is something called WAMP server. this includes backends and mySQL and is easy to install. i'm sure this wasn't the answer you were looking for, but i hope this helps. Also, batch files, google "batch file creation tutorial" i'm sure you'll get a hit

Conversion systems 7 and XP

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 11:55:57 GMT

ok, if you have 2 seperate OS's on 2 seperate drives, you can tell the bios which drive to boot off when you start the machine. This is the easiest, easier then dicking around bootloaders

Upgrade to Windows 7 Ultimate

Thu, 22 Mar 2012 16:49:39 GMT

there is a limitation if it's 32bit or 64 bit, you can't upgrade from 32 to 64 bit. this will require a re-install, unfortunately.

Win 7 sleep is driving me nuts

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 18:40:13 GMT

how do you know it's the video card it's not waking? you hear the windows sounds? is the machine "off" with just the power light flashing? or is the system still running? (fans spinning, stuff like that). If it's not off, then there's a chance that is not finishing the sleep process, and "hanging". anyway... windows waking from sleep can be problematic at best. usually, you'll chase your tail trying to work out why, and the best option is just to stop it falling asleep. you're running an SSD, it doesn't take much longer to cold boot, then it does to wake from sleep, right? i'm sure that's not the answer you wanted to hear, but it's a viable option, right?

Win 7 sleep is driving me nuts

Mon, 23 Apr 2012 20:34:21 GMT

ok i actally have to tap the mouse button to get mine to wake.. yeah i go nothing. you could chase your tail with this one for ages, and never get it to work properly... HANG on... Do you hear your HDD's spinning up properly? there is a chance that it's not the Video card @ all, it's windows isn't coming live because the hdd's aren't spinning up properly. I used to have an issue with an overclocked system that when it would crash, the HDD's wouldn't spin up properly for a few minutes. so windows wouldn't start up for that time, (4x raptor 150's in raid stripe). could be that. i'm guessing right about now obviously

Win 7 sleep is driving me nuts

Tue, 01 May 2012 22:35:34 GMT

yeah... i got nothing. Like i said before, sometime windows sleep/hibinate just wont work, or is not compatable with your hardware. it's one of those things it's getting better, and hopefully windows 8 will fix all the issues, but seriously? just turn it off :)

Chrome v IE9 v Firefox

Mon, 25 Jun 2012 21:33:39 GMT

surfin the web's only as secure as your AV software really Personally, i have all 3 installed on my laptop, and i still use IE9 most of the time, with chrome a close second, and Firefox a distant third, (i'd uninstall it if i didn't need it for development, hate it) it'll come down to personal prefernce... though if you just dont wanna use IE, get chrome.

RAID1 and Win7 100Mb System Reserved

Fri, 03 Aug 2012 21:14:55 GMT

how are you trying to create the array? if you are trying to build it via software RAID in windows, i'm pretty sure that you can't software raid the OS drive. That 100mb partition is the BOOT partition, were a core part of windows lives, the bootloader. Question, does your motherboard have RAID capabilities? IF not, i can't see how you're going to create a Mirror array that's going to work for you you are going to need to take an image of your current OS install, (HDClone, or Acronis, or Norton's ghost or something), and create the mirror array in the RAID BIOS, (you might be lucky and be able to create it without losing your info, but if you dont, you should be able to re-image your system. the BEST way will be to do a completely new install. The issues might be that your current install doesn't have a RAID controller driver installed, and it might not boot into windows. if it's an intel system and it's using an ICHxR controller, your windows install should load, detect, and install the controller driver and work. OR it'll blue screen. Then you'll need to re-install good luck

0.0000X0.00000 could not be met

Tue, 07 Aug 2012 17:24:12 GMT

Check the event logs Control panel > Administrative tools > even viewer there should be an error there with detail on what the issue is. Google it, i'm sure someone's seen this before, (i haven't... but hey, that don't say tooo much) best place to start.

W8/W8RT/WP8

Sun, 25 Nov 2012 09:49:35 GMT

hmmm... they'll either have a CISC and RISC version of the same progam, and if you buy one, you should get availablilty or credit towards the other, OR they'll release an emulation patch that will run the RT apps on the full win8 tabs. ... but it's microsoft... CURRENTLY the RT's are kind useless, as there are very little apps available and they only run apps, and in all seriousness, they'll probably leave us in the lerch, and you'll need to be both versions. (if i remember correctly) RISC = Reduced Instruction Set Chip - ARM CISC = Complete or complex instruction set chip - x86/x64 edit - HEheheh post #666! Devil post!

Burning ISOs to an USB stick. What softw

Sun, 25 Nov 2012 10:02:29 GMT

depending on what you're planning the boot of the USB if it's a windows installer iso, you dont need anything special first you need access to the files in the iso. so either mount it with Daemon tools, or extra it with 7ZIP. These are the only software you'll need, and you'll probably have them already. make sure the USB in connected and visiable, (and it's got nothing you want to keep on it) and open command prompt as admin run DISKPART run LIST DISK and figure out which drive is the USB. Say it's disk 3 run SELECT DISK EG select disk 3 CAUTION - the next step will clear all the partition info of the drive. MAKE SURE YOU'VE SELECTED THE RIGHT ONE run CLEAN <- you do this on the main OS drive, bye bye windows! be careful run CREATE PART PRIMARY run SELECT PART 1 run ACTIVATE run ASSIGN run FORMAT FS=FAT32 QUICK when that's finished, you can EXIT. the clean USB Should now open as a windows on the desktop, take not of the drive letter. if not, find it. now, mount the ISO and open the drive letter OR goto the directory you extracted the files into run XCOPY *.* /e/f/s <- say the usb was drive J -> xcopy *.* j: /e/f/x when it's finished, you'll have a bootable windows installer IF it's something else, google it, and it'll give you instructions. For linux, google UNETBOOTIN and you'll get a handy little program that will create the USB pens from downloaded linux ISO's OR give you a list you can download directly. list is usually a little out of date thou.

RAID1 and Win7 100Mb System Reserved

Sun, 25 Nov 2012 10:06:46 GMT

sorry for the late reply... the log in page for the site hasn't worked for me in ages for some reason [quote=Becassine]Win 7 Pro will do RAID1 in the OS.[/quote] correct, but not on the OS drive. option i would take - buy small/cheap SSD, install windows in SSD, all data on MIRROR array. :) what i'm doing with my currect gaming rig, but i'm running hardware STRIPE array. works a treat. it's pretty easy to set what's call a SYMBOLIC LINK between drives, (GOOGLE it), and it's easier again to get your library's onto another drive.

NEW AMD CPU YEAH!

Fri, 30 Nov 2012 21:10:07 GMT

Hey guys.. long time no post. Been nuts busy with my new job, flying all over Australia seting up networks. But yeah, new AMD CHIP hey? FX-8350, 4ghz, 8 cores, and still slower and more expensive and hotter, and more power hungry then the 2550K Good work Thoughts??? :)

Feasibility of Personal Mail Server?

Sun, 09 Dec 2012 23:43:17 GMT

ongoing cost = power, and yearly SSL subscription maybe. Setup cost = computer/server and software software = are you linux proficent? if not, then you want SBS2011 standard. $1000 for software? give or take linux = free. I dont know if you can use activesync type setup with linux... soooo... IF you ahve some spare hardware, AND if you know linux, then go for it. If you have to build a server and buy sbs2011, that's something you'll need to decide...

New build wiring......

Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:05:11 GMT

BTW, everything is keyed to fit only one way. so if it's not an easy fit, (everything should smoothly but snugly fit in), it's likely wrong. RAM and CPU's are the only things that can be easily screwed up really, so just ver extra careful :)

Building A PC for Software Development

Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:12:38 GMT

[quote=rogue316]One issue I can see off hand is your MOBO offers Crossfire support, but no SLI support and your PSU offers SLI support, but no Crossfire support[/quote] ummm... the power connection and requirements are basically the same for XFIRE and SLI... 150w per 6-8pin plug, 2x plugs available per video card, 2 sets minimum. and the SLI on the board thing, only an issue if you plan to code a game that offers SLI/XFIRE support. if you're not coding for games, i wouldn't worry about it. and IF you're only coding for a single thread process, or you compiler doesn't support multi thread processing, you'll find that an i3 with i high clock speed will process faster then an entry level i5. if you're coding for games, or you're software's going to support multi-thread, you'll really want an i7, and decent video card(s) for games. Maybe an nvidia and an AMD so you can swap them over to check your code.

NEW AMD CPU YEAH!

Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:19:05 GMT

indead. back in the P4 days, Intel was dead, and AMD ruled. my XP3200+ engineering sample system is still my favourite overclock system. Sigh. But remember, it took Intel a few years to work from the P4 "presflop" to it's now near perfect chip. Maybe this is what AMD needs to get back into it. One thing thou, i remember a conversation with a rep a few years back, and he pretty much out rightly said, that AMD's putting most of it's R+D into it's video cards, to knock nvidia's hold on market share... I guess nvidia's fighting a little harder then they expected :) still... i dont think i'm going to go out and buy an AMD/ATI Card next...

Building A Budget Gaming PC For A Friend

Wed, 27 Feb 2013 22:36:14 GMT

Dont' these CPU's ship with a cooler? They will be more then capable to cool the CPU, as long as you dont overclock it. but something like a coolermaster evo or something along those lines. And BTW, for a budget gaming rig, the you're better spending more money on the Video card then the CPU. you'd be better of with the FX6100, ($119 from PCCG), saves you $25, spend on a 7850 or if you can afford it a nvidia 660 you're going to struggle getting current games running @ 1080p with that setup, @ any decent detail.

My proposed build - Thoughts please

Fri, 04 May 2012 18:12:41 GMT

no no NO! you need a pair of 6870s!!!!! alll jokes aside, build looks good But i keep saying, the builds i spec up in masterbuilder CAN be found "on the street" for less then listed. you just have to be willing to shop around :) the difference in performance between a a 560ti and a 560 non-ti is alot. if you can afford it, get the ti, yeah?

My proposed build - Thoughts please

Fri, 04 May 2012 18:16:11 GMT

actually, i missed the sound card. Drop that, and get a ti or 570, or a hd6950 if you can find one. that sound card's not much better then the onboard, so i wouldn't bother :) (i have one, and a xonar D2, and a XFi Xtreme music, and i've gone back to using onboard... Hey, wanna buy a DX?)

System Benchmarks

Thu, 10 May 2012 16:42:09 GMT

Hey guys, as i'm sure you've noticed, there's been alot of debate on just what is the best setup, and the best way to test/benchmark SO, i propose that we all test ou machines with a set number benchmarks, and then test FPS on a handful of games we all own I have BF3, but what else can we test? that and SWTOR is all i have installed on my machine, and ihaven't bought anything recently. Needs to post thoughts here, and i will sort out a format for testing and posting. As this is pretty much a :Gamers" systme benchmark - 3dMark vantage and 11, (Free vers only, dont wanna skew results) uniegen Heaven benchamrk and FRAPS for game FPS. Once we decide on the games we can bench, i'll either find or write a path/script for the run. All in favour???

System Benchmarks

Thu, 10 May 2012 16:42:44 GMT

and yes, i know i send i'd send this a few days ago, but my lil one's been sick, and work's been hectic... soz

Where do you buy your parts?

Sun, 27 May 2012 16:24:00 GMT

AHAHAhahahah *snort*

HTPC Hybrid build

Wed, 30 May 2012 19:15:51 GMT

i'd like to know why you are using a sandy bridge chip over an ivy bridge one. and the case will depend on were you plan to put it. my media box lives in an Antec NSK2400 Black, same chassis most of the antec fusion cases it's the exact size as a amp, so sits nice with your TV The only down side with some of these cases is it will only run an mATX motherboard. but that really isnt' that big a deal, if only plan to only run a single video card

System Benchmarks

Wed, 30 May 2012 19:27:20 GMT

ok SO... just so you guys know, i haven't forgoten and i soo plan to get this thread running, BUT New job, and i've been sent all over Aust setting up servers for one, and not had ANY Good net of late to update stuff, AND a personal client needed a server quickly, so i've had to donate parts out of my main rig... anyways BUT i have aquired a G650 and a H55 motherboard, AND a i7 920 and board to suit so i plan to build a couple of overclocked systems when i have some time @ home. not that i have much of that. Also aquired a "glitchy" GTX295 and a 3870x2 plus my pair of GTX465's so it'll be a set of benchmark results. keep you posted.

DICKSMITH MASSIVE sale, April 2

Tue, 03 Apr 2012 09:41:49 GMT

A flop? or a successful viral adds campaign? i wonder how many ppl who wouldn't have ventured into Dicky's did and walked out with something they didn't need, and all they did was feed the rumor mill. Think about it

help troubleshooting desktop pc

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:38:23 GMT

quote - I googled leaky/blown capacitors and got the idea. Maybe 1 looks suspect on the board (_MAYBE_) but i find any suspect on the graphics card well... depending on WERE The cap is on the motherboard that you think maybe suspect, (if you touch the top, it should be flat. if ti's not, it's blown), it may also be part of the problem cap's blow due to age, heat or electrical surge. if it's just one cap, and it's near the CPU, you should be alright. the system should run stable until another cap blows, and usually you'll have a few months. IF it's near the 24pin power or the ram or the PCI slots, then the board's toast, and start thinking about a new system. it IS possible that they error's you getting in the logs are related to an issue with the windows now being corrupt due to the bad video card. over the weekend, i had the same issue, system was failing due to bad ram, BUT the HDD needed repairs due to the crashing. if you have access to another computer, pul the drive, and run chkdsk /r on it, then once you are in windows, sfc /scannow. SERIOUSLY Get the feeling that there's more than one thing wront with that comp... AND it's old, and you need to start thinking about upgrading

Help for a 1300 dollar build......

Sun, 11 Mar 2012 19:42:08 GMT

Seriously thou, November's a hella long way away. SOO MUCH will change between now and then, (or so we hope... nvidia might even release a new video card range), might be prodent to wait for a bit and throw it out there again... say in october? but yeah, the alrounder system will suit you down to the round if you were to build this tomorrow. Most audio software is built to run full multi thread, so the AMD 8 core SHOULD run the software a little faster than an intel i5. if you can afford it, an i7 2600K + a Z68 board to suit would be a bit faster, (will add a few hundred $$$ thou)

Buying Printer Cartridges

Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:02:42 GMT

a) nice add post, please stop, wasting your time and ours :) b) that said, this raises a point. Printer consumables ARE expensive. I just bought an Epson Artisan 730, which has to be one of the best consumer printer/scanners i've come across to date. BUT the cost to run the thing is nuts in my research on the printer, i stumbles on this - a Constant ink delievery system. [url=http://www.rihac.com.au/inklink8482-ciss-units-c-26.html]http://www.rihac.com.au/inklink8482-ciss-units-c-26.html[/url] for pretty much the cost of a set of inks, (all 6 retail in a pack for about $120), you can get a replacement that lets you top up the tanks as needed. Obviously, the downside is the ink tanks are not in the printer anymore, but if you have a place for them, you have the potential to save over $1300 in inks on the first run. and they drop straght in. The canon line you need to pull the chip out of the stock cartridges, but most of these kits are a straight drop in :) On a side note, and one of the reasons's i bought the 730, this company uses these epson printers in house, so they will obviously have the most testing time in them, and this is an australian company, so yeah, win win.

Crossfire vs single upgrade

Thu, 29 Mar 2012 16:50:56 GMT

does it stay jumpy? or does it stall for a touch when you drag it fom one screen to the other? Chances are it's due to it jumping between some hardware inthe video card, to pump out image to the HDMI. i used to run 1 screen on SLI, and had a 3rd card to run my other 2 screens, and draging from on to another used to give the same effect you discribed. i have since removed the 2nd card, and running all 3 screens off the sli setup, and it's better, but still noticable. i dont think there's a fix for this... it's just the nature of the beast.

Crossfire vs single upgrade

Fri, 30 Mar 2012 10:35:56 GMT

intermittant faults are the hardest to work out. BUT i recon if it jitters, and you pause it for a second, the start up again, it'll work fine. Also, maybe a different player? i use Media player classic HD that ships with the Klite encoder packs. deffinately less drama then say windows media player You could try VLC too

DICKSMITH MASSIVE sale, April 2

Fri, 30 Mar 2012 22:15:36 GMT

SUPPOSEDLY, yesterday it was leaked that Dicksmith will be liquating 7 million worth of gaming hardware and software as on april 2 [url=http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2012/03/dick-smith-massive-monday-game-sale-leaked-clearing-out-the-warehouse/]Click here for the Gizmodo article[/url] Not sure exactly how acurate this information is, but if giz think's it's worth publishing, it must hold some merrit. Xbox360 slim 250 consoles $100 DSi for $20 360 250gb HDD upgrade kits for $50 and that's just the small amount of stuff on the list that leaked. there's a link on the above page somewhere. going to check the online store first thing monday and see what's available there, as the sales includes online. (no i dont work for Dicky smith. but these prices, if they ARE real, i'd feel bad if i didn't pass the word, and someone that frequents this site missed out)

DICKSMITH MASSIVE sale, April 2

Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:56:16 GMT

yeah. i USUALLY dont take much from the rumor mill, but Gizmodo's a pretty reputable source. I Guess we'll see if it's true or jsut a pr stunt on monday :)

DICKSMITH MASSIVE sale, April 2

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 15:03:16 GMT

WEEELLLLL... the Dicky smith site's been down all day as far as i can see. "Due to heavy traffic" Good work!

Please help!

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 11:59:09 GMT

[quote=Ally]ive decided to go with a pc thats got pretty much all the same feauters except it has a lower end[/quote] why is your heart set on an i7? most games are only single process, so paying for the extra cores is a waste while playing games. anyway...if it was me and i HAD to get one for Harvey's get this - http://www.harveynorman.com.au/asus-essentio-cm6730-desktop-tower-1.html and this - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1179&products_id=18197 and if you need to get a bigger PSU - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_354&products_id=17374 and get a mate that's semi compute savy to install it for you, (or get online and look up a tutorial and do it yourself. it's REALLY not that hard. just remember to uninstall the nvidia driver before you remove the 520 card.)

Build me a Laptop/Notebook/Netbook

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 12:39:35 GMT

rah... stupid site... just finished writing a novel for you, and it's being "moderated" so something in it broke the post. hopefully the site upgrade's not too far away :) to cut a long story short - the GPU/Video chip is now on the Intel Core i "Sandybridge" CPU has been optimized for Video playback and conversion. Getting anything "Faster" will only impact gaming and/or 3D rendering, so i'm guessing nothing that you plan to do. going by that Pioneer link, get an i5, 8gb memory, 256gb SSD, (unless this is just going to sit on your desk, then grab the 1tbdrive, will explain later), and win7pro 64bit, leaveing the rest the same. should come to sub $1400 with the SSD, cheaper with the tb HDD. CPU differences - i3 Dual core Hyper threading, (HT), no Turbo boost. Base level CPU, fast enought for most, and cheap. i5 Dual core HT, (or 4core non-HT) with turbo boost. best value for money/performance i7 quad core HT, with turbo boost. best performance Hyper threading - a process were the CPU can run 2x threads/process's at once on the same core, effectively doubling the available CPU's, but effectlive 1/2ing the speed of each CPU. Turboboost - if 1 core's not in use, the CPU Will shut it down, and overclock the CPU that's in use. most programs are still single thread, so doing this increases the speed of that program. SSD - Solid state drive, if you are planning to take this laptop with you everywere, then an SSD is a good idea. you wont break if you bump it, as ther'es no moving parts. also means it's faster, (substantially so), and supposed to get you better battery life, but this is rarely the case. Screen/display - the stock display res for a 15inch wide is 1366x768, (pretty much 720p). 17inch wides will run 1920x1080, (1080p), or anything between the above res and 1680x1050, depending on how cheap the system is. you can get high res 15inch screens, but they are usually hard to get, and expensive. [quote=tallin]Don't be so quick to tell me anything would be better than this one I am using now - A well maintained system lasts years as I have proven with it. There is nothing like a good maintenance program to keep a computer running fast and free[/quote] hey, hang on a second. I was talking hardware, and were i agree that an optmized installation of the OS is the best way to get the most of your hardware, there's only so much you can do with it. Otherwise, you'd have no issues playing video right? Honestly, my ipad2 would be faster then i'm assuming your current laptop is. so yes, anything you buy, off the shelf of otherwise, would be a marked [i][b]hardware [/b][/i]improvment over what you are currently running. ANYthing on the market today, even those little $400 Netbooks should be able to handle 720p playback without issue. Buying somethign off the shelf will give you the best value for money, and at the end of the day, there's nothing hardware wise you wont be getting any differently from getting it build from scatch. Only the software installed, and you sound like the kinda guy that can fix that anyway. IF you want something that's easy to work on, easy to fix, and that will last for years, i would highly recomend the IBM lenovo T range. I have a t61 that is pushing 4yrs old, (hell, i think closer to 5 now), and it looks and works well. a T410 runs pretty much the same chassis as my t61, (screen and keyboard are interchangable) parts are easy enought to get and mine ran a 3yr warrenty. it WAS A $3500 laptop in the day, but most good ones were. In this day and age, laptop prices are a cut throat business, so there's alot of range. I hope the above helps

Build me a Laptop/Notebook/Netbook

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 11:41:07 GMT

[quote=tallin]By the way I am a gal, not a guy as you assumed.[/quote] Well... dont i feel stupid. USUALLY i can pick that by the style of writing, typically there's a style that can be placed as female or male, but i missed that one. I beg your forgivenes :) [quote=tallin]. My 7 year old PC went to God last March due to a fault in the Mother board which could not be corrected due to the age of the system.[/quote] WOW... you really hang on to hardware... it's sooo cheap and sooo fast these days... i personally try and upgrade between 6-12 months. MIND you, i have soo many in-laws that love my gear, i can usually on sell it so my upgrades aren't costing me much. [quote=tallin] most from Youtube are fine, but when reading the daily newspaper some of the videos offered don't load at all[/quote] Welll.... most of these videos are FLASH based, and adobe's been working on some tricky code, but bascially it means that you're PC needs to be kinda recent to run some of the SWF players, (after having to build some tricky code.... rah) THAT and Youtube's servers are horrible ... we have 100mb connection at work, and they still play terrible. anyway. oh yeah... from my dealings with pioneer, they seem a little over priced. [quote=tallin] am a Malware/Sypware freak who is so manic about maintenance that I wonder how some other forum members on the net don't get into more trouble than they already do[/quote] i get them out of trouble for a living, (Well it's one of the many things i do anyway), and swear by malwarebytes anti-malware and a program called combofix. out of all my systems @ home, my file server has TSR AV, and so does my wife's laptop, but everything else, nada. i've been doing it soo long that it usually only takes me 20mins to remove a virus after the fact, and in the case that it's something i haven't come across before, i have streamlined my win7 install, and can have a machine back online in about 25. in my eyes, running a TSR AV when you dont need it chews up processing time, slowing your system. So, since i have the faith that i can remove it if i get infected, meh. Also pays to be careful on the net travels... but yeah. :) [quote=tallin]I already have an external HDD with Acronis backup weekly.[/quote] Really? i thought you'd run acronis incremental backups daily. once setup, they only take a few minutes. Also something to think aobut if you are so inclinded is MS Homeserver. lat time i looked you can pick it up for ~$150, and it will run on very limited hardware, (1ghz P3 stuff). it will do running backups of any windows device that's on the network, and quite useful if you have some spare old hardware floating around. They only thing is it wont live in a domain environment, so i dont use it personally. [quote=tallin]who are Moderators and who is the Administrator etc. I feel without that info for folk to respect I myself feel I am talking to a ghost somewhat.[/quote] BAsically... the APC staff is god, and there are a few of us that help out on the forums on a regular basis. This may all change when the new site's live, but that wont be for a few months yet. i know the editor keeps a gen. eye on it all, so i'm sure all you suggestions have come under advisement.

Build me a Laptop/Notebook/Netbook

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 20:59:36 GMT

[quote=tallin]Why for goodness sake would I feel stupid?[/quote] i have no idea why you feel stupid... i made the mistake *grin* [quote=tallin]combofix should only be used by Malware/spyware accredited fighters...I guess you are one of them, where did you do your training?[/quote] Google. ahahaha. been doing virii removal for years... the only virus i've had real issue with was the conflicker virus a few yrs ago, you know the april fool virus that was on the news? it's harmless, unless it's in an active directory environment, then its breaks EVERYTHING. and horrible to remove.

Did i buy good?

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:06:55 GMT

ACtually Seasonic's a pretty good brand, (and i'm pretty sure that most of the low/mid range Corsair PSU's are actualy Seasonics), and i'm sure it will run the system, but rogue's right, it is a little under powered for my liking. would have run a 700 at least. BUT if it's being built, they'll contact u if it's underpwered, (basically, it wont post or will appear unstable). MAYBE it's worth calling up and talking about upgrading. will save you $$$ in the long run

What are Your Gaming Utensils ??

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 14:22:05 GMT

Hey rogue Sorry to hear about your cat, (was really hard not to type P**** there... ), and my condolances to all friends and family. but it is [i]good to hear from you on this fur-um again.[/i] hehehe... sorry

Where to buy Software

Fri, 24 Feb 2012 16:44:53 GMT

The problem is, software is kinda price protected, and they have specific SKU's dependant on licencing aggrements. WHICH basically means unless you are REALLY lucky and find it onsale, it's going to be the same price everywere. like i said above, dependant on licencing aggrement. there are a few different ways to look at this, (education, non-for-profit, student pricing), but @ the end of the day, there are only 2 versions, Buisness and non-business edditions. Since a Business edition will be used by you to make money, (in either the creation of interlectual property, or the day-to-day running of a business), they are going to charge you for the priviledge, and why the normal version of most good software is expensive. Non-business editions are much cheaper, but the aggreement is, you can't make money using the software. if they catch you, they can re-coup on potential revenue. If you're wondering how they will catch you, i'm pretty sure that, eg office, the software tag's the file with what ver it's greated with, and if the track it back to you, it gives the means to audit you. Sorry, off tangent. anyway, if you ARE looking for Student pricing, if you google what you are after, and look for the "academic edition" there are heaps of places that will sell them to you, once you prove that you are indead a student or work for an institute that requires the software for whatever reason.

Where to buy Software

Mon, 27 Feb 2012 11:13:50 GMT

i dontknow... i'd probably say the USA, as our dollar's strong, or something english speaking that uses EURO's, (again, fairly strong) [quote=Graeme C]I should have purchased this last year while I was still studying.[/quote] Ahh... but you fall into the licencing issue, were you'll have a acedemic ver of the software that you can't use to make money without fear of someone sueing you. It's almost no different then you having a priated copy of software. i can't think of a place specifically... like i said, you will find that a majority of this stuff is price protected. MAYBE keep an eye out for a end-of-lease or closing down sale for harvey's or soemthing in you local area. i kick myself now, but had i the $$$ i would have gone to the HN end of lease sale @ indro in brisbane last week. last time i did that i managed to get my laptop, (Envy 14 beats ed), for $1100, (down from $2400, RRP was likw $2700 or something) AND they put it on 12months interest free for me.

Where to buy Software

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:21:49 GMT

ture dat Hey, WOW's in recevership... maybe they'll have it cheap ...

Where do you buy your parts?

Mon, 05 Mar 2012 11:35:00 GMT

touche I buy my gear from Gamedude. because i'm lazy, and i am friends with the owner, (personally, not professionally. he cop's flack from me whenever i get a chance), and my office is like 5 doors down... sooo :) they are cheap(ish), longer have a credit card surcharge, (Umart does... ), were offering free post over so much as well, and the tech guy knows what he's doing, (any bad decisions are made by the owner, and they are only doing what they've been told). anyway oh, and thekoolroom.com and PCCG for odd ball and watercooling stuff

Buy and MSI Tablet cheap

Mon, 05 Mar 2012 13:47:47 GMT

found this - [url=http://www.bigw.com.au/electronics/computers-office/ipad-tablets/tablet-pcs/bpnBIGW_0000000298592/]MSI 7inch Tablet sub-$125.[/url] Andriod 2.3 Check the link, i'm about to order one, sale ends on the 11th march 2012 (saves my Ipad from my 2yr old) oh yeah.. they have the 10inch[url=http://www.bigw.com.au/electronics/computers-office/ipad-tablets/tablet-pcs/bpnBIGW_0000000298593/msi-windpad-enjoy-tablet-10-quot] ver. here [/url] sub $175

sub $1200 Gaming rig, (+ cost of HDD)

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 00:43:20 GMT

Sooo... the forum's here's been more than a little quiet... sooo lets see if i can shake things up a little yeah? sooo... Sis-in-law's b/f after him seeing my sexy W/C setup, and playing a little BF3, went out and bought said game to play himself. only downside is his current machine is s/775 something, 2gb ram, GT240, AND winxp. SOOO no BF3 for him, (he didnt' ask me if he should get the game, just get a txt saying he needs new comp to play it...) i spec'd him up a 2500K system (cos he wanted my machine basically), but told him to buy a cheap video card to tie him over until march, or just wait till easter for them new video cards to come out. anyway... i am supposed to be coding, (and have drunk nearly 1L of V in the hope of being awake to write this code), but i can't consentrate. Body's awake, brain is not. i've come up with the below. I want you to tell me which one would be the better system (i already know which one would be, but i wanna see what you have to say). Prices are all from the same place, (PCCG), but are pretty much irrelevant. [b]System 1 - Intel [/b](system should, in below spec, OC to 4ghz easy) 1 intel 2500K 229 229 1 Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Motherboard 165 165 2 Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 4GB 25 50 1 Cooler Master Silencio 99 99 1 Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST31000524AS 105 105 1 Cooler Master GX 750w 115 115 1 LG Super-Multi GH24NS70 20 20 1 Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked Edition 269 269 1 Thermalright True Spirit CPU Cooler 39 39 1 Seagate 500gb HDD 79 79 [b]Total 1170[/b] [b]System 2 - AMD [/b](system SHOULD, (going by forum posts), OC to 4.5ghz) 1 AMD FX6100 175 175 1 ASUS M5A99X EVO Motherboard 159 159 2 Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 4GB 25 50 1 Cooler Master Silencio 99 99 1 Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST31000524AS 105 105 1 Cooler Master GX 750w 115 115 1 LG Super-Multi GH24NS70 20 20 1 Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked Edition 269 269 1 Seagate 500gb HDD 79 79 [b]Total 1170[/b] As you can see, they are both worth the same amount. the memory would be the limiting OC factor, BUT you'd just run some really low timings and up some voltage. So, which would be better. Note, for just over $1000 you can get a hex core, water cooled machine, (were the only thing i've just realised i DIDN'T quote is a HDD, DAMN IT.) + whatever HDD you wanna use...

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 00:44:01 GMT

Sooo... the forum's here's been more than a little quiet... sooo lets see if i can shake things up a little yeah? sooo... Sis-in-law's b/f after him seeing my sexy W/C setup, and playing a little BF3, went out and bought said game to play himself. only downside is his current machine is s/775 something, 2gb ram, GT240, AND winxp. SOOO no BF3 for him, (he didnt' ask me if he should get the game, just get a txt saying he needs new comp to play it...) i spec'd him up a 2500K system (cos he wanted my machine basically), but told him to buy a cheap video card to tie him over until march, or just wait till easter for them new video cards to come out. anyway... i am supposed to be coding, (and have drunk nearly 1L of V in the hope of being awake to write this code), but i can't consentrate. Body's awake, brain is not. i've come up with the below. I want you to tell me which one would be the better system (i already know which one would be, but i wanna see what you have to say). Prices are all from the same place, (PCCG), but are pretty much irrelevant. [b]System 1 - Intel [/b](system should, in below spec, OC to 4ghz easy) 1 intel 2500K 229 229 1 Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Motherboard 165 165 [b]2[/b] Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 [b]4GB[/b] 25 50 1 Cooler Master Silencio 99 99 1 Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST31000524AS 105 105 1 Cooler Master GX 750w 115 115 1 LG Super-Multi GH24NS70 20 20 1 Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked Edition 269 269 1 Thermalright True Spirit CPU Cooler 39 39 [b]Total 1091[/b] [b]System 2 - AMD [/b](system SHOULD, (going by forum posts), OC to 4.5ghz) 1 AMD FX6100 175 175 1 ASUS M5A99X EVO Motherboard 159 159 [b]2[/b] Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 [b]4GB[/b] 25 50 1 Cooler Master Silencio 99 99 1 Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST31000524AS 105 105 1 Cooler Master GX 750w 115 115 1 LG Super-Multi GH24NS70 20 20 1 Gigabyte Radeon HD6950 1GB Overclocked Edition 269 269 1 Corsair Hydro Series H60 CPU Cooler 99 99 [b]Total 1091[/b] As you can see, they are both worth the same amount. the memory would be the limiting OC factor, BUT you'd just run some really low timings and up some voltage. So, which would be better. Note, for just over $1000 you can get a hex core, water cooled machine,

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 19:13:11 GMT

your right, i swear i looked.... SOOO i got it right the first time (fix it, so if you dont understand, it cos i made a mistake, and i fixed that issue, so stop thinking so hard and yeah) After i posted that, i didnt mockups for a website, sat and watched a few episodes of SW: Clone wars, (catching up slowly), then i THINK i made myself goto bed @ about 1:45am, @ about 2 Jackson woke me wanting to watch a movie on "his" ipad. little bugger

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Sat, 28 Jan 2012 19:23:42 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]Sapphire 6950 2g 308 PSU - Seventeam 650 49[/quote] Would the PSU run that Video card??? i'm dobious. My pick's the 2500K. i mean, from the reports ive read, even @ 4.5ghz, the 6100 would strugle to keep up with the i5 @ stock speeds. let alone @ 4.0ghz I thought about spec'n with a SSD, BUT i'm not sure if he's going to wanna keep his existing system complete, or pull it apart. if so, i'll ditch the optical drive, and run SSD, and use his existing 500 for storage. ... STILL not convinced with Asrock gear... but that's just me. OH and HANG ON fella's. READ THE ABOVE BUILDS PROPERLY. there are 2x 4gb Cosair sticks in that build. i know it's only 1333, but @ $25 for a 4gb stick....

Building new gaming rig. Setup all good?

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:41:29 GMT

OK, for starters, if you buy these parts from amazon, and get them from the US, you will not get any warrenty, so if you do get a part that is Faulty, good luck with that. Go back, pick a reputable retailer near your location, and try again. (that parts list you have above looks fine, but parts available in the US aren't always the same as parts available in OZ)

Building new gaming rig. Setup all good?

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:31:08 GMT

fair enough. well.. the one thing you want to try and get as local as you can is the case. They are in big boxes, so postal company will change you by Volume, (Cubic area), not the actual weight, so it will be the biggest postage expence. IF you can use a case you already have, do so :) I've found the postage for Melbourne to Brisbane from PCCG to be resonable, single box of stuff was about $15, arrived air freight 1-2 days after payment confirmation. their site will work out freight for you on ordering on the site, but before you make a payment, so you'll get an idea. hope this helps

Building new gaming rig. Setup all good?

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 23:28:34 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]PS: Get an SSD in the build if you can its definitely worth it.[/quote] Considering you can get a 60gb SSD for about the same price as a 1tb HDD now adays, (since the price of HDD's are offically POOH ATM), yes, yes you could. And if this system is JUST a gaming rig, you'd be able to install windows 7, and maybe SWTOR, and ... well.. not much else. (actually, i lie, SWTOR requires something like 40gb, so it probably wont fit after you've installed and updated win7) [quote=Chris.Lampard]... had my whole build shipped from PCCG including 3 24" screens[/quote] Which screens? i now run 3x 23inch LG IPS235's, and as screens go, that are awesome, (the panels are, the base that it ships with on the other hand... all 3 panels lean slightly to the left)

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 13:51:04 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]btw did the budget get dropped from 1200 to 1100?[/quote] YEAH... if you read the comment from Chris, he pointed out that i actually had 2x HDD's, saving me about $80. it was late, and i was running on caffine. personally i have a 60gd Agy3 running OS and with BF3 installed, and i've redirected all my personal folders and program files onto my 2x 500gb raid stripe array. [quote=John in Brisbane]Re - intel vs AMD - again, yep. Sadly. Lots of lurve for the AMD of old but it's got to be intel at the moment.[/quote] i'm not PRO amd or PRO intel.. i'm PRO the fastest for the money spent. If and when AMD release a fast CPU, i'll be the first to try it. that siad, i was looking at a forum post were i guy LN2 cooled a 8150 @ 8ghz... how real this is i don't know, or how stable, or how useful. [quote=John in Brisbane]Yeah I tell ppl to keep their old rig largely intact as I'm always banging on about having a lounge room PC.[/quote] hahaha... i have a server, media box, 3 laptops, my gaming rig, 2 xbox 360's, (with 2 in parts), and proably enough parts to build 3 other computers. :) (and i've sold like 3 complete systems over the last few months too out of what i had lying around ... managed to get $2700 for a QX9650 system *grin*)

can't decide on GPU

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 13:53:28 GMT

REAlly? [url=http://www.tomshardware.com]tomshardware.com [/url] GPU charts. without looking i'd say the 6850 would be the faster card.

can't decide on GPU

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:26:42 GMT

going to go out ona limb here and say about $150? is this an upgrade or are you trying to find the last part of the puzzle for a system build? If it's a builld, can you post us the list of parts? there might be something in there we can chnge so you can afford a 560TI or a 6950, which are substantially faster cards.

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 09:05:10 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]$2700 for THAT? Maybe if it came with an autocad licence lol.[/quote] no... it came with a full network setup, and me setting up parralells on the MAC's they were talked into getting by some retard.. They wanted fast, reliable, and quiet. I did build them a beast of a machine... :) They can run word like the nothing else, they love it :) was thinking of getting one to upgrade my laptop, but i'd need a 240, but i can't afford $400+ for a drive for my lappy... with everything thing i do with this thing, i'm going to need to space

can't decide on GPU

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 17:51:28 GMT

yah, either the 560ti, or a 6950, both inside youre budget, both about the same performance. actually... searching... hey! Tomshardware have just release a 2012 graphic card charts, and if you go here, [url=http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2012-vga-gpgpu/13-Battlefield-3-DirectX-11-B-Performance,2968.html](click me)[/url], They have posted BF3 benchmarks soo, as per that chart, the 6950 is nearly 10 frames per second faster than a 560ti, (you wont get a 448core 560 in australia. they are a limited US only run, and are basically rebadged 570's) get the 6950

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:57:51 GMT

[quote=MitchLaughton] personally would go for System 2. i think AMD is boss. with the graphics card being AMD as-well, it will help with speed due to the better communication between it and the AMD CPU, rather than the Intel CPU.[/quote] really? you think that? ok, every benchmark i've read shows the AMD 8 core 8150 CPU has the same performance than the cheaper intel 2500K, pretty much across the board. the one or two benchmarks that are built to run multi thread, AMD is faster than the intel and the intel is faster on a few. but, basically, the 2500K is cheaper, so better value. I've heard that the AMD basically said that they is putting all their resources into their Video cards, cos they just can't keep up with intel in the higher end of the CPU feild. I think that's starting to really show. I will grant you that the graphix core in the AMD APU, (FM1 chips) is better than that of a intel GPu in teh sandybridge chipset, but an i3 is still faster than the top end FM1 chip. [quote=MitchLaughton]Also, if you're looking to upgrade your cpu for more performance, with AMD all you have to do is swap the CPU if they're from the same line [/quote] so, you can't do that with intel? pretty sure you can. just because AMD have stuck with AM3 socket a little longer than intel has with their last, doesn't make intel bad. infact, that's proably what's holding back the performance of their current chips. [quote=MitchLaughton]With the corsair ram, i used to have some, i didn't find it particularly reliable. With my current supplier, they have the Team brand, i think its excellent[/quote] you know, the only ram i have really had issues with has been g-skill. never had a real issue with corsair, (stick dieing after 4yrs of use isn't an issue), and the only reason i used other ram over gskill has been due to supply issues. then i'd proably use Kingston. I have used a little TEAM ram, found them very restrictive when overclocking. [quote=MitchLaughton]and you shouldn't need to reinstall the operating system[/quote] no, you wont need to install the OS. the only reason you'd need to install your OS when changing parts is when you can't get the same motherboard chipset, and even then, as long as you stay inside the chipset family, you'll probably find it'll load windows without issue. you WILL need to re-activate thou, if you're using the OEM ver

Building new gaming rig. Setup all good?

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 15:57:09 GMT

[quote=Im Not Liam]. If I get the AZZA PSAZ-850B14 Dynamo 850W Power Supply will it work with an AMD Radeon 7950?[/quote] on paper, it looks like it will, but would i buy one? no. i would by a corsair TX850w before i buy something with a brand name i've never heard of... [quote=Im Not Liam]will this 7950 rock up as much performance as the 6970 I chose?[/quote] the short answer is YES, the 7950 is the better card, the long answer is that depends on what you doing, cos in the real world the difference depends on the game you're trying to play. as per here - [url=http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/01/30/amd_radeon_hd_7950_video_card_review/8]click me [/url] there's between 5-15 FPS, (guestimating 10-35%) depending on the benchmark. You know, Google is a great place to find this info... i just googles 7950 vs 6970 and it was like the 3rd or 4th hit [quote=Im Not Liam]It seems to me buying in america is the cheapest option.[/quote] That's fine, but remember, if [i]you want warranty on a part, you will have to post it to the suppiler in the US AND pay for postage back again[/i]. [b]AND freight WILL KILL YOU[/b]. i doubt anyone will post over to you USPS, and [b]UPS or DHL will charge you if $400-$600 in freight inc customs and duty[/b]. Having imported parts for my Jazz that aren't available anywere else, i know how the whole postage thing from the USA works.

sub $1100 Gaming rig

Sun, 05 Feb 2012 21:33:36 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]$400 is more than mine is worth[/quote] my lappy's like 4 months old... HP Envy 14 Beats ed. the stock 750gb drive is slow slow... managed to pick one up when one of them clive someone's closed down, for $1100 down from like $2500. but i need new tyres, brakes, exhaust needs fixing, i need to do the spark plugs, oil'l need doing again in a few... rah... at the end of the day, something's only worth what someone's willing to pay for it. if someone's willing to pay lots... :P OCed, i was getting more FPS out of my QX9650 and striker 2 board with my 2x gtx465's than i am with my 2500K, (not by much... but)... really need better video cards :)

can't decide on GPU

Sun, 05 Feb 2012 22:39:54 GMT

a little off topic, but i splurged and bouth a corsair M60 mouse, (to replace the my g9x), going to take a little getting used to, it's lighter and a touch smaller than i'm used to, but it's definately better than the logitech Squezed off a few rounds of BF3 this arvo, and managed to, on metro, pull a quad kill triple suppression assist with a single RPG. i think i scored like 5000xp in ribbons in that round. once i tweek the sensitivity a little and get used to it, i recon i'd rate this mouse pretty highly. it's deffinately well made, the buttons have a good feel, and it's fast, (both on the mat and in sensitivity, 5700dpi). i set it to 4500dpi, and 1/2'd the mouse sensitivity in game, over the G9X were it felt sloppy @ 5600dpi, and stock ingame mouse sens. and all for like $70

What are Your Gaming Utensils ??

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:04:29 GMT

mouse: Corsair M60 Keyboard: Logitech G11, (it still works, and the key's aren't worn away. Haraah!) mat: Razer Destructor. mice rotting on my desk - 2x Razer cooperhead, (left mouse buttons double click when you click once... useless for wow.) 1x Razer Lachesis, (v1 mouse, and it randomly stops traking up and down) 1x G9X, (good, but i always found it didn't track quite right) 1x MS Sidewinder, (the single most horrible mouse i've ever purchased. tracks faster over the x-axis than the y-axis, and you can't fix that in the drivers.) i have a couple of Razer Diamondbacks at work that are still good, has to be the best mouse ever. OH, and i run a Logitech Anywere MX mouse, which for a wifi laptop mouse, i'd almost say it's a gaming grade mouse. i think the equiv now is LOGITECH M905 DarkField. the M60 would be the perfect mouse if the "Sniper" button was set a touch further back on the mouse, and the back of the mouse was a touch bigger. seriously thinking of getting some HD foam and sticking it on the back of the mouse, only needs to be an extra 3-5mm

Please help!

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 23:49:18 GMT

YEP, you need an i7 and 8gb memory to play minecraft. seriously, over kill, but yes it will do everything on your list

Please help!

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 23:52:32 GMT

[url=http://www.harveynorman.com.au/hp-pavilion-h8-1120a-desktop.html]http://www.harveynorman.com.au/hp-pavilion-h8-1120a-desktop.html[/url] This would do That sucks... they give away Solo beats headphones on these things, and the stiff me on my Envy14... rah

can't decide on GPU

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 00:28:01 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]I just use cheap mice ... maybe that's why I suck? Hmmm.[/quote] Yup. *grin* decent mouse and mouse mat makes a difference. One thing you might try is some Xtrac MAD Tape. Teflon frabric backed tape to cover the feet of you mouse to improve movement. bought some, there was enough to mod all my mice. It's like pushing round an air hockey puck it's sooo smooth it just wears out, and relatively quickly. so if you buy some, mod one mouse and keep the rest.

can't decide on GPU

Thu, 09 Feb 2012 16:30:23 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]My mamba + my goliathus is the same sensation and i don't need to tape it :P Just gotta get your combo right [/quote] Yeah, but for how much? that'd be $200 odd for that gear yeah? But for $6, (plus postage), and you can uprate your $25 MS intelli mouse to something 1/2 worth while, and grab the ROCCAT SENSE ADRENALIN and the mad tape, ($23 and $6 respectively, plus $15 overnite) from thekoolroom... would be my budget "upgrade" [quote=john in brisbane]Hell I'm still impressed with optical mice! No more scraping that strange crud off mouse balls! [/quote] ZOMG, how old are you? Mind you, i rememebr the old hollywell mice that ran like a pair of joysticks on the bottom, (one for X one for Y), and realied on friction to make it work...

can't decide on GPU

Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:29:51 GMT

hey, i aggree with you Chriss, going from a MS inteli V3 mouse to my razer Diamond back, back in the day, doubled my BF2 scores, then add a Razor (white), pro mouse mat, and it was even better. you remember the ones that were alloy, coated, and had speed and control surfaces? BUT it was aimed @ john... i mean, you and i both know that the control hardware makes as much if not more of a difference to you scores as does a top notch video card or insane screens... but to ask John to, at a leap of faith, fork out $100+ on a better mouse and mouse mat setup, were to get a feeling of just how different a this gear is, you buy some EEL's tape for $10... why not? The only reason i now about this stuff and can comment is i bought some to resurect my fav laptop wireless mouse, (logitech NX80). the teflon feet fell off, and this was the easiest thing i could find to get it going again, (even thou i had since bought the Anywere NX Darkfield) The only thing that's come close in smoothness is this new Corsair mouse i bought, (the G9X never felt as good, and all my razer mice are very used). Seriously, this M60 mouse i would class as a budget gaming periferal, and it's top notch. It's funny... as a gamer, i wouldn't think twice @ spending $60 on a mouse, or $30 on a mouse mat, but the average punter'd be like, What? oh yeah, and reg the seitek RAT gear. They are the funkiest looking mice ever, but once you've set them up they are the most comfortable mice, (bought one for my sister)... But they break. her's was sent away for warrenty like start of december, due to it randomly stop responding. and i mean, you have to uninstall the USB driver, (not the mouse, the USB) to make it respond again, stop responding... during testing, it lasted 2 hours on my laptop, and about 10 on my 2500K system (gigebyte Z68), before it died. we JUST got it back.

Please help!

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 16:55:00 GMT

that HP looks a little over priced, (read, ZOMG!) . The other one, @ more then $1000 less would be about the same performance in games. Building PC's easy. There's only a handful of parts to a computer CPU Motherboard videocard memory harddrive/ Case/powersupply Optical/dvd drive and the best thing, 90% of the parts are key'd to only fit one way, but even so, most hobbiest computer stores will put together your the parts you for about $100. there should be enough forum posts here to help with part selection.

Build me a Laptop/Notebook/Netbook

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 17:55:43 GMT

i honestly can't think of any company that will "Custom build" you a laptop. there just isn't any money in it. you could try Dell, Lenovo, HP websites, but you'll only get options of upgrade the CPU and memory, and harddrives, stuff like that. ANYthing you buy, be it Havey's, JB hifi WOW, will be substantial improvment over the laptop you're currently runnng. hell, you're mobile probably has more processing power than your 6yr old lappy :) everything you are asking for, an i3 will do the job. you dont need anything special to surf the web, open emails, and watching video's the sandy bridge chips are made to decode video [quote=tallin] I don't want all the mess an off the shelf Laptop gives me so please don't sent me to Harvey Norman or similar - Just not interested in those Laptops and PC's.[/quote] not sure what you mean by that. regardless of what laptop you end up with, you will end up with a laptop with all sorts of things installed on it. a fresh ins tall cleans that up, thou my HP wasn't overloaded with stuff, Dell's got a special on their XPS range, check out their site. like 30% off the 17inch range or something

Build me a Laptop/Notebook/Netbook

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 11:46:48 GMT

[quote=tallin]Can you explain the above quote again as I don't understand it at all.[/quote] ok, the new Intel processors have the GPU as part of the chip, and it's fast enough to decode 1080p blueray content, which is basically the only thing you have issue with on your current computer, correct? Video cards, or GPU's or whatever, in this day and age should all be fast enough to play bluray content, but the HD3000 has been developed to encode/decode faster so converting the content from one to another is faster. Paying more for a video card, (Nvidia or AMD/ATI cards), will only effect performance in games, which you said you dont do, so it's a moot point. everything else that goes into the laptop is irrelevent. you basically want the most you can afford. but anyway break down as follows - [quote=tallin]Just some suggestions on 1. Processor 2. Display 3. Graphics 4. Screen 5. Memory 6. Hard drive.[/quote] 1 - Sandy bridge CORE i processor. the more you pay the faster the processor. u can get an i5 or i7 chip, giving you more cores to work with, (i3 - 2cores + Hypertheading, i5 - 4cores, or 2 cores with HT + Turboboost, i7 - 4cores with HT +Turboboost). IF you plan to do lots @ the same time, (decode movies, download stuff render video surf the web all @ th same time), budget for an i7 CPU 2. display/screen. in a 15.6wide screen you will find it hard to find anything with a better in resolution than 1366x768, (which is basically 720p). 17inch wides will give you full 1080p. If you want something outside this norm, it usually very expensive. 3. on CPU, explained abouve 5. memory - As much as you can afford. the type and speed is erelevent, as you wont be overclocking the CPU, and they only run DDR3 now anyway. 6. HDD - IF this is going to live on your desk, just get a big one. IF you plan to take it everywere, (or you just want it to be fast), then you want an SSD, and again, the biggest you can afford. nothing smaller than a 120gb. win 7 + office blows out to nearlt 50gb now a days. SSD - Solid state - no moving parts, wont break if you bump it. HT/Hyper threading - process were the CPU will process 2x thread, (process's), at the same time on 1 core, effectively doubling the processors on the chip. Trade of is it 1/2's the speed of the chip while it's running 2x threads, so the performance increase is usually not calculatable. some programes are optimized for multi-thread, and will run a touch faster with HT turned on, but if you run more physical cores, then it'll run faster again [quote=tallin]Don't be so quick to tell me anything would be better than this one I am using now [/quote] HANG on. for someone that claims to no nothing about hardware, you're quick to that conclusion. i was talking hardware, and ANYTHING you buy today is going to be physcially faster. Sure you can optimize software to complement the hardware you're running, but if the hardware is already old and slow, then there's only so much you can do with it. that's why you're asking for advice. you laptop's now too old and slow to play video properly. anyway, dont really wanna hold your hand here, but going by the pioneer site you sent us - choose i5 CPU, 8gb memory, 256gb SSD, upgrade to windows pro 64bit, and leave the rest, system = less than $1400. that siad, i'm currently running a HP Envy14 Beats ed, that i picked up for $1100, with basically the above, but with an i7cpu, and a 750gb hdd, (which is about $150-200 cheaper than the SSD) off the shelf. I do understand were you are coming from, but you will find better value for money buying one "off the shelf" IF you want something that'll last you forever with a GREAT warrenty, with parts that can be easily fitted, (unlike most laptops were actually fixing them is a nightmare), get a lenovo Thinkpad. My old lappy is a T61, which is 4yrs old, still looks and works great. (i use it now for test benching and tuning my car), and came with a 3yr warrenty which IBM/Lenovo just sent me parts after i explained i'm a computer tech for a listed company. no other company would do that. [url=http://shopap.lenovo.com/au/en/products/laptops/thinkpad/t-series/t420/index.html]have a look here[/url] You can customize the laptop to your own spec, which is the same as getting a company like pioneer to "build" you one. In perspective thou, my t61 was $3500 when i bought it orginially. and would be the equiv of the T410s with all the options ticked

help troubleshooting desktop pc

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 11:43:38 GMT

i'd say you have a leaky or blown cap somewere in your system. and i'm guessing it's on you video card. if it was anywere else, you'd probably only get these symptoms if you unpluged the system from the wall. if you dont know much about electronix, a CAPistor hold charge like a batery, amoung other things, and they charge and discharge quickly. they are also effected by heat. blown or leak caps are pretty easy to spot, as the tops bulge. google for a pic if you are unsure At a guess, this explains the multiple boots before windows loads. have you tried starting up the system without the video card? (since your system has onboard video, it's an esay test.)

WD External HD crash

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 22:55:52 GMT

ok, but how old is the drive? In all honestly, the onus is on you to make sure your data is secure. that means, all CRITICAL data, (Stuff you can't live without), is in more than one location. seriously, all it will take for a drive to fail is a knock in the wrong place when it's spinning (read = i dont see how this is WD's fault) i mean, right now, i'm trying to get into an Iomega ext drive, running a Hitachi tb drive, that was basically doing exactly what you discribed. i've pull the drive out, and my computer's been sitting here trying to access the partition information for the last 30 mins... it clunked and ticked, then stopped, gave me a list of directories then nothing. tis my sister in laws, and i'm only trying to be a good bro, but i'm going to hate to tell her that if she REALLY wants the data, i'm going to have to send it away. in fact... the motor just died... damn it. i know what the problem is, she dropped it, but i had to try... This is why i personally have a 8tb file server, an external HDD, AND a local copy of my work on my laptop. not to mention the data i have living @ the file server @ work. personally, i have NEVER been subject to a failed drive, except pushing 10 yrs ago, when my IBM "Deathstar" died on me while i was copying all my data to my new drive, cos i knew it was going to fail. Tell tails ARE The clunks and ticks. if you noticed that 6 months ago, you should have replaced the drive then, backing up all your data to the new drive, just in case. Sorry man, but i dont see any joy in your future... but you know, i dont have the device here, and there might be something that i would be looking for that you're not, and it might be a different story...

WD External HD crash

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:15:02 GMT

ok, are you worried about the warranty? if the answers yes, it's broken, and you have lost all your data. sorry. If you dont care about the warranty, then you might have your data. inside your external hdd, is an internal Hdd in a caddy. if you're lucky it's just the caddy that's broken, and if you pull the internal hdd and plug it into your computer, like a normal internal hdd, it should work. if the drive failed, and not the caddy, then that depends were the failure is. there's a control circuit, a motor assembly and the plater. if the plater is damaged, then you have lost your data. if it's the other 2 you will be able to access data, eventually. recovering data off a mechanical failure of the drive itself is very expensive. depending on the damage and age of the dive = $1000-$2000 and 2 weeks. if it's on a drive that runs a RAID array, (like some of the older WD World books, you can tell by them being very think) triple that cost. you have 2 choices, send it away, get someone to look @ if for you, get them to try and reteive the data for you, and it'll cost you someone between 600 and 2500. or you can pull the hard drive out of the cady, and see if it works on your computer. if so, sweet. if not, then the above may still apply. Good luck. (btw, i work for a company that does data recovery, so....)

Gaming Rig: $1800

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 22:17:48 GMT

it all looks good, either build will do. now, do you plan to overclock it? if no, then a non-k will do, and you dont need the extra cooler. that'll almost pay for the extra SSD drive. and if you car using your old case, you'll have an old DVD drive yeah? that'll save you somemore $$$

intel RST + SRT on RAID 1 -- confusion

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 21:41:45 GMT

it's probably tagged RAID 0 as the controller is writing cluster information to increase speed, and the discription of the other RAID arrays, (there are lots) dont fit. Also, if you set it to maximum performance, it kinda fits RAID0 i wouldn't worry about it too much if you have it working, great. I can't see why i wont work in RAID 1, but like i've been saying, the Whitepaper on SRT states it should only be set up with a single drive, pretty much states, not in a RAID Array mine worked even thou it shouldn't have.. .then it failed, and i couldn't reset it. make sure it's not set to maximum performance, cos if it does fail, you might not be able to recover the installation. good luck

intel RST + SRT on RAID 1 -- confusion

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 21:46:07 GMT

remember thou, it'll never be as fast as the SSD, and only on the Second load. if you can, i'd create a usuable partition, leaving some space for operating overhead, then install BF3 on it :) takes ages to load sometimes :)

Asus Sabertooth P67 Mainboard

Thu, 08 Dec 2011 16:04:41 GMT

you have a marvell controller for e-sata or somthing like that, or a SATA3 controller, cos p67's dont have sata3 on the intel controller, (?), and if you dont have anything connected to it.... no drive dectected :) that's all it will be, dont worry about it :) BUT it you'll need to disable to device, and it should be in advanced setting in you bios, and on the were you can set the SATA to RAID, AHCI, or IDE, in there you'll be able to disable/enable the controllers. every bois is different, so i can't say exactly were, just make sure you dont turn off the wrong one :)

Asus Sabertooth P67 Mainboard

Fri, 09 Dec 2011 16:06:45 GMT

ORRR.. you could plug a drive into it :)

current APC mag, jan 2012

Sat, 10 Dec 2011 11:16:25 GMT

Ummm... s/2012 review, page 52, Asus Rampage 4E. Someone printed a pic of a Crosshair. Suprise! i'm just saying :)

What happens if you use a fried motherbo

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 14:39:03 GMT

what makes you think it's fired? plug in PSU, and speaker to see if there's a POST beep. turn it on, (short the pwr on with screwdriver) if there's a CPU error beep, (continous beep, long beeps that dont stop), then add CPU and see if it memory error beeps, (1 long, 2 short usually), then add memory, and see if it posts or you get a Video card erro beep. (1 long 3 short usually), add video, it should post IF at any stage you dont get a POST error beep, then that's were there's damage to the board. if you dont get a memory error beep, it might be as simple as the ram slots need cleaning. Had alot of old board come thro work that had corrosion on the slots... clean and the system will work again

IS THIS OKAY?

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 11:00:14 GMT

that Video card's going to kill you. in all honesty, if this is JUST a gaming rig, spend less on the CPU, and more on the video card. From experience, an i3 2100 is fast enough for a GTX275 or a pair of GTX465's in SLi. what games are you planning to run anyway?

IS THIS OKAY?

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 11:44:12 GMT

most if not all mid-high end video cards have some sort of HDMI, (were it be via a DVI addaptor, a true HDMI port, or mini HDMI), so yes, they will connect up to a HDTV or Home theater system, and again, most if not all, (nvidia 4xx and above and all AMD/ATI cards with HDMI) also have digital audio, so you just plug one cable into your system, and bob's your uncle. BTW, you can't GET a GTX275 anymore, the closest thing would be the card that Chris quoted in AMD/ATI, (no mater what they are now, it's still ATI to me), or a GTX560Ti in nvidia. just make sure when you are buy the gear that you have HDMI natively, to make it easy to connect up. my media/file server/download box runs a GT220, and i get decent 7.1channel sound to my Pioneer 1019 amp, pumping 1080P to my Pana 52" plasma. works a treat.

What do I really need?

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 12:23:46 GMT

ok points to consider [b]motherboard[/b] If you read throu some of the posts in the forum, you will notice some discustion on Power Rails in motherboards and overclocking. The reason there is a huge difference in price between the entry level and higher levels of Z68 boards is due to the number of power rails on these board. the more rails, the more stable to overclock. i ran the Gigabyte ver of the asus board you mention above, and was never able to get more than 4.0g stable wiht a 2500K, even after hours of tweeking, AND $300+ worth of watercooling gear. (heat wasn't ever the problem). Upgraded to the Asus P8Z68-V Pro, , with 16 rails over the standard 4, without trying i get 4.3ghz, (i push the OC "button" in the bios) and for the moment, happy with that. you're spending so much on everything else, yet skimping on the motherboard. personally? Try again. There are lots better boards out there... but i guess they are ALL more expensive. IF you specifically want to OC your CPU, do some research, and find out whats the best for you. i found some of the best overclock boards were the P67 chipset boards, like the p67 Sabertooth. (which is what i WAS looking for but i couldn't find one on the day that WASN'T 2nd hand [b]Video cards[/b] Not completely sure i understand the question - YES there are better cards, infact if you can wait for a few months, (sorry, i can't be more specific ON The time frame, but it's march-ish i've READ), the new AMD and Nvidia cards will be out. BUT you will get what you pay for. 6990's basically the 2 cards in question Xfire'd together on a single card. 2x the speed, (in theory), 2x the price. TECHNICALLY, nvidia's SLi will give you a faster frame rate on a single screen, but if you plan to run "surround" or eye-finity then outside of games, AMD is the way to go. I personally JUST setup "surround" on my pair of GTX465's and span'd accros 3x 1080p screen, BF3 struggles, (but look sooo damn good, even on low-mid detail). But when i say, struggles, i mean, 35-60fps in game over a res that's 5760x1080 running 2x 560ti Gigabyte OC ed cards, (~$280), we managed to sustain 50FPS by turning MESH and AO to low, turning down shaddows and AA and turning off to motion blur. the only thing that MESH Seemed to effect was how good the blood effects and suppression looked ingame. nothing serious. [b]Water cooling[/b] You can't DO any better than the H100 short of custom building it like i did. the H80 is the H70 replacement, and the H60 is better than a H70 anyway. you should still be able to get a 4.5ghz overclock with a H60, infact you'd be able to get that aircooled. There are many BIG heatsinks, like the everthing thermalright and noctua makes is as good @ moving heat as these water coolers, they are just typically noiser. i did what i did to make it dead silent. NOW my video cards in game are too loud, so the plan is once i have the funds to water cool a new set of cards. fun stuff... when i'm finished, i'm going to have spend pushing a K in water cooling gear alone... wife's gunna freak :)

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Sun, 27 Nov 2011 17:40:31 GMT

[quote=marco75]For a crazy moment I considered modding the case:[/quote] hey.... considering most of the heats going to be transfered via water cooler, to outside the case, if you pull one of the 60mm fans off the back, will the water block fit throu the gap? then it'd just be a mater of finding someway of locating the rad and fans outside hey, if you're local to brisbane, (but u'm guessing you're not, mwave's in sydney), i'll swap you my sound deaded Antek NSK 2450 black for the LC17. it runs 120mm fans.

Editing/Gaming PC

Sun, 27 Nov 2011 18:13:48 GMT

it's amazing what u can buy for the money these days... sounds about right, if you're not going to go nuts on the OC, then you wont need to go nuts on the cooler. infact, the HSF pump heat of the cpu into the air in the case, the case then need to pump the hot air out of the case quickly/effeceintly. So a good case with decent fans is almost as important anyway... a coolermaster 212 or TX3 cooler, and some artic cooling MX. Difference between the coolermaster thermal, and the MX4, can be upto 5 degC, and the MX4's not expensive, and from what i've read, takes ages to go off. depending on the grease, it need to be re-applied periodically. ummm... i haven't seen XFX powersupplies, and in my search on the 2 places i would buy stuff, they dont sell them. THEN, i just looked up the main brisbane supplier of XFX, they dont sell the powersupplies, and as i know that particular supplier fairly well, they'll sell anything, until they start getting them back under warranty, and stop selling them. Not a good sign. personally, i like Enermax, seasonic and corsair PSU's, pretty much in that order. Corsairs the easiest to get, everyone sells them. from my research, i'm pretty sure they come out of the seasonic factory. from there, the motherboard is your choice, i have the cheapest z68 board icould get my hands on, in lou of replacing it once i had leak tested my system, and it can get 4.3 out of my 2500K. i thought i'd get more, but anyway. it's either this, or the memory i'm using. I plan to replace with a p67 Sabertooth, IF i can scrape the $$$ before the one they have @ GD sells. i know it sounds funny, but the only thing that the z68 does over the p67 is the SRT and that video virtualization stuff, neither which i use in this system, and that board OC's fairly well, but mostly cos it looks cool :P

Editing/Gaming PC

Sun, 27 Nov 2011 18:50:43 GMT

did a quick search, the p67 sabertooth is faster than some z68's, in stock and overclocked trim, on a 2500K. Bit-tech got 4.9ghz out of it. they ot 5.1 out of the same chip on different boards, but it's still the same, if not a touch quicker than all the other boards they benchmarke recently

Editing/Gaming PC

Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:55:13 GMT

[quote=TecK]Whats thermal grease?[/quote] ok, Thermal grease is the goo between the CPU and the Heatsink, (HSF, were F=Fan), or the grey stuff that's on the bottom of the HSF before you build a machine. because the top of the CPU And the bottom of th HSF isn't perfectly flat, trapping small pocket's of air that will stop heat getting transfered to the HSF, and the grease fills the gaps. this stuff is made out of different things, from just silcon to mixed with silver and gold, and even diamond dust to help transfer heat. so far, for the money, the Artic MX4 is the best, and over the stuff that Coolermaster runs, i've seen it 4-5degC better @ full load times. not bad for a $10 tube of goo anyway... [quote=TecK]What is a p67 vs a z68?[/quote] this is the Core chip type of the motherboard. the Z68 is newer, and supposedly faster, but only in some things, like video decoding, and has a funky thing were you can use a SSD drive to add a cache drive to your normal hdd to speed it up. i want a P67 board cos the one i want will be cheaper than the Z68 equiv, AND it will give me a faster overclock. I'm not using ANY of the above features, so it's a great idea... for ME. i HAVE a Z68 board, and i can't get much of an overclock, or as much as i would like, out of it. 4.3ghz stable, which is what you said you wanted, so it's probably not that big a deal. with a 2500K or 2600K you should be able to get a 4.9-5.1ghz overclock with the right cooling and motherboard/ram. i have over $300 worth of water cooling, and i should be able to get 5ghz easy. but i can't, so i want a new board, (which i'm sure is the problem). i'm not sure if you have noticed, but there is no real way of future proofing your computer, dependant on the motherboard. AMD have made a few attempts, but their top of the woz CPUs can't keep up with the mid level Intel CPUs, or if they can, they struggle. The down side with Intel, is they usually change their CPU sockets when a new chip type comes out. so you need to replace the board. here's the thing, from my years in Computer Parts sales, there are 2 things that you can do with a computer that stress it out. Video editing/rendering and Gaming. Gaming rig isn't so dependant on the CPU, but more on the Video card. The only game i've come across so far, BF3 is the only game that i've seen that push's all 4 core of my 2500K @ the same time. Most only run 1 thread, (CPU), or 2 threads max. Video editing is the opposite, were there is not much video editing software on the market that used a video card to rendering, so the faster the CPU And memory and harddrive access makes a big difference. So, for a gaming machine, frame for frame, if you spent the same money on an i3, with a GTX580, over an i7 with a GTX560ti, (that should end up @ About the same sort of cost), the i3 will be faster in games, were the i7 will be faster in video editing hope this helps?

Editing/Gaming PC

Thu, 01 Dec 2011 02:31:16 GMT

ok, make sure that they sony vegas pro software actually supports excelleration using an ATI card. Adobe software only REALLY supports nvidia cards, and even then, only high end ones. [quote=TecK]I do have a budget, and the nvidea equivalent to the 6950 is like twice the prices[/quote] Actually... frame for frame, forgetting were the model number sits in the grand scheme of things, the 6950 is more like a GTX560 Ti. depending on the benchmark, (tomshardware), they are within 2fps of each other. And about the same price. ~$270 i replaced my board, with an Asus P8Z68-V Pro yesterday, 4.4ghz, by pressing the OC NOW option in the bios. *shrugg* for now, that's enough. will try again later. this room is hot enough as it is for about $1500 ($1565), i'd go this, parts listed from Gamedude computers, only because i used to work there, and remember the code structure. INTEL CORE i7 2700K 3.50Ghz Max Turbo Frequency 3.90Ghz $379.00 ASUS P8Z68-V-PRO-GEN3 PCI-E3.0 $269.00 CORSAIR VENGEANCE (8 Gig) 4gig x 2 DDR3 CMZ8-1600C9 1600mhz Matched Pair 79.00 MSI GTX560Ti OVERCLOCK TWIN FROZERII 1024MB GDDR5 269.00 CORSAIR FORCE GT 60GB SSD SATA3 6Gb/s Read/Write 555/495MB/S 2.5inch 155.00 SeaGate 1TB 7200rpm SATA-3 7200.12 Model: ST31000524AS 125.00 ANTEC THREE HUNDRED HardCore Gaming Case 69.00 CORSAIR HX750W Modular Power Supply 750Watt 195.00 LG 22x DVD+/-R Burner 22.00 Plus shipping. didn't include a CPU cooler, but that is something you wont need to worry about right away.\ Actually, if you run the 2600K, it'll drop the price to $1518. And you SHOULD get all the cables and screws you need, especailly if you are getting an "expensive" motherboard. You might need some SATA data cables, depending on how many HDD's and Optical drives you plan to run...

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Thu, 01 Dec 2011 02:41:12 GMT

[quote=marco75]Curiously, there seem to be two different RAID implementations on the board, Marvell (GSATA3_6, GSATA3_7 connectors) and intel ("XHD", all other SATA connectors). Not sure what difference it makes.[/quote] the Intel "southbridge" can only handle so many sata connections. to increase that number, board builders will add aftermarket controllers. You may find that one of them isn't sata3... there are registry hacks that let you move your profile folder and library folders in win7, so maybe that will do? (for the other thread...) [quote=marco75]ssrotel, do you use your front panel audio jacks? Do they work?[/quote] No, i dont use my front audio, but they ARE pluged in... oh, hang on, i dont have that board anymore... so i can't even test it ... doh! umm... make sure that it's plugged in correctly, and it's enabled correctly in the bios? I run either an Asus Xonar D2, or DX depending on the system. (the D2 sounds a little bit better). i also have a XFI 5.1USB if i want something portable.

SSD - SRT VS RAID -- which is faster?

Thu, 01 Dec 2011 02:51:19 GMT

Option 4) SRT: 1x 500, 1x 64gb partition on the 120SSD SSD: create a 45gb partition, leaving 10% Overhead that these OCZ Sandforce SSDs seem to like to have. HDD: 1x 500 for data/storage The 45gb part you'd use for page file, scratch disks for Adobe, stuff like that. you could also install the programs you want to load SSD speeds, remember SRT is only faster, on the second load. like i've stated before, i've gotten the same sort of performance, (not benchmarked, but perceptual) running a raid stripe of 2x 500gb WD Blues, and readyboost on the SSD. my 2c

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:04:33 GMT

ok... toms hardware did a comparison on 8x, 4x, 2x and 1x pci-e slots, and the difference between 8x pci-e and 4x pci-e was about a frame a second in a GTX580's i can't see it being an issue, and if it is, we're going to be talking a few frames a second over faster equipment.

2011 FTW? or current epic fail?

Tue, 22 Nov 2011 17:37:25 GMT

OOOOKkayyy... So, my boss has had a hardon for the 2011 socket since he found out you can run 64gb of ram, dont ask why, just except that it's something that he needs anyway... noticed that it's been released, he's like LET'S GO!. GD and PCCG has them listed on the sites, but there IS an issue. All the CPU's listed DO NOT ship with Heatsinks. AND of corse, since they have changed the mounting system, (same spacing, BUT screw mount to the baord/socket not a clip into the punch out of the motherboard), there is VERY LITTLE that will fit the socket. PCCG list the H80 and H100 as to fit, so technically so should my RASA cooling block as it uses a very simular mounting system. Also, PCCG lists a Xeon 5000 acrtive cooler, that would fit, i guess... but it's hard to say, right? WTF was intel thinking? shipping CPU less the HSF for new socket that has a different mounting system! kudo's to MSI That's shipping a TT cooler with one of their motherboards. RANT thoughts? anyone?

2011 FTW? or current epic fail?

Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:47:23 GMT

ok, we built this machine, ended up with the MSI board. the FRIO cooler they ship with fouls over 2x the 8 ram slots. if you run low profile sicks you'd be ok, but i haven't seen any fast ones on the market yet. system = MSI X79A-GD65 8D FRIO i7-3930K 16gb Corsair Vengence 1600 ram, (cos of cooler, can't run 32/64, well, you can't run 32gb cheaply) Matrix GTX580 4x 150gb Velcoraptors in RAID stripe, on a HiPoint 2720 card, (because we had it) 3D Mark 11 score, P6500, no overclock. I was looking @ other benchmarks, the average x58 scores are about 4500, with a 6100 score on an overclocked CF system, running a pair of 5970's Does want... :)

2011 FTW? or current epic fail?

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 13:45:11 GMT

a metric but load. (i've wanted to use that in contect for AGES!) umm.. pushing 4K total (the controller and raptors were left over from a server build, so it's difficult to say). $360 for motherboard $680 for chip $140 for ram $670 for video card, (i THINK he's going to buy a second so he can run BF3 over 3 screens) $1500 for raptors and hipoint card, (i think) $145 for fractal case $200 for PSU $3700 odd oh, plus a new mouse keyboard and mat, (which is ALL he come went in to get on the day)

Editing/Gaming PC

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 13:46:26 GMT

prices look correct to me. The stock cooler will give you 4.2-4.5ghz without effort. BUt anything will be better than stock, it depends on you budget. (and if it IS cheap, sub $50, it wont be silent) you overclock will be limited by that motherboard. i'd look @ one fo the EVO sku's of that range. Also, that PSU might be something that might become a limiting factor later on. i'd budget to spend a little more on something alittle better, i'm running a Corsair TX950, and it was only a $30 more or so over the xfx, and i'd say a better brand... Shrug again, personal prefference.

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 22:47:15 GMT

[quote=marco75]That SSD caching not working on RAID 0, is that an issue with this particular model of motherboard, or a limitation of SSD technology[/quote] pretty sure it's a limitation with the this variant of ssd caching i know i've read that it's not recommended that you run SSD caching on any RAID array, and from experience, it's not stable. feel free to give it a go, and prove me wrong, but... :) from what i can gather, since these SSD Caching setups work out what's the most common clusters read on the drives, and caches them to speed up access, and since a RAID 0 setup doesn't read a cluster of conhrent data, the cache gets confused pretty quickly. like i said, mine fell over with in 2 days, so basically 4 hours, and 3 reboots. personally, i'd run a corsair Force 3 120gb, you can find them from about $210, install OS on that, remap your music, docs, videos library folders to the TB RAID array... [quote=marco75] interested in the OCZ Synapse because it only caches the most recently used 60 GB,[/quote] i thnk you'll find that's how the SSD caching works in general, not specifically the Synapse. [quote=marco75]Which mobo would you recommend[/quote] Well.. if you plan to OC the chip, not that one? if you AREN'T, it doesn't mater. my system's a blinder, dont get me wrong, just a little said i couldn't get more out of it after spending sooo much time onthe watercooling :) i dont know man, theres like a 15+ Gigabyte Z68 boards on the market... if you want a cheap OC board, the asrock and MSI boards are getting great number's but they are sometimes a little hit and miss, Asus and Gigabyte still make the best, personally, in that order, but they are more expensive. If you have the ability, get a DFI board, if you can find one. every DFI board i've ever used has been awesome, got great OCnumbers, but they are hard to find in Aust. If you care, Asus have just released their PCI-e V3 boards, taged GEN3 boards... might be worth the look?

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:34:13 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]the backing plate is touching some of that stuff on the underside on the mobo where the cpu mounts ... there didn't seem to be any pressure on it so I took a big breath and clamped it all together lol. I was out of town for about 2 weeks and couldn't wait to try clocking my new baby.[/quote] hey? hmmm... maybe... i've had my 9500 and 7500 for YEARS. maybe they have changed the mount. mine has 4x mini thumb screws.... it's a little bit of a muck around but :) [quote=John in Brisbane]didn't realise you were using a cheap mobo to test the rig[/quote] i DID say it was the same board as the other guys build. there are 3 version of this board, z68m, z68ma, and z68mx. the mx is the one to get. thou if only if you need a mATX board. even the Rampage Gene 4's not the greatest board in the world. again, i was trying to shoe horn all that gear you saw in the pic into a case that is like 10inchs x 6inchs x 5inchs, and fit a GTX275, and a 1200w PSU. .... and i was SOOO Close. i've seen it done but with an ITX board... and a lot of dremel work. i didnt' ave the time of inclination. [quote=John in Brisbane]Sounds like it is about to take off though - now I know the rig runs I need to think about better air cooling or take a big breath and go for water [/quote] ok. REALLY do some research then. most of the sealed kits aren't any better @ cooling then most high end air coolers. just a bit quieter. i knew i had to custom build mine, to have an chance of getting it to fit in my SG03 case. it's not as daunting as you think now a days. Compression fittings are easy to get, and not as expensive as having to use Speedflow stuff like i would have had to the last time. if you dont care what they look like, plain silver ones can be had for about $6. mine are black anodized with bio-hazard symbals etched into and stuff it's not toooo big an issue. once you have the system plumbed up, you plug the pump into a spare PSU, and on the 20-24pin plug on ANY psu if you short out the GREEN wire to any ground, (black wire), you'll turn it psu on, running the pump, without acutally turning on the system. using distilled water, if it does leak, mop up the mess, let what's left dry, and you shouldn't hve done any damage. it's pretty easy with a res, to get all the air out of the system, fill the res, turn it on, add water until the water start pumping back into the res, top it up, let it run for a few minutes, top it up again, rinse and repeat. Air will rise and get trapped in the highest part of the system, which for me was the radiator. after about an hour, i turned of the pump, tip the case so the air would run to the outlet of the rad, then turned on the system again. got rid of a little air. the water level hasn't changed since i set it up 2 weeks ago, so prett confident there's no air in the system [quote=John in Brisbane]Can't argue about the wheels and tires lol I tend to buy the ones that are here for a good time not a long time :-) this set has saved my bacon once and been great for grip and feel lolz[/quote] YEahh... i have a set of bridgeston RE001 adrenalines. they've been good. BUT my jazz that i have highly modifed, (makes 225bhp, 303nm torque, over the standard 100bhp, 120nm) and 1st and 2nd have pretty much destroyed them. and i want bigger... 15's are tooo small :)

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:20:07 GMT

i just went back and had a look @ the cased you linked... you know, that Coolermaster case shares alot with the Fractal Arc Midi i'm running? i REALLY wouldn't be supprised if Fractal and Coolermaster share manufacturing plants... looking @ the 3, get the silverstone. I personally rate silverstone as good as Lian Li as cases go. the fractal doesn't run USB3 BTW, but neither does the silverstone. If you "NEED" USB3, then get the coolermaster. all 3 case will cool well, and be very quiet. the fractal maybe a touch more so, but you can buy sound deadening from Autobarn or northfield car sound, like Dynamat, (the bomb, but $$$), or the option audio dynamat anolgue that's almost as good, but 1/2 the price.

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:02:20 GMT

good work. really good work... :) [quote=Mr Mrrtn]Any suggestions on which GPU to go for? I heard some really good reviews about the Radeon 6850 series. Also, where would be a good place to pick up a second hand GPU? Ebay seems to be selling 2nd hand for same or sometimes even higher price than Umart![/quote] whatever you feel like. personally i'm running a pair of GTX465's in SLi. not the fastest in the world, but i'm getting very playable frame rates in BF3, (honeslty haven't FRAPS'd it... but i've played like 7 hours, and considering i haven't really play'd a FPS online in years, i was doing good... can't blame my hardware... thou i REALLY wanna new mouse...) 6850 should be up there in the same performance... and the Ebay ones... you used to be able to update the bios, and get the equive performance of a 6870, (i think that's right... Chris would know more about that than i do... i'm an nvidia/intel person), but i'm sure that you wont be able to do that with one off the shelf. you HAVE saved alot of money... y not splurge on the Video card???? Get a 6990 or GTX590 :)

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 16:32:17 GMT

OK, i stand corrected. the 6850 is NOTHING like a pair of GTX465's in SLi... 6850 - about 25fps with everything turned on, as per toms hardware. GTX460's in SLI - between 40 and 48 FPS, same benchmarks. you're better off getting a 560Ti, but again, that's up to you. Pick a budget, see what u can find inside that budget, check online for benchmarts, get that fastest one :P also, once you have chosen your card(s), see if ppl are having issues with the setup you plan to run. i didn't do that, and on the specific motherboard i chose for my original i5 570, and running a pair of 5770s in CF, (this system was built on s/1156 release), i would randomly get a gigantic mouse cursor. This was a known fault with my motherboard and 5770's in CF, and basically Gigabyte and ATI were like, sux to by you! sufficed to say, that system didn't last long :P

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 11:39:57 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]yoko s-drives on 15/50s - so that's about 100mm of sidewall but very stiff. Decided against 16s or 17s because of some of the roads I drive on [/quote] yeah... the tires i'm running are great. the Enkei's i'm running light, and looks trick, (goto ozhonda.com and there's few pix), but i want bigger, more for looks than anything else... that and 205/40/17's are damn sight cheaper than the 205/50/15's i want to run. and 17inch mags are geting cheaper... anyway ... the best air cooler i've come accross is the prolimatech supermega. This things just shy of a KG without fans, and on par with most off the shelf coolers. pccg sell em, they are about $90.

laptop recommendations please

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 12:33:34 GMT

[quote=XCR]and my best recomendation for a note book comptuer would Be Acer.[/quote] REally? i see more broken acer, HP and compact machines come throu our tech room than any other manufacturer. ok, this all depends on if you're repairing them out of warranty, or not. Asus used to have 2 yr world wide warranty on all laptops, (netbooks aren't laptos, so are excluded), now it seems that they are 12months on their entry level, (so up to K series), but should still be world wide. The service center in brissy's usually pretty good, as long as it's in warrany, and you're willing to leave it with them. turn around a day or too... the downside with everything these days is the entry level. you can't expect to get the perfect machine for no $$$. i mean, you buy a laptop for $500, and can't expect it to last forever, and be easy to fix once it fails. we are still in a throw away sociaty, and as such, why would a manufactorer keep millions of dollars worth of spare parts world wide, and sell them cheap, when you can inflate the price to the point were it's more cost effective, once out of warranty, to ditch and buy a new one. better sales figures @ the end of the day yeah? In this day and age, all you can do it buy the laptop, with the spec you want, in the budget you want, and pray that if you ARE going to have issues with it, it falls inside the warranty period. Cos if it doesn't, chances are, you going to have to start looking for a new one. that said, personally, i've had a lenovo T61 that is currently a little over 3 yrs old. due to it's class, it shipped with a 3 yr warranty. i had an issue with the keyboard, called lenovo directly, told them the story, they shipped me a replacement keyboard that day, which i received express the next morning. the screen glitched, and it was picked up and replaced, then couriered back to me withing 3 days. obviously, you can't expect that with a sub$1000 laptop, (this was $3.5K new), but if i was to buy the current T420, with all the boxes ticked, it would be a $3.5K lappy, and would have the priority pickup warranty. Also, from having to fix a few of these lappys, the higher end lenovo's have a slightly more modular design, and are quite easy to fix. case-in-point : Probably the most common issue is a broken power socket in the back of the lappy. The socket on most laptops is surface mounted to the PCB, and most breaks are on the PCB it's self, and are not repairable. Lenovo's are a plug in attachment, making for a very easy repair.

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 15:37:15 GMT

ok, i aggree with Tony that you SHOULD spend the extra few $$$ on the i5, but not because of the pontetial bottle kneck between CPU and GPU. the i3 is perfect for a budget gaming rig, as MOST games will only use 1 or 2 cores max. BF3 seems to be the only exception i've come accross soo far, as on my 2500K system, all 4 cores will pip 80-100 % load on the odd occasion. if you only intend to play games, and have nothing running in the back ground, an i3 will be fine. BUT for the $50 for the i5 2400, it's worth it for sure. the biggest thing missing from the i3 is turbo boost.

PSU fan facing up wards

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 15:46:43 GMT

[quote=hidayat.andrew]will facing it 'up' disturb my GPU's (Gigabyte GTX 560ti) air-flow intake[/quote] it shouldn't. Technicallying, a fan sucking air should only [b][i]directly [/i][/b]effect air for a area about the 1/2 the diameter of the fan. 12cm fan = air 6cm above it getting directly effected. in practise, it's less then that. remembering, that this WILL create a low pressure around that area that air will "fall" into, but it will for into the area of GREATEST low pressure. So the air getting pushed into you system by the front fan will "fall" into the area of low pressure, but if your Video card is moving more air, and it should be, most of the clean air will flow into the low pressure that's being created by video card because that pressure is greatest. BASICALLY, it's only going to be a issue if the fan on the PSU is sitting directly above/below the intake for the video card, and that shouldn't be the case in your application. Honeslty, even if the PSU WAS facing down, and sitting on the carpet, the only issue i can see is dust getting in the PUS, not it not cooling enough. air'll flow throu the carpet, and as these things are built to move the air soo slowly, it's not going to be an issue cooling. as long as the HAF case has filtering setup for the PSU that you can clean, then it shouldn't be a problem. i hate PSU's setup the way you have.... ANYTHING could drop in there, create a short, and BEST CASE, blow up your PSU

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:08:15 GMT

[quote=marco75]Regarding RAID, I actually meant RAID 1 (mirror). [/quote] from what i read, you shouldn't use any time of raid array. in setting up the SSD to caching, you're adding to a form of RAID Array. MAYBE it's something to do with the amount of work the RAID controller actually has to do, working out what information it has to send to each drive that breaks it. like i said, it worked for an amount of time, and then one boot, i got an error, and had to destroy the ISR array for it to boot. I didn't lose any data, but it didn't work for me. it cant HURT to try it, but i've found that setting up my SSD with READYBOOST gives me about as much performance boost as i'm going to get out of the old SSD i'm running. it's old, and only rated @ About 110mb per sec, maybe a more, i dont remember. with 8gb of RAM, and a 22gb READYBOOST setup, the second load in BF3 is seconds, not almost a minute for the first load, so it's deffinately working. [quote=marco75]Yes, I would like to OC the i5 2500k. Stock speed is 3.3 GHz right? I would think getting it to 4.3 GHz is quite an achievement![/quote] yes, it's a nice OC, but it doesn't justify the $$$ i've spent on my watercooling system. 2500K With the right cooling should be able to push past 5ghz. iv'e definately got he right cooling. hell... you can OC A 2400 non K to 4.3ghz. the nonK's aren't NOT unlocked, they are just not as unlocked as the K's, which you can theoretically set the multiplier to 57, giving you a CPU that runs @ 5.7ghz. not that that will actually work without LN2 cooling., (LN2 - Liquid Nitrogen) difference between idle and full load is 2degC. my 2x GTX465's make sooo much heat that's it's pushed the internal temps of my system over 20deg. (air temp getting pushed out of the back of these 2x cards is 60-80deg) infact, the last time iused these things in my QX9650 system, they would pip 100degC under full load, overclocked slightly, working flawlessly for hours @ these temps. (sounds insane, but the GTX4xx cards were built to do this.)

Build Feedback Please, little gaming rig

Fri, 18 Nov 2011 18:26:20 GMT

hey, i used a i3 2100 for a time, for other reasons than yours, but i was very supprised with it's performance. go for it, since you're not planing to keep it as a p i've built a machine with a define mini, and they are a really nice case. air flow's good, (system was using a QX9650, which pulls 130w, and runs cool, and quiet. The stock fans moves decent air, is nice a quiet, but there ARE better fans out there. upgrades! the other option too, motherboards aren't that expensive, and you'll be able to re-use the board and i3 ship for something. media box, file server, new computer for an inlaw... :)

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 13:33:40 GMT

ACUTALLY, i found that the standard mount that comes with the 7-9000 Zalman coolers acutally fits the standard 1156 and 1155 holes. Wont fit a 1366, BUT you can get a mounting kit for about $6 or something. i had a 7500 mounted to a 1156 system, and it fitted fine :) your 9000 series zalman should have the same mount and that board, was the 1st z68 mATX board on the market. i'm hoping i'll have a few $$$ from xmas to buy a better board :P but i'll end up spending it on mags/tyres. :P going to try again tonite with the new ram, and see if that was the issue, not the board. Maybe it IS a dud 2500k... if so i'm going to be more that a little upset.

Harvey Norman free Xbox 360!

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 14:38:49 GMT

Soo, anyone that's looking for a lappy, and needs an xbox 360, if you spend more that 700 on an Asus laptop, you'll get free xbox! not that i work for them, but my bro-in-law needed a lappy, and bought a K56 with i7, 4gb ram, 750gb HDD for $1200, and score free xbox. this is obviously ONLY relevent to ppl that need a new lappy, and dont have an xbox. or like me, have 2 already, and want the new model :) you'll probably find it cheaper somewere else... BUT ... :) I think the offer ends sunday...

Keyboard with trackball in the middle?

Sat, 24 Sep 2011 19:49:53 GMT

errr... good luck with that. maybe cherry, maybe kensington... maybe i've never seen anything like that before... :)

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Sun, 02 Oct 2011 21:01:46 GMT

Personally i think the best memory on the market for the money is the Geil Corsa Evolution 8gb packs. 1600mhz ram, 9-9-9-27 which is a little slow BUT... you can run it @ 1866mhz without issue, AND i bought my pack for $55, but the the street price is about $60-65 i'd run a WD blue for the same sort of money, and i like the Bitfenix Shinobi myself... and it's about 1/2 the price. the 690's great dont get me wrong, i have 1 myself... NOW, unless you plan to OC the chip, you can do without the cooler, as you can get an easy 4.1ghz OC with the stock cooler, with @ load temps around the 70degC, which is still OK. i think that'll save you an extra $100 ish? giving you the budget to buy the SSD

best parts for desktop-future proofed

Sun, 02 Oct 2011 21:11:50 GMT

[quote=Jas_74au] I'm unsure of the case,mother board, graphics card and cpu cooler undecided between h100 & h80 cooler.[/quote] well... unless you're going to OC the chip, then there's no need to ge the cooler. stock, the intel cooler does a good job, and is still quiet board's great, case it your call, i like the new corsair cases that are starting to filter throu... and cheaper. that's enought $$$ to get a better video card :) faster video card faster gaming, and if you go the 580, and premier, then it'll decrease the video rending times as well.

$1800 Graphics orientated PC build

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 17:31:49 GMT

ok, i see a fatal flaw in your plan - [quote=DVS Industries]Run XP Professional 32bit,[/quote] [quote=DVS Industries]RAM: 16gig Ripjaws DDR3 2133mhz dual channel $220[/quote] You do realize that a 32bit OS will only see 3.2gb of memory MAX? In all honesty, running windows XP in this day and age is a silly idea. Windows 7 is a really Good OS compared to XP And Vista, and unless you plan to run a webserver or connect to a Domain, you only need Home Premium. You should be able to pick up a copy of win7HP x64 for sub $150 when you buy your parts. I would look @ A 120gb SSD drive for OS, Progams and scratch, and a 3 x 1TB drives in RAID 5 for storage. Also, unless you plan to play games, then 2x 460's is a silly idea. you'll probably need a Quadro or FireGL card for the 3D app's you plan to use, so pick the one you use the most, find out what video card you will need to H/W excellerate it, and get that. If you plan to run adobe software full H/W excellerated, and you want to play games, i'm pretty sure you will need a GTX 480 or GTX 580 or above to make that work. you will need to look up the hardware requirements for the software you want to use, (EG; CS5 premier will not H/W excel unless the card is a GTX580/590/480/295). (pretty sure that's right... i had to look that up a few months ago, but that was pre-CS5.5 and might have changed)

Websites for Buying Computer Hardware

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 17:41:50 GMT

[quote=cdominguez] http://www.seattlecomputerrecycling.net[/quote] Excellent. next time in seattle, i'll know were to get a recycled computer. Thanx bro

$1800 Graphics orientated PC build

Wed, 12 Oct 2011 11:41:04 GMT

i dont think that 200w over what's needed is over kill. Most power supplies run at it's peak effeciently @ about 60-75% load. so to get 90% effceiency on a system that will draw 600w of power, you'd want a 800w PSU. remember - high end CPU will draw 130w, motherboard between 20 and 50w depending on the board, 20w for each HDD, and optical drive, 200-450w depending on the video card... Adds up. Also, something no one else has touched on. NO, XP Will NOT make use of the extra memory. there is some tricky stuff that Server 2003 R2 enterpise ed. does to map the extra, up to 8gb or 16gb i think, but i'm guessing nothing that you can get your hands on One thing, if you get win7 pro 64bit, you can install XP mode, which is a VM install of 32bit windows. 95% of the time will fix the problem

OCZ Vertex/Agility 3 Issue

Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:24:02 GMT

we built 12 machines with agi3's, and out of them all 1 is a problem system. we've replaced the drive 2x times, 3 time we throu a normal HDD @ it, as it was deemed not worth the heartache, as this machine is left on 24/7. meh. it's an office machine. The design machine that we built has a pair in raid stripe, and every now and agian the system losses the raid, reboot, rest the bios boot sequence, no problems... going to email him now and tell him to make sure he shut's down every nite, if he doesn't already. I was reading that the vertex's were just as if not more unstable. i was also talking to one of the tech's in GD about this, and he mentioned that there's an issue with the sandforce controler, akin to the B2 ver of the intel sandybridge MCP. he coudn't tell me if the fix was a firmware update, BUT it doensn't looking firmware has fix the issue. ppl have had success with - 1) leaving 10% drive space unpartitioned for operating overhead 2) turning of trim, (the sandforce controller does that already?) 3) turning off C3-C6 power saving features if you can 4) making sure your system doesn't shut down the SSD, put it to sleep 5) making sure the system is power cycled every 24hours. considering boot times are inside of a 30 sec's usually, i dont see any real need to leave an SSD system on ALL of the time, (kind of a waste really... dont you think?) on the forum post that was more than 200 pages long, ppl were either tweeking, having success and being happy, or tweeking, no success and flaming. the Mod's and tech staff spent most of the post going, "try this and let us know" fun stuff

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:31:41 GMT

umm,, have a look @ the Antec NSK2400 case. it shouldn't be any taller than the GD04/5 and it's i thnk 42cm wide? runs 2x 12cm fans, has HDD and PSU/ODD drive sections to mitigate cooling, and is fairly quiet. i have one for my meida box. it's pretty much the same size as my amp. the only thing, due to the HDD area, the biggest video card you can fit is the same as a 5770. (about 8 inchs.) Technically you can fit a 9inch long card, BUT you'll have minor clearence for cabling. for some reason my case developed a strang resonance, (HDD i'm guess), and i uses some Dynamat sound deading to remove it. wonderful stuff

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:44:09 GMT

[quote=Mr Mrrtn]This model seems to be identical, except for the stealth ODD which looks quite nice. Strangely the GD04 reviews are more negative (noise lvl) than the GD05, any ideas on why this may be[/quote] missed that. maybe the fans they ship with stock, maybe the gear that was in it very hard to comment without reading the article. if they are alloy case's, (which i'm GUESSING they arent), the ally that Silver uses is very thing, (compaired to say Lian Li), and this will give you a resonance if you're not careful. i have a SG03 that I wouldn't call noisy, but it is far from silent. BUT the board i'm using in it has NO Fan control for case fans, AND i'm running a pair of Noctua 12cm case cans @ full speed. on their own they aren't noisy, but they move almost 70CFM each, which is a lot of air to move throu a tiny alloy case. [quote=Mr Mrrtn]and will fit full size PCIe cards?[/quote] size? or height? full LENGTH cards are 12inch long. you'll have fun finding what you want to fit that, inside your budget and size contrastrants.

Intel DG965WH audio - mic & 5.1 speakers

Tue, 25 Oct 2011 23:42:07 GMT

the correct answer is you can't. Technically, XP does NOT support 5.1 channel Digtal Audio via S/PDIF either via coax or optical. infact, WINDOWS in general does not support direct 5.1 audio via S/PDIF, 7, vista or XP. they way you get around it is via a decent sound card, that literally converts the anologue 5.1 chanel audio to digital to send to your amplifier. MOST cheap motherboard do not run a sound card with an A/D converter, or in your case, your sound card does not have the power to convert 5.1channel to S/PDIF, and run a mic/front audio. One driver givses you one option, and the other one gives you another. my Asus P5G31 motherboard will only do stereo optical out, my Striker Formula 2 will do 5.1 optical out, my Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H board only does stereo optical out... i get around this with a Asus Xonar D2 or DX, (i have both), and an XFI extreme music, (co-ax digital connect). I have a Sony K1600 amp running my 5.1 sound, so am pretty much in the same boat as you. Hence my swag of sound cards. i AM a bit of an audiophile, and i can tell you, there is a HUGE difference between the cards. My fav is still the XFI, but i just dont want to use co-ax cable. it will end up in my carPC more than likely :) anyway Xonar D1, (pci), or DX, (pci-e) would be the pick, and go for about $100. (MOST cheap XFI cards DO NOT support more than stereo Optical out, and only support 5.1 over co-ax)

New Computer > Problems Already

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:32:45 GMT

Before you jump in and GUESS What's wrong with your system, the BSOD gives you all the information to tell you what's going on. well.. 99% of the time anyway if you can capture the BSOD, (read it before it goes away, or tell windows NOT to restart after crash), you will find a string of HEX numbers @ the bottom of the BSOD. EG - 0x00004a(0x9387434, 0x80fff08, blah blah) the most important number is the first one - 0x00004a. you can remove the 0 after the x, so the short hand would be 0x4a. if you google that you'll find out what's falling over. i'm GUESSING That since it's falling over after to start bunch of programs, you've got a bad memory modual @ the end of the range. EG you have 4x2gb memory sticks, the last stick has an error, so until windows needs to use 6gb ram, it doesn't have to access the last stick, so machine runs fine until you open a bunch of programs. To test memory, then you can download a program called memtest86. they SHOULD have run that before the system was signed off, and windows installed. if the error you end up getting back is hardware, take it back to the place you had it build, and tell them what you've done, ask them to fix it.

New Computer > Problems Already

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:35:27 GMT

[quote=Tech_Guy11]I have browsed the internet and other forums and some say you should remvoed te hard drive and then re-format and the re-connect the hard drive, while others say you can just treat it normally and just put the windows 7 CD in and re-format with a full erase and install.[/quote] and yes, this is a very good idea, but only because windows has a nasty habbit of writing the boot sector on one harddrive, and installs windows on another. one should ONLY have the HDD or ARRAY that you plan install onto, and once you are dunt, plug in the rest.

MSCONFIG Option in Windows 7

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 17:41:30 GMT

i wouldn't play with that, infact, if you remove that option windows will use ALL of your memory This is an option for you to set windows to ONLY use that much memory, and is in Megabytes. it's old and legacy, and only going to be helpful IF you have a system that's, like i said in your post before, got a bad stick near the end of the range, and you know how far in it is, (7000mb into 8000mb of ram), you can get windows NOT to access that memory page, and it shouldn't fall over since it's a new machine, you REALLY Want them to fix it IF this is the case. without knowing the system @ All, (and considering you NOT Telling us what or how much memory it has, what brand hdd/ssd's, boards.... and you dont know the check error of your BSOD), it's impossible to say.

New Computer > Problems Already

Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:00:58 GMT

did you catch the BSOD stop error? google how to stop your system rebooting after halt, and you'll be able to grab that error. one thing too, do the "Wiggle" test. while running memtest, reach in and wiggle each ram stick. not too hard, but if doing so makes the system glitch, crash, or anything else like that, the rams' not seated properly, and pop it out, and pop them back in again. rinse and repeat. if the second time it doesn't happen, aweseome. if it does, get hold of a soft eraser, pop them out, rub down the contacts CAREFULLY, dust them off, and out them back in. THIS will all hinge on how annoyed the company will be if you crack open the case. if it DOES viod your warrenty, please take it back to them, and ask them to run more tests.

MSCONFIG Option in Windows 7

Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:25:27 GMT

ummm... what SSD you have? OCZ? Read my post about OCZ SSD's. might give you some insight about your random BSOD. Also, we've used sabertooth 1366 boards for database servers @ work, and they can be a little unstable when running drives on the sata 6gb ports. we also found there was NO performance difference, (running RAID 5), using the SATA3 or SATA2 ports. This might help AND yes, i'm telling you to REMOVE THE /MAXMEM entry completely. it's legacy back to windows 2000 days.

MSCONFIG Option in Windows 7

Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:38:19 GMT

ALso, i just went into MSCONFIG in windows 7 Pro, and there's not boot.ini access in the true sense of the word. For me, there's the boot tab, and under that, there's the Advanced Options button. in there you can set the Max memory, but Default it's un-ticked. Which, like i said, makes it use all the available memory. IF Memtest had found errors in the last gig of that memory, then you'd set it to 7000 so windows didn't use the faulty part of the ram, giving you a stabe system, till you decided what you wanted to do MOST BSOD's are memory related. be it faulty memory, a bad call to memory because of a bad driver, or something along these lines, more than 3/4 bsod's that i've had to fault find have been traced back to a memory fault.

New Computer > Problems Already

Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:32:39 GMT

ok, cool One thing... a server that i set up 2 weeks ago, was getting a BSOD, with a memory error, (0x1a), that would make the system crash after being up for about 5 days. i'm pretty sure i traced it back to a driver error, and the only driver that was installed on that machine which was out of the ordinary was the USB3.0 driver. so far no issues after i removed that driver, (they will not be using USB 3, so it doesn't mater) since you're re-installed windows, i would strongly recommend you download from the m/board site all the latest drivers, and not use the one's on the CD

What's Your Computer Case Look Like!

Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:50:51 GMT

My CURRENT main gaming rig looks like this - [url=http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=57]http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=57[/url] and internally it looks like this, (before i fitted my 2x GTX465's, that's an old 8800GTX used for fitting while i leaked tested the water cooling) - [url=http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0006.jpg]http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0006.jpg[/url] My LAN box when i put it back together is in this case that i custom painted - [url=http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg]http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg[/url]

What's Your Computer Case Look Like!

Tue, 01 Nov 2011 22:57:27 GMT

[quote=Tech_Guy11]I am surprised there are no responses to this forum. I thought this idea would have taken off ???[/quote] you know... it's probably cos they all have either a Antec 300, 600, 900 Gaming case, OR a CM Scout or CM690. (or it's beige, or cost $20 and embarased about it... teehee) Joke'n no i'm not ;)

What's Your Computer Case Look Like!

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 13:33:57 GMT

you know... ive you hover over the image it gives you options that let you just post the image... http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l618/tigrooby/DSCF0144.jpg

What's Your Computer Case Look Like!

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:30:07 GMT

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... PERSonaly i like either minimumist OR over the top custom painted stuff my ARC Case looks like your basic, black midi tower, but inside is possibly the best case i have ever worked on. HUGE improvement over the fractal R1 and R2, (the ARC is an R3 chassis with no sound deadening, and a no door pretty much), with a mod @ the tip to allow a 240 Radiator or 3 12-14cm fans, (thou you lose the top CD spot, so it's kinda useless) not sure if you can see my RAD in the top of the case in that pic above, but it's mounted with 2x 12cm fans above it. from install to leak testing that system took me... 3 hours? to complete? i and in around that i had to get go get a filler bottle, distilled water, AND the plate @ home that i forgot to put back on after fitting the aqua cooling res and pump top. ... started filling the RES, and all the water spat out of the bottom of the pump... for all those that care - XSPC RASA block Custom modded Laning DDC pump Aqua cooling pumptop and Res Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Black Rad 2x Enermax Twister Bearing 120mm PWM Fan bits power compression fittings Primoflex White 3/8ID 5/8OD tube. parts bought from both PCCG and thekoolroom my 2500K @ 4.3ghz sits are 2-3deg C about ambeint under load, and all you can heat is the water moving throu the pump, (highflow head/pump mod)

What's Your Computer Case Look Like!

Thu, 03 Nov 2011 12:19:20 GMT

SLOWLY aquireing the parts are they go run out, or on special... or on EBAY :P XSPC RASA block - $49 Custom modded Laning DDC pump - $80 for 2 from HK, (Swiftech Equive. worth $120 each) Aqua cooling pumptop and Res - $15 for RES $22 for pump top Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Black Rad - $49 2x Enermax Twister Bearing 120mm PWM Fan - $22 each bits power compression fittings - MOST expensive bit, $11 each, needed 6 Primoflex White 3/8ID 5/8OD tube. - $3 per foot, so $12? total $337 i bought 2 pumps incase - a) one fails, or due to extreme cheapness of the pump, one doesn't work, (considering a Laning pump sells for $100+\- or the Swiftech for $120+ i was still ontop) b) decide to water cool the my video card, and @ that point, due to the design of the CPU and GPU water blocks i'd end up using, pressure drop will hinder cooling, so i need an extra pump to keep pressure's nominal. Motherboard - $150 or something, (think they are like $120 now) memory - Just bought a 8g geil pack for it, $59 CPU 2500K - $200 or so. (use to work @ GD, so i got better than list price for some gear) Case - $145 HDD 2x 500 WD Blues in RAID, and OLD 32gb SSD for scratch - no idea... this is gear i had lieing around. the SSD is ACTUALLY slower that the 500's in stripe it's that old. it's for me Photoshop web/graphic design work EVERYTHING else was left over from last build...

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 22:42:51 GMT

ok, here's one for you - i'm guessing that you plan to overclock your system. i have that exact same motherboard... AND i can't push the CPU, (2500K), past 4.3ghz stable, even with an insane watercooling setup. (2-3deg C above ambient underload). I have upgraded my memory since, and haven't tried since, honestly installed the memory, turned on the machine, and turned it off again. the L-17 will take a full size board yeah? get a better board. Also, you can't run SSD caching on a RAID array, EVEN thou it WILL let you. trust me, i've tried. The set up will fall over after a few days. might work with a mirror array, but if you read the whitepaper about SSD Caching on Z68 board, it's only recommended that you run it on a single drive. currently i have my 2x 500 WD blue's in stripe, and the SSD i have, (old MLC Patriot 32gb), as readyboost and scratch disk for Photoshop. Fast enough. i'd probably spend the $100 on an better motherboard, OR save a little more, just get a 120gb SSD for the OS drive, and use the stripe for scatch in 3d studio...

Budget Gaming Build -- Improvement?

Tue, 08 Nov 2011 11:41:30 GMT

ok, but i'm not using the Asrock board. I'm running the CHEAPEST Z68 board i could find @ the time while i was setting up my water cooling gear. THAT and it was also supposed to fit into that little white case i have linked in a difference post, and there's a pic of my w/c setup there also. As the kit i'm running is not a sealed kit like that Antec one mentioned above, if i didn't get it right, it'd leak. and it did during initial testing, but that was my bad, (i didn't seal the bottom of the pump after fitting the high flow head top and resivour to the system). I wasn't going to fit it to an expensive board on the get-go, only to have it leak later on. i honestly expected a little more out of the board, but i'm not supprised in the slightest that i didn't. I WAS pointing out that if he used the gigabyte board mentioned, and assuming that he's picked that CPU And cooler in luo of overclocking, he might be a little disappointed. that said, if u didn't get it already, i bought the CHEAPEST of everything during the build, incase i got a leak. Cheap ram, cheap board, even started with an i3 CPU during initial testing. i have replaced the ram with, but i haven't had a chance to see if it's the memory, or the board, but it's not overheating. i haven't built a watercooling system like this in a long time, and you couldn't get compression fittings like i'm using back then, and i didn't feel like taking any chances. System runs @ no more than 30 degC under load? my last "high end" setup consisted of a radiator of a motorcycle, an Ehim pump from fish tank, barb fittings and zip ties. all the water blocks were hand made, and can't even remember what we used for res. managed to get a extra GHZ out of a AMD 3200+ back in the day... pretty impressive back then. Machine's been leak free for about 2 weeks now. so after Xmas, once i've bought some new tires, i SHOULD be able to get a better board :) aiming for a 5-5.2ghz OC What is cool, i have an i3, a GTX275, (am running a pair of GTX465's in the system now), and a z68 board to go into that little case as a LAN box, so i don't have to lug my main system around with me.

Heavy Photoshop & Video Editing PC

Wed, 12 Oct 2011 13:53:53 GMT

[quote=tlowe]CPU Cooler:Noctua NH D14[/quote] ok, unless u are going to overclock the system, then you dont need that. use that to go towards your video card. the stock cooler is virtually silent. [quote=tlowe]RAM: G.SKILL DDR3 16GB PC-17000/2133 [RipjawsX] [/quote] This memory's good, but again, unless you plan to overclock your CPU, overkill. I've been using the Geil Corsa memory, and 2x 8gb packs shouldn't set you back more then $140 total leaving you with $$$ to go towards a highend video card, if needed. you'll need to look up what video card you need, if you dont wanna go for a quadro card, as only a few mainstream video cards are actually supported. i know premier CS5+ will only run accelerated using a GTX295/480/580/590 [quote=tlowe]it needs to have at least 2 firewire and esata ports at the rear [/quote] swap the motherboard for the GA-Z68XP-UD5 as it has 2x estat ports, but i can't see how many f/wire ports it runs, so worst case, you can buy a PCI express firewire card for about $60. 2x 60gig drives in stripe would be the go, as it'll move about a gig of data a second, over your mirror array's maybe 75meg per second. as long as it's for OS and scratch, as a stripe array has more potential to fail over a single drive, (theoretically). The antech 180 cases are great, but i would also have a look @ the fractal design case as well. the layout in the fractal cases are a little easier to work with, and would be just as quiet.

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 07:38:59 GMT

yeah, the only limitation is the video card height. you dont get 1/2 height decent cards anymore. one thing too, is the fact that the new FM1 setups have a psuedo xfire mode, increasing the output of a 6550 or 6570 buy about 50%, AND the video card on the CPU likes memory bandwidth, so the faster the memory, the better i'm an intel guy, but i was looking this up in leu of building a decent media setup on the cheap, and this is what i found - from the reviews i found that the best memory for the $$$ is the Geil Corsa. i'm running them myself in my mini LAN box, which is obviously worth more then $500, and once i've worked out how to mount the water cooling, and taken some picks, i'll post it on the site. they over clock well, and are cheap. anyway, this is what i'd build - Prices from GD unless otherwise noted. AMD A8 3850 $158 Gigabyte Ga-a75M $100 Geil Corsa 8gb pack, 1600, (easy overclock to 1866), $59 HIS 6570 FANLESS $89 Coolermaster Superfan 80mm $9 Thermaltake 500w Litepower $59 Silverstone ML03 $89, (PCCG) $572 total, (plus postage on the case, is you DO Get it from PCCG) Now i would highly recommend the Silverstone ML03. SFF, will take a full size optical drive, full size PSU, and will run up to 4 8mm fans if cooling becomes an issue. AND front USB3! i found it on PCCG, but if you're local ti brissy, (at a guess), you'll have to hunt for one, or at least ask your local supplier to get one for you. They come out of Altec, so that shouldn't be an issue. this would be the fastest thing you can squeaze into a 1/2 height system. If you just want small, look @ the silverstone SG03 or SG04 from the SUGO series, or the Fortress FT03 cases. They are more expensive, but they give you infiately more upgradability. you can fit a full size card in them, and full anything up to 10.5 inchs long, (basically any card other that a 590 or 6990)

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:03:40 GMT

the other option is to look @ a m-ITX board, and run the Lian Li PC-Q08B Black HTPC Case. this will give you the small size and and room to upgrade the video later, and not have to build a new PC next time so this - [quote=Mr Mrrtn]CASE: Coolermaster Elite 341 (185 x 365 x 400 mm) Comes with 420W PSU $63 alt CASE1: Silverstone TJ08 (195 x 381 x 378 mm) Higher quality case, but without PSU $104 alt CASE2: Lian Li PC-Q11 (200 x 326 x 260 mm) Gorgeous case, but also most $$$ $129 PSU: Antec Neo Eco 520W (or should I go for the 420W instead?) $66 CASEfan: Noctua NF-R8-1800 (quiet and small) $24 MOBO: Asus P8H67-M-LE V3 (MicroATX, USB3, SATA3) $108 CPU: Intel i3 2100 $120 CPUcooler: SilverStone NT07-AM2 $25 MEM: G-skill Ripjaws X, 4gb $39 GPU: Gigabyte Radeon HD6670 (Ok performance you think?) $95 TOTAL = $474 (with the Coolermaster case) or $581 (Silverstone Case+PSU)[/quote] becomes this - CASE: Lian Li PC-Q08B Black HTPC Case $149 (you get what you pay for right?) PSU: Thermaltake 500w Litepower $59 CASEfan: N/A (ships with quiet 12cm) MOBO: Asrock H61M-ITX $89 (PCCG) CPU: Intel i3 2100 $120 CPUcooler: N/a, (the stock cooler, even @ full speed, is pretty much silent, and you can't OC an i3, so it'll run cool anyway) MEM: G-skill Ripjaws X, 4gb $39 - $456 leaving you enough, inside your $600 budget, to add a 6790, which should give you about the same frame rate as a 6850 as long as you run low AF settings and turn off AA hell, if you dont care TOOO much about the case, run the elite 340, and throw a 560ti @ it. And btw, since you're running an i3, the difference between a H61, H67, or Z68 board is neglegable, unless you wanna do video encoding, then you need the z68. From experience, in 90% of games, the i3 2100 is as fast as my s/775 QX9650 @ 4.2ghz i have as my current gaming rig. I'm working on a 5ghz watercooled i5 2500K currently, all inside my SG03 case. currently having clearence issues, but once i find my dremel, they should disappear :)

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:13:49 GMT

hell, you're local to brissy right? wanna buy a slightly used i3 2100, (talking in my z68 setup for about a week, used only to test the board before i started fitting the WC), for $100? Every little bit counts right?

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:21:24 GMT

[quote=John in Brisbane]You could then buy a p67 mobo, core i5 2500k, Win7 and 4gb of 2133 ripjaws for $486. That's $550ish [/quote] you'd be hard pressed to find a p67 m-ATX board... on GD's site, Asus have a p8p67m board listed, but it's $10 more than the cheapest Z68 gigabyte board listed. once thing he hasn't touched on is if he plans to Overclock. if so, and this is JUST going to be a mini gaming/lan rig, then an i3 will be fine. i was getting the same benchmarks from my i3 as i was from my i5 2500K @ stock speeds, both on a gigabyte Z68MA-D2H-B3 and a GTX275. i had to OC the 2500K to 4+ghz before it really made a difference in benchmarks and games. AND btw, the stock cooler ran that speed without issue, with temps around 70deg C underload. will withing tolerence, and not noisy @ all.

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 20:50:49 GMT

[quote=Mr Mrrtn] newbie question, but how much difference does RAM speed make. Many board accept up to 1333MHz ram, while the more expensive take 1600MHz or more, is that a big difference?[/quote] THAT depends on the memory controller achitecture. Current day chips, but intel and AMD, the MHZ speed of the ram is more important than the latency. latency or memory timings, is the CAS, RAS to CAS and so on, and if you look @ the memory, there's usually a string of numbers. EG 9-9-9-28. were this makes a small emount of difference, not as much as the MHZ of the memory. s/775 setup's, timings make more of a difference. anyway, tighter timings make memory more expensive. this is why i keep harping on about this geil memory. $59 for 8gb ram that OC's well, looks trick, and reviews within other chip's that cost 2-3x as much. [quote=Mr Mrrtn]Im a intel-person myself, and an considering making that 1/2 size build with the i3 chip and HD6570 GPu. (came across some reviews that the A8 3850 has sub-par performance to the i3 chip). [/quote] sure. but for the mini system you are building, not for gaming. remember i was talking about the xfire thingy. i can't remember EXACTLY what AMD are calling it, but the 6550 that's in the A8 chips can be used in xfire to increase the speed of another 6550 or 6570 by about 50%. considering the limitations of the 1/2 height case, for gaming, this will give you best frame rate. for EVERYTHING else the i3 will be faster, so you have to decide what is more important. and yes, GD stands for Gamedude. i thought that's what you meant by [i]G*comp[/i] eh... :) [quote=Mr Mrrtn]Do you know if this can be stood on it's side ok to minimise the horizontal footprint? I cant seem to find anything about this on the Silverstone website.[/quote] i have no idea. but i dont see why not. i guess it'll be fine if you make sure fans are @ the top. u might need to make something funky to make that work. the other option is the ISK300 or ISK310 if you want something uber small, but you'll need a lappy ODD and a ITX board. it will do what you're asking. but it's very small, and you'll need to get a 2.5inch lappy drive.

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:07:31 GMT

[quote=Mr Mrrtn]Tossing up between two motherboards: GIGABYTE GA-Z68M-D2H $119 and the Asus P8Z68-M_PRO v3 $140, because they accept 1600MHz ram. [/quote] ok, like i said, i'm using the model up from the gigabyte board you mention, and there's a setting, memory ratio, that pumps up the memory from 1600 to 1866mhz, without issue. Here's the thing. until the latest ver of CPU's, if memory ran out of sinc, or out of step, of the clock speed of the CPU the information that the CPU needed to process wouldn't be in the right place, and either the CPU or the memory wouldn't be able to deliever the data, and the system would actually slow. hence like i said above, latency made more of a difference. anyway, so i dont confusing you more, that's not the issue anymore. AND just because the motherboard SAYS it takes 1333 memory, doesn't mean it can't run it faster or at all. you do realize thou, that CPU's and motherboards, and memory timings, all things being equal, can increase frame rates in a game by, i dont know, 1 or 2 frames per second? the cost between running a h61 and a z68 is what, $50? you spend that on a video card, and you'll pump the card up to the next chipset, and you might gain up to 20fps. but at the end of the day, it's your call, and your money. if you need a hand building he computer, and you're southside, i can help. (still have that i3 CPU 2 :)

Updating my gaming comp

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:18:08 GMT

if you can afford the extra Power on the PSU, go for it. it will save you having possible issues later on, if you decide to add more gear to your case. BTW, both video cards are about the same depth, produce similar heat, and are both about as loud. the biggest upside on the nvidia, you'll get faster frame rate if you run 2x cards. THEN you'll need a 1000w psu, and that's something to think about as well BTW, before the patch and DX11 update, crisis ran quite well on my GTX275 setup, (s/775 QX9650@4.2ghz, 4gb ram...), so for all intents and purposes, a GTX570 would be fine, and the EVGA cards are 9inchs long, (1.5 less than stock, and 3 less than the 590 and 6990, which i believe are still 12 inchs long) Also, going back to the PSU, the more head room your PSU has, (the difference between how much your PSU can produce, and what the system actually requires full load), the longer it SHOULD last, within reason. i mean, if you have a 1500wPSU, and the system ONLY requires 200, then you're nuts... rule of thumb i use is 25% head room, 20% if you plan to add another video card, as long as you incorp that into the equation. EG - 375wx2 for 2x 590 135w for CPU 20-50w for the motherboard, depending on what you have, and how much you are o/c the CPU 10-20w for optical drive 20w for each HDD total - 975w + head room of 20% 1170w, so you'd get a 1200w PSU for one card 570w + headroom of 25% 720or so, so minimum 750w PSU.

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:37:43 GMT

one thing i just thought is... memory clearence. the heatsinks on the ripjaws stuff, (And the geil corsa), are quite tall. since you're planning to run an i3, and the memory bandwidth might not be soo critical, (it only effected the FM1 chip's video processor. the more memory bandwidth the faster they ran, which is a trait of video cards) i'dd look @ The kingston packs, as they are usually super lowprofile, and very good quality. Also, you can buy a 4 pack of Coolermaster 80mm fans for $35, (sans gamedude), which apart from the bearing will have very simular spec of the skythe gear. i use these things in my ISK300 case, and it's nearly dead silent. This thing lives under my bed for audio purposes, and i only hear it when i'm "looking" for it. my wife's never ever noticed.

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:38:48 GMT

the ripjaws gear i've seen/used had larger than normal clearence. almost as much as the dominator ram i'm using in my current s/775 gaming rig. but... as long as nothing overhangs, then it should be fine. (i can't load that pic, pop's up with an error.) [quote=Mr Mrrtn]By the way, is there any major consequence to installing 2x2gb rams now and another 2x2gb in a while, compared to going for 2x4gb initially? (assuming im staying with the same make/brand all along)[/quote] no, as long as you run the same speed and timings, they dont even have to be the same brand, you shouldn't have an issue. BUT it's always best to have EXACTLY the same memory. same batch. I have 3x2gb packs of g-skill memory, all the same order number from the suppliers, but they all have different heatsinks, and memory timings. THAT said, for an extra $20 now, you could just buy 2x4gb set and it'll never be an issue, yeah? [quote=Mr Mrrtn]How do you think the case will run without additional case-fans? Should i otherwise put all 4 in or would less do?[/quote] hmmm... your system should run fairly cool, really. like i said before, my i5 @ 4.2ghz, running stock cooler, ran fine in a small case, with only a single 12cm fan. but those coolermaster fans are pretty good, and cheap if you buy a pack. build it with 2 fans, see how you go. if you need more, add more. the machine's not going to explode if running 2 fans isn't enough... Also, when you get the system, make sure if the manual tells to you mount the fans a certain way, do so. something like this is going to be designed to have the fans either pushing or pulling air throu the case, and the difference might be subtantial

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 09:00:31 GMT

ok, from experience, the coolermaster ones @ full speed are very queit. any well designed fan will pretty much silent @ 1200rpm or under. one thing to remember, most of the noise that's produced when it comes to fans and cooling is the air rushing past the samped metal grill of 95% of all cases. it's why 12 and 14 and 20cm fans exist. to get the same air flow in an 8cm fan, you need to more the air has to move 3-4x faster. honestly, i'd mount the 4 fans, with the 2 furthest away from the CPU fan controled, and the 2 closest on the PSU @ full noise. the other options is to get 2x [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_508&products_id=15177]Arctic Cooling 80mm F8 TC Fan[/url], which have a thermal sensor on them, and will spin up if they read hot temps, like the motherboard will. the only downside i see with them is the thermal resister os set to 35deg, so if you put the sensor too close to the northbridge or CPU, it'll spin up faser than it should. it comes with a length of wire so you can place the sensor anywere tyou want. and it's only $9 out of PCCG

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 09:03:12 GMT

ACTUALLY this is the Coolermaster pack i was talking about - [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_508&products_id=5271]click here[/url] and obviously GD has it prices a little high. [b]6[/b] for $19. (they do a 4x12cm pack as well, hence the confusion, my bad) BTW, the slimline coolermaster 80mm fan they list IS NOT queit. due to its fin design, cos it's soo slim, it's inheretly noisy mind you if you want quiet and can stretch the budget, the Noctua gear is awesome. The air they move and the speeds they run at the noise level is very low. Anything under about 19db should be quieter then your fridge running, (asuming you have a new fridge)

MicroATX Gamer Build, sub $600 Challenge

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 09:11:27 GMT

you could also run one of these - [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_73&products_id=17923]click here[/url] and 4x PWM fans, like the [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_508&products_id=15297]Arctic Cooling 80mm F8 PWM Fan[/url]

OCZ Vertex/Agility 3 Issue

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 12:09:23 GMT

Hey all I've had some, and been reading up on issues that ppl are having with the current V3 and A3 OCZ SSD's. Short device life, random loss of connection to controller, (resulting in BSOD and not being seen in BIOS until the system has been disconnected from the wall for about as long as it takes for the machines to get from the site we have these deployed to my tech room), randomly not being as fast as it should be... Anyone else share my pain? There's a lot of post on the OCZ forums about these drives, but no REAL solutions, just alot of moaning, and OCZ staff telling ppl to "try this and let me know how you go" Currently i have a drive that will not detect in the bios, but the Diag LED's on the drive are telling me it's OK. Heading out now to take it back and get a new one.... but out of the 11 odd we deployed, we've replaced 1, (now 2), and had issues with another, thou it's not fallen over yet anyone?

OCZ Vertex/Agility 3 Issue

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 23:07:12 GMT

yeah, i was reading on the ocz forums that the updates didn't make much of a difference, and that some of the drives can only be running for about 24hours constantly, (V3's), and you needed 10% of the drive for OP or the performance died down. Also, you needed to turn of trim, C3-C6 power saving, basically EVERYTHING that might put the drive to sleep, or after a while it dies crazyness

Gaming/video editing Rig

Mon, 12 Sep 2011 20:41:35 GMT

hey man... something doesn't sit right with that picture. i have some cheap Geil memory, (enchanced plus 1500) running on my mATX Gigabyte Z68MA-UD2H b3 board, and my memory figure is 7.5, (running an i3 2100 BTW) you should be getting at least what i'm getting Check and make sure you're memory's running in Dual channel, or 128bit mode. if you've got them in the wrong slots, you might be running only single channel or 64 bit mode, giving literally 1/2 the bandwidth. Make sure that the memory is in slots A1 and B1 oh... and i MUST be tired, i hit the red X on that picture of yours, and it took me a few seconds to figure out why that window wouldn't close....

Gaming/video editing Rig

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 23:20:13 GMT

[url=http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/system_performance.jpg]http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/system_performance.jpg[/url] This is my performance scores for my NEW 2500K setup finished putting it together tonite, awaiting the fittings and hoses for my water cooling gear, aiming for 5ghz+ (Missus not happy... spent $250 on ram and CPU, and $190 on fittings, fans and mods, over the $250 or so i've spent already on the case mods, waterblock, res, rad, and pumps) 2500K @ 4.1ghz stock cooler, 70degC @ 100% load all 4 cores, 32degC idle. Gigabyte Z68MA-UD2 B3 8gb Geil enhanced Corsa 1600 memory, (@ 1866 cas 10) 1tb Seagate HDD HD4890, (GTX295 glitching, going to send it back... again) Silverstone Strider Pro 1000w all stuffed into a Silverstone SG-03 case, with a single 12cm fan Considering the size of the case, (VERY SMALL, with limited airflow), i recon that's exceptable temps for that level of OC... anyway My board has A1 and B1 in the 4th and 2nd slots, moving away from the CPU, (so effectively backwards), and i'm assuming the same way it's setup in his case MAYBE it's the timings that are effecting the bandwidth without looking @ your boards BIOS, can't give you detailed directions, but my ram i setup - XMP profile 1 Ratio 18.66 CAS set to 10, rest to auto, (your ram is rated @ 2000, so i'd leave the CAS set to AUTO) The XMP profile should tell the bios what's the best CAS timings for the set frequency. whatever my board auto found my ram to run @ had the windows performance rating peged @ 7.6 for the ram and 7.1 for the cpu before i started playing with the the above and overclocking. bit of a jump :) [b] and not bad for memory that cost me $59 for an 8gb pack :P[/b]

Gaming/video editing Rig

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 23:44:42 GMT

[url=http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg]http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg[/url] Pic of case, to give you idea on it's size. it's about a 12inchs from front to back... like the colours? :)

Gaming/video editing Rig

Thu, 15 Sep 2011 10:21:08 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]You and your mechanical HDD's hehe im assuming thats the 5.9 [/quote] yep. Seagate, refurb, 7200.12 it's a stop gap while i work out how put this system together, and test the hardware before i install the Water cooling gear. I have a SSD waiting in the wings, was just waiting for the 2x hot swap caddy to arrive, so i can free up the bottom of the case, (were the hdd's mount factory), for pump or rad clearence. [quote=Chris.Lampard]Nice little setup there id add more fans myself i've seen temps fluctuate 12 degree's easily from summer to winter unless you have ducted air conditioning however [/quote] yeah, house has aircon, but .... :) intend to shoe horn a Black ice Stealth pro 240 rad, 2x enermax fans, 1 modded Lanig DDC pump, with Aqua cool pump top and res, XSPC rasa waterblock, waiting one the hose and compression fitting to show up, and i'll start on the build 5ghz+ here i come :)

PC will not boot

Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:26:48 GMT

Swap the PSU out, and see it if posts then. If one of the rails fails, or a CAP fails on the 12V, and voltages drop over one of the rails, most newer motherboard have voltage protection, and wont start up. if there's no POST beep when you turn it on after you've checked to make sure it's NOT a psu, you need to make sure that you have a PC speaker pluged in. if no, get one, or you wont be able to work out the issue once you've dont that, pull the memory out, turn it on and see if it beeps. if it does, your memory if faulty. if not, put the memory back in, and pull the CPU out, and turn it own, and if it beeps, then your CPU has failed if there's NO beep, no mater what you've done, then your motherboard faulty Good luck :)

Budget Gaming PC Build

Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:11:30 GMT

[quote=Mayo] long as you like the look of the case. Looks pretty boring to me :P [/quote] :P you talking to me or QW? ... case looks sexy in the flesh, all white and black. i have a link to a pic here - [url=http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg]http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i355/ss-rotel/IMG_0474.jpg[/url] sorry it's only a iphone pic

Gaming/video editing Rig

Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:20:19 GMT

[quote=Mayo] I currently have a CM690 and will be getting rid of it, it makes my gear run hot and is pretty heavy/clunky[/quote] i have one too, and it doesn't run hot... you must be doing it wrong :) QX9650 OC to 4.2ghz stable, with gtx275, 4x 150 raptors in RAID 0, chip runs @ max 50 degC under load, managed to pull 20 degC out of the NB... its not quiet thou... it'll give you that.. [quote=Mayo]60gb is also gonna fill up real quick for the C: drive[/quote] maybe, but you can hack to registry to place your user data on a second drive... and its not that hard :)

Gaming/video editing Rig

Sat, 17 Sep 2011 21:40:33 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]I am now sus on the corsair Vengeance might change to g.skill or something else.[/quote] why? i'm guessing that you/he checked the memory and it's set up right, and it still "slow" DID you mem test it? did you also check the performance logs and see how many "errors per second" windows is registering? If you are getting errors in either, they might not be serious enough to actually make windows crash, but... You might need a - A) Bios update. seen that fix memory compat. errors. b) relax the timings. c) or up the voltage slightly d) i know it's new memory, but clean the contacts/check to make sure there's nothing that would stop the memory from being seated properly. G'Skill stuff has recently been a bit... mediocur at best. i have a bunch that was AWESOME when i bought it... then one day.. no post. tested, faulty memory, awesome, swap, system posts. EVENTUALLY got around to testing it, and tested ok. put it back into the system that it used to be in, which it worked fine for at least 18 months, no post. each stick will work, singlely, but when the board went into dual channel mode, nothing. took it back, tested find, gave up. the other week, i found it, and put it in an old m/board, and they work, perfectly. They seem to have crazy random compat issues... this geil stuff i bought the other day, it's cheap, fast, clocks up well, and the reviews i read before i bought it all point to it being pretty good, for the price. (mushkin red seems the be the shiz ATM, but i haven't seen mushkin ram in aust for age...)

Gaming/video editing Rig

Mon, 19 Sep 2011 21:45:03 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Mushkin seem to be pushing the SSD's alot over here but don't see there ram much at all[/quote] wierd... i haven't seen any mushkin SSD's... i've used their memory before, and it's always been stable and fast. [quote=Chris.Lampard]so yeah maybe the voltage maybe try 1.525V not 1.5V.[/quote] that will make a little difference.. but not to the extent that would been needed to make that memory give the score it should... it honestly sounds like it's running in single channel mode... maybe there's a bios setting that's forcing the memory into single channel mode...? i dont know... i got nothing :|

Budget Gaming PC Build

Sat, 03 Sep 2011 13:58:15 GMT

yep, the Z68XP-UD3-iSSD comes with the SSD onboard, the Z68XP-UD3 doesn't. sounds like a good build. it shouldn't be loud, thou the video card MAY spin up underload, (read, playing games), and if you're anything like me, you wont hear it over the headphones/speakers anyway if it IS a problem, put it under the desk. the futher away it is from you, the quiter it will become :) i dont think there's an issue with the case's "lack" of fan spots. a well built system, so you've taken the time to put it together with minimal cabling in the way of the airflow, you shouldn't need more than 3 case fans anyway. 1-2 at the front pushing cool air in, 1 @ the back sucking out the hot air. remember, the PSU will be venting out the back, along with the shiny video card. you want a negative presure in the case, (more air getting blown out the back then being sucked into the case), to prevent dust settling in the system. BTW, i finially finished modding my SG-03 case, ([url=http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2009/03/04/silverstone-sugo-sg03/1]Click here for the Bit-tech review of the case before i painted it[/url]), and put it together last nite. (only) i3 2100 <- once i've fitted out the watercooling, i'll upgrade that to a 2500K or 2600K 4gb Geil 15000 ram Z68M-UD3 <- might buy a cheap h61 board for the watercooling test fit out... or just save for the Rampage Gene a seagate 1tb HDD i had lieing around, (think it's a re-furb...) Silverstone 1000w Strider Plus AND a XFX GTX-295 15000+ 3dmark Vantage points, and considering i'm currently running a single 12cm Zalman ZM-F3, after playing bulletstorm all last nite, (testing Video card, it's supposed to glitch, is ma sisters), CPU temp was MAYBE 40degC and system temp was MAYBE 50. AND the video card didn't glitch. Will take some pics and post sometime soon. Wanted to mesure it up to make sure i have enough room for the watercooling gear i have on my desk. it's going to by tight, (might have to mod the PSU cable length), but it WILL fit i just wont be able to fit a full size card. will JUST be able to fit a GTX570, (Rad is to fit in the front of the case)

What has happened to Dell computers?

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:10:24 GMT

cost cutting = dell fail OBVIOUSLY, if you read enough of this forum, you'll realize that i build all my systems personally, so this will never be my problem, but @ the end of the day, you get what you pay for. OR @ a guess, you bought it all on the same order, and there might just be a bad batch of components or something, and you're just unlucky If the tech's aren't taking long to fix the issues, then they know it's an issue, and know how to deal with it. ALL i can say to you is, learn how to build and fault find your own computers, and dont buy a dell, compaq, and i'd say HP, but i dont think that's an issue anymore :) (that will mean that you have to fix your problems as they arise, but you'll probably save enough $$$ to build a spare comp, so you reduce your down time, and/or Lenovo laptops that dont break?)

Gaming/video editing Rig

Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:00:33 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]its because they file you through like cattle in a rodeo auction [/quote] AHHH but so does Target now... but no, ppl hate GD cos of warrenty returns. Unfortunately, due to the nature of the beast, some of the ppl that buy from there REALLY only have a limited undertanding of the what they are buying, and when they break it, then flame on forums... THAT said, the owner's a bit of a ... well ... and hopefully now all his smart staff wised up and found better jobs, he'll understand that staff are his biggest asset, not a liabilty. ANYway... [quote=Chris.Lampard]I was wondering something and i know you would know rotel from your inside edge do Gamedude even have a complaints section or box ? [/quote] i honestly dont think that it would do much, but you can email sales@ with suggestions. if it's funny, it might end up on the notice board :) Glad to hear that his system's up and i'm GUESSING you gave him a hand it putting it together :)

A review of APC Magazine Tablet article

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:34:01 GMT

dude - if an Iphone GPS app, (or any app for that matter) for loads on the Ipad it's flagged as such. It doesn't mean it'll work correctly. i have lots of apps on my ipad that aren't writen FOR the ipad, but still work... I can't remember an actual GPS modual fitted to the ipad, ([i]edit - seems like GPS is part of the 3G modual that is missing from the WIFI only ver[/i]), but most GPS app will geo-locate depending on if it can connect to a mobile tower or not. ([i]geo-locate is suplementry, and used only if it can't find, or it's taking too long to find the satelites[/i] Obviously, this isn't very acurate, but it's how google maps works on the iphone 3G, (not the 3GS). thou... why would you want to use an Ipad as a GPS anyway? Walking round the city, looking like a r-tard, with an ipad telling you were to do? or better yet, it's stuck to the center of your windscreen... :) BTW, i think it's Navman, that has a GPS modual for the Ipod Touch, for about a $100. seriously thought of getting one, as it's a charger, holder, and has audio out to plug into you're stereo. awesome looking bit of kit.

A review of APC Magazine Tablet article

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:38:23 GMT

oh, and i just read there are a couple of Apple approved Bluetooth GPS receivers available, but i got board, and didn't look up how easy they are to get in OZ and what apps they work with. .... but i get the feeling that you're not going to buy an ipad, and yesterday bought a HP for $98?

PCCG FB: DEAD SSD's Post !!!! SSD USERES

Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:32:52 GMT

my first SSD was an Adata 1st gen 32gb MLC drive... was in my Lenovo t61, then ran OS on my Atom rig to go in my car, then when into my MSI 262 12inch lappy, then i sold, and is back running my Atom rig. 2 Yrs on, still works,

Gaming/video editing Rig

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 21:05:44 GMT

try this one - [url=http://apcmag.com/live-build-the-best-all-rounder-pc-you-can-build-today_15_july_11.htm]apcmag.com/live-build-the-best-all-rounder-pc-you-can-build-today_15_july_11.htm[/url] you'll probably find street price a little cheaper, and if you throw a little bit more money @ the video card it will play games better, but i can't think of anything else you'd need...

Noobs First build

Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:04:38 GMT

OR you can upgrade what you already have, and by either upgrading the OS to win7, (vista sux), or add more memory, and with whatever you have left, spend it on a video card. Vista and Adobe are memory hogs, so that's going to be you biggest issue really. [quote=scoteye]My budget is embarrassingly small [/quote] Doesn't help me :) Still, i would upgrade the exsisting, starting with the memory, (which is cheap), then the video card, (upgrading the PSU might be required here), then the OS, then start saving you money for a new computer. then all you need to buy is a case, CPU and motherboard, maybe a new harddrive, you'll be able to re-use the Optical drive, exsisting HDD, and the Videocard and PSU you bought. you'll end up with better gear, and still a working computer, as you slowly spend/save the money. Hope this helps, and makes sense

Tips For increasing my overclock

Fri, 05 Aug 2011 12:02:04 GMT

ok, @ the level you're pushin, there is alot more think about then the FSB, or BCLK or whatever they call it now. to push a little more out of the memory, you'll need to up the voltage slightly on the ram, and relax the timings, so drop the CAS to 9, and up the voltage to whatever the MAX V is on the ram, (you'll need to look that up, i can't be bothered *grin*) Also, it might be the motherboard limiting the OC. the Striker board i'm using, is my limitation to the OC for my QX9650. i KNOW the CPU can get a 4.6+ghz OC, but i can't push more than 4.2ghz stable cos of the board. if i had an Intel board, wouldn't be a problem. anyway... try the ram thing, and up the voltage on the CPU a little if you haven't already...

how to increase hard drive memory

Mon, 08 Aug 2011 10:06:52 GMT

i think the problem here is this ISN'T a laptop, it's a netbook. check Ebay for EEEpc SSD upgrades. you should find something you need, (i can't remember exactly they are call, but this should give you the right details) you can also get SD memory adaptors for these drive interfaces as well. might be worth the effort there

Tips For increasing my overclock

Mon, 08 Aug 2011 10:17:04 GMT

ok, that's the problem. the LX variants of the are cut down versions, and they usually have the minmum power rails to get the machine working I'm supprised you are getting 4.4ghz at all basically the motherboad can't supply a stable current for the CPU and ram, as there isnt' enough power circuitry. really? the difference between 4.3ghz, (which will be your stable OC), and 4.5ghz, will be able 2-3FPS in any game. Not worth the effort good work BTW

Power Supply Unit which one to get??

Mon, 08 Aug 2011 10:24:35 GMT

get this one - GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 and forgot the USB3 card, (which in ALL honesty, ATM USB3 is a waste of time. the difference between USB2 and USB3 in a 7200rpm is 7-10mbps, which isn't really worth the $$$) and get the biggest PSU you can inside the budget, of a name brand... i still recon the Corsair gear's the go...

Power Supply Unit which one to get??

Tue, 09 Aug 2011 14:22:00 GMT

ok, cool.... we were strugling to get more then 35mb/s, but admitedly they were lots of small files. large files always copy faster.

Gaming/video editing Rig

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 13:59:31 GMT

yeah, pretty much, the only thing you have to worry about is postage. of the case. that'll kill you. get the case locally. CM690's are pretty common. Case is a case really, but you have to look @ it every day, go to your local shop and see what like and get that. You'll find that everything that's out there now that's of decent make will fit a full size video card, but make sure it has at least 12inch depth just in case

Gaming/video editing Rig

Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:52:33 GMT

hahah... you called MSY a rip off :) sorry.... still giggling... :) seriously, if you're going to buy of places that list awesomely cheap prices, then expect to get horrible aftersales service. They just dont have the margin to give away stock without testing it first, (there's the clincher). i mean, if i build you a computer, and you tell me that the Video card's faulty, cos it's not showing a windows on the screen, i'm not just going to give you another video card right? could be anything. not that i'm pro MSY, infact i've never shopped there, but from my time working @ Gamedude, the stories from MSY are worse then the ones from GD, and ppl HATE GD more then MSY... the ppl that post on the forums flaming GD are usually something stupid, like us not replacing something they have obviously broken... or has like 2 weeks left on warrenty, and they want a direct replacement... i remember, just before i left there, (well.. stopped helping out on saturday), a woman bought an EEEPC the day before, and was stupid enough to tell us that she only needed it for the manual and system restore CD to fix the one she bought a few weeks ago, and when she brought it back saying she didn't need it anymore, got the annoyed when we say, no refund for you. Even gave her the print out were, as a retailer, the ACCC states we dont have to accepted returned goods if the customer changes there mind if they need it or not. even gave her all the details of ppl to contact regarding this, and what to tell them, were i was right, and she wasn't going to get her way... was awesome. (i mean, i tried to help ppl that were, at the end of the day, inside their rights, but i also had fun being a bast#@d to ppl that were stupid... *GRin*)

Help upgrading PC

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 12:35:59 GMT

HEY, maybe this will fix your .net issue... :) Get an NVIDIA Card. like a GTX560Ti. that'll be fast enough and it doesn't require .net to run the controller software!, (tomshardware.com's graphix card charts put the Ti about 25% faster then the recommended 460) they only need a 6pin power connector, but you system only has a 460w PSU, so it can't say that it'd going to be enought to power that even if you had more PCI-e Power connectors. 560Ti is about the $250 mark, and an upgrade PSU should cost you about $60-100, if you buy a decent one. any name brand PSU will do, corsair, enermax... Acutally, a 585w gigabyte Odin, ($65 out of Pccasegear), will the job, my lil sister's machine runs one of them, and she's running a GTX295, without issue.

Help upgrading PC

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 19:57:05 GMT

makes little difference. i've never heard of aereon. like i said, my sis has one of the gigabyte PSU's, and is running a GTX295. which draws about the same power as a GTX580. the 560 wont draw any were near that much. you can run a 6pin adaptor with out issue. you'll just loose 2 molex addaptors, but meh. it's up to you what you do my freinds, i can only give you advice, it's up to you what you do with it :)

Help upgrading PC

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 20:02:31 GMT

[quote=Im Not Liam]ok thanks :D I'm not much of a nvidia fan xD My old computer had so many problems and they were all to do with the nvidia gpu xD[/quote] really? the last time i used an ATI card, was a pair of 5770's in CF, and i had nothing but trouble. Some random thing were my mouse cursor would triple in size, until i restarted the machine. was specific to my motherboard only, so ATI wouldn't do anything about it. always been a fan of Nvidia, but that's up to you

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:58:45 GMT

ZOMG, you dont NEED An i7 for a gaming rig, and only need the K SKU if you plan to overclock. since you HAVEN'T included a cooler, i'm assuming that you aren't. AND i can't see how you're going to the above for under a grand... since you are trying to build under a K, and assuming that you AREN'T planning to do any serious Overclocking, then i would recommened - (all prices from PC Case Gear, and not inc freight) i5 2500K - $219 (considering that 2400 is only like $30 cheaper, this IS the only i5 CPU to buy) Gigabyte GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3 Motherboard - $155 (personally have one, not a bad board) Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - $119 (8gb ram need i say more) Scythe Yasya CPU Cooler - $59 (you WILL overclock this CPU, why fight it. this will save you pulling the machine apart later) that's $552 REALLY, you want to buy the OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD 2.5". ($139) This thing's a blinder! That brings it up to $691, + Case, $59, that's $750 VTX3D Radeon HD6950 2GB @ $269, and do that firmware update things that makes it a HD6970 thing that Chris talks about, and that's only $19 over budget, @ $1019 i dare someone to build a faster gaming system for that money

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Wed, 29 Jun 2011 21:34:38 GMT

[quote=Matty Noo]also i was originally thinking of Corsair CWCH60 H60 Hydro as a cpu cooler $108 at MSY). any thoughts?[/quote] meh. you'll find that the air cooler will cool as well if not better than that particular water cooler, and no quieter eitherway [quote=Matty Noo]i am keen to oc however i have never done it before and was a bit worried about doing it right without killing my system. but would be keen to try (i know before you say there are HEAPS of forums and people willing to help).[/quote] you buy a K sku CPU, you increase the CPU Multiplier until it stops working, then drop it back a bit once you've got it to boot again, OC done. Intel have made it easy for the SB stuff. [quote=Matty Noo]after further reading i agree with the OCZ Agility 3 60GB SSD 2.5. not one bad review so far :) (thanks for the tip)[/quote] NP [quote=Matty Noo]the review i have seen put the GTX560ti > 6950 marginly however the price difference is about $30 for the 6950. (less performance for more money :s)[/quote] ok, BUT one of the boys here swears by the ability to firmware upgrade the 6950, turning it into a 6970. which is faster then a 560TI. [quote=Matty Noo]i dont personally like the G-B Z68MA-D2H-B3 (i dont need 3 pci x16 slots and wont ever) so i stick to G-B Z68XP-UD3 $177[/quote] 2 weeks ago, i would have recomended a P67 MSI board i used to build a system. was like $110 out of Gamedude. fast, well built, cheap, and very overclockable, (managed to get 4ghz out of a i5 2500 nonK with stock cooler stable) But it looks like p67'd are slowly disappearing for the z68's. @ the end of the day, whatever floats your boat. BTW, there's not 3x 16x pci slots. electronically, they are 1x16, 1x8, 1x1. They've just used the 16x slots to make it easier to fit cards. you know you can run a 16x video card in a 1x slot? infact you can run a GTX560ti in a 4x slot without losing more then maybe a frame or 2 a second. [quote=Matty Noo]is there much difference between G.Skill Ripjaws and Corsair Vengeance? i think that 8Gb is a bit overkill? but i can in either case up the g.skills to 8Gb for an extra $30[/quote] when Gskill landed in OZ, they were better than Corsair gear @ the time. faster, less latent cheaper. The kit i had was awesome. then one day, for whatever reason, they stopped working together. they post fine on their own, they test fine, but on the same board, no POST. LAtely gskill's been a little pooh. Corsair stuff now the shizz again, and no, 8gb's not overkill @ that price, really. i mean, you save, what $50, were can you put that money? it's not enough for a bigger SSD, a faster video card, a better case maybe? not going to make the computer faster... And it means that you can add 8 more later, and have 16 for when you decide to do lots of stuff @ the same time. [quote=Matty Noo]sorry if i sounded like i picked crap out of your bild, i just dont see any huge gains in there, but correct me if im wrong :)[/quote] meh, if we all did the same thing, then life would be pretty boaring [quote=Matty Noo]all prices from MSY tecnology (http://www.msy.com.au/Parts/PARTS.pdf)[/quote] Watch out there, but the last time i went into MSY, they didn't have anytthing i wanted and REALLY tried to push what they had... which was crap and over priced...

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 08:35:14 GMT

[quote=Matty Noo]Corsair Vengeance CMZ6GX3M3A1600C8 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 @ $105[/quote] Hope you haven't ordered the system yet, Cos that ram's alllll wrong. that's for a 1366 board, running Triple chanel. the Sandybridge stuff is only dual channel. if you were to run that, you'd end up having the memory only running in single chanel on that board, halving the memory bandwidth you should buy the memory pack i recommended.

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Fri, 01 Jul 2011 12:24:38 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]That case is fine since its window-less hate seeing that cheap alloy look inside a case ...[/quote] sure... but for, like $20 you can buy some etch primer, and rattle tin of paint (colour of your choice), and make it look pretty special am 1/2 way throu preping my SG-03 cas for paint, and once this weather clears up, and i have some spare time, i'll finish. will post pics as soon as it's down. (will start taking pics of stages, haven't had time, trying to fit in and around work, and putting my car together, and ID'ing all the new rattles that are coming from my engine bay... The Jazz bay is VERY small. I can't see how you would fit an K24A (accord Euro) engine, but that's the swap in Japan... going to start saving for a B16 or B20 engine out of a Civic typeR, and another jazz, and build a track car... Sorry.. .completely off topic but HEY once it's re-tuned, i'll come visit you Chris... Take you for a spin, see if i can get you to wet yourself teehee

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Sat, 02 Jul 2011 10:29:11 GMT

no no... this one is daily drive, wanna build a race car. that's pretty cool... if i had a spare few K i would buy it for sure. N14's like my fav car... used to have one, fun i used to have with that thing AND the accustic's are really good. better then te jazz [quote=Chris.Lampard]its only front wheel drive though lunches gearboxes like no tommorrow [/quote] ... u'd need to get either the gearbox out of an N1 N16 or get a stock one built into a dog box. Could just be the way it's been driven too anyway...

sub $1k Gaming Rig.

Sat, 02 Jul 2011 15:51:52 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]so it'll be prolly straight cut gears 1-4 id say maybe even 5th just for the hell of it lol [/quote] hmmm... my N14 had an issue with 5th, would randomly pop out. gear was wore slightly... now i have the habit of resting my hand on the shift when crusing :) mine was the Q 2.0L. so had the SR20DE. pretty much gutted it, had cutstom coil-overs made, and had the exhaust and inlet pipe lengths tweeked for mid range power... was a great hill climb car... but anyway... How's that coimputer going??? teehee

$2000 Build

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:58:53 GMT

[quote=SpongeBobble]I've read that the GTX 590 is a power guzzling monstrosity and generates heat like nothing else. Remember I won't be liquid cooling the GPU...I don't know how to *cry*[/quote] ok, well... no. it's actually actually better heat wise then the older 4xx cards. my 465's run @ 90-95deg C under load, and 60-70 @ idle. i managed to pull 20deg C out of them running 2x 12cm Zalman 85cfm fans blowing across them reg the watercooling, it's a little more work then stock air cooling, but the instuctions on the EK kit are very easy to follow. If you wanted, the prlimatech Genesis or Super Mega Heatsink or the Noctua HSF's are as good as 90% of all water cooling gear out there. they just have to potential to be loud. You'll need to buy fans with the prolimatech HS, again, for the $$$ the Zalman 12cm's are my pick [quote=SpongeBobble]The thing is isn't this card overkill as it will easily run at 60fps+ while I am monitor capped at 60Hz[/quote] in one of the other forum posts, i showed that to GET 60FPS @ 1080p @ full detail, running current games, you need either GTX590, or a HD6990. I'm partial to Nvidia gear, for reason's mentioned above. But that's just my personal preference. i go with what's available right now, not what might be available in the furture. [quote=SpongeBobble]2. This card requires a SSD which I don't want to get yet...wait for the price to come down and issues to be sorted out.[/quote] ummm.. What? the Video card needs an SSD? no. the motherboard needs an SSD? no, only if you want to run that caching thingy. [quote=SpongeBobble]What does ASUS P8Z68-V Motherboard B3 - $229 have that Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3R-B3 Motherboard - $189.00 does not have? [/quote] a $40 asus sticker? i dont know. probably nothing. i like Asus over gigabyte. All the gigabyte stuff i've owend has had something that i've hated. *shrugg*

$2000 Build

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:12:49 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]However rotel is wrong about the CUDA part as Open CL is AMD's equivalent and should be patched into Adobe products once its smooth[/quote] ok, fair enough, but when's that? Adobe's JUST released 5.5, which admitedly is updates to oonly a hand full of the software that in the CS packages, but there's not mention of OpenCL compatability. It's all well and good to say that it will be better once it comes out, but when will that be? Cuda's basically C+ so shouldn't be hard to code to. Considering that this IS ATI/AMD second attempt at physic programing, and they are just falling back to an Open Source standard... *shrug* Honestly, if in the not to distant future, AMD get this to work, than awesome. [quote=Chris.Lampard]GTX590 isn't as good as the HD6990 which is $200 less i have read alot of benchmarks and the GTX590 is a flop as far as im concerned as i am the gaming editor and it is outperformed just about every benchmark by the HD6990.[/quote] ok, i went to that xbit link you have @ the bottom of you post, and the differences are either within margin of error, or within driver optimisation. So as drivers get released than this margin will disappear. THAT said, Chris is right, from an gaming point of view, the HD6990 is the better card for the $$$$ it's as fast, give or take, depending on the game you play, but cheaper. IF you plan to run a second thou, the HD 6990 in xfire isn't anyware near as fast, as 2x 590's in SLI. [b][i] edit - hey, i just checked, the price difference is now ONLY $40. not $200.[/i][/b]

$2000 Build

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:32:07 GMT

This is what i'd do... CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced with Window = $125 Intel Core i7 2600K = $320 Prolimatech SuperMega + 2x Zalman 12cm fans = $105 a HD6990 or GTX590 = ~$830 2x WD 1tb Caviar Black RAID 0 @ $95ea = 190 Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 = $105 Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD5-B3 Motherboard = $315 Lite-On iHBS212 12x Blu-Ray Disc Writer with LightScribe = $119 Silverstone Strider Plus 1000W ST1000-PLUS = $209 total $2318 Little bit of a compromise over Chris's build, but a little more "cost effective"? AS the current overclock methodolgy is to increase the CPU's Multiplier, not the FSB speed, you dont usually change the speed of the ram. changing it makes very little difference to the system, higher than 1600mhz isn't required for a Sandy Bridge system. Also, the difference between the UD5 and UD7, apart from the price, is the NF200 chip used for the extra video card slots, and better SLI. Seeing as this is spec'd for only 1 video card, there's no need. If you plan to run more card in the future, then spending the extra $70 is worth it Looks like the same power rail setup and MOSFET cooling, so you should get the same sort of stable OC.

$2000 Build

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:38:58 GMT

[quote=SpongeBobble]I've read that WoW, MW2 and 3 and BF2BC2 will work better on NVIDIA cards. How much better will they work on NVIDIA cards in terms of fps at max settings over an AMD card? All these games use DirectX11 if I remember correctly. [/quote] NONE of these games are directX 11. they are all console ports and DX9.0C, (OK, WOW's not a port, but i'm pretty sure it's not DX11 either, can't be bothered looking it up.) ACUTALLY, i think WOW is, but most ppl run in DX9, as it's faster, and it only makes the water look better..... it's been a while since i playd WOW [i][b]EDIT - ok, it HAS been a long time since i played BC2, and yes, you can force it into DX11 mode, but it doesn't make it look all that much better, just slower. unless texture mapping's been updated in a patch somewere. Same with WOW, DX11 is available as of Cataclysm, but i'm not sure how many ppl actually use it in game[/b][/i] there are actually very few games out there that are DX11. even Crysis 2 and Protal 2 are dx9c only games WHEN the new consoles get released, there will be more DX11 games out there. and that's the thing... TECHINALLY DX11 should be DX9 fast, and DX10 pretty. Honestly, the CORE Of the system you are build has been outline, aside from the hard drive and memory setup, chris and mine machine's are the same. hell i was feeling lazy, and i cut/pasted chris's build, and changed stuff. [i]Option 2? [/i]IF you think you wanna wait, then get a single GTX560ti,(regardless of the brand/OC. the gigabyte Super Overclock IS the fastest out there, but it's also the most expensive. maybe not worth the effect here?), and then a GTX6xx card when it comes out, and u can re-use the GTX560 for a Physix card.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:47:05 GMT

ok, same system that's been recomended to spongebobble elsewere on the forum, with some minor changes - CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced with Window = $125 Intel Core i7 2600K = $320 Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro CPU Cooler = $49 a HD6990 or GTX590 = ~$830 2x WD 1tb Caviar Black RAID 0 @ $95ea = 190 Corsair CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 = $105 Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 Motherboard = $159 Lite-On iHBS212 12x Blu-Ray Disc Writer with LightScribe = $119 Silverstone Strider Plus 1000W ST1000-PLUS = $209 total $2106 Seeing as the HD6990 and GTX590 are BASICALLY the same price, (the HD6990 is atouch cheaper), then it's up to you which one. you could bring it to about $2000 even if you go a 2500K over the 2600K, as in games, overclocked, they'd have simular performance, (real world diffences would in 1 or 2 FPS in a game)

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:43:06 GMT

ok, a recent article @ Toms hardware reviewing the new 990FX chipset from AMD, that supports SLI. About time i recon... [url=http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/990fx-sli-am3,2953.html]Click here to read article[/url] AND it confirmes what i was saying that you DONT need a i7 K chip for a gaming system, and the 2400 will be more then enough to feed a high end video card They compaired a i5 2400 @ 3.1ghz on an Asus P8Z68-V Pro board, and a phenom x4 980 Black ed, @ 3.7ghz on the new Asus Sabertooth 990FX board. both running a pair of GTX570's in SLI running custom drivers, (what they mean by that, i don't know.) anyway, the system shown here are @ 1080p, are consistantly running 90-100FPS in Lost planet 2, (DX11, 4xAA/0xAF) and 50-65fps in metro 2033, (DX11 4xAA/16xAF), 115-167fps in BF:BC2, (DX11, 8xMSaa, 16xAF) I think that kinda proves my point...

Sub $500 PC

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 12:18:39 GMT

THat's pretty decent. for the same $$$ thou you could pretty much build a system running a X6 1055 using that J&W MINIX 890GX-USB3 Mini-ITX Motherboard u'd just need to change the memory to sodim... extra $50 odd... and it's a shame its hard to find in AUST, but the Silverstone LC05 case is trick :) would look awesome mounted to a wall beside a mounted TV.

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 12:50:36 GMT

MY arguement is that no, gamers dont want to modify their systems. A select few like you and me want to do what we do, overclock, or custom modify their systems... typically, doesn't a gamer has a very limited budget, or a console. seeing as all games these day's are available on 3 out of 4 platforms... out of ALL the ppl i LAN with, aside from me, only one's decided to overclock his system, and this system is a +2yr old 1366 920 system. and i can't ever remember the reason why he bothered now... hell, the rest only update their drivers when there's a problem, or the new game they have just bought recomends it. You are right, the difference between an i5 2500K and a 2400 is neglagable. If you can't find the extra $33, then there's somthing wrong. BUT you still need to spend an xtra $50-100 in cooling to make a decent OC stable, to gain 10FPS maybe? the extra $100 would have been better spent on the next video card up from what you bought, as typically, that gains you 20-30fps... besides, i was seeing all the builds that were getting recomended recently ONLY offering a i7 2600K. There's no point there... anyway... gave up recomending to those 2. they were looking @ part prices, not the system as a whole. and they REALLY aren't taking our advice.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 14:16:19 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]guess I thought i needed 60fps because I thought the human eye can sense 60fps. I didn't know that it only refreshes at 35-40[/quote] ok, the eye will capture 24 images a second, more acurately, the brain can process 24 images a second. The eye can see more than that. so, if you have a system that only renders 30FPS, and you look @ the screen 1/2 throu the refresh, (so the top 1/2 of the screen is the current frame, the bottom is the fram before), then you'll see shear. soo here's the thing. if you decide to move the mouse, during a re-draw, then this shear will be very pronounced, or there will be a small delay in what you see, and what you should see. LAG. It's obviously not so bad if you are watching a movie. so the faster the refresh - 1) the more likely you are to be looking @ a screen with a complete image, as per above 2) the more likely that moving the mouse will seem more instantanious. obviously, in WOW this isn't THAT big a deal. Infact, FPS in WOW is more server and net connection dependant, as, (well, when i was playing it), the net code dictated that packet processing took priority over screen rendering, so the longer it takes to server to process all the packets, the slower the screen refresh. but games like BC2 and COD this is pretty important and, next time you go to JB, check out the 60, 100, 200hz screens. if you can't see the difference in just how smooth the motion is in the 100, and 200hz screens, then it really doesn't matter what video card you end up getting... oh, and 120hz screens that are 3D, in 3D you will only see the equiv of 60hz. [quote=Fridge Magnet]These are the 460/550/450 cards I found. Can you rate them?[/quote] Tomshardware.com has a best-bang-for-buck list which is pretty up to date, and a quaterly comparison chart that'll give you an idea of the performance, and the difference between brands will come down the personal preference. What ever you end up buying above, you'll be able to re-use as a physix card if you wish. Also, there's a BIG difference in perfomance between SE and non SE card. the SE card will be slower. There is also a bit perfomance difference between 560 and 550 cards. might be worth looking @ the new NON TI cards that are coming out, if you wanna keep the card purchase to a budget STILL stand by, you dont need an i7, and you should get te i5 and spend more on you're video card.

$2000 Build

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 19:42:52 GMT

[quote=SpongeBobble]I meant to say was if I'm going to include a GTX 590 or HD6990 in a build, I may as well include an SSD to justify the huge gfx cost[/quote] Why? the video card makes the single biggest difference in a gaming rig. i mean, the difference between a GTX580 and a GTX590 is, what, $200, but it's 2x the frame rate in games? If you were building a drag car, would you spend money on 22inch chrome rims to justify the cost of that big engine? (This is the best analogy i could come up with .... Sorry) IF you were to buy to CPU's that were $200 difference in price, in games, the difference would only be 10-15 FPS. THAT said, The last to generations of video cards, at the high end, haven't been much if ANY faster than it's predecessor. The difference between a GTX280 and a GTX480 was DX11 support, and a GTX580 was alittle faster and a little cooler. ATI's 5870 was/is an awesome card, BUT the 6870 on release WAS SLOWER. they had to release a 6970, which isn't much faster then the 5870 is it? i mean, the mid range ATI/AMD card to buy is STILL the 5770 isn't it? I've ACTUALLY gone back to my pair of GTX275's as they play Crisis 2 faster then my pair of GTX465's, AND run sunstantially cooler IF anything, the next gen of video cores, with the smaller process, will be cheaper only due to the fact that they'll be able to get alot more cores per slice of silicon, and once they have perfected the process, they'll get faster, (they'll start packing more texel units into the same size core they are using now). You know, i just did a quick google search, and it looks like the 7000 AMD video cards MIGHT be hear for xmas, and the nvidia cards MIGHT be hear in 12 months. And i was right, they are talking about JUST a DIE shrink. so if we're lucky the cards will be cheaper or cooler offering the same performance. I wouldn't wait

$2000 Build

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 19:53:34 GMT

AND this whole, you need a superfast CPU so it doesn't be come a bottle kneck and slow down the performance, thing USUALLY only manifests when you are running low resolutions and low detail levels. WHICH you're not.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 20:03:56 GMT

ok, i only Really JUST read this competely.... been @ in-laws... anyway [quote=Fridge Magnet]Are these better than the integrated graphics for some gaming at 1080p? I was thinking of getting one of these until the new AMD and nVidia cards come out because i've read that they going to be awesome!![/quote] Yes they are, but i dont know if they are what you want either. Do you realize that these new chipset are like [i]6 to 12 months away[/i]? [quote=Fridge Magnet]Lol I'm checking on ebay too for cheap cards that may tide me over until the new cards get released. Is a Palit Nvidia Geforce 8800 GTX 768MB PCI-E Video Card worth it $40 and 20$ for shipping.[/quote] no, it's about the same performance as a GT240, which you can buy new for about the same $$$ and will use heaps more power, and produce alot more heat [quote=Fridge Magnet]By the way I'm using a 8400GS so you can see why I'm so desperate for Video mode ultra in WoW lol. [/quote] THAT's about the same performance as the HD3000 video for games i think you'll find

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Sun, 19 Jun 2011 20:29:52 GMT

ok, here's one for you... :) for S#!t's and giggles, i installed Crysis 2 on my i3 2100 running a GT430 video card, and @ "Gamer" system setting, and 1920x1200, (i have a true 24inch 16:10 screen), i get 10-20FPS BUT my cpu DIDN'T get pushed anymore then 50% at anyone time. IF I have time to pull this system apart, i'll run it with my 2x GTX275's Using these to cards, in my QX9650, i get between 100-200FPS in hardcore mode. HOPEFully that'll give you an idea how pooh all those cards you were looking at really are

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 15:41:28 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]Isn't 6-12 months for the next GFX series a conservative guess?[/quote] WEEeelll, i was looking up the release dates and there was nothing confirmed, but was reading here and there that it's going to be Q4 2011, (read xmas), for the HD7xxx and some in 2012 for the new nvidia cards. (so read mid 2012 to xmas) Seriously thou, your current system's not bad... Y not Overclock it, upgrade the PSU, (that you can re-use), upgrade the video card, up to you to what, remembering that you can re-use it in your next build. Overclocking you're current system would be easy too. you buy this - CoolerMaster Hyper TX3 - $25 Arctic cooling MX4 - $9 <- worth having, it'll make a 2-3degC difference over the coolermaster stuff Corsair TX-850 V2 Power Supply - $179 <-remember this will be reused in your next system and a video card... that's up to you. Whatever your budget will allow, with the more you spend the faster the system. i hope we've given you enought advice to keep you out of trouble here to OC you're current computer, you increase the Front Side Bus speed. depending on you're board, will depend what this looks like, but you'll either get the base MHZ, or the quad pump MHZ. meaning it'll either show a FSB of 200mhz or 800mhz as an EG. and i'm guessing that that CPU should be a Q6600. make sure you know were the Clear CMOS is, and how to use it, and write down all the setting in your BIOS so you can enter them in if you have to reset the BIOS. up the FSB, in say increments of 10, then boot into windows. if you get a blue screen, pull it back 5mhz, and it should post, and that's your OC. if it doesn't post @ all, pull it back 10, and you should boot fine. To get it to boot into the BIOS to make that change, you'll have to reset it. unless you board is OC freindly, then pumping the power button a few times, turning it off @ the wall, then powering it up should make it post, with a Overclocking error, and it will reset the FSB of the CPU. then download a program called coretemp, and this will display the CPU's temp as per each core. underload you dont want your system to be more then about 75degC. if it is, pull some of the MHZ out of it. this will give you a conservative OC. there are other tricks you can do to increase the clock speed, like change the timings in the memory, or add voltage, but as a novice, i wouldn't recomend this. you can blow boards and CPUs if you get it wrong. most of the ppl that i lan with have the same CPU, and a simular board, and i know 1 runs a 4870, (@ least i know it's a high end HD4xxx card), and it's more that fast enought to play the games we play, and he's an avid COD, MW, and BC2 player.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 15:53:45 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]system sounds similar to my old beast[/quote] ehehehe.... i really didn't read your post all the way though, i just gave the same advice :) soooo tired... driving over 6 hours this weekend to and from the inlaws, and will have to do it again this week, wife's gran passed away last nite, (like hours after we left), god bless her. soooo need a holiday. [quote=Chris.Lampard] an SSD to bring it up to speed in general [/quote] Just built a design machine for one of the boys working for the other company that the boss has ties to, and built it with a 60gb OCZ Agi 3. DAMN that things fast... it takes more time to POST then it does to load onto the desk top. i take back all the, dont spend the $$$... i want one now! Bang for buck break down would be - it's 3x the price of the cheapest HDD, 8x smaller, but 10-15x faster.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Tue, 21 Jun 2011 12:15:47 GMT

Thanx man, mauch apprciated. lan, i don know, USUALLY we do it over long weekend which sux, as there is no more this year till xmas, and get about a dozen ppl. next time we have one will let you know. i'm sure we'll have one before then thou :)

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Fri, 10 Jun 2011 16:22:39 GMT

ok, chris, you really need to learn how to use a full stop and a comma. That last para almost makes no sence. [quote=rogue316]He cant OC it because Intel are a scummy company that just want you to spend more money with them... Is that correct? LMAO because it's what I think. lol [/quote] THAT was what i was getting @ with the post. looks like Intel's decided to be painful, (couldn't think of a better politically correct way to say that), and making you by the K series chips. Bastards. ANYwho... THIS was an experiment, and i was seeing if you guys had some input. I Had access to the 2x CPUs, (g620 and the i3 2100), and 2 boards, (the Z68 board i have here, and an Asus P8H61-M), to see if, like ALL other CPU as so far, the first handfull of chips to hit the market are usually quite OC able, and get locked down eventually. The g620 and the H61 board are for an upgrade for a client i'm doing this weekend [quote=Chris.Lampard]also this shows how much a little extra research pays off if rotel had done it then he wouldn't have a useless Gigabyte mobo laying around now[/quote] There wasn't any research... i guess what i did WAS the research. BTW the motherboard detects to type of Chip installed, and unlocks the feature to the CPU. I actually went back and read through the manual, (shock horror), after i posted the above, and with a K chip installed, a bunch of new features apear. They aren't even grey'd out, they just Aren't there. when i get the 2500K that is destined for this build, it'll fine. The only thing that MIGHT limit the OC is the power rails, it's only a 6 rail board, sothat MIGHT be an issue. but probably not. might have to mod the board a little to incease the cooling on the MOSFETs OH, and i tried changing the mulitplier, and uping the FSB, (or BLCK or whatever they call it now), and it didn't make a difference. but regardless - set to 105, post, set to 108 no post. This board's acutally not tooo bad as boards go for the $155 that was paid for it. my only real gripe is the CPU socket is a little close to the memory slots. the Zalman 7500 i'm running on this fouls the 4 slot. that'd be OK if you're using low profile memory, but the geil stuff i'm using is is a little tall. (come to think of it, i can't seem to remember seeing low profile DDR3 in my travels....) would limit you're HSF choice. [quote=Chris.Lampard]any budget over the $1500 mark should pretty much include a Intel i5 2500K as minimum well that would be a good standard to start at, always easier to whack another gfx card in rather than a new cpu that's a whole process.[/quote] why? for the every day punter, i recon a i5 2400 would be ample for a gaming system, and you dont need an expensive board. the everyday punter's not going to OC the system. Why not use a H61 chipset system, with an i5 2400, and get a 6990 or GTX590. i can't see a reason why you'd need a better m/b and CPU to feed either of these cards... I DO plan to see just how much slower, (if it is), this i3 is to my QX9650, (@ 4ghz) in games, as soon as i get this case painted. i'll run them side by side with a GTX275 in each, Just to see if $100 CPU can stack up to a $1300 CPU, back-in-the-day. (currently the system's in a 1/2 height case, that obviously doesn't let me run the 275's)

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Sat, 11 Jun 2011 12:01:19 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Rotel if grammar bothers you that much ill edit it for you :P just lemme know [/quote] i mean no disrespect my friend, i just had to read that para like 4 times before it made complete sense. :P No, don't edit it, it was a friendly jib. [quote=Chris.Lampard]Man you are asking why a gaming rig should include a K series chip are you serious ? lol let me see gamer's tend to be the people who want to OC or are looking into it selling them or designing them a system that limits those restrictions then gives them no room to learn.[/quote] ok, i guess there is a big difference between a gamer, and a punter that wants a PC to play games. you and me will want to push the most FSP out of a box with the minimul outlay, or at least minimal wasted $$$ when we upgrade. upgrades for us, well, for me anyway back when i had time to play games more and could justify it, are every 6 months. from the last few systems we've been helping ppl setup, they have been wanting a system that will last them 3yrs. we both know that's impossible. Espeically that guy that wanted a video card that will pump out 60fps @ full detail into 1080p. for like no $$$ The only way to build a system like that IS to buy the $1300 X class 1366 CPU, the 6990, the stupid board, and spend $5000 on it. cas in point, my "old" qx9650 775 system, @ out last LAN, benchmarked faster then anything else there, including 2 i7's. My system would be, technically 3-4yrs old. So i was trying to point out a the PRO's for an "upgrade path" system build, and was trying to find a CPU that you could use in the interum. you buy the Z68 board, you buy the high end video card, you buy the big PSU that will run the uber system once the funds are again available, you get the good case, but you buy the entry level CPU and upgrade that later. Then you get the Cooler to OC the system, extra fans for the case....

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Sat, 11 Jun 2011 12:06:53 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Just got the July mag see how you meant your build was very similar to mine he he, just a few differences here and there[/quote] oh yeah, i actually wrote that in like april... it takes soooo long to get print onto the shelves :) should really go buy that

Z68 and Overclocking non K s/1155

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 21:41:41 GMT

OK, so i'm slowly aquiring the gear i need to build my uber mini LAN box, and i've found something Very interesting. In year's gone by, you'd overclock a CPU by incresing the CPU's FSB speed, or the base clock speed. Currently, 2xxx i core CPU's have a bas clock of 100mhz, and a very high multiplier. with a K series CPU, the multiplier is unlocked, and you OC by increasing that. but you all know this "back in the day" the point of overclocking a system wasn't to buy an expensive CPU, and make it as fast as you can, but to clock up a CHEAP cpu to the same spec as a more expensive one. some of my best OC's have been with sub $150 CPU's. This usually requires high end motherboard, and other higher end equipment, but when building to a budget, i would buy the good OC board, the super awesome Video card, and the entry level CPU, that i've spent ages looking for the right build date, to get the best Overclock. Even the s/1156 had it's un-sung hero, the G6950. This thing wasn't even clased as an i cored CPU, but it would overclock to just shy of 4.7ghz air cooled, WITH the crappy boards. Not bad for a sub $100 2.8ghz dual core. Real world performance was about the same as an i7 870 stock. so that's $200+ worth of processing for nothing. not so anymore it seems. I bought the new Gigabyte Z68MA-D2H board, (remember, i need a m-atx to fit my build, limiting me to currenlty this board, and a MSI, and i didn't like the MSI layout). Admittedly this is the cheapest Z68 on the market, so it DOES have limited OC abilty, but in essence, all i need to do is change the voltage and FSB right? negatory! I can SQUEAZE 3.25ghz out of my i3 2100, which is 3.1ghz stock, and THAT required a bump in voltage, AND running a video card, negating the GPU on the chip. NOW i managed to get 1450mhz out of the GPU on a different board, and i had it forced to sit @ 1100, so it SHOULDn't be that. I also have the equive of the above CPU i mention, the G620, but that wont OC @ all. I thought it might be the ram, but @ the current OC, i'm getting 1680mhz stable, out of $60 Geil ram, rated @ 1500mhz. recon i can get 2000mhz out of this ram, but i dont see the point ATM. So, question, has anyone bothered OC'ing a non K chip, and i'm just epic failing? AM i barking up the wrong tree here? OR has intel FINALLY decided that they are going to pro-actively lock down the OC on their budget chips, with the K's as smoke screen for ppl like me to no complain about the this fact? i will get a 2500K, but not until the rest of the system is complete. last piece of the puzzle.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 11:01:36 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard] if you start talking SLI/Xfire as the Xfire smashes the SLI setup especially with 6 series AMD gpu's.[/quote] WHAT? umm, no, xfire doesn't scale as well as SLI. SLI you will usually get almost 1:1 performance dependant on the number of cards. eg, in a 2way SLI setup, 1 card will render the top 1/2 of the screen, the other car will render the bottom. If the top half takes less to render, (say, it's mostly blue sky), then it will increase the amount of screen it's rendering, redistubuting the load off card 2. in xfire, the performance mode - Card 1 will render the old lines, and card 2 will render the even lines. no real scaling. the one thing that AMD/ATI has always had going for it is image quailty. their Z buffer algorithms, (FSAA and AA), has always been better than nvidia, and upscaling video.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 11:39:33 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]Will the flashed 6950 allow 60fps average or higher with max settings?[/quote] that's impossible to say. as new gaming engines get developed, faster and faster video cards are required. What's available TODAY, sure, Toms-hardware site, Alien vs Predator 1920x1080, (1080P), 4xMSAA, 16xAF, SSAO - GTX580 - 47FPS HD6970 - 42FPS GTX570 - 41FPS GTX560Ti - 38FPS Metro 2033 1920x1080, (1080P), 4xMSAA, 16xAF - GTX580 - 36.5FPS HD6970 - 33.5FPS GTX570 - 32.5FPS GTX560Ti - 29FPS As you can see, @ full detail levels, @ the res you're asking for, it's not possible to give you 60FPS with a $300 card. [quote=Fridge Magnet]Is the HD6950 card Chris is talking about a reference card? What is a reference card anyway??[/quote] ATI and nvidia dont sell cards to the general public. It's a bad idea, so you'll upset, (for lack of a better word), their resellers. why would you buy a Gigabyte card, if you can buy a nvidia one for less? and what would the point be of nvidia selling a card for more if you can get a giabyte one for less, as an example. they DO make cards thou, these cards are called refence cards, and and resold by "no-name"manufacturers usually. on the other hand, TIER 1, or TOP TIER companies get access to the chip designs first, and have the option of making and modifiying the board layouts. for example - before AMD took over the brand, all ATI Reference boards were RED, Sapphire made cards were BLUE, and Asus one's were usually BLACK. So, if you bought, say, an Palit card, and 1 had a blue PCB, and the other had a RED one, one was a sapphire card, one was a refence card. They speak above of "reference cards", as modified cards may have different power rails, memory, or cooling, which will either not work @ all with the update, (due to different memory), or over stress the card, (as the power rail doesn't supply enough power to run the card with the extra pipe's enabled) They do this to save money. remember, @ the end of the day, flash updating, and running the card out of spec will void your warrany if something goes wrong. Which answers this question - [quote=Fridge Magnet]Finally although it seems great for consumers, why the hell would AMD allow flashing? Wouldn't it cannibalise on their HD6970 card sales????? Is flashing reliable? Can you flash 2 and then CrossfireX them and then expect them to run stably?[/quote] A) a novice shouldn't modify their gear. When you screw up, (not if, when *grin*), no warranty for you B) a Novice wouldn't think to look this up, or even try this, usally, so sale aren't effected. Also, nVidia cards have Physix acceleration, which AMD/ATI do not have. If the games you plan to play have a physix or Havoc aspect, then they will run faster on the nvidia card. The CPU will have to do the physics calculations, over the video card. GPU's handle these sort of calc's better then a CPU. OH, and USUALLY, video cards with extra memory, all things being equal, dont make a lick of difference. That said, to sell them, manufacturers will usually increase the MHZ of the memory and the GPU to make the cards a little faster. very few games ACTUALLY require more then 512mb memory on the video card for textures.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 21:13:30 GMT

he said this - "CoD: MW3 and BF2 hopefully too." My last post was bascially saying he WONT be able to do that @ super high detail, @ 1080P as per requested, with ANY of the cards we have been discusing, (without running xfire or SLI) depending on what i'm playing, i usually run @ minimal detail, to get better FPS. the bad guys' still the bad guy, regardles how goog they look. my last AMT/ATI outing was a pair of 5770's. nothing but trouble. hated them. replaced with a pair of GTX465's. WAS Planing on getting a third, but they were discontinued like the week i bought mine, and i couldn't get another matching ASUS card. anyway... I THINK you need to rethink your expectations, or your budget. i dont know you're fiscal situation, but if you are planing to build a system, and in 6-12months buy a second matching card, forget it. in my travels, you wont be able to get the matching card, and you'll end up just replacing it. This is what i dont understand, in games, the CPU doesn't do as much as you think. if you building a gaming machine, the Video card is the MOST IMPORTANT part. I spec'd a machine in another post that, for the budget managed to include a GTX580, but swaped the i72600k, for a i5 2500k. Overclock both chips, and you very close to the same perfomance, and the money saved will let you get the faster video card, making a system that is definately faster in games. The difference between motherboard or CPU levels in gaming performance can be factored in 1 or 2 FPS The difference between videocard levels in gaming performance can be factored in 20 or 30 FPS

New Rig

Fri, 27 May 2011 15:11:45 GMT

[quote=Tony Grooby]What was the strange thing i dint have to activate Windows 7 that i insatlled on my laptop and then 12 mothlater installed on my PC ( compleatly different hardware Laptop core 2 duo PC core i5 ) [/quote] i thought i covered that on the 2nd line on my last post ... :) [quote=Tony Grooby]I still didnt have to activate Windows 7.[/quote] .... you didn't have to call up and get a code? or you didn't have to push the Activate online button after you re-installed it? i'm talking about the former. [quote=Tony Grooby]Just Replace My single OS/App drive with 2 Western digital Blue Edition in raid 0[/quote] but did you Ghost the install that was on the seagate 1tb? or do a fresh installation? i ghosted the install off my laptop's SSD drive onto a 200gb 7200RPM drive, 32gb isn't enough for anything really, and it's been working flawlessly for the last 12 months, and it took like 30 mins to complete the ghost? no setup, installing fresh software, didn't lose data... :)

24" or 27" LED monitor?

Mon, 30 May 2011 19:35:51 GMT

hey, sorry in advance of the novel i'm about the probably right, but i am going to try and reply to 2 forum's @ once here, this one, and the one about the machine you're buildin. [quote=EvilChickenMonkey]Don't get a 27" with a resolution of 1920x1080. Text will be near impossible to read. Around 2560 x 1440 is good. [/quote] OK, that makes no sense. @ 27", 1920x1080, (1080p), the pixels will be bigger then on a 24" @ the same res. bigger pixel= bigger text, so wouldn't that be easier to read? the sony viao Z1 runs a screen that's 1920x1080 on a 13.3inch pannel. THAT'S near impossible to read. i surf the web on my media box al the time, and that's 1080p res on my 50inch plasma, and it looks perfect. [quote=fridge magnet]Not sure if BenQ and Samsung are good monitor brands. Friend said Chimei are good but I haven't checked them out. I'm using an ASUS 20" right now and it hasn't failed me yet. (after 4 years). I've heard ViewSonic are quite good.[/quote] typical consumer range, Samsung are the best, then LG, asus, benq, dell, then pretty much everything else. Chimei, AOC, viewsonic, and every other no-name brand screen you come across will comeout the of the AUOptronics factory. Well that was how it was 6-7yrs ago when chimei first hit the country, and the sales rep was getting us to sell the screens @ Gamedude. edit - Acutally, no, that's not completely correct. 90% of all LCD pannels, (this is just the LCD, not the backlight, the electonix.... you get the idea), come out of 1 factory. if it's still AUoptonics, i couldn't say. Mitsubishi, samsung, Hitachi, Phillips and NEC make professonal grade screens, so they are more expensive. mitsu and NEC still make their some of their own screens, and until recently, so did Samsung, which now hand pick AUOp. screens. I have a 24inch 1920x1200 AOC screen, which i plan to replace soon. it's going to be a samsumg, (or my 32inch sony.... if i can talk my wife into that *grin*) Big deal on the webcam BTW. USUALLY the ones embedded are crap. you're better of getting someone to get for you for you're b/day or xmas a microsoft 720HD, or a logitech 9000 cam [quote=fridge magent]The depth of my desk from the back to the side closest to me with the keyboard tray out is approx 85cm - 90cm. Will a 24" and 27" be able to viewed from a distance of say 85cm to 1m?[/quote] Worst case, you can mount the screen to the wall. Wall mounts for this would be around the $30-40, or $100-120 if you want on a gimble. [quote=fridge magnet]Also will a 2GB gfx card make any difference over a 1GB gfx card for a 1080p res at 27". I'd like to play WoW on video mode ultra and perhaps later on I might dabble in MW3, BF3 and Mass Effect 2. I want to play these on max settings with no lag, I don't know what frame rate would be good (say 60-80 fps)[/quote] not if you're planning to run only 1 screen @ 1080p. if you plan to run 2-3, then you might need the extra ram. [quote=evelchickenmonkey]You're right. I don't know why I wrote that. Still, the higher res gives you more space.[/quote] only just read that :P can't be bother'd doing the quote thing.... hz is something of a remant of the CRT days, were the beam would scan the screen to make the pictures, (bout as technical as i'm going to make that right now ...), but an LCD screen doesn't scan. the pixel's are lit a certain colour until told otherwise. The processor will only except information @ 60hz, so it depends on the electronics behind the screen as much as the LCD screen it's self. Hence even thou you find screen with the same on-paper-spec, like contrast ratio and reponce rate, if you pay $100 more on the samsung, over, say and AOC screen, you'll have a much nicer picture on the samsung, even if they are using the same LCD panel. LED currently refers to the back lighting, not the pixels. OLED screens when they become available will have tiny leds for pixels, (i THINK it's 1 blue, 1 red, 2 green LED's per pixel.) They will be awesome... they exsist, but they cost soo much to make, they aren't available, (as fas as i know), the the general public. and LED screen is still really an LCD screen Contrast Ratio is just the difference between black and white. This usually give no idication on how nice a screen is, as you can make a 50,000:1 contrast ratio with 3colours. these super high ratios are also develop using dynamic backlighting. most cheap screens can't change the back light per pixel, but only in sectors, so if turned on, if you have a really dark image, with a little bit of colour, th backlight will dim, giving you great blacks, but they rest of the image will wash out. you need to find the contrast with dynamic contrast turned off. anything higher then 2000:1 is excelent. Also, if you can find out, the colour bit rate is the 1 thing you want to find to find out how nice the colours are. 8bit will give you (i think this is right), 65K colours, were 10bit will give you 16.7million. or something like that. when 5 an 2 millisecond screens first came out, they only had 65k colours. so the image was horrible. my 6yr old Sony screen that i use for colour artwork is ONLY 16ms screen, but i has true 16.7 million colours. looks substantially better then my AOC and Dell 5ms screens of about 3yr vintage. There is a little motion blur on the sony, but it's only really noticable because its next to my 2ms AOC. the sony cost ME, $499, and i got it cost cos i was staff. Worth every cent. [quote=fridge magnet]Will a AMD Radeon HD5770 run 1980 x 1080at 60fps? I'm weighing up whether to get a $700 system or a $1500 system. If the $700 will only last half as long I'll be better off getting the $1500 system and enjoy the experience.[/quote] No. well, yes, be that depends on the game, and the detail level. I like eye candy, so i'm going to say no. i had to xfire 2 5770's to get 40-60FPS @ 1920x1200 on most of the games i was playin @ the time. COD4 and 5, MW2, and MAYBE Crysis. This was on a i7 1156 system. My current system struggles to play Crisys 2 @ highest detail @ 1920x1200 with a pair of GTX275's in SLi. and this is JUST a DX9 game. (i have 2 many Video cards... i swapped these out for my 2x465's as the 275's are still faster in playing crysis2, due to it being only DX9) you'd really need a GTX 570 or a HD6870 really. I'd buy a $1500 system, and use the 20inch you have. then save for a 32inch LCD TV around Xmas time, when they are floging off all the 2d screens that they need to move before xmas rush. was shopping with my dad the other week, look @ screens, and 200hz sony bravia 2d screens are awesome. sooo clear. and for a 40inch, not tooo expensive. recon boxing day sale, you'll be able to pick one up, if there are any left, sub $1k

Media Centre/Gaming Rig to play Shogun 2

Mon, 30 May 2011 20:35:45 GMT

well, there's 2 thing you could do. a) get a DVI-HDMI adaptor, a sound card that does optical out, and either pipe the sound if you can to your 8800 or run an optical cable to the amp directly from the sound card b) replace the 8800 with something that has HDMI, like a 560ti or a hd6850. each have it's own 71 sound card. use the intel gear, the AMD gear wont cut it. oh, and c), you could sell it all, and build an i5 system.

New Rig

Tue, 31 May 2011 13:55:41 GMT

glad it all worked out in the end. this was your first build yeah? there's sooo many ppl that are asking for advice on their first build... you know have the ability to rebuild the system and make changes to make it better. setup, build, you now know the short comings of the case you used, and can change it if you wish... show it off to more freinds and family, make sure you make some money on the build, sell a few, pays for your system :)

ACTUALLY cost to run a highend PC

Thu, 05 May 2011 18:32:34 GMT

Hey guys, i just had those energy smart ppl out here today, and they gave us this funky monitor that tells us how much power we're using, and what it costs per hour. my OC comp, (which i'm sure i have specs posted here somewere...), running Crysis 2 @ high enough detail to play nice, (using 1 GTX465 for video, one for physx, Farcry we were playing this weeken @ lan don't like SLI, and i dont think i changed it back) costs me 7c per hour to play, and is drawing abot 400watts on the meter. ... SO, it cost me about 80c per hour or so this weekend playing games, (there was 10 of us, plus lights...) so the weekend cost me about $20. cool my wife complained that it was costing too much money to have everyone over, and we can't doo it too often.... i'll collect, what, $2 per person to cover then next time? heheh:) they DID point out something funny thou... our energy company DIDN'T actually check our meter last quater, they "estimated" what we used, and it was our most expensive bill we've ever had, (Again, i'm sure i mentioned how much somewere in the site) now, this time last year, my wife was home with a new born, so, yes, we would have used more power, but we're both back @ work, and we've been, in my mind, trying to save as much power as we can... SO, if they estimate again, we're going to ring and ask them WHAT!? just something i think everyone should know... and something i think we should all take steps to stop. I'd hate to think we, (the community), are paying to much as they are over estimating what we use in power.

Media Centre/Gaming Rig to play Shogun 2

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 13:38:38 GMT

what ever floats your boat i guess. and reg boards - whatever works with the chip socket you have chosen, with features you decide you need, that fits your budget. I'm guessing you're in the UK, so our advice MAY not apply to you... there might be a whole bunch of stuff you can get that we can't...

Has NE1 bought stuff of these guys?

Sat, 04 Jun 2011 12:04:59 GMT

JP Computer Solutions in Ayr. They seem to be one of the few ppl that sell Koolance gear in aust. I am TRYing to get hold of a CPU-370 without spending Stupid money, and a low/profile radiator. Might be able to get the clock from the states, but i've found a rad that might be perfect from these guys @ a nice price. Moding my Silverstone SG-03 case over the next few months for s#!ts and giggles. i have 2x modded Laing DDC pumps incoming, an Alpha cool DDC top res sitting on my desk, which i plan to mod to fit a dual top, (which i still have to decide on), the case will be moded to fit the rad in the front, the pumps should fit in the bottom of the case were one of the HDD's fit, and i just hope there's enough clearence to fit a decent video card. depends on how high the pump/res comb sits. SHOULD be ok. the pumps are very low profile. This case is kinda small :) [url=http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_contents.php?pno=sg03&area=]Click here[/url] if you dont know the case... hopeing to mod/paint if not tomorrow, next weekend, (long weekend).

Has NE1 bought stuff of these guys?

Sat, 04 Jun 2011 12:10:07 GMT

is OK. PC Case Gear has the same Rad for sale @ $49. like $15 cheaper then these guys NEway. so it matters not :)

Intel i7 2600K based system >$1500

Sat, 04 Jun 2011 17:23:49 GMT

get a Z68 chipset board. there are more and more coming out all the time. pick one, google it and read a review. i wouldn't say gigabyte over all else, they are better then they used to be... main stream you wont go wrong with an asus or gigabyte board. my personal fav manufacturer is DFI, but you dont see too many in OZ anymore. to work out how much wattage you'll need for a PSU is easy. wokr out how much your system will draw, and double it. PSU's are most effecient @ 1/2 current draw, so if you were to use - i7CPU - 135w m/board - ~50w HDD + ODD - 20w ea video - 100-450w depending on the card fans - 1-2w Add it all up, double it, and you'll be fine. Brand is up to u, as alot of PSU's are re-badged made-by-someone-else anyway. I like Seasonic PSU, which Cosair are re-badges Kingston make good STABLE ram, thou you will get a better overclock out of gskil or corsair. If you dont plan on overclockin, then it's not that big an issue AND you don't need a 2600K either. if you are going to overclock it, then dont forget the CPU cooler upgrade in your budget. If this is a gaming rig, you'll be better off going an i5 2500K, overclocking that, and spending the extra $100 on the video card, getting a 6850 or gtx570 hell, if you are builing primarily a gaming rig, then - intel i5 2500k - $219 Thermalright Silver Arrow CPU Cooler - $89 Artic cooling MX-4 Thermal Grease - $9 Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3 m/board - $139 Corsair 8gb pack CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 - $119 2x Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB WD10EALX - $59ea TT Element S - $129 Corsair TX-850 V2 Power Supply - $179 Gigabyte GeForce GTX 570 1280MB Overclocked - $369 Total cost - $1370 + Postage. All from PC Case Gear The case and M/board is up to you, but you seem to have a hardon for gigabyte and Thermal take.... soo my built reflected that. That case thing you have wrong thou. The dust will just enter the sides of the door, either building up around the door, or making no difference at all. mesh front might collect dust, but it's easy to clean. If you dont like dust in your computer, dont leave it on the floor, and vacuum the house. my CM690 takes 9-12months to need a clean, and just run the vacuum over the front. not an issue in the case at all. my house = dusty, but case sits on the desk, (behind the monitors, big desk)

Intel i7 2600K based system >$1500

Sun, 05 Jun 2011 10:01:34 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]Sweet build though. How the hell did you figure out compatibility between all components though. I'm so confused.[/quote] i've been doing this for a long time :) [quote=Fridge Magnet]What exactly is an i7 2600k good for then[/quote] i7 = 4 cores, plus hypertheading, which slips each core into 2, given you 8 logical cores, letting you run 8 processing threads @ once. most games are no more than 2 threads, 3 if you run physix on the CPU, (which u will do if you go AMD/ATI), so specifially for gaming, you're better off spendin the money on the video card i5 = 4 core, no hyperthreading. [quote=Fridge Magnet]For the CPU Cooler what about the Thermaltake FrioOCK? Are the Noctua coolers better? Doesn't thermal paste come supplied or is better to get more/another brand?[/quote] From reviews and experience, noctua make pretty much the best air coolers. i have one, that's running a QX9650 @ 4.2ghz, over 3ghz stock, @ ~50degC @ full load. Air cooled, and with it not freakishly loud. [quote=Fridge Magnet]I thought Thermaltake and Gigabyte were good brands but it seems like they all Taiwan or Hong Kong based companies so probably all use the same foundry right[/quote] no. Thermal take comes out of the Xsonic factory, last i looked, (one of the reason i'm not a fan), gigabyte' gigabyte. Seriously, the best gear comes out of taiwan. [quote=Fridge Magnet]Is Corsair the manufacturer or is it SeaSonic? I'd prefer the cheaper one since they are the same[/quote] Seasonic. though i think you'll find that the corsair gear is acutally cheaper. there's a good reason behind that, but i can't be bothered going into it. [quote=Fridge Magnet]Does the Asus Sabertooth have anything that the one you used?[/quote] if you're asking is it better, they should both be on par really. The sabertooth will be a little more rugged, but isn't it like HEAPS more expensive? you will get no to very little performance increase over the spending the money on the sabertooth. you'd better using the $$$ on the CPU of Video card. [quote=Fridge Magnet]Is there any point in getting 16GB? I read some reviews and they said its useless unless you ramdisk (which I wont be doing) or doing insane excel, matlab, computations.[/quote] no. 4gb's enough for a gaming rig, but @ the price, you'd be crzy not to run 8. 16's just silly. [quote=Fridge Magnet]WD > Seagate? Or are they exactly the same; Seagate is cheaper $3 in 1TB HDDs.[/quote] WD fan TEEHEE so the choice is yours. WD's a little faster, Seagate's got a better warranty

Intel i7 2600K based system >$1500

Sun, 05 Jun 2011 10:03:18 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]Is Gainward GeForce GTX 560 Ti 2GB Phantom better than the one you linked?[/quote] no. i linked a GTX570, which is much faster. Memory isn't as important as the GPU is. [quote=Fridge Magnet]Is there any difference between a Radeon HD6850 and 6870; Radeon HD6950 and 6970?[/quote] Yes, each one you listing is fast then the one before. Typically, the first number is the family, the next is the core type, the last number is spec level. @ the end of the day, USUALLY, the bigger the numbers after the first one, (there are instances were the generation of card before is a little faster), the fast the card

$700 value all rounder

Sun, 05 Jun 2011 11:06:25 GMT

That was a big ask, as you're really asking for a decent gaming rig for $800. and i didn't add the CPU cooler for when you decide to overclock it. AMD Phenom II X4 955 BLACK EDITION - 155.00 ASUS M4N98TD-EVO nVidia NForce 980a SLi - 145.00 GEIL TWIN PACK ENHANCE PLUS SERIES TURBO 2x 2gig DDR3 1500Mhz PC3-12000 - 59.00 LG 22x DVD+/-R Burner SATA Model: GH22NS70 - 29.00 Western Digital 1TB 7200rpm SATA3 EALS 32meg Cache CAVIAR BLUE - 64.00 CoolerMaster ELITE 335 BLACK - 59.00 GIGABYTE Superb 550watt - 69.00 GIGABYTE GTX560Ti SUPER OVERCLOCK 1GB - 289.00 total - $869 + Postage Prices from Gamedude computers QLD. if you live in the NSW or VIC, PC Case Gear will be cheaper on postage, and about the same $$$ give or take in PCCG favour I can't thinkg of anything better for the money, and either get the Asus V screen, or a sumsung S24A350H

Has NE1 bought stuff of these guys?

Sun, 05 Jun 2011 12:07:31 GMT

actually, these guys seem heaps cheaper - www.gammods.com.au NE1 bought stuff from them?

Corsair Hydro Series H7 vs Antec KUHLER

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 19:33:30 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]the next step is closed loop water cooling like the H70 and Kuhler 920, then high-end air coolers like the Noctua DH14[/quote] From the reviews i've read, i think you'll find the Noctua coolers cool better @ lower noise levels then the h70 and antec 920, which are both made by the same company, (asetek), and bascially the same cooler. I think the antec is currently shipping with better software. From what i've read, these particular coolers are VERY noisy. I would run/am running a Noctua NH12, and replace the fans with a pair of Zalman ZM-F3's. Also, i don't think i replied to this, but someone, (i think it was bob), asked why i posted thermal grease as a part, when it ship's with a cooler already. not all TIM's are equal, and the MX-2/3 stuff is probably the best for the money, and definately te easiest to get hold of in OZ. There is some micronised Diamond stuff that there that's the shiz, but i've only found one place that has it in stock in OZ and is 3-4x more then the MX-2/3 stuff. it IS better, but not 3x the price better. And Chris, who say's i'm not a gamer!? what i spec'd up before for sub $900 would have easily run current games @ full detail level, in stock state @ 60FPS. using my current system as the yard stick, i get, running Crysis 2 @ full detail 60-100FPS running a pair of GTX275's with my QX9650. The system i spec'd would easily be able to overclock to well above the spec of my machine. and you'd have the overhead to add the extra 560ti i've said this before, games don't require a 6 core CPU.

$2000 Build

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 19:53:51 GMT

one thing that you never mention when you talk about "flash upgradeing" these video card is this voids all warrenties. as soon as you run something out of it's factory spec, or outside it's orginially designed purpose, warrenties are void. Also, CS4+ is only CUDA accellerated, so you'll need nvidia cards. for $2K - intel i5 2500k - $219 EK-KIT H3O Supreme LT 240 - $199 Artic cooling MX-4 Thermal Grease - $9 ASUS P8Z68-V Motherboard B3 - $229 Corsair 8gb pack CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 - $119 2x Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB WD10EALX - $59ea NZXT Phantom Case - $185 Corsair TX-850 V2 Power Supply - $179 Gainward GeForce GTX 590 3GB - $839 total - $2096 + Postage from PCCG the 2500K will OC just as well, (as in, in games, the same FPS), as an i7 2600K, and is ~$100 cheaper, giving you funds to buy that EK cooling kit. without the better cooler, you wont be able to OC as much, so you'd end up with a slower system, for the $$$, with the i7 I haven't had the pleasure of building one with them yet, but from a look @ the instructions, (you can download the PDF if you look hard enuf), it's very easy to follow, and doesn't look too hard :) for ~$2000 someone build a better system, i dare you! :) OH, and i'd get the [i][b]white [/b][/i]Phatom case, and before you ask, you'll need to remove the 200mm fan on the top of the case to fit the RAD. the 12cm fans that ship with the EK kit are VERY good. You'll also need to buy some distiled/de-ionzed water, but that's about it.

Intel i7 2600K based system >$1500

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 20:19:26 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]What do I look for when buying a graphics card? I used to look at the memory and the clock speed; that's all I know :([/quote] i thought i covered that... BUT pick a budget, pick a GPU that's in that budget, then read comparisons on video cards that someone else has done, (Tomshardware), then get they one recomended. [quote=Fridge Magnet]What would be the best build for $2000? This is probably pushing the budget but if its awesome[/quote] what i said above, but with a faster video card. you can add a GTX590 to that system, and all you might need to do is get a more powerful PSU... in fact i used this as an template for the 2k build for spongebobble. i would not recommend the watercooler for u [quote=Fridge Magnet]I have no idea what parts to get. This time no bias towards Tt or Gigabyte lol to make it an even playing field. Is the NZXT case easy to work with?[/quote] i like the NZXT phantom case. i'd go the white one. i'm currently in the process of preping a Silverstone SG-03 case so it's black and white, (will post pics once it's complete, and i'll post a link to a site that i will use to document the build).

$2000 Build

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 20:31:15 GMT

[quote=SpongeBobble]At the moment the I like http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1226&ID=1408#Tab1 but I can't find in Aus.[/quote] The Armour Black, non MX cases are large, heavy, horible cases, that are old by today's standards. They aren't available in Aust anymore as they are expensive to import. the case is steel, and weigh's over 25kg on it's own, before you start add's parts. I had an orginial Armour case a very long time ago, with water cooling gear, and complete setup, it weigh'd in @ close to 60kg. insane the Silver Amour case's are Alloy, and 1/4 the weight. but expensive, and the alloy is very thin. easily bent out of shape. i have/had both. There's also the Coolermaster HAF and Fractal design cases

New rig

Mon, 06 Jun 2011 21:06:27 GMT

Can't see your shopping cart... [quote=SpongeBobble]At the moment figuring out whether to get the Antec Kuhler 920 CPU cooler or the Corsair Hydro Series H7 CPU cooler. Both cost the same. Any thoughts?[/quote] out of THOSE 2, the Antec. from what i've read, the Corsair H60 is almost as good @ cooling but heaps quieter, and if you upgrade the fans, (you can run 2 on that RAD, like the h7), it'll cool better, in theory. you might be better looking @ one of the EK kits i mentioned in another post for you. [quote=SpongeBobble]Is it better to get 4 x 2GB 2000MHz Corsair RAM or 2 x 4GB 2000MHz Corsair RAM. Also what line is the best - the Corsair Vengeance, Kingstons or the GSkills?[/quote] some boards will run better with 2 sticks over 4, and you'll find that Kingston is more stable, gskill is faster, with the Corsair vengence somewere in between. [quote=SpongeBobble]Will the CoolerMaster GX 750W PSU run this system efficiently?[/quote] don't know, can't see what else you're getting [quote=SpongeBobble]Should the case fans + CPU fan be adequate or should I get 2 x 200mm fans + 1 x 120mm fan. Which fans to get?? I like LEDs ha![/quote] ok, 200mm fans move lots of air, but @ low pressure, they are good @ moving the hot air out of a case, but bad @ cooling something specific. case in point, i was running a 14cm Noctua fan on my HSF, and it actually cooled worse than the Zalman 12cm that i had on it orginially @ the same airflow. the 12CM has to move the air @ a greate presure to move the same CFM. the faster moving air "scrub" the heaf off the heatsink. [quote=SpongeBobble]Are Cold Cathode case lights bad and a power drain? How many can this case hold? Are there any other lighting effects available that look awesome?[/quote] EVERYTHING draw's power. but they shouldn't draw that much. maybe 5-10w. ALSO, if you WERE to go the EK kit, you'll be able to add UV reative dye to the water, which you will see in the clear tubs, and get a UV light, and THAT looks trick :P (you get BLUE UV additive with the kit, i think...)

New rig

Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:06:45 GMT

THAT said, the res in a custom setup like the EK kit is like 500ml what is the chance you'll need to top up 500ml of water during the life of the system? i'm a car guy. A computer's not really THAT much different from a car. a normal car requires you to add fuel and get it serviced to keep it running. you need to get power to a PC, and keep drivers up to date, (hopefully, you're still following this analogy) so we build a machine that's overclocked, and custom water cooled, and you have to do a little more maintence, just like a car that you've modified to go faster. When i (FINIALLY), get me car back from getting turbo'd i'm going to have to make sure everything's in perfect order every month. check fluids, filters, oil levels, more then i currently have to do... This is no different to a computer really. you want the most out of the system, with the best overclock, you need a better cooling system, that may mean it needs a bit of maintainence.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:12:56 GMT

.... each gameing house will optimise their engine for a specific video card chipset. i THINK you'll find that WOW runs best on a nvidia card. same with COD and MW. from what i can gather the Gigabyte 560Ti Super Overclock, (specifically), looks more like an underclock 570, then a clocked up 560. just from what i've read, looks like the pick if want a budget card.

Cheapest graphics card to run 1080@60fps

Wed, 08 Jun 2011 18:37:29 GMT

no no, it has to be the super overclock Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Super Overclock 950MHz - $299. There's a big difference between the 2, from wha ti've seen in the tech room @ GD BUT for an extra $50, you can get a gainward GTX570.

New Rig

Thu, 19 May 2011 19:11:40 GMT

ok, fine. AMD Phenom II X6 1055T - $179 ASRock 890GX Extreme4 Motherboard Rev.2 - $159 Kingston ValueRAM KVR1333D3N9K2/8G 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - $95 Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB - $69 CoolerMaster Elite 330 with 420W - $69 Gigabyte GeForce GTS 450 1GB Overclocked - $139 $710 + postage i'd spend the extra 60 over budget.

New Rig

Thu, 19 May 2011 19:43:11 GMT

[quote=Blakew18]I might get 2 x Seagate Barracuda 500GB ST3500413AS and stripe them. Would it be worth it or not?[/quote] i don't know. might not be worth the effort. in theory yes, it's faster. but for all the mucking about... Raid stripe, statisitcally doubles the risk of failiure

New Rig

Mon, 23 May 2011 09:00:41 GMT

hey, i run a 4 way stripe on my gaming rig, so i've quadropled the risk of failure. RAID 0 is the fastest way to setup a system, dont get me wrong, it's just, as this IS a work machine, you have to decide if it's worth the risk. i have this arguement with the boss all the time... but His issue is he forgets that it's RAID 1 for mirror, and 0 for stripe, not the other way round... anyway... and yes, i understand that he has USB3, and backing up = fast! but after a while, he'll stop, or forget, and i'll charge hime $1000's to TRY and retreive his data, and since it's on a RAID stripe array, 99% of it will be fragmented to the point of uselessness. The other option os RAID 5. Stripe with Parity. You get ALMOST the speed of stripe in read, and about normal speed writes, but you can afford to lose an drive from the array. 1 drive only. minimum of 3 drives, and you lose the space of 1 for setup. so you get 1tb out of 3x 500gb, 1.5 out of 4, 2tb out of 5, and so on. Honestly, if it was me, i'd run a RAID 5 out of 1tb Blues.... 2tb rreduntant space. the only issue is that setup is almost 1/2 you'r budget. there are soo many ways to do this... all comes down to the $$$

New Rig

Mon, 23 May 2011 09:07:08 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]so i would suggest maybe backing up weekly to fortnightly at max and after any major changes you make its always a good idea however if you buy a back up program most will do it as you go so there's nearly 0% data loss if it does die on you.[/quote] it's a work machine, i'd back up nightly, and if you wanna buy something to do it, that's AWESOME, Acronis backup for sure. the incremental backup is the best i've seen, (better then windows backup for sure). Use it @ my wifes work, and i've managed to show her how to reteive files from it, walking her via phone. SO it must be easy to use, (glad she doesn't read these forums ) The ISSUE with RAID Stripe is that 1/2 the data lives on 1 drive, and the other on the other. And it's no, if 1 dies i can get 1/2 my data back, no no. i byte of data is made up of 8 bits. bits 1, 3, 5, 7 are stored on drive 1, and 2, 4, 6, 8 and store on drive 2 so if you lose drive 2, you've lost all the even bits that make up the data byte. makes it useless.t

New Rig

Mon, 23 May 2011 16:46:18 GMT

later if you decide to run a raid array, you buy the drives, build the array, and "Ghost" the install on the single drive you have here, to the new array. Worst case, you'll need to activate Windows again, and if it comes to them ACTUALLY getting on the phone and asking why, the correct responce is "the Hard drive failed" they'll give you the activation key every time Good luck with you're build. if you get stuck, post here, i'm sure chris or i will be able to work out a solution to the problem

New Rig

Tue, 24 May 2011 09:15:10 GMT

windows activation is an oddity. you can activate the same key 2-3x within a 24hour window, and you probably wont have call them up. and then anywere between 6 and 12 months later, the key will be pulled from the activated list. one of the major complaints with XP was how hard it was to re-activate if you had to re-install the OS due to legitimate hardware failure. the only issue is re-activation if you change hardware. EG, replace the single drive with a RAID array. Actually, i was thinkin about that after i posted. it probably wont work, as there wont any RAID drivers to run the array on the current install, just normal sata drivers. you could try and build the array, install the drivers for the array controler, and ghost it, but i wouldn't be able to say, yes that will work.

DNS-323 Print Server function stopped

Mon, 23 May 2011 08:46:49 GMT

it's possible that the USB port on the NAS is dead. try pluging another USB device in there, and see if it shows up, (without having any direct contact with this device, i'm assuming it's like the Asus ones, and is a multifunction port, not just a Printer Server port) if it is, i wouldn't replace the NAS, i'd either get a Network attached printer, or a USB print server. Both will be cheaper than replacing the NAS. less hastle too. it is also posible that the printer's USB ports dead. If it is, replace with network attached printer. Obviously, you test the printer by pluging it into you're computer, and see if you can print. and peter's right, if it does work, plug into the machine that's always on, and share it from there. This can either be a solution, (it's how i'm shareing my printer @ home), or a stop gap. up to you. Best thing about just shareing is you can set up Airprint shareing via software, so your Idevice can print, without the need of a crappy HP Printer.

Budget 1080p performance PC

Tue, 24 May 2011 20:54:06 GMT

well, check out the Master Builder Forums. Chris's budget gamer build will fit your bill and budget. All you'd change is maybe the HDD setup. i'd maybe swap out the 2000mhz 4gb set with a say 1333mhz 8gb set. to answer one of your questions, the "faster"memory will only really effect you if you plan to overclock your CPU. the memory will actually run at 1333mhz if you dont overclock. That all said and done, you can't REALLY build a machine that will last you 5-7 years. a) warrenty - best case, you'll get 3 yrs. "Life time" warrenty is only "life time of the product on the market. this is never longer then 3 yrs. Seagate has a 5yr warrenty, but after the first 12months, claiming this will take a long time to complete. you'll end up buying a new one. b) it's impossible to say what will be needed to run software in 5 yrs time. WOW's engine "evolves" everytime there is a patch update. you might spend 2x your budget, and in 3yrs time WOW's engine might not work. All one can do it build the best you can inside you budget by today's standards and hope for the best. working backwards for you questions - Monitor - HDMI, DVI, Displayport - ok, HDMI is basically DVI with Digital audio, and displayport is an expansion of HDMI. if you are buying a monitor, and you get one with HDMI, you'll be able to run an Xbox or PS3 as well. Displayport's poping up on Video cards, pretty much as they require less realestate then a DVI port. new AMD/ATI cards will run up to 6monitors. Sound cards - The onboard sound "will do". i'm a self confessed "audiophile", so i have like a dozen different sound card, Asus DX, D2, Creative XFi cards... and i'm actually looking, (thinking, maybe), Auzentech X-Fi Bravura 7.1 which is basically a highly modified XFi PCI-e card. if you planing to build to a budget, leave it as an upgrade/xmas pressy :) Case - THAT comes to personal preference. i like over the top, or very sedate. The Fractal design cases, Coolermaster CM690 line, silverstone make some great gear, but you pay for it... @ the end of the day, you'll get what you pay for. Is it going to be a LAN box. if it is, get the Silverstone SG-03 case, ($109 @ PCCG). but these type of cases will only run a mATX board. This question is actually pretty hard to answer. PSU - max efficeincy is usually in the middle of the wattage range. So if your systems' going to draw 300 watts, you'll want a 600w PSU. 90+ might be a bit hard in your budget, but 85+ is doable. again, you get what you pay for. I run a Corsair PSU. Graphix card - Again, personal preffernce. i like nVidia for the pure speed. USUALLY they are faster for the money. AMD has decided they can't catch Intel with CPU's so they are focusing on their Video cards. <- direct from a sales rep. for a single card, the 6950 that Chris's build runs would be the go. HDD - i like the Western Digital gear. 500gb Caviar blue's are good for the money. Motherboard and CPU - unlike what alot of ppl on here think, there are no games out there that will make use of more then 4 core's it will mean you can do more while playing wow, (which i believe is single thread anyway, so it will only use one), so most games will run an a 4 core CPU @ a higher clock speed better then a 6 core CPU. i would got a i5 2500. you said you're not overclocking. you dont need the K That said, who know what it will be like in 5 yrs time. you want "ultra Durable" which is a Gigabyte term, but i'm not that big a giabyte fan, (they are making some nice gear now thou, they've really pull their sox up in the last 18 months). anything running solid Cap's will last. if you dont know what they is, look it up :) give you something to do... But if the budget allows, the ASUS Sabertooth P67 Motherboard B3, or Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD5-B3 Motherboard. try this - Intel Core i5 2500 - $209 ASUS Sabertooth P67 Motherboard B3 - $279 4 x Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 4GB (1x4GB, 16gb total) DDR3 $45ea - $180 2x WD 500gb Caviar Blue $45ea - $90 VTX3D Radeon HD6950 1GB - $229 NZXT Phantom Case, (avail of black, white, or red) - $185 Corsair TX-750 V2 Power Supply - $145 LG CH10LS20 10X Blu-ray DVD Combo Drive - $85 Total - $1402 + postage All from PCCaseGear Pretty sure i haven't missed anything, and i've left an upgrade path, (2x Video card/xfire). the Case looks funky, in my eyes, remember, i said i like over the top. but if you dont like it, get something else :)

Budget 1080p performance PC

Tue, 24 May 2011 21:10:28 GMT

ok, forgot the monitor ...opps :) Intel Core i5 2500 - $209 ASUS Sabertooth P67 Motherboard B3 - $279 4 x Corsair CMV4GX3M1A1333C9 4GB (1x4GB, 16gb total) DDR3 $45ea - $180 2x WD 500gb Caviar Blue $45ea - $90 VTX3D Radeon HD6950 1GB - $229 CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced - $115 <- change case... :) Corsair TX-750 V2 Power Supply - $145 LG CH10LS20 10X Blu-ray DVD Combo Drive - $85 Acer V243HLBD 24in Widescreen LED Monitor - $195 Total - $1527 + postage

Budget 1080p performance PC

Tue, 24 May 2011 21:13:19 GMT

[quote=Fridge Magnet]but preferrably a 27" since the price of 27" is now affordable even for people like me with very tight budgets. 1080p full HD is a must. Must be LED lit[/quote] you might be worth looking @ an Actual TV. local JB YO!

Budget 1080p performance PC

Wed, 25 May 2011 08:31:53 GMT

The ram thing - the frequence of the ram is governed by the, (well, what ever they call it now...) Front Side Bus. there's alot of math involved, but usually memory runs @ 1:1 ratio with the FSB. but anyway... without writing, (another), novel, the basic way to look @ this is the "faster" memory is tested to run @ the higher freqs, and specific timings. I OC my ram "Old school". by tightening the timings, (they are the numbers that are listed like CAS 9-9-9-24), and not changing the frequency, i find you get a good responce, without stressing the motherboard. Some board dont handle freq changes well, as they will Change the PCI clock speeds as well, and this makes, say, you're video card unstable. if i had memory that was, say, 2000mhz, 9-9-9-24 T2, i would run it @ 1333 7-6-8-20 T1, as an example, giving me the same bandwidth. (these numbers are fictional... i'd actually have to test and see what the memory is capably of @ the time). The biggest thing is the CAS latency. the first number. The smaller that number the better. it governs alot. BASICALLY it stands for how many Hz it take the ram to do something, and the other numbers are numbers of CAS's to do a given op. i've actually seen examples of memory that is slower in MHZ, but with really tight timings given more bandwidth then more expensive "faster" ram. [quote=Fridge Magnet]WOW!!! You guys responded so FAST!! I was expecting that I'd have to wait a few days for replies.[/quote] i... honestly had nothing better to do *grin* [quote=Fridge Magnet]That build looks awesome pity about the lack of a 27"[/quote] BUT you can get that later, and wont need to crack open the machine to install it... not that big a deal. I run a 24inch, and i wouldn't go bigger. on a desk, you sit pretty close, and bigger's distracting :) [quote=Fridge Magnet]Guys where I can learn your knowledge, share with me!!!!! please :) [/quote] Google. Tomshardware. i've been into computers since the C64 days, so like 25 yrs... and been in the industry for the last 10-12. it's not rocket science really... [quote=Fridge Magnet]I'm such a noob lol. I was quoted a similar system for AUD2450 WTF.[/quote] BUT that dell system's awesome! seriously, you're putting it together, you're taking the irsk of getting it right... if i was building you a machine, and i didn't know you personally, i'd charge you $1000 to spec, build, test, install, benchmark, and deploy a system like that OH, windows, always forget the ops system. Win7 Home premium OEM you can pick up for about $120-130. worth it. Also, the motherboard i spec, the sabertooth. it's an awesome board, and will last, but i would swap it for a Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3R-B3 Motherboard - $199. new chipset, thou not as well made. and $70 cheaper. put it towards screen, or OP system

CPU speeds going to kill PC?

Thu, 26 May 2011 10:25:09 GMT

you didn't give us the too most important values. How hot it was running @ load, and what voltages he's running to keep it stable. USUALLY you bump up the CPU voltages during an overclock. I THINK this is due to electron drift in the silicon @ super high Mhz, and the voltage increase is to compensate. I think that's right... anyway Uping the voltages, induces heat. Heat will kill a CPU, and all electronics really @ the end of the day. Most of these CPU's are not built to handle up to 95-100degC for a short period of time, and the Motherboards are smart enough to shut the machine down if it over heats. as you are running the computer out of spec, VERY our of spec, you can't expect it to last as long as a stock system, but @ the end of the day, it sound's like he's got a decent cooling setup, and it might never be a problem inside the computer's life cycle. (he'll probably upgrade before it becomes an issue) [i]Typically, a current day CPU, should run @ about 5degC above Case ambient, and maybe 20degC above under load. you DOUBLE those temp via OC, and you kinda 1/2 the lifespan of the gear. the Mean Time Before Failure. USUALLY a MTBF is 20-50,000 hours. that's a little more then 2-5yrs.[/i] i've been struggling to get more then 4.1ghz out of my QX9650 CPU. This is completely due to the Motherboard i'm running, (Asus Striker 2 Formula, 780i board). These boards don't overclock well, as the Northbridge can't handle the extra throughput and heat very well. If i could find an X38 or X48 board, it'd be able to push 4.6ghz i recon. AIR cooled, (Noctua NF-12, single Zalman ZM-F3 fan, CM690v1 2x Noctua FLEX 12cm fans in top, 2x Zalman F3's blowing across the mb to try and get some heat out of the NB and SB, 2x GTX275's in SLI), @ 4.1, underload, average temp's are about 55-58 degC. (during a Crysis 2 session, 1 core will pip 60degC, the other 4 hover around the 55 mark), which isn't bad considering, (it's old gear) And it's not THAT loud. with the side off, my iphone SPL ap, measured 43+/- db at about 75cm, which isn't BAD considering the gear. Only reason i know this, i re-built the system last nite, to apply better Thermal Grease. i dont know what was on there, the build was a rush job a few months ago, but applying MX2 properly, (or maybe it's just WINTER), temp's dropped from 70degC underload, to the above. Idle temps haven't changed much, sooo... i dont know. properly applied thermal grease does make a difference... and i haven't even give it time to Cure. Also managed to get an extra 200Mhz stable out of it. (was 3.9ghz, 4ghz used to glitch a little, 4.1 now), thou i managed to get it to post @ 4.6ghz and run for like 4 mins before the NB overheated. Not bad for an "old" s/775

Need Help: Gaming Build

Tue, 10 May 2011 10:41:16 GMT

there are only REALLY 5 parts to a computer Case and PSU, Motherboard, CPU, RAM, HDD, video card. OK 6, CD-ROM/DVD burner. Which you have forgoten now-a-days, you probably wont use that much, so a cheap one will do. Personally i would run a slightly bigger PSU, say a Corsair TX-750, Antec 750 True power, or a ThermalTake Toughpower XT 775 i know they are expensive, but for longevity of the system, it's worth the extra. Personally, i've never skimped on a PSU, and i've never had one fail. AND before you say, "that sounds like overkill" if you decide you wanna run a second 570, you'll need the extra power.

Need Help: Gaming Build

Tue, 10 May 2011 22:48:53 GMT

i'm running a TX950, with 2x GTX465's in SLI, with QX9650 @ 4.1ghz on an ASUS Striker @ Formula board. OH, and 4x 150gb WD Raptors, and a Blueray burner. and i personally think THAT's a little overkill. 850 should be more then enough. to answer your question about what mother board will support a 6970, all current P67, that will take a 2nd video card will be crossfire ready, so will take the 6970 without issue. You have to make sure that the motherboard you are getting specifically states it supports SLI. the chipset will support it, but the manufacturer has to pay for a license for it to be enabled. hence all the cheap boards aren't SLI. also, it looks like the Z68 chipset has just been released, something to look into if you wanna go crazy :)

External HD can't display PC partition.

Wed, 11 May 2011 10:02:41 GMT

you shouldn't have any problems with the FAT32 part showing up on the mac The only limitations for FAT32, (and this isn't limited to macs), is file no bigger then 3.9gb, (depending on how you look @ it, remember, i megabytes 1024bytes, not 1000, and the limitation is 4095mb. which windows will show as about 3.9), no bigger then 2tb, (again, about 1.8 really), partitions, (not your problem obviously), and the volume name must be CAPS and no longer then 11Characters. you might have to mount the drive before you can use it, but i'm not sure how to do that on a mac, (very limited exposure to them), but i'm sure if you google it, it'll give you instructions The other option is there are software you can install that wil let your windows machine read the HFS+ partition that your MAC uses, (MacDrive was mentioned in my quick search), and format the drive to HFS+ completely. (it doesn't work the otherway round, as NTFS is a propriety file system, (so a Windows only sort of thing). the mac should READ the NTFS part, but wont be able to write to it. HFS+ is a linux file format, so by nature open source.)

Need Help: Gaming Build

Thu, 12 May 2011 11:36:27 GMT

[quote=Somedude123]thanks, will that be on the latest APC[/quote] what? you talking about the PSU? the Z68 boards? or my computer? My comp - unlikely Z68 board - Maybe, i don't know. i found, like, yesterday the Gigabyte Z68 board was on the market, (Gamedude website), and i've actually been trying to find a review on it, but there's really been nothing out there... The Z68 chipset release date was the 7th or 8th of May, so it's interesting that boards available in OZ. AND it's wicked. My boss decided yesterday, (hence the searching), he wanted a new desktop machine, and, as an example, windows install, on 2x WD 500 sata 3 Caviar Blues, in RAID Stripe, install from a USB key, took, about 5 mins, (no exageration). Would have taken less had he used my EXT HDD installer too... [quote=Somedude123]Sorry for all the questions since its my first build, don't really want to screw up at all um[/quote] That's ok. At least you have the sence to ask said questions [quote=Somedude123]Um... just wondering is PcCaseGear reliable and safe?[/quote] Chris swears by them. I personally haven't had need to use them, but i will soon enough. and i think they are local to you? more so then to me and chris, in sunny QLD [quote=Somedude123]So Z68 only gives you the ability of OC'ing both CPU and integrated graphics, let you run discrete with integrated running? What is SSD caching?[/quote] H67, P67 and Z68 will let you OC a CPU, and in turn the GPU, BUT the Z68 will let you access the GPU processor to encode/decode media, (movies). On this site somewere there is a comparison when Sandybridge was first released, were they converted to MP4 from an AVI a movie. Stock i5 tooke 2 mins or something, ATI and nVidia excelereated took 1 min, and the GPU we're talkin about took 8 seconds. The downside it that once you add a video card to a system, that GPU on the chip os turned off, so you can't access this accelleration. The Z68 lets you, but only for encoding/decoding. you're not ACTUALLY using it as a graphics card, more a math's co. Would bee cool if someone workes out how to tap into it for physics. SSD caching caches data that you use frequently onto an SSD to make read times faster. kinda really technical to explain, but if you goto[url=http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/z68-express-lucidlogix-virtu-ssd-caching,2888.html] this article in Toms hardware[/url], you should get the idea. ACTUALLY, they have just posted [url=http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-z68-express-smart-response-technology-ssd-caching,2938-2.html]this artcle[/url] which touches on overclocking with therotical OC of 5.7ghz on the K serious chips. Hate to see what you need to use to cool that. The QX9650 chip has been OC'd to over 5.6GHZ, Liquid Nitrogen cooled...

Need Help: Gaming Build

Fri, 13 May 2011 10:26:01 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]we purchased 2pm friday, recieved email at 3.30pm saying item had been shipped, recieved item 10am monday morning, now thats service[/quote] Service? or the guy in the warehouse needed something to do :) Oh, and i was doing some research last nite, and i stumbled over a vid of a korean Overclocking a 990x to 7ghz LN2 cooled. CRAAAZY. CPU was running @ -130degC Sorry, completely off topic

Use keyboard keys for a virtual reality?

Sun, 15 May 2011 09:48:30 GMT

maybe, but it would be very difficult. you CAN use something called a Keywiz, (KEYWIZ40-ST). available from [url=http://www.gamedude.com.au/arcade]Gamedude Arcade[/url] you wire a button to the corisponding point for the key. These things have more cache and a processor for quick responce. better then the controller on a better keyboard. They are used to hook up a computer to an arcade cabinate and buttons. i plan to one day build a racing console, and will use one of these. same site, buttons are cheap for Comp quality buttons, but if you're going all out, the pro comp buttons are only a little more again, (difference is .5million over 1million clicks per buttons) As for movment, why not use something like one of thous Infra-red door sensors. step forwad, you move forward, step left, straf left. get one that paints you standing, and when you crouch, you can... wouldn't be cheap, or easy to do, but in theory. the only thing i can't work out is how you'd turn left of right. easily anyway. Also, you can make a "touch screen" out of a wii remote, [url=http://www.geek.com/articles/gadgets/incredible-wiimote-hack-creates-multitouch-display-20071212/]as per here[/url], using light pens. get a NERF gun, pull that apart or something, wire a button to the triger, mount the select buttons to the gun, light pen on the barrel... big project. you'd need a whole ROOM in the house to make it work really... let us know how you go

Need Help: Gaming Build

Sun, 15 May 2011 11:55:59 GMT

no, it's not something you can get hold of LN2 runs at less then -200degC, and you need special equipment to keep it that cold. LN2 on my QX9650 will run @ 5.6+GHZ, i have mine, aircooled, stable @ 4.3ghz, (thou currently running 4.02ghz. the RAID controller can't keep up, and crashes after about 3hours, then nees to cool down) watercooled, and NOT running RAID, i should be able to push this to 4.6-4.8ghz stable. remember this is an "old" s/775 CPU, running and "old" Striker board. Thinking of replacing it with the p45 board i have, and run my 2x465's as single cards, one for physx one for video. These striker boards have an issue with overheating northbridges, limiting OC performance.. i've managed to pull the temp down to 70degC on the NB, (over the 100deg stock i was getting during my orginial OC), but it's still not good. the P5Q-Pro i have should give me an extra few hundred HZ

Use keyboard keys for a virtual reality?

Tue, 17 May 2011 13:13:22 GMT

found this on PC Case gear - [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=284_957&products_id=11318]Click me[/url] That'd fix you're looking problem, i guess...

Branded Media Centre (with Tuner)

Wed, 18 May 2011 11:29:05 GMT

bit pricey dont you think? For $89, isn't it worth like the 5 seconds to crack open the machine, and slap in the card... neway

New Rig

Thu, 19 May 2011 09:20:02 GMT

um, chris, you realize that wont work? the P and the Z series boards dont actually allow you access to the GPU on the chip for Video. Only Video encoding accelleration, and that's only on the Z board. You'll need a H6x board. I'd go a - Core i5 2400 - $189 ASUS P8H61-M B3 - $95 Corsair CMV4GX3M2A1333C9 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 - $49 Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB - $69 CoolerMaster Elite 330 with 420W - $69 CD burner - $50+/- $521 + postage. $471 if you can re-use the burner out of your old system. it doesn't sound like you need anything fancy, and the HD2000 video on the chip is about the same performance as the HD5450. you're not going to overclock the CPU, and that case, while not being the most awesome out there, will cool sufficiently, and the PSU will be enough, even if you throu a Video card @ it down the track, (up to say a 450, maybe a 560Ti, or MAYBE even a 6850. Deffinately a 5770). The above it pretty much the upgrade i build for my dad. to that we've added a GTX275 i had spare for him to play games, and .... i dont remember what PSU we used. it was either the TT PSU that come with the DOKKER case i bought him, or it was a Antec 500 Earthwatts i had lieing about. .... at one stage, i had 2x 7950GTX, 2x 9800GTX, 2x GTX275, and currently i'm using 2x GTX465's. gave away the 2 9800's, and the 275 to ma dad... rest are in a box... some were

Branded Media Centre (with Tuner)

Thu, 19 May 2011 12:35:50 GMT

[quote=Peter try hard]So what has changed in the last 4 years? [/quote] 4-5 years ago, Media Center was getting a big push. I'm guessing that your system probably shipped with Windows XP MCE. Media Center is now part of you're main op system, (ships in everything win 7, but the enterprise, and the "K" Editions, (i think)). It didn't ship in Home basic and Business editions of Vista. not sure why's it's not Optional Equipment now. you'd think it'd something you would be able to value add... OH, now that TVs can surf the web, why would you wanna watch TV on a computer? Boss' new Samsung found my laptop, that was on his wifi network, (we was working from "home", watching TV, not really working), as a DLNA streaming device. the laptop's connected to my homegroup setup @ home. you wouldn't need a media box to watch downloads, you'd just have to make sure they are the right format

New Rig

Thu, 19 May 2011 17:53:51 GMT

[quote=Blakew18]but the fact it has a USB3 header capable over taking 2 front USB3 ports[/quote] But the case has to be USB3 ready as well. just thought i'd mention that. the plug for USB3 on the board is completely different. [quote=Blakew18]I chose the Quad Core Black Edition because I run Adobe CS4 on this system[/quote] ok, i run CS4 and CS5, and REALLY, you need to run an Nvidia card to make the most of it as well. Basically as long as it has CUDA, then you're sweet. My lappy has a NVS1400 quadro card, which is basially an 8600, and CS4/5 works awesome, even with my "little" T7500 C2D. CS5, if you plan to upgrade is multi thread, so the more cores you have the faster it runs too. regardless of the motherboard, the 1055t 6core CPU, and something like a GT430, or 450. The AMD card will not give you HW accelleration. give me a few, and i'll workout what the best setup would be (should have mentioned you're running CS...)

New Rig

Thu, 19 May 2011 18:08:43 GMT

sooo.... AMD Phenom II X6 1055T - $179 Gigabyte GA-880GM-USB3 Motherboard - $105 Corsair CMV4GX3M2A1333C9 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 - $49 Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB - $69 CoolerMaster Elite 330 with 420W - $69 Gigabyte GeForce GTS 450 1GB Overclocked - $139 (Most cost effective, for the number of thread cores. 192. Same as a 550ti, and the 440 only has 92) $520 + postage I recon you'd be hard pressed to find a better CS machine then this. changing the board to a different one will only effect rendering by 1-3% MAYBE, so not worth the 40-90% increase in cost. you'd be better off spending the extra on an 8gb memory park, or a Caviar Black drive over a blue. infact - Kingston ValueRAM KVR1333D3N9K2/8G 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 - $95 ($44 difference, over the corsair pack) do that

How to overclock Phenom II X6 1035t?

Sat, 07 May 2011 19:45:26 GMT

it's unlikely there will be much overclocking features in your bios. HP wont want you to be able to much with it, but if you can increase the Front Side bus, (or whatever they call it, the reference clock or something) dont like your chances thou

ACTUALLY cost to run a highend PC

Fri, 06 May 2011 17:29:41 GMT

no dog, no gate, easy access, we're just on a bit of an easement, so they'd have to walk up a slight hill.

Finding What version Bios installed?

Sun, 17 Apr 2011 13:51:02 GMT

it'll say on the post screen. Were you get the Gigabyte splash screen, @ the bottom, it should say, TAB for post or something like that. depending on how fast it flash's up, hit tab, the post screen will show, and you should get the bios ver @ the top of the screen IF it's tooo fast, you'll need to get into the bios, and disable the splash screen. it's there somewere, different in each system. the ver it might even be in the bios under system information

Finding What version Bios installed?

Mon, 18 Apr 2011 10:24:09 GMT

..... so did you get the bios ver? i know what the Gigabyte splash screen looks like, you did press the TAB button yeah?

Think I Fried My PC

Mon, 02 May 2011 08:36:41 GMT

my money's on a dead PSU. Exactly the same symptoms on a mates/clients machine. new PSU, system fired up fine

New pc

Tue, 03 May 2011 10:22:08 GMT

i'm running a pair of GTX465's in SLI with a 775 Core2 QX9650 @ 4.1ghz air cooled stable. very fast, nice a smooth :) GUESSING you're either using a Q6600 or a Q8400, so a GTX 560Ti or a 6850-6870 would be my pick. Thinking that your CPU might not be able to get data fast enought to anything better DONT forget athe Power supply. Make sure you budget for a good one. spend no less then $120 on one. Crazy if you don't

Gaming PC - First Build

Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:43:06 GMT

Don't forget, the stock cooler IS FINE unless you are going to Overclock it, and it IS someting that you'll be able to add to the system @ a latter date. They CM-690-II has a hole in the back of the m/board tray for access. [quote=TaxidermyTots] I really like the Noctua NH-D14, would that be overkill? If so, which other Noctua coolers would be good to use? I would like Noctua, as the colour of their fans really suit the Sabertooth and I think they would look cool together[/quote] Seriously, there's not such thing as overkill when it comes to this. There's only bugget and personal prefference. i use a NH-12, and managed to get the 14cm fan that the NH-d14 uses to mount, and manage some pretty awesome numbers from my QX9650. Also, dont forget that you can buy the noctua fans seperately, if you really wanna show off your comp. PERSONALLY, i'd spend the extra $10 on the 690-II with the window. you're going to the trouble of the look of the inside, and you wont see it :) I'd actually get ther white one for something different...

First high end gaming PC now complete

Thu, 31 Mar 2011 15:18:36 GMT

[quote=Seanay00]im using the bios raid setup ... So far it's going strong but wat problems could i have??? [/quote] It's not that, the chances of the RAID controller failing is neglegable, and regardless, now-a-days, the controller rights the RAID setup to the drives, so if it does happen, recovering's easy, BUT if you loss a drive for what ever reason, you lose all your data. I've had to rebuild an array on a guys machine like 3 times in as many weeks, luckily it was a raid 5 array, as the SATA cables were faulty, (they were new and everything, and they weren't crushed @ all, just one of those things). Kept coming up an error on a drive on a random port, (wasn't even the same port), so i didn't think to look @ that, replaced the drive, rebuilt array... done. Tested each drive ok, and when it happened the 3 time, i used one of the drives from before, worked fine. Replaced the cables, no more issues If it had been a raid stripe array, there would have been tears for sure

Issue with TPLink routers

Wed, 06 Apr 2011 09:44:01 GMT

Hey guys, here's a curly one, (and it's me asking for advice, how awesome's that) breif run down - we move office, no real network @ new office, server's offsite, so not an issue, ADSL connected while boss overseas, setup wifi, TP-link TL-WR741ND used, Asus wifi AP to connect printer and network to tech room @ back of office, Accountant's PC using Netgear WN-311B, 2-3 laptops connected. Moved servers to office a few weeks ago, so the above TPlink connected to Linksys/cisco layer 2 managed switch, ADSL connected to Cisco 877W, 4 domain contollers, 3 CAS servers, 3 Mailbox share servers, all running on VM on 3 physical machines. monday we had HUGE latency issues. Net was slow, couldn't connect to any Microsft related sight, (inc ninemsn, so i couldn't get to APCMAG.com, due to the MSN banner). we thought the Cisco was faulty. ping router, get dozen responces, then it'd drop a packet, then the next took almost a second to reply. BUT, isolate cisco, works fine. disconnect ADSL, network settled down. (BTW, at this stage, the TL-WR741ND has had DHCP turned off, so it's just an AP, WIFI security is WPA2-PSK AES) We had come accross simular symptoms before when a CAS cluster gets confused in it's replication, and starts flooding the system with trafic. Looks like 1 server stops working properly, but windows network load balanceing isn't smart enough to work out that the server's not working. (Exchange has like 5 services needed to work, and it looks like it only looks @ the core service to see if it's up) the fix for the above it to rebuild the cluster, (which honestly, isn't that hard, or take too long). We spent ages working out the issue. i spent the better part of a day looking @ the lights on the switch, router, and AP as we slowly disconnected what we could to see what happened. we didn't think it was the AP, as we were using it without issue with out laptops. as it was the only thing left, pulled AP, everything settled down. Factory reset, setup wifi sec. system works now, ANYone had this issue? YES, we are going to replace the TPLink router. NO, we aren't going to use this wifi in the cisco. it's very difficult to set up WPA2. (unless someone can send me the conf.) input appreciated.

Issue with TPLink routers

Wed, 06 Apr 2011 22:55:19 GMT

HONESTLY, i dont touch it. i've seen the boss fight with it for hours, and he knows what he's doing. i've only really delved into the SDM once or twice... SOOO i couldn't tell you what OS. i THINK it needs a flash and RAM upgrade before we can update to the latest OS.... i think that what the boss was complaining about the other day... think he's planning on upgrading to an 1800 series. the 877 and 871's we're using wont do a handfull of things that will make our systems faster... or something... the NoNat command doesn't work propery on this 800's or something... meh He tends to babble on about stuff sometimes... and usually when i'm busy trying to sort out another issue... (or he's rung me at some silly hour after work), tend to switch off :)

Gaming PC - First Build

Sun, 10 Apr 2011 20:00:36 GMT

For starters, buy another HDD. they are cheap. you'll need a decent PSU, i'm running a Corsair TX-950. wasn't too expensive, and more then enought to run a pair of GTX465's, and a very Overclocked QX9650. With PSU's you get what you pay for. dont skimp on it. whatever you do. case'll come down to personal preference. Personally i like the Coolermaster gear, and i use a CM-690. Which i need to replace, and intend to upgrade to a CM-690 II Advanced case. not overly expensive. Getting that from Gamedude computers. The biggest range of listed cases i've seen online is from PCCasegear. start there maybe? If you like something funky, the NZXT Phantom's a really nice case, look good, reveiws look good, and aren't too expensive.

Gaming PC - First Build

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 10:21:31 GMT

ok, first, i wouldn't worry about the SSD. 60gb isn't alot of storage. hell, my steam folder's pushing the 200gb region. you're much better off with a WD blue or Seagate 7200.12 1tb drive. that'll give you more money to play with. Second. never skimp on you're Powersupply. it can and probably will mean an unstable computer. This would be what i'd build. little over budget, but withing reason. remember, this is NOT including postage. something you'll need to take into account. - PCCasegear Core i5 2500K - $249 ASRock P67-PRO B3 - $129 G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB - $125 NZXT Phantom Case - $189 3x Seagate Barracuda 500GB ST3500413AS sata3 @ $49 each - $147 (RAID 5 them) Gainward GeForce GTX 570 1280MB Goes Like Hell Edition - $399 - Gamedude computers Cosair TX850 - $178 total - $1416 plus postage. MIGHT work out the same to get the PSU from PCCG, depending on postage. They had then @ $185. Use you're old CD-ROM/DVD+-RW. they are now +$50, due to Japan crisis. And considering you wont use it much... you could save $60 or so by buying a single terabyte drive, over the RAID 5 array, but the array is faster, and more redundant. Also there's $50 in the Video card is you get the stock Gainward card. IF you never touch the system again, (EG, dont change the video card, dont add more HDD's... DONT overclock the CPU), then you'd get the 2500 CPU, and drop the PSU to the 750, but that's not going to save you that much @ the end of the day The 2500K has the Overclocking potential to be almost as fast as a i7 980X with the right cooling and overclocking. will mean you need to save for better cooling, but you wont have to worry about this till later.

Gaming PC - First Build

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 09:59:18 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]I wouldn't bother raid. It's not a backup solution and can get a bit fiddly to set up and recover[/quote] ... maybe ... but it's still faster than a single drive. it was an option over the SSD, and recovery is actually VERY easy. swap erroring drive, go into control software, it'll ask if you wanna use the new drive to rebuild, once it's set to rebuild, it'll load windows, and you're system will be back to full speed, depending on the size of the array, with in hours. [quote=EvilChickenMonkey]The TX850 is a great PSU, but 850W is way overkill. You'll get more efficiency from something closer to ~600W. Not a problem, but you might save a few $$ in power bills[/quote] the premise of my build was scalability. to push the CPU to it's full Overclock pertential, you'll need the extra juice. Add a second GTX570. you'll need the extra juice. What's the use of building a machine like this, if you dont have the overhead to upgrade it? [quote=EvilChickenMonkey]I'd get an Asus or Gigabyte mobo over an ASRock[/quote] only picked it as that's what taxi was planning to use. I wouldn't use one personally. TECHnically they started as an offshoot of Asus, but they aren't any longer, and they aren't any good. The sabertooth might be a little overkill... ummm... i'd look @ the P6X58D-E or the gigabyte X58A-UD3R Taxi - My system spec will still give you a faster machine, if you are willing to overclock. even if you plan to OC that 950, you wont get as much out of it as the 2500K. we managed to max out my mate's 950 @ 3.9-4ghz. expected more. THOU that was with the stock cooler, AND it was running @ close to 100degC... hehehe i've JUST read a guide on bit-tech to get a 2500K to 4.5ghz stable with a TT FRIO cooler, (which is probably the best for the money, but you CAN get better, if you want to pay the $$$). from what i understand, you can get one of these to benchmark higher then a 990x aircooled. Bit-tech was saying that they have a theoritical OC of close to 6ghz, (dont even think of tryin THAT) [url=http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2011/01/07/how-to-overclock-the-intel-core-i5-2500k/1]CLICK HERE for bit-tech link[/url] ALSO, my 2c, i would pick a supplier, regardless if one place is a little cheaper then other, if you plan to get it freighted to you. that will for [b]sure [/b]end up costing you more then the few $$$ you save shopping around. if you can rock in and buy stuff, then do that. especially the case. getting that posted will kill you. Something that big will be sent buy how big the box is, not how heavy it is, (called cubic weight). and get's expensive.

Gaming PC - First Build

Thu, 14 Apr 2011 11:51:19 GMT

[quote=TaxidermyTots]I'm curious, why would the Sabertooth be "overkill[/quote] The thereom on the sabertooth board is the parts used. This and the ROG line are built specfic to the OC community, and they basically they use higher end caps, (they called them military or industrial grade, if they ACTUALLY are, it's hard to tell), more power rails to the CPU, more OC options in the bios.... you get the idea. i know i bark on about the OC ability on what i've been quoting you, but you've not acttually mentioned it... so i'm assuming that you wont be, and then, the extra few dollars saved, (going by the pricing i was working on), could be spent elsewere to make a faster system. with me and chris that are here in brissy, 2x boards i quoted are like $50 cheaper. If you can get the sabertooth @ a good price go for it! It is the better board. ... if you WERE Getting a case from PCCG, then adding a few parts that are a bit cheaper from there to the post out shouldn't effect the postage costs much, (maybe a few $$$ more for insurance sort of thing), offsetting the $30-40 postage you'll wear to get the case you want. If they are worth their salt, the'll open the case, and stuff some parts in there, (what we used to do @ Gamedude... if the case was sub 10KG anyway... Aust Post dont like stuff that's tooo heavy) PCCG is definately closer to u then GD. postin out to SA WA and NT it quite $$$ out of brissy via Aust Post. STILL dont know the draw on the antec DF case... i personally think it's ugly. i like true minimalist, (like the Fractal design stuff, and the CM690 v1 and 2 case), or truely outrages custom sexy stuff, (like that NZXT case) hoping that i'll be able to afford a cm690 ii case over the easter break... as it dont look like i've have my car back in time, and i'm going to be bored s#!tless during my time off. WAS going to mod my existing CM690, BUT my baby boy busted my front panel, while i had it all apart working out the mods.... rah

Gaming PC - First Build

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 15:15:10 GMT

[quote=TaxidermyTots]I would like to overclock eventually, however right now money won't permit[/quote] all you'll need to save for is a decent cooler. i wouldn't worry about water cooling, as there's a very real level of danger in that sort of setup. it springs a leak, computer no worky. and considering i'm getting 4.5ghz stable out of my QX9650 air cooled, with a 4yr old Noctua NF-12 cooler, @ 4.1ghz, last nite, 32deg @ idle, 65deg peek during benchmarking, and the system's quiet. [quote=TaxidermyTots]Also, I'm a beginner when it comes to all that jazz, so it hasn't phased me too much at this current time.[/quote] we all were once matey :) think a little outside the box, the CM690's are have huge moding potential. intent to crack out the dremel and mod my cm690 chassis this easter break... considing it doesn't look like i'm getting my car back in time... [quote=TaxidermyTots]And I'm worried about the bars that cover the 5.25" drive bays.[/quote] i haven't had a close look, but i'm pretty sure they are just dress panels, and will pop out... *shrugg* meh... like i said, not me. don't even like the HAF cases coolermaster make, look wise anyway

First high end gaming PC now complete

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 13:59:04 GMT

[quote=James Slater]Can I ask how much it set you back?[/quote] Gunna make a quick guess, but he got a little change from $2K? He gave you the part numbers, best bet is to pick the hardware retailer closest to you, and get a quote for the same parts. If i remember correctly, this guy's rural, so he had to pay for postage as well.

First high end gaming PC now complete

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 14:16:45 GMT

[quote=James Slater] I'm thinking about building my own computer but not too sure what sort of budget will be needed[/quote] hmm... the more the spend the faster the comp. if you dont pick a max spend before you start, either you end up buying parts bit by bit, (which is silly, prices change almost daily, so the first part you buy you end up paying way tooo much), or the system never get's built. i dont know. $1500 will get you a pretty special gaming rig, depending on were you go or how much you are willing to shop around.

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 14:18:46 GMT

[quote=pbender]...Then after 10-20 seconds the PC just turns itself off...[/quote] Peter - Pretty sure the system's not going to do that is the screen's faulty. good thought thou, i mean, it would be easily over looked.

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Tue, 15 Mar 2011 16:45:36 GMT

yeah, true, but i mean, it all depends what he wants to do. depends on how he values his time too. I spent a weekend trying to get a machine i've been slowly collecting parts for, for my dad, to run stable. work fine on the test bench, installed windows on it, installed unigine benchmarks, stress tested for a day or 2, Crysis installed and played, decided to give him my old GTX275 video card, sent him out to buy a new case, (case i had was too small), transplanted the system, and when i pluged in a HDD, no post. Either i scratched a track in transit, (but i couldn't see it), or i managed to smash the SATA plugs when i installed the video card, (The board was left over from an upgrade for a client, and a P5N-MX board. Sata 1 and 2 are behing PCI-e slot), i dont know. @ the end of the day, i spent 10 hours trying to make it work. i bought him an i5 2300 and a H61 chipset board today. It's cheaper them my lost sanity fighting with this gear. Moral of story - Fight for as long as you have to, but dont be afriad to throw up your hands and cry enough! Go get a new system! :)

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 20:23:55 GMT

.... situation normal the way i see it.... It's funning... i used to have to re-install my dad's comp every 3 months or so, cos he'd install something that he shouldn't, or get infected searching for pr0n.... Until i told him i'd have to start charging him to fix it, like all my other clients.... haven't had to do a reinstall in ages! hehe but yeah, i've attempted this machine for him 4 times... each time a motherboard problem. P5ND2-SLI - issues finding a stable CPU (fastest CPU i could get for this was a P4D805, and it wasn't stable) P5NE32-SLI - looks like a cut track. was trying to make it fit in an old Antec Lanboy, and it was tight, i'm thinking a must have nicked it late one nite when i was puting it together. Then the above... Anyway, his 2300 i5 setup and quite snappy. impressed with the system considering the cost. (i did donate a GTX275 and a pair of 1.5gb Samsungs...)

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:13:52 GMT

MY PISTONS ARRIVED! YAH! engine should get put together monday/tuesday, and then it's just a matter of measuring up the intercooler pipework and dump pipe! so can't wait to get it back and start fitting this CarPC, and i should have it ready for Easter, were it's getting driven to Port Macquarie for family holiday!

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:19:57 GMT

[quote=Seanay00]Thats wat i was thinking about doing with my AW11 MR2. [/quote] i really should have read this more closely.... i really wanna build a AW111 MR2 as a track car... one day... You're note a brisbane local are you? if you are, should all get together and go for a drive up a hill somewere :)

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Sun, 20 Mar 2011 17:46:55 GMT

ummm... who you talking to bro? if you're talk about the orginal post, then no, it's doesn't sound like it posting. if it was, it wouldn't be turning back off again. i think it's the motherboard personally. there's a board @ work that visually if perfect, pull ram, and it beeps for a memory problem, but swap memory and CPU's and it wont post. guessing memory controler issue, (775 board). if it's still not sorted, he should have bought a new machine by now :)

Best Overclock

Fri, 25 Mar 2011 13:55:09 GMT

Aquired a QX9650 to replace q8400, and i managed 4.38 stable air cooled, with the NF-12, running the 14cm fan from the NF-14, and 2x 12cm noctua fans in the roof of the CM690 i'm running. will post and boot into windows @ 4.42ghz, but when you crank up a benchmark, it crashes. Thinking i've pretty much hit the limitation of the board i'm using, but still have some tweek'n to do read a post were some extreme OC'ers got 4.7ghz Air cooled, and 5.6 Liquid Nitrogen cooled with the same chip. if i can get 4.42 stable, i'll be happy, thinking i need a new case for that thou, (pretty much can't be bothered modifying this case and fixing the front panel that's now busted, kids, love 'em). edit - Oh yeah, that CPU is 3ghz stock 4.12ghz, 40degC idle, 58-60 during Unigine test, 4.38 60degC idle, didn't check underload, was testing for stablilty. CPU-Z and CoreTemp used to numbers. with everything on, 1680x1050 DX11 unigine bench, average 68FPS, (125 max and 40 mins FPS i think?), with 2x 465's in SLI OC 30mhz above stock.

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 11:42:27 GMT

[quote=GKPort]what do you mean by "a cut track"? I haven't heard this term before.[/quote] ok, if you look @ A motherboard, or any bit of electronic equipment acutally, the PCB, (the board were all the components are attached), has, under a protective layer of resin, copper lines or tracks that connect all the components. If you scratch the board, and damage the resin coating to the point were you scratch the "track" enough to remove the copper, you've cut the track. i found a small scratch between the ram and south bridge on the back of the board. it didn't look like it actually cut the trak, but the resin has been damaged

Best Overclock

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 11:57:31 GMT

[quote=Seanay00]So seeing u seem to be the O/C king with those figures SS-Rotel u got any tips???? [/quote] Honestly, i googled that CPU, and read what other's had done with it. It dows help that it's a Extreme edition chip, with an unlocked multiplier, am running 12x at something MHz (stock it's 9x) From the reviews i was reading what i bought my Noctua NF-12, they were getting temps within 3% of the H50, which you could almost put down to margin of error. Anyway, you should have cool air going in the frount, and hot air out the back/top, i can't remember what your case is, but i'd try and run the h70's radiator on the top of the case if you can, have a fan blowing across HDD's into the back of the 6870's and let the video card's extract the air. Also one thing that get's over looked alot, is northbridge and southbridge cooling. when you remove that stock HSF that's pushing air down across the motherboard, you reduce dramatically the cooling to these parts. The biggest limitation to the Stiker i'm using is the NB get's really hot when you push the FSB. i've had to mount a Coolermaster 4in3 caddy, replacing the fan with a Zalman Zf3 84cfm fan, backwards, so it's blowing across the NB. it's not pretty, but it works [quote=Seanay00]It has been hot in brisbane lately and the room the pc is in isnt the greatest for airflow[/quote] tell me about it. my "office" has my file server, daily rig, and OC rig, and that night they were all running, would have easily been 40-45deg in that room that nite. resorted to a desk fan to cool the system at one stage

First-time building a PC

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:00:21 GMT

what ever you do, dont leave it too long, my supplier tells me that ANYTHING that has something in it that's made in Japan, will double in price in the next 1-2 weeks. all DVD drives run a Japanese made laser pickup or something, ram, HDD's and a few others are pegged to go up. Wont be a long term thing, but for warned and all

Building my own and want advice on CPU

Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:03:28 GMT

[quote=Owenh] Originally I was going to go with 4gig of DDR3 but am wondeering if I may be better of with 6gig.[/quote] well. you're running a s/1156 CPU, and that's only Dual channel. you can run 6gb, (3x2gb stick), if you really wanna, but you will only be running them in Single channel. s/1366 runs triple channel. 4gb'll be enough, it's all i'm running in my 2 rigs, and you wanna buy the fastest CPU you can afford Make sure, if you pick an I7 or I5 7xx chip, you'll need a video card, as the Video card is on the CPU not the Motherboard in this chipset, and they dont have the GPU.

Motherboard question

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 10:46:59 GMT

.... one thing too ... if you pick a reputable shop to buy stuff, the sales man should at least ask the question if the parts you're getting, (if they are, like this, obviously incompatable), are to be used together, and make a recomenedation, (or flat out refuse to sell you the wrong gear... you'd be amazed how many times i acutally had to do this in the few years i spent @ a sales counter). Also, most motherboard come with just enough to get you going. So... enough cables for a HDD, ODD, and should ship with back panel, manual and drivers. IF you plan to use more then 1 HDD, make sure when you're buying the machine, that you'll have enough sata data and power cables, (if you plan to use a cheap PSU).

Budget Gamer

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 10:51:58 GMT

.... i saw a 19inch, (well.. 18.5inch) Benq monitor @ JB the other day, (in sydney... @ the Super Center in the norhtern burbs... dont ask me why i was there....) for $98. i would have bought an handfull if i had driven down...

Budget Gamer

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 11:16:52 GMT

prices from Gamedude as of 10am 22 feb 2011 1 ASUS M4N98TD-EVO nVidia NForce 980a SLi - 145 1 AMD Phenom II X4 965 BLACK EDITION - 179 1 SAMSUNG 22x DVD Burner BLACK SATA - 22 1 SeaGate 500 gig 7200.12 - 45 1 THERMALTAKE ARMOR A90 BLACK STEEL Super MidiTower NO PSU - 115 2 4gig DDR3 1333Mhz Various Brands TEAM / A-RAM @59ea - 118.00 1 CoolerMaster 650watt Power Supply - 99 1 GTX460 1GB GDDR5 OVERCLOCK Dual DVI/HDMI Clock:715 MHz - 219 1 21.5inch LG E2240V-PN LED backlighting 5ms Response DVI/D-Sub/HDMI - 169 total $1111 not sure if this is an option, but what i would buy for a budget gamer if i only had about 1K to spend. mid range, with SLI upgrade path, still faster/more stable then ATI i believe... but that's me. Obviously, if you leave it for a little bit, you'll probably be able to get a 550 or 560 or something alone those lines...

Budget Gamer

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 11:30:06 GMT

Acutally, just checked it out, the 560Ti that's just hit the market is only an extra $70, and on Tomshardware, in BFBC2, an extra 27FPS max, and 20 or so on average faster. a touch quicker then a 470. [url=http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-560-ti-gf114,2845-9.html]Click here[/url] for the tomshardware review i'd stretch the budget for the extra $70.

Motherboard question

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 13:22:35 GMT

so 500 for the board and CPU or just the board? guessing for both. what are you going to be using the system for? probably look @ the new Sandy bridge stuff. it's fast, and not really any more expensive then the previous core I stuff, but you it's up to you if you wanna wait and see for the newer B3 stepping. The issue that's flying around with the originial release, has been tipped not to manifest, if you are unlucky enough to get one of the effected chip's, for upwards of 3yrs. Quite possibly outside of the life of the setup anyway.

Motherboard question

Tue, 22 Feb 2011 13:46:04 GMT

[quote=PlacidPenguin]As for purchasing the hardware it's all done online as there are no pc stores in my area unless i travel down to melbs (3 hour drive).[/quote] I buy most of my stuff from Gamedude computers in QLD. They are close, usually have stock, and seeing as i used to work there, and know everyone there, dont have to wait in line. They do mail outs, and the site, all be it old and clunky, works, and i know the cost of postage is current. They use Aust post, and they insure everything they send. use the site, place the order, before you confirm it will give you a quote on postage. give you an idea on the spend. shouldn't be too much, m/board and CPU's not too bad. Ring before you confirm the order, to make sure they have stock, and if you get one of the girls on the phone, and ask for help, they'll get it for you, eventually. (one of them's my lil sis, so be nice) from the GD site, - Core i7 2600, (only worry about the 2600K unless you are going to overclock it) it's $329 and either a GIGABYTE GA-H67A-UD3H or an ASUS P8H67-V both look like the same spec, both are about $175. plus probable $35 postage at a guess? hard when i dont know you're post code, but like i said, the website will work it out.

SMS for iPad

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 18:20:06 GMT

i do appologise for the miss understanding. That said, if you did have to use a whole bucket of water to try out my naming theory, then hat off to you my good fellow.

D-skins?

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:09:47 GMT

a long time ago, you used to be able to get this sort of thing, and they were useless. have you ever seen what happens to a CD when it spins to 48x speeds, and it's off balance? they explode! sooo, so that doesn't happen, most optical drives wont, (or can't), spin to that speeds if the disc isn't spinning balanced So, unless you get them on the disk perfectlly, the disk wouldn't spin properly, and they ended up really slow And yes, depending on the drive, you'll have clearence issues, (bet they dont work in a laptop real well, and they wont slot load into a WII or an apple notebook) @ the end of the day, As long as you own a copy of the movie/game/music, you are legally allowed to own a backup copy. How you aquire that copy is irrelevant. So download them off those torrent sites if you feel that making the digital copy is too hard. OR if you are just making archive copies, use a program called imgburn to make ISO's of the disk. it'll make it easy to burn copys after the fact, and it's the only program i've come accross that will burn 360 images properly. (not that you'll be able to play the burnt disks unless you're 360's been modified, and MS Hates you if you do that)

D-skins?

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:14:57 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]I would digitize my whole collection then sleeve and store in a drawer or filing cabinet as you shouldn't ever need the original again unless someone wants to borrow it but i just lend them the back up i have to be safe[/quote] i have a Laser 640 lockup case with all my music in it, and a MP3 loseless copy and an Itunes copy, (if i want it on my ipod), and i usually download a 720p of a DVD that i watch alot of, and have it on the server. Trying to find a good to M4V/MP4 converter so i can convert to use with a new apple TV. Found one, but i can't remember the name. i want one that will automatically convert from a directory as new stuff get's added. Currently the one i found will tag them up, but you still have to hit convert. Ipodifier is not longer supported. no win7 support.

Patriot Inferno 60G x 2 DEAD User Review

Wed, 16 Feb 2011 12:34:57 GMT

i know i've knocked them in the past, but i wouldn't say SSD's a bad idea. They are just not perfect just yet. Give then 6-12 months, and they'll be a must have. i mean, i am saving for a nice big expensive shiny one for my laptop... the 32gb 1 i have was too small for win 7 pro, office 2010, and CS4. install all that, (and i was frugal, only what i used/needed), and i had 4gb left anyway... The latest/greatest Sony laptop runs a 4 way stripe of 64gb SSD drives, in a chassis with a 13inch 1080P screen. Boss just bought one. it's awesome. FREAK'N expensive thou.

Patriot Inferno 60G x 2 DEAD User Review

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:16:36 GMT

i've never had an arrat drive fail, not personally, not due to hardware anyway. Due to fat fingers, yeah. lost an array over xmas due to lack of sleep not watching what i was doing... power addaptor to 2 out of 8 drives got unpluged.... rah... spent the rest of my holidays trying to recover what i lost, and copy from other friends servers what i couldnt', (i made a backup of most of my data on the work server a few months previous, so not a total loss) joy [quote=Chris.Lampard]PS. Rotel so jealous of your boss lol, what transfer speeds he achieving 1g/s ? [/quote] have yet to see it. he flys back tomorrow, so i'll play with it then. 15sec from turnon to logged into windows, load'n IE. Fairly impressive

Moving Boot OS Partition to SSD

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:30:05 GMT

you can use a program like ghost to copy all the data from one hard drive to another, regardless of what hardware you are using to do so. The down side is most FREE one will not let you "ghost" to a smaller drive. That said, with an SSD drive, and a copy of the win 7 installer on a USB Pendrive or HDD, you'll be able to install a fresh copy in sub 15mins. if you download all the drivers for you're hardware and have it ready, you'll have a PC to use in sub 30 mins. after restarts and typical updates, (if you have fast nets) before you ask, i wont tell you how to make a USB drive installer. google it. google knows all

How to format external hard drive?

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:47:51 GMT

forget the mac, go back to you're PC you using XP or Vista/win 7? XP -> Click start, click run, type CMD, click ok vista/7 -> click start bubble, type CMD in the search bar, right click on CMD.exe that'll pop up, and click run as administrator [i]Of corse, make sure the hard drive is connected to the computer, and windows has detected it, and you can see it [/i] once you get the black command prompt box, run the command DISKPART. once that's loaded, run LIST DISK This will give you a list of the disks installed on your computer, starting at 0 going up from there. ID the external HDD, and take note of the disk number. its probably the last one run SELECT DISK EG, if it's disk 1, then SELECT DISK 1 [i][b]MAKE SURE YOU'VE GOT THE RIGHT DRIVE SELECTED. if you screw it up, and have selected the OP system drive, and do the next step, BANG, no more windows.[/b][/i] run CLEAN This will wipe the partition information of the drive you've selected. Once that's done, run the next set of commands CREATE PART PRIMARY SELECT PART 1 (if you want to be able to boot off it) ACTIVATE FORMAT FS=FAT32 ASSIGN= QUICK (if you want it to be a complete format, leave off QUICK) wait till it's finished Once that's done, exit it out, and you have SHOULD have a hdd formated to fat32. if you get stuck in DISKPART type HELP to give you a list of commands, and HELP to give you help on the command itself. SO... HELP CREATE will give you details on what CREATE command will do oh, and good luck and be careful!

SMS for iPad

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 22:06:40 GMT

doesn't SKYPE let you send SMS's? isn't there a SKYPE app for the the iTampon, i mean iPad? hmm, i guess @ the end of the day, someone's going to get charged for the SMS, it's only going happen if some one can send YOU a bill

Moving Boot OS Partition to SSD

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 09:40:01 GMT

free means you dont pay for it. last time i checked, you didn't have to pay for it. i WAS refering to the ghosting software you get with Ulimate Boot CD but if you can find a copy of Nortons Ghost 12, that'll be ur best bet

Budget overclocked gamer?

Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:38:15 GMT

I Was trolling for a cheap cheap overclock setup for my self, but since i spent all my money yesterday on an Canon 70-200 f.4L lens, i thought i'd share this bit of research with you - was trying to find an entry level CPU that i could overclock the be-jesus out of. Bit of outside the box thought, and desided to look into the Overclock-ability of the G6950 s/1156 Pentium Dual core CPU. As per - [url=http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2010/06/24/intel-pentium-g6950-cpu-review/1]this bit-tech rightup[/url] they are claiming a stable 4.62ghz overclock air cooled. and if you read the article, they claim that the H55 chipset clocks better then the P55 chipset on these CPU's. That's great, as these are cheap boards. sooo - g6950 CPU - $108 MSI H55M-E21, (CHEAP, and it looks like, counting the MOSFET's, 5 phase power) - $85 only downside on this board is that it only has 2x ram slots, but G.Skill Pack RIPJAWS 2x2gig DDR3 2000MhzCL9 - $99 and a decent cooler, the Zalman CNPS10X EXTREME looks like a close fit to the HSF that's used in the bit-tech review - $89 but for a bit of extra cooling, you'd swap the fan with the Zalman ZF-3, 85CFM , and only $15. Total cost of base parts, $396. Add for complete system - Aerocool QS-200 - $88 Coolermaster 650w PSU - $99 DVD+/-RW - $22 Seagate 1tb HDD - $61 MSI 560ti - $289 Total cost for pretty awesome LAN Box - $955. (i am making the assumption that the HSF will fit in the case. Personally was looking @ it to fit in my Silverstone SG03 case i have in my cupboard, and the GTX270 i have as well, i would have had to use a low profile HSF, like the THERMALTAKE ISGC-400, or a Noctua NH-C12P-SE14, $69 and $99 re-spectively) Of corse, going by the review, the AMD X3 CPU they clocked up as a comparison was a touch faster in games that worked better with more cores, but that set up was a touch more expensive. Price's are from Gamedude computers, and Coolpc.com.au

Budget overclocked gamer?

Mon, 07 Mar 2011 10:02:18 GMT

edit, Prolimatech Mega Shadow Deluxe - $59 <- from PCCaseGear Save $30, looks like a better cooler anyway Again, i'm assuming that it'll have enough clearence in that aerocool case, (it's pretty much a modified coolermaster elite 341). if you dont put a acase fan on the side panel were the CPU is, it'll fit, but it'll be tight

Budget overclocked gamer?

Mon, 07 Mar 2011 13:38:33 GMT

i was thinking the whole net cafe/gaming lounge thing too. would build them into the benches. would look trick done properly with glowy fans, and glass benchtops :) found some vinyl that looks like etched glass what would work a treat for the mouse mat.

Budget overclocked gamer?

Mon, 07 Mar 2011 13:59:58 GMT

What would you change? point of this post was to see what ppl would come up. There's lots of other stuff out there that i'm sure will OC, but i was pretty shocked when i found this. 4.62ghz out of a $110 CPU, with a $90, (they used a Gigabyte board with pretty much the same spec), and decent cooling. The HSF they used, titan gear, is usually cheap, i just haven't seen then in Aust for a while

Budget overclocked gamer?

Mon, 07 Mar 2011 23:18:23 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]CPU: AMD 555 Black Edition = $9[/quote] Guessing that's a typo... damn that's a cheap CPU, you win! Would that be faster thou? i mean, the only reason the AMD CPU was faster in the write up from bit-tech was the fact it had the extra core. how well dows that CPU OC? Thinking you'd be better spending an extra $20 on the x4 840, and less on the cooler, (you wont need it, as you can't OC as much), wouldn't that be faster/better option in your case?

Budget overclocked gamer?

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 23:58:11 GMT

went back, re-gig'd it slightly - prices from Gamedude and PCCasegear - significant changes are highlighted. Intel g6950 CPU - $108 MSI H55M-E21 - $85 G.Skill F3-14400CL9D-4GBFLS (2x2GB) DDR3 - $99 [b]CoolerMaster Elite 341 mATX - $45 Antec High Current Gamer 520W Power Supply HCG-520 - $85[/b] Samsung SH-S223C SATA DVDRW Drive - $25 Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB WD10EALX - $75 Gigabyte GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Super Overclock - $329. [b]XSPC Rasa 450 RS120 Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit - $129[/b] Total cost - $980 You'd mount the Raditator @ the back, with the fan on the outside of the case I'd seriously build that if i had the cash liquid, for a $#@t's and giggles thing :)

Mini Storage server

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 00:51:51 GMT

Again, alittle outside the box, but how about this an ultra quiet file server, with a 4x3tb RAID 5 array, (something like 8.9tb formated space), mirrored op system array, in a [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_30_394&products_id=14700]mini Lian-Li box.[/url] Tried to keep it ultra quiet, ultra small, and as power effceint as i could. J&W MINIX 890GX-USB3 Mini-ITX Motherboard - $175 AMD Athlon II X2 240e - $82 Corsair CMSO2GX3M1A1333C9 2GB PC-10600 SODIMM - $29 HighPoint RocketRAID 2680 SAS/SATA RAID Controller - $245 HighPoint Mini-SAS To 4 SAS/SATA With Power Cable - $59 4x Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB WD30EZRSDTL - $1116 2x Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB WD5000AAKX - $84 Samsung SH-S223C SATA DVDRW Drive - $25 Lian Li PC-Q08B Black HTPC Case - $152 Zalman ZM500-HP 500W Power Supply- $107 total - $2074 all prices from PCCaseGear. It wouldn't look out of place beside a TV either, and all you'd need to do is swap CPU for an AMD X4 645, and the burner to a blu-ray player...

Gateway® EC39C21a

Thu, 10 Mar 2011 22:53:06 GMT

Diiiiid you google it? i did, and it looks like JB hifi USED to sell it, (at least, it used to be listed in they online store), and if you goto the Gateway Australia website, it list 6 big retailers that sell their gear. Walk into your closest JB or Harvery Norman and ask if they can get you one. Back in the day, (talking Pentium 3 back in the day), they used to have a 12inch, full magnesium alloy laptop, was the shiz, wanted soo badly... was like 19 or 20, working for Coles... so never could afford it... *sigh*

Mini Storage server

Thu, 10 Mar 2011 22:57:16 GMT

i'll drop suggestion, spam'n bas ... rah... family show....

Gateway® EC39C21a

Sat, 12 Mar 2011 21:09:57 GMT

[quote=Slatts]And ss-rotel, I feel your pain. ;) So many toys! So little disposable income[/quote] And nothing has changed.... :( i'm older and earning more, but the toys are getting more expensive. then you get married, and it's even worse!

Motherboard question

Thu, 24 Feb 2011 14:27:42 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard] gamedude they are rude have bad service, take time in confirming failures and try to condescend or be-little you as quickly as possible[/quote] Tech maybe, but not the sales department. 9 times out of ten, the issues in the tech department is user related. I was in there one afternoon, when an irrate customer, that had clearly broken his computer in building the thing, then got annoyed with it enough to throw it off a table, brought it back, demanding a complete refund cos, and i quote, "7 day DOA means i can brake it within 7 days, and you have to refund me." there's only so much you can put up with @ that level... That said, if you've been burnt once, for whatever reason, i dont expect, and wouldn't ask you to go back. Such is life as they say. [quote=Chris.Lampard]RAM: 4 x 2gig Corsair XMS3 1600MHz = $55 x 2 = $110[/quote] Do you mean 2x4gb? And i dont see why he needs Watercooling... the stock cooler will do the job, he hasn't mentioned overclocking, and he's in Victoria. it's only hot when there's a fire... (sorry, bad taste... *grin*)

Black screen on power up!!!!!

Mon, 14 Mar 2011 23:27:30 GMT

man, it could be anything. obviously hardware related, might be PSU, but if you've unloaded it, and it still dont post, then it's hard to say. if it beeped on post typically, and it's not doing anything @ all now, try popping out the memory, and see if the motherboard gives a no memory installed error beep, (usually continuous long beeps). If you still get nothing, it might be the CPU, but it's more likely to be the motherboard. Either way, sound kinda terminal. Sorry Good excuse to buy a new computer???

First high end gaming PC now complete

Mon, 14 Mar 2011 23:33:01 GMT

Kudos on the nice neat build. i can't think of anything i'd change on that build, pretty much ticked all the boxes on that one. The only thing that looks out of place is te RAM cooling fan. you need to paint it red or something, the blue looks out of place :) oh, and RAID stripe for storage is asking for trouble. i would have bought a 3 WD Caviar blues and RAID 5'd them...

New PC Specs

Mon, 07 Feb 2011 20:51:52 GMT

is it me? or does this looks supprisingly like the Video editing machine that just got posted on the Home page :)

New PC Specs

Mon, 07 Feb 2011 21:09:01 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]I would run the single 6870 myself so i was upgrade proofed but for a quick fix 2 x 5770 is always dynamite for games[/quote] both are easy to get and about the same dollar value. Not sure were you're going with that there matey... I'd go the 6870 too. With HDMI1.4 and 3D processing in more then 1 standard, (if you can call it standards...), bit more future proof [quote=Chris.Lampard]PS: I have always been partial to big amperage single rail power supplies however a few of my mates run multi-rail power supplies with no problems.[/quote] Me too, Single Rail PSU's make it a little easier to wire up.

Patriot Inferno 60G x 2 DEAD User Review

Thu, 10 Feb 2011 23:12:26 GMT

this is why i've been saying that SSD's too young a tech to be used like that!!! I am sorry you're getting the run around thou, and if you lost any data from the array fail. A HDD or SSD failing within, what 4 months? should be replaced once they've confirmed the bad sectors. Unless they cant get a direct replacement, in which case you'll probable get better drives :) i'm waiting for my 4 old 150 raptors to fail...

New PC for sale - PRICE DROP

Wed, 19 Jan 2011 13:51:32 GMT

i so dont need another computer.

New PC for sale - PRICE DROP

Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:46:09 GMT

umm... 3 laptops 1 gaming rig 1 file server, (JUST finished this one, AMD 9750 quad core)<- faster, quieter and less power consumption then below 1 old filesever, (dual 3.06 Xeon) 1 All-in-one 22inch PC in bits 1 Atom based media box, (obviously) 1x E6500 based media box i have 2x SLI boards, (p5n-sli, p5n32e-slit deluxe), plus a whole bunch of other stuff i've plane forgoten about in my big box of bits... and i've sold like 2 systems over the last few months 2 once i've got my AMD server up and running properly, plan to set up some funky software to convert the video to apple format on the fly, (i am pretty sure it's called ipodifier), get an AppleTV, and use that as a media box.

New PC Specs

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 14:20:22 GMT

i guess this is a little more Game then Video editing but - ASUS M4A87TD-EVO 119.00 AMD Phenom II X4 965 BLACK EDITION 189.00 2 x 2gig DDR3 1333Mhz @ 32ea, 64.00 HIS HD6870 1G GDDR5 Model: H687F1G2M 269.00 SAMSUNG 1TB SATA-2 32meg Cache 7200rpm Model: HD103SJ 57.00 THERMALTAKE V4 BLACK , 450watt POWER Model: VM34521W2A 84.00 LG 22x DVD+/-R Burner 22.00 Total 804.00 Prices from Gamedude Dont think he needs 6core setup really...

New PC Specs

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 14:24:15 GMT

and Why in hell are you up @ 4am chris? no, scatch that, i was up too, my baby boy woke me... but at least i staid in bed :P

Making 2 PC's into one?

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 21:48:30 GMT

1st of all, HAHAHAHAH your nick is what SS stands for in mine :) 2nd, everything you say is true, but, i have never had to use an anti static mat, and just last week, i pluged in an windows 7 instal from an Intel based system, and pluged in the HDD into an AMD system, and it booted into windows, looking for new drivers, (and re-activation) the thermal grease is a good idea, and it's worth researching what's the best grease you can get locally. i've found Artic Cooling MX2 the best for what's easily available in SE QLD. can get it from coolpc in darra for about $10. doesn't set too hard, lasts 6 year supposedly, had some really good results with it in my systems. and it's recomended to fix the RROD in most insctructions i've found online, (how i found out about it) Also, you do plan to re-apply you thermal grease, make sure you remove the old stuff completely. again, from coolpc, they sell a 2 part removal stuff from artic silver, Artic Clean. brilliant stuff, and $9 for both bottles. Just on the Coolpc site now, there is a big tube of MX2 for $29, and new MX3 for $15... the smaler tubes are good for 30Cpu's?

New PC Specs

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 21:52:57 GMT

mind you, it's only a 7200rpm drive, it can physically only move soo much data. you'd be better of getting a pair of 500gb drives, and striping them. ... i've always been a fan of Asus gear, and personally, nothing but troubles, (and i mean, weird, strange, un-able-to-fix troubles), with gigabyte gear. BUT i usually pick random odd gear then OC the crap out of it... :)

Making 2 PC's into one?

Wed, 02 Feb 2011 20:51:45 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard] i heard that MX2 is better than MX3 haven't justified those claims myself yet.[/quote] i heard they dont perform any different, but they have different consistancys. the MX2 stuff's pretty light, (read watery), i'm guessing the MX3 is more like Artic Silver 5. i couldn't get any @ the time to try.

New PC Specs

Wed, 02 Feb 2011 20:59:50 GMT

i think that's a waste of money personally. you'll be better off put money into something else. I mean, all that's going to do is decrease how long windows takes to load. you'd be far better off getting 2x 500gb black or 2x Seagate 7200.12 drives, and stripe them for Op system, and then 3x 500gb drives and raid 5 them for data. and it'd probable cost about the same Again, it depends on what your use of the computer is. you say video editing and gaming. but what are you going to do with it more? is it a gaming rig that you plan to do the occasional video? or is it a work machine you plan to play games with every now and again?

New PC Specs

Thu, 03 Feb 2011 11:43:57 GMT

[quote=Blakew18]but I think I will build a downloading rig out of one of my spare pcs and keep this for everything [/quote] That's what i did. Built a files server/download box out of spare bits and lots of HDD's. Current iteration of that box, (get's upgraded every 8-12 months or so), AMD 9750 AM2, Asus M2N68-AM+ board, 4 2tb HDD's in span, and runs as file server, downloaded and print server. Planing to use something like Ipodifer to convert downloads on the fly, and use itunes on the box to stream to an Apple TV. [quote=Blakew18]frequent video conversion from avi to mpeg4 [/quote] You'd be able to offload that to the box you build for downloading, like i plan to above.

New PC Specs

Thu, 03 Feb 2011 23:33:28 GMT

i wouldn't... let see - soo ... 60-64gb SSD drives are about $170 yeah? 500gb 7200.12 Seagate drives are $45, and 1tb are $69 so you were talking about getting a SSD, ($170), a 500gb, ($50), and a TB external, ($100)... total cost about $320. like i said before, you'd get 3x 1tb and 2x500gb HDDs run the 1tb's in RAID5, giving you 1.8tb of redundant, (you cna lose a drive, and still recover all the data), space, and run the 2x 500gb's in Stripe, giving you 930gb of fomated space, with CLOSE to the acces time of you're 64gb SSD, and you'll end up with change. it's what i would do. OBVIOUSLY, you'll need to make sure the m/board you buy will support raid 5, 6SATA ports, (1 for the CD drive), and your case will hold 5 HDDs BUT more higher end m/boards and all decent case will do this.

New PC for sale - PRICE DROP

Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:57:58 GMT

sth west, b/plains

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Wed, 19 Jan 2011 00:09:57 GMT

SC12? isn't it an SC10, and the SC12's from that odd 6cyclinder engine that's in an old supra? or is that an SC14, and you're right... i dont remember. i haven't had the rolla in 2 years? @ the time i had the rolla, a BMW 735i (was like a 25 yr old car), that Jazz i have now, and we just bought a current model Lancer VRX. Bought it like week of release. sold rolla, beema, and lancer, kept jazz have a VW Tiguan, (and a baby son... *grin*) Tiguan's an awesome bit of kit, basically a VW Golf R detuned and modded to look like a SUV. detuned to "just" 125kw but with 280nm torque, get it retuned, and you get it back to 180kw and 350-410nm torque depending who you get to do it. (AND it only cost us $40K inc DSG. Tune's like $2000, bit cheaper then $60+K for a Golf R. Still want a Golf R thou) Love cars... anyway, trying to think of the name of the company that does great ceramic coating in Archerfeild... i THINK it's swift engineering...

Need corsair h70/50 mounting bracket

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 20:30:32 GMT

yeah... the black plate you srew into that has little nuts in it. The black bit just holds the nuts in place for you... SOOO if you cant get the black plastic bit, then get 4 bolts that fit... Should be too hard to work out eh?

USB 3.0 not working?

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 20:36:01 GMT

ummm... they didn't have a photo of me, (hence the gawd aweful photo of me... there's a forum post about my system.... media system... ummm... look it up), and rang me a like 30 mins before they went to print, beging for a pic Was awesome... iphone photo goodness... the phone calls and text messages i received from my freinds... woohoo

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:12:10 GMT

if you plan to run more then 12psi, from what i remember, you'll need to get the telfon removed from the blades on you SC and get them ceramic coated. From what i remember, running more then 12psi produced soo much heat it melted the telfon off, and destroyed the blades. i was planing to ditch the SC on my AE92, and go turbo. Stock EVERYTHING, the ECU will run up to 16psi. would have gone from 95kw @ Wheels to 165 or so without loosing too much low down, as the plan was to use, yes, a Garret GT25BB like we are using on my Jazz built. ... i bought the AE92 as a run about. was the Garage hack for the workshop that built it. body was bented, rusty, roof leaked, dash was 1/2 taken from the AE111(?) that it come out of, and the original, so nothing would fit, was AWEFUL to look @ BUT was sooo much fun @ the lights... It was completely guted, weighed about 900kg, had seats, and dash, and not much else. i remember overtaking a WRX on a big round about @ about a dollar 30, then 4 wheel drifting out of said roundabout. remember catching a the look on the driver and passager's faces while i was waving before i drifted out in front of them. rah! Miss my car. Spoke to engine builder last nite, SUPPOSEDLY the last of the parts needed got ordered yesterday, so hopefully i've have it for easter. has been off the road since august. AND before you ask YES it IS posible to drift a Front Wheel drive car. It's all about shifting the weight of the rear with braking of lift off overstear, and having the nuts to change up and stomp the gas to get the front spinning. Oh, and having the right suspension setup :)

New PC for sale - PRICE DROP

Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:16:00 GMT

hey you live in brissy! cool, me too

USB 3.0 not working?

Sat, 15 Jan 2011 17:32:54 GMT

I Wanna know when entries close, and they plan to announce the finals. This isn't stated anywere... (and i can't remember the time frames from last year...)

Need corsair h70/50 mounting bracket

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:41:02 GMT

the other option is to go to somewhere like say the bolt place, and take in that bolt that they use to and get 4x bolts and matching metal and silcon washers. @ least then it wont matter what top braket or mount you use, you'll be able to mount it regardless. the only thing you'l need to watch is if there's any components were these mount holes are, but not to use too small a washer as you want to spread the mounting pressure a little.

Need corsair h70/50 mounting bracket

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:43:05 GMT

BTW over xmas, make of mine gor 4.2ghz out of his i7 920. With the stock cooler. Was stable, which is cool, considering it was running @ 99degC. Of corse, it was just to see if he could, and it's now @ stock speeds, but not bad :) i wonder how well the sandbridge stuff OCs

USB 3.0 not working?

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:44:13 GMT

well... one of my posted systems made the dec. issue of APC, so i'm guessing that means something. though it didn't actually say it made the semi's.

Upgrading PC - Where to start?

Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:42:12 GMT

I guess it depends on the amount you wanna spend. don't skimp. Also might be worth the effort replacing the PSU too. they only really last 1.5-2yrs, so if you've just upgraded youre video card, that wil draw more power, then the old PSU that's working know, might not work as well later on. the more current you pull thro a PSU, the less time it will last, to the point were you pull too much current, and the system wont post. i like the Fractal design cases <- they are about 150-170 depending on were you get it. personally, the Coolermaster CM690 chassis is shareed with the Fractal design above and the Aerocool BX-500. All 3 cases are nice to work on, (i have a CM690), have good air flow, and look good, in a minimalistic way. Also look @ the Coolermaser Scout, the ThermalTake Armour A60 or A90 and maybe an Antec 900, (personally not a hug fan of the 900 ...) All of the above are well built, cool well, will fit a 6870 and are sub $200, (i think the most expensive would be the BX-500, but it does have a fan controler, and will run 10x 12-14cm fans or something equally as stupid)

New Parts Old Hardware (Motherboard)Upg^

Fri, 14 Jan 2011 15:09:17 GMT

From experience, you wont find anything faster that what you are running, and still using DDR2 memory... Hell, you'll be hard pressed to find a motherboard that's NOT a g31 that runs DDR2 memory. Try and find a p45 or X38 or X48 board on Ebay. OR just buy some DDR3 memory, bought some the other day @ $32 a 2gb stick. it's cheap. Would almost say, stick with it, save some $$$ and buy motherboard/Gen 1 i5 cpu/ram. Now that sandy bridge is now available, ppl will be selling off the old gen1 stuff i'm sure.

What small/light laptop for graphics?

Sun, 09 Jan 2011 22:20:20 GMT

i use a Lenovo t61, with a nvidia NVS140 card. it's 2.5yrs old, and i use CS4 all the time. it's also has a 14.1inch widescreen, and doesn't weigh much at all, (about 2kg). i think the current laptop is the T410. they aren't cheap, starting @ $1800 but i love this thing, (t61), and when it dies, i'll replace it another T-series lenovo

Touch screens - duel monitor setups

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:23:55 GMT

i dont see why not. the touch element of the screen in just like a mouse really, and you can run more then one mouse. Stupid thing to do, but you can do it. if you were planning to run a setup with 2x multi touch screens, i think you'll need a pretty beefy system to make it run nice. Not really sure what sort of CPU time it takes to run multi touch in windows 7... i'd guess a bit

Asus laptop screen trouble

Sat, 25 Dec 2010 20:16:48 GMT

hey, i've had zero issues with ASUS laptops, personally. infact the only problem i've had was with my sis-in-laws, and it got wet. they replaced the m/board that day, had it back in 3days. THAT said, my boss has a Lambo VX5, which as been in to get fixed 4 times. Same thing. BASICALLY this time, it went back to get the monitor cable replace with a new version. ... my current laptop is a IBM Lenovo T61. This is the best laptop i've ever had. my next one will be a lenovo. They are expensive. but i live by you get what you pay for. even in this day and age, when you can buy an I7 laptop for sub $1000, i wouldn't spend less then $2k on a lappy.

USB 3.0 not working?

Sat, 25 Dec 2010 20:21:00 GMT

that's pooh. you know, if you dont care about warrenty, buy an external caddy with usb3, pull apart the seagate one, and usb3 you have. I bet that usb3 thingy you need for you're flex thing is going to be just as expensive. marketing... i hate it. does it have E-Sata? use that maybe? meh...

USB 3.0 not working?

Mon, 27 Dec 2010 08:42:50 GMT

it's cos @ Esata's time of release, not all motherboards supported SATA hotswap, so Esata wasn't as convenient as usb. And considering that most ppl's Networks' aren't running any faster then USB2 rates anyway, (10-20mbps), it didn't matter, (typically, usb2 can transfer 25mbps) we've managed 100mbps sustained between 2x win7 machines, and a layer3 managed switch, and jumbo frames setup.

USB 3.0 not working?

Fri, 31 Dec 2010 02:23:19 GMT

i was looking for a cheap 1tb ext hdd for my sis in law, and on lasoo i found the usb3.0 addaptor you need listed out of Officeworks for $39.

choosing a motherboard.

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:03:59 GMT

all p55 chipset boards pretty much the same, with the option of SLI, which is the reason why some are more expensive. some have USB3, some have extra SATA controllers, that's actually about it. with the mem and PCI express controller on the CPU, it's really the extra features that you'll need to think about when chosing which board is for you. Personaly, if you're only going to run 1 Video card, and not planning on overclocking you're CPU, then the entry level Asus or Gigabyte m/boards will be fine. Yes you could wait for the new chipsets, but no one really knows what they will be worth, and as you're chosen the i5, i'd guess you're looking at building a budget allrounder or gaming machine. i'd run an i7 870, 8gb Gskill pack, 6870, Asus P7P55-LX, 3x Seagate 1tb HDD's in RAID 5, and an Cosair TX950 psu, You can choose the case, throw in a Samsung Bluray reader, and you'd spend about $1700. Including a copy of windows 7 HP 64bit. The i5 is only $100 cheaper.

Making 2 PC's into one?

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:12:54 GMT

When you say better board and chipset, do you mean newer? Is it the same family? and they are all of the same family CPU? if you answered yes to all of the above, and you're trying to get the install that you have on the HDD from pc1 to boot into pc2, swap the drives, make sure the network controller works, (install the drivers if win7 doesn't install one anyway), run windows update, and everything should work.

Heat sink for Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 10:58:09 GMT

to the board it's self? or the CPU on it? Why is it an issue? what are you doing? Why can't/don't want to add fans? need more info

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 11:05:55 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]I will be going the supercharged root more than likely sequential rather tahn roots type as i like the idea of boosy rising with the rev's and its mroe responsive than a turbo down low[/quote] Sequential blower? never heard of it. there's roots, wipple and vortex types that are main stream. @ a guess, you're talking about a Vortex or Rotax type, sorta 1/2 a turbo on a pully. There's a kit from the US that bolts onto my car, from a company called Kraftwerks, that uses that one, the torque curve is almost identical to a turbo @ lower RPM's but doesn't peek like a turbo. SOOO you get the worst of both worlds. If you're going to do it, use a Roots type, you get a nice, even, torque curve, giving lots of mis range power and torque, you just wont create as much power in the top end. without knowing how you drive you're car, this may be perfect for you, it may not. [quote=Chris.Lampard]Hell both our engines are 1.5L so they will fill fairly quickly anyways if the turbo root i'd reccomend at max a t35 but a t28rs or t28 KAI would be gold[/quote] Garret GT25 Ball Bearing. We've used one of these, (or such as the one available 10-15yrs ago, i'm sure Garret's made some changes since) on a 1.8 Camera engine in a N13 pulsar, and it started making boost @ 1300rpm. it's all in the tuning. [quote=Chris.Lampard]Yeah i never liked the turbo FWD setup it makes the car undrivable in the wet and the boost may kick in to hard and you will have to remove your power steering to prevent shoulder dislocation. I have seen this personally with a N14 SSS Pulsar with a J-Spec GTi-R front cut and some work.[/quote] ok, i used to have an n14, and that was probably just the suspension setup. Stock, or with the typical king spring super lows and stock shocks, they understeared pretty bad Mine had full custom coilover setup, camber caster was set perfectly, (1.5deg front, .75deg rear, 5deg caster) My last performance car was a AE92 Rolla, with a4AGZE Blacktop, Roots supercharger, 125kw, 250nm, didn't have understear problems, it was running a 1way LSD. If the Jazz is an issue, i know what i need to do, i've found all the chassis mods on ebay, my sis lives in the UK so i'll get her to get me a Quafe 1way, found were in the US i need to order big brakes.... it's sorted... (it's been off the road for nearly 6months now, so i've had AGES to look all this stuff up)

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 11:23:30 GMT

OH and the steering thing The Jazz has a computer controlled hydrolics, techinically to help with that anyway.... i think

USB 3.0 not working?

Tue, 21 Dec 2010 16:10:55 GMT

hang on... Cable you're bought? didn't the HDD come with a cable? Yes, you'll more then likely need a USB3 rated cable, and no, you probably wont be able to use an of the shelf USB extention cable. Case's need specific hardware to make the front panel USB3, so i'm sure whatever problem exists needing this, exists for cables to. you DID try the HDD with whatever cable shipped with it, on it's own yes?

USB 3.0 not working?

Wed, 22 Dec 2010 16:03:07 GMT

[quote=Seanay00]the external HDD came with a USB 2.0 cable and ive brought an upgrade USB 3.0 cable. it's definitely a USB 3.0 cable but just wont power up the hdd. [/quote] ... you mean, this external USB3.0 HDD shipped with a USB2.0 cable, and to make it work USB3.0 you needed to buy one? That's rich! Dont mean to put doubt on your technical ability, but, you ARE sure it's a USB3 HDD, and not a USB2.0 one right? odd stuff... i guess the hardest thing is not having on-hand another USB3 device to check the system's port. Wish i could help more

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:22:49 GMT

miss my car... HEY LOOK! post number 200!!! woot

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:34:59 GMT

I want to apologise for the gawd aweful photo of me in the the latest APC mag. Got a phone call Late the afternoon this was going to print, and was @ my son's daycare xmas party. "Sorry, we need a pic of you, and we have 1/2 hour before we go to print. can you send me one?" "Ummm, NO? all i can do is take a pic on my iphone" .... sooo ask my wife to take a photo... CLICK "Here" My mouth's open, 1/2 way throu saying "thanks" after trying to explain what it's for. AND she wouldn't re-take the foto. RAH. soo... to all you reader's of the mag, i'm REALLY sorry.

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Fri, 17 Dec 2010 13:28:53 GMT

ok, i tried to keep the software i used simple/readily available. OS is XP home, so no i can't REALLY give you that, thou i only used that cos of the Wifi card i'm useing, (read below) The audio control is just itunes, and i use my ipod touch to control that with the free remote software. The ECU program is the Haltech software specific to the ECU that i am/will be using once the car is up and running, (still waiting for some parts). Free from the Haltech website. This software is what's used to actually tune the ECU, but i'll be running it in Data logging mod, and you can set it up to display gauges in this mode. You problably wont be able to get anything to read the OBD2 port on you're stock ECU. This is something you'll have to look @ yourself. The ASUS Wifi card is Specific, as it come with Access Point software, negating the need for a stand alone wifi router or Access point. Something the reviewers failed to pickup, thou i did point it out. so BASICALLY, the only thing that's not available online for free is XP home. I'm sure you have a spare copy of xp floating around. The CF to IDE card readers are available on EBAY for sub $3, thou looking back, should have bought a SATA to SD card reader. little more $$$ for the reader but the SD Flash mem is cheaper/easier to get. (it is slower thou). The other option, if you're not going to worry about the ECU control, you can use Boxee or XMBC linux distro's, and a Standalone WIFI access point, (finding a DC-DC converter for power for the box should just be a trip to Jaycar), and use a control app for te touch/iphone. The boxee one's free, and the BEST XBMC one i've come across was only 2.49 when i bought it.

Car/Media PC in this months APC mag

Fri, 17 Dec 2010 13:40:38 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]i drive a suzuki ignis sport same setup as the jazz high rev's low displacement[/quote] ACTUALLY, the Jazz doesn't rev that high, and the way that Honda built the L15A1 engine's pretty awesome. look it up. 82-88kw, 140-150nm, 1.5L single cam, 16v vtech engine, makeing max torque @ 4400rpm, redline 6200-7000RPM depending on model. There are a couple of off-the-shelf bolt on turbo and super charger kits, that @ 8psi boost make 130-140kw, 210nm. I'm aiming for 200kw, 8500rpm redline, 15-18psi. Forged internals, APR headbolts, full custom turbo kit, custom clutch setup... very few ppl do what i've done, the typical mod for this model Jazz overseas is an engine swap with an Accord Euro engine, (K24A). Shifts the car's weight center forward thou... Jazz actually handles well, i just hope the stock Dif will holdup, so i can spend the money i have set asside for that on chassis mods instead. AND this will be a daily drive. one day i'll pull it off the road, and it'll be my dedicated track car.. :)

New PC

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:41:50 GMT

yep... hence that 1-2 FPS @ the end of my post *grin*

laptop recommendations please

Thu, 11 Nov 2010 12:43:00 GMT

Seriously?? you're looking at this all wrong. You need to - a) Deside on a budget. I could quote you a lappy that's AWESOME but $1000's outside you're price range, wasting mine and your time. b) Go to were ever you can an play with as many laptops you can inside the set budget. Goto Harvey's, WOW, JB. it's like buy a car, If you don't like the feel of the thing, you wont like to play with it. c) Google. search for the Cheapest place you can find that sell's the model that you have desided to go with. you'll save afew bucks, and you wont be soo worried "buying online" if it comes to it, as you've already touched the system. d) Again, like a car, make sure it's easy to fix, or parts aren't too expensive if things go wrong. So you're making sure it's got a good rep, or long warrenty. PERSONALLY, i've been a HUGE fan of Asus laptops. Until recently, it's all i would personally buy. I'm pluging away now on a Lenovo T61, which is pretty much the best laptop i've ever had, and it came with the 3 yr warrenty. To cut a long story short, after aquireing the laptop from a client, (she wanted an excuse to buy one with a larger screen, as this one's only a 14inch wide), i looked up the warrenty on it, and as it had a little under a yr left, i sent it away, and it got fixed. I've pulled the thing apart to do a few upgrades, (CPU, memory...), and they build it very modular. Making it easy to fix. But that also makes them a bit expensive. all things to think about. BTW, Apple and i'm pretty sure Sony laptops are Price protected. Meaning they will not be much cheaper, (give or take like $10), depending on were you buy it, and they wont be able to haggle on the price. But this will mean that a good retailer will be happy to Value Add. so if you DO want a sony or apple devices, ask for free stuff

New PC

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 11:01:40 GMT

[quote=azepromidi]i think in running a THERMALTAKE Power Express 450watt Toughpower to run my ASUS EN-GTX480 1536MB 384bit DDR5 D-SUB - DVI - HDMI - HDCP MODEL : ENGTX480/2DI do you think it would run this we the box said min 600 walts[/quote] This will work, as this PSU is only 4 the video card.... from what i remember, the 480's "only" draw a little less then 300w on it's own, it should be right. The 600w min rec is for the main PSU, in lou of a CPU pulling 90-130w, 30-50w for the motherbord, and about 20w per hdd, CD-rom, sound card.... You get the idea. If you're planing to run a second 480, spend the extra few $$$ and get the 600w ver of that PSU. worth the effort. THAT said... you ARE running a 1200w PSU... i'm running a pair of 465's in SLI on an "old" striker 2 board, and only running a 750w PSU, (mind you it is a silverstone Zues, with a single 66amp 12v rail...) i'd buy the Cosair 650HX, (i think, the modular 650 Corsair), and the 600w Power express. Then there will be no power droop when your card's start drawing full current.

New PC

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 11:07:24 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Also i would swap out the GTX 480 for a GTX 580 from the saving on the power supply you have chosen to the one i recommend. Also its much cooler and uses less power[/quote] It's not MUCH better on power draw. it DOES run cooler and quieter. I would buy this over the 480. 480's are so last month (I've only just bought my 465's... should have waited a few weeks....) [quote=Chris.Lampard]i doubt the soundcards needed with the onboard VIA VT2020 codec on that ASUS board[/quote] THAT depends intirely on what he's pumping the sound throu. i'm a bit of an audiophile, and, even using the Optical out on the strikerboard, which should JUST be the signal that's been encoded in the system, with the DA converter on the amp doing the conversion, but that's not always the case, (i can hear a slight hiss... hate it) running an ASUS D1 sound card to a Sony K1600 amp. Completely different sound. The DAC's on that XONAR Sound card are the same, (or very simular), to the ones found in high end hifi systems, and if you're planning to a good set of stereo speakers, or a studio grade headset, you should notice a huge difference in sound quality. If you're planing to run them off a set of Logitech X530's, then you're nuts. The Asus D2 will do the job... Most on-board sound cards run software DAC, and this chews a little CPU time. a 1/2 decent sound card, (even a $30 PCI-E XFI Extreme audio card is better then on-board), will free up that CPU time 9 times out of 10, with a performance gain of up to a WHOLE 1-2FPS! :)

Shops in Brisbane hiring Builders.

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 11:36:27 GMT

Sorry bud, i live on the southside. There's a new PC shop open beside Gamedude in Slacks Creek, (Springwood area, near Ikea), where the diskshop used to be. They might be looking for techs. I know Gamedude aren't looking... (well as far as i know they aren't looking for more staff....) i'd start giving your resume 2 EVERYONE in the bris metro area, as it's comming up to Xmas, and they Maybe looking for staff. If you're good with ppl, and can do sales, you shouldn't have tooo much trouble getting ajob (i used to be sales manager @ computer company, and being able to sell ppl stuff is more important then being able to build computers. that's just a bonus)

My Laptop is having problems

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 12:38:21 GMT

if the machine boots into windows, you might be able to un-install the update. control panel > programs and features > click View installed updates. If you can find the KB that's intalled that's broken the system, uninstall it, then run windows update again, it should re-install and work. it sounds more like that the update didn't install properly, due to a corrupt download. once you're got this going, you'll need to activate system restore - right click on computer, click properties, click on advance system setting, and click on system protection on the top tabs. Make sure it's configured propery if you can't un-install the update, unfornately, you'll probably have to reinstall win7. There's no system repair install like there was in XP, and it's unlikely that you'll be able to get the system repairer on the disk to fix the problem, (you can try, but it'll probably take less time to re-install the system, honestly)

nvidia motherboard chipset

Fri, 05 Nov 2010 10:58:48 GMT

Hey, has anyone noticed that nvidia's not really in the main board business anymore? i mean, they still have available the nf200 chip, but you really dont see that anymore. there's a p55 chipset board that with that, gives you 3 way SLI, but that's it. (mainstream anyway) I wonder what they are doing? They can't side with AMD anymore, as since they bought out ATI, that's a conflict of interests, and if i remember, nvidia burnt a bridge with intel when they were with AMD and all they really seem to be doing is selling lisencing to companyt to activate SLI on the intel chipsets. i'm sure there's alot more involved in this, alot of politics in the background that we're not seeing... But an current Intel nforce would be awesome. i wonder if that will happen anyway, considering AMD have canned the ATI brand, and since the current intel chipsets only support Xfire natively, wouldn't that be almost a confict of interests? Want's intel to work close with nvidia to make awesome gaming boards, without Xfire! and... GO!

motherboards

Thu, 11 Nov 2010 12:26:39 GMT

ANYTHING running an X Intel Chipset, (like the 955x 975x x38 x48), will be on a higher end of the scale, and usually the manufactors like to add perks to their boards. You've spent 250+ on a high end board, it should OC Well right? List of boards i've had great success OC'ing with, (all off which i used a HSF, not Water cooling) DFI Infinity 975x - P4 805 - 2.6 - 3.8ghz stable. Celron E1200 1.6ghz - 3.0ghz stable, (Same benchmark's as a C2D E6850) C2D E6600 - 2.4 - 3.4ghz stable Abit X38 Quad GT - C2D E6400 - 2.12ghz - 3.5ghz stable Noctua NF-12 HSF used for the above. Currently running a Striker II Formula board with an E6550 @ 3.12ghz stable and I'm "only" running a Zalman CNPS7500-AlCu cooler. WHEN I can be bothered pulling apart the comp, again, i'll put on the better HSF, and see if i can get more out of the E6550.

Asus laptop screen trouble

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:35:09 GMT

take to asus service center. if out of warrenty, bin, and buy a new laptop. This could be as simple as the ground wire is lose, to the Video card's failing. I was giving an asus laptop once, with simular issues. Loose ground wire. It was loose cos the screw had threaded. Bigger thread screw, fix problems! 2 months later the Mobo died... Seriously, if it's under warrenty take it and get it fixed. if it's not, unless you can troll ebay and find a new screen on the cheap, and wanna take the punt that that's the problem, not the video card, (which you wont be able to replace, even if it's a GPU module on the mobo), splerg on a new lappy for xmas. Like that Acer that's reviewed on the front page. THAT sound's like a great buy

can not get my webpage to upload images

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 11:37:55 GMT

OR just do it the old fashioned way and FTP it via filezilla or something :) (i hate web-based stuff like that... try to aviod it if i can... i'm a control freak really... hell, i use DOS commands were i can, moving a mouse around is slower then typing on a k/board) (... i guess i HAVE been programing a computer of some sort or discription for over 20 years... wrote my first program @ 11 on a C64... thous were the days...)

Mini Multi-Media blueray system

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 13:11:40 GMT

How bout this - Ultra small media box thoughts? 1x GIGABYTE GA-H55N-USB3 mITX s/1156 board - $149 1x Intel i5 650 - $201 1x WD 250 2.5inch drive - $109 1x Kingston DDR3 4g pack (2x2gb) - $75 1x Antec ISK300-150 case - $109 (Prices listed from Gamedude computers) - $643 1x Laptop Blu-ray player. had trouble finding a listing for them, as GD dont sell the sony they used to, but on Ebay they ranged from 99-150, and EYO sell a UJ-141 extrenal Panasonic that you would pull apart for the drive @ about $180. soo... tiny tiny, but powerful and quiet enuf, the 80mm fans in the case set to low are fairly quiet, but i'd replace them with something a little better... add that to a decent set of 5.1 computer speakers, install [url=http://xbmc.org/]XBMC [/url]or [url=http://www.boxee.tv/]BOXEE [/url]on it, and you have an awesome, iphone/ipod touch controled media center/lifestyle system. ... would work our @ about $1000 with speakers and the blu-ray player and windows if you didn't wanna use the free linux distros of the above.

Asus laptop screen trouble

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 23:36:36 GMT

That's fair, but i was trying to say that it could be any number of posible issues... like... the ground wire's loose, (easy fix) the monitors connection cable's loose, (easy fix) the video card's overheating, (fixable, clean the HS,replace the fan...) the contoller for the monitor's failed, (not fixable, need's replacing) and it goes on. like i was saying, fixed one with the same sort of problem, loose ground wire. My current laptop started presenting the same symptoms, but it was under warrenty, so i sent it away, and the replaced the screen. IF you wanna venture into pulling the laptop apart, (not a feat for a novice, really...), go for it. honestly sounds like a cable's loose. If not, get it RA'd if under warrenty, or bin it, cos you'll end up spending more on it getting it fixed then buying a new laptop.

Mini Multi-Media blueray system

Thu, 02 Dec 2010 09:43:40 GMT

... woah. need to point out to the boys @ GD they need to work on the pricing a little. (if you haven't already guessed, i used to work there, and pretty good freinds with the owner still) That case will only run a laptop optical drive. sorry. I was thinking about it yesterday/last nite you could run a external bluray playing anyway. would be cheaper, and it's then usable on other systems. Run them side by side... would still look trick. Still would use Something that would let me run iphone/touch controls. seeing as logitech in their infinate wisdom has canned the Dinovo Edge...

can not get my webpage to upload images

Thu, 02 Dec 2010 09:45:46 GMT

AND you're awake almost as late as me... over clocked my q8400 last nite/this morning. 3.9ghz post, unstable, 3.75ghz stable. over stock 2.66. need to run a little more voltage, but need to upgrade cooling. the Zalman 7500 i'm running's not enuf. pushing for a 4ghz stable OC. hehehe kinda off topic.... :) should start a "best of overclocking" thread... might do that when i get to work... waiting for my ride.... STILL waiting on parts for my car... it's been off the road since end of june... rah. guess that's my fault for trying to build a fast car out of a shopping cart, (aiming for a 200kw Honda Jazz)

Best Overclock

Thu, 02 Dec 2010 10:01:50 GMT

[b]Disclaimer[/b] - [i]We do not condone or encourage overclocking or running your CPU out of manufacturor's specifications. This will void the warranty on your CPU, motherboard, and in some case's your memory.[/i] OK - Last night i pushed me new q8400 to 3.9ghz, post, but unstable, (currently running 3.75ghz stable. I've read 4.2ghz is posible, so i'm pushing for 4ghz. needed to run more voltage, but need to work on the cooling a little. Tossing up whether i just use my Noctua cooler, or i modify am old bigwater system my boss has. He was going to bin it, i grabbed it... :) There's like 1.5 kits here... ... my system's heavy enuf thou... So far, my oc's have been - s/754 3200 @ 3.1ghz water cooled s/775 p4 805 @ 3.8ghz air cooled s/775 e6600 @ 3.2ghz air cooled and recently on this striker board s/775 e6400 @ 3.5ghz air cooled s/775 e6550 @ 3.5ghz air cooled <- slightly faster... air cooled = Noctua NH-12U watercooled = Custom copper CPU NB and GPU water blocks, Motorcycle radiator, 2x 12cm fans, and an ehiem pump. None of my overclocks were pushed thermally more then 30% over stock heat under load. Hell the 3200 ran 4degC over ambient under load. If the system HADN'T weight nearly 50kg, i would have kept it. Feel free to Share/Gloat!!!

Best Overclock

Sun, 05 Dec 2010 00:37:20 GMT

[quote=Wraith] got a athlon ii x2 245 up to 4.1ghz but that was very unstable and ran at about 57c under heavy load with stock cooling. runs sable at 3.825ghz now though. [/quote] That doesn't seem right. the temp's too ow for it to be unstable. You probably didn't change any of the volages for the CPU and NB and ram right? or you didn't set the ram times/speed before you changed the FSB, (or equiv). maybe. i haven't OC'd an amd CPU in years

Upgrading PC - Where to start?

Sun, 05 Dec 2010 00:42:54 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Power Supply first though if you want the graphics upgrade however for a instant boost right now get yourself the 2 x 64gig SSD's and put them in Raid 0 and do a fresh install of Win 7 53 bit and i can garuntee you wont know yourself[/quote] Windows 7 53 bit? i want! ... personally... for a budget, i dont think SSD's are the way to go personally. Not yet anyway... Pair of 500gb Seagate 7200.12's in raid stripe, (if that's not what you're running already...), would be the way to go. If you do go the SSD's dont forget they are 2.5inch drives, and make sure you can get them to mount in you're case, (as it's a compac, or a dell, i dont remember, and am too lazy to right now go back and look, might be hard to mount in there crappy case you're using *grin*) PSU and Video card would be the best bet personally, and maybe a better HSF is you wanna try OC'ing. That said, that board'll be poo, and you wont get much out of it. personally, that sounds like an OK system, what are you trying to do that needes the performance boost?? Games, then yes, get new video card. i'm guessing you're tryin to play WOW and the new patch wont rung properly? :P

Mini Multi-Media blueray system

Sun, 05 Dec 2010 00:47:17 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Antec's box was to restrictive for me and incurred extra costs just to make it fit.[/quote] What do you mean by too resctrive? if you mean the fact it runs 2.5inch drives, point taken, BUT unless you're going to use it to do the downloads of the illiegale torrents, then you don't need more then 250-320gb. UNLESS you've got 1000CD's that you have ripped lossless... :) either case would do really... The other thing you could run is a Fractal design Array R2 case, with an external blu-ray player. that case is cool, thou over priced. look it up :)

Upgrading PC - Where to start?

Sun, 05 Dec 2010 00:49:01 GMT

OH, and again, that crappy case may limit your Video card choice. Take it with you when you are buying the card, and ask the sales person, (one must be politically correct these days), to make sure it fits.

Best Overclock

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:26:52 GMT

ok, after replacing the Zalman HSF with my noctua HSF, added 3x 100cfm+ fans, modded the case so i have 2x 12cm fans blowing directly across the northbridge/power rail section of the m/board, and over and across the 2x video card, i still couldn't get more then 3.75ghz stable on the Q8400. I must have read a E8400 OC @ 4.2ghz, as a Q8400... *shrugg* Thou, my system now runs 20-30degC cooler under load. The CPU's now running @ 42-45degC running unigine Heaven benchmark difference of about 20degC, Northbridge runs @ 70degC, over the 95 that it used to, and my video cards idle @ 45-50degC and, again during the heaven benchmark, hit 70. Consdiering @ one stage, one of my cards was idleing @ 70 deg c and hit 90 under load, happy with that. I did cracked open and upgraded the thermal grease on the 2x video cards. Using Artic Cooling MX-2. Best grease i've used so far. i hear they are up to MX-4, or it's due to come out soon. can't see it being THAT much better then the mx-2. DEFINATELY rate it over the Zalman stuff and artic silver 3.

Upgrading PC - Where to start?

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:29:50 GMT

just look for a Video card that will fit. i believe the now AMD/ATI 6850's aren't that long. a 5770 would fit for sure, and that should be enuf to play boarder lands. AMD/ATI cards are a bit sorter, usually, then nvidia cards @ the mid/high levels, so you'll probably find something there.

SATA II hdd not working

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:40:05 GMT

ok...Sometimes the Windows installer can't see a HDD if there is a partition on it that windows can't recognize if the drive has been used @ some stage in a dynamic array in windows say, you'll need to "clean" the disk before you go on. in the windows 7 intaller, click repair, then cancel everything that you get on the screen till you get a list of this you can do, with one of them that looks like a command prompt, (i think they call it recovery console in the list. i dont pay too much attention to the text, i know were it is...) [b]DISCLAIMER[/b] - [i]The following insctructions will completely remove ALL data off the harddrive you are working on. Well, at least to the point were it will be very difficult to recover. BE CAREFULL, and i do not take responsibility if you screw it up[/i] once you get a command prompt, type in -> DISKPART once in diskpart type -> LIST DISK should list the HDD's available. IF you can see the HDD that you've installed, take note of the drive number, and type -> SELECT DISK IF this is the only HDD in the system, then that should be easy. If you can't see the drive we're trying to clean, turn off the machine, and take the whole system into the ppl you bought the drive from, and tell them you can't install windows on it. Takeing the machine in will hopefully stop the posibility of them saying, it's your fault. once you've selected the RIGHT drive type -> CLEAN IF you select the wrong one, you've just destroyed the partition, and lost ALL The data on that drive. that's me telling you to BE CAREFULL!!! cleaning the disk wont take long. Type -> EXIT to get out of diskpart, then EXIT again, to get out of the command prompt. Click on the red X at the top, and it should bring you back to the windows installation start screen. THAT SHOULD WORK. Has for me 100% of the time. YES i have cleaned the wrong disk, and yes i was a pain to get the data back.

Upgrading PC - Where to start?

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 11:43:04 GMT

SATA II hdd not working

Tue, 07 Dec 2010 10:48:30 GMT

ok, the windows installer didn't have a driver to talk to the sata3 controller.

Core Temps?

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:48:53 GMT

ok, we do all realize that the common Intel CPU core has a shutdown temp of around 80deg C, with a thermal failing temp upwards of 95deg C, (you hit that without it shutting down, you'll probable do some damage to the chip) Also, unless you're using some magical thermal grease, it's imposible to run a computer below abient temps. (without a permithias, (i can't speel that properly, but the one's that run a full air-con compressor), TEC, dry ice or liquid NO2) you're CPU shouldn't be running more then 5degC above ambeint temp, @ idle, if you use the stock HSF, on the 1st installation. If you pull it off, and disturb the termal grease, and don't re-apply, then it'll probly jump up a degC or 2. Honestly, if, under load, you're CPU's hitting the high 30's low 40's, your machine's working perfectlly. back in the day, a 3ghz Prescott P4 would run, underload 70degC. They had a fail temp of, i think 105degC. PPL freaked out about this, as the AMD's ran soo much cooler, so Intel worked real hard to bring these temps down. There was still 35degC headroom availble before fail, so it in it's self wasn't a problem, but it was putting a bit of stress on the caps around the chip, (why I believer there has been a push to solid caps recently) ANYway... unless the HSF of you're I5 isn't getting any cool air, or there's no exhaust fans in your case geting the hot air out, (HSF is just a heat pump, and is only as effective as the air around it), you shouldn't EVER have any problems. If not, check to make sure all 4 sides of the HSF are attached properly. if one's not, it'll be making enought contact to work, but not @ full effentcy.

Current Master Builder systems

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:55:43 GMT

ahahah... Just watched the last years master builder video... Laughed when i saw them struggle with case, laughed as i saw the guy put the mem in the wrong banks, laughed at them reading the manuals, laughed again, when it wouldn't post, almost fell off the chair when they commented that they all, or 2 other's anyway, did the same thing. Wow... i really need to get in to the finals... Sure fire winner :) sorry... (hahaha)

graphics card for compaq preario

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:24:08 GMT

.... pretty much anything that will fit in the case you have, (only an issue if it's a low profile case), and you Might need to upgrade the PSU maybe... It'll come down to budget. Might be a good idea to replace the PSU anyway... If you can. it's old enuf to have started to wear... and a bit more current draw due to the new Video card might mean it might fail soon then if you left it

Rate the good and bad IT

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:36:48 GMT

[quote=Halcon]No company is really honest to prove the consumers can trust on it.[/quote] And... every man and his dog pirates software. [quote=Halcon]Apple is pure hype, it was on the brink of bankruptcy until the opportunist of Steve Jobs came up with useless ideas to make a very big profit for his company...[/quote] The only thing i really disagree with that Apple does is sue EVERYONE if they even think you're building something that looks like something they have patented. Not sure if anyone realizes, but Apple have a patent on Conductive touch screen technology, meaning the Touch screen on their devices will ALWAYS be better. And will sue you if you use a conductive not resistive type screen. or at least TRY And sue you. [quote=Halcon]Microsoft became the biggest monopoly on earth for its Windows operating System, because around 90% of earth population has any of the versions installed on it computers ranging from Windows 3.x, 95, 98, Millenium, NT, 2000, XP, 2003 and Vista; to the possible scenario to buy or upgrade to Windows 7 (any variant from Home to Ultimate or 2008 (for medium to large business) This is real evil.[/quote] but this wouldn't have happened is linux was easy to use. There must be a really good reason 90% of ppl have windows installed. hmmm maybe cos MS spent billions developing a code base, (.net and DirectX), so software can be easily and quickly developed, and worked in close ties with hardware manufacturers so that EVERYTHING, (well, almost), works, without having to make sure that you only use certain hardware and softer. (like alot of linux distros, OSX included). There's a lot more to this then you think... i think. [quote=Halcon]Adobe Systems has the same approach to Microsoft, selling overpriced software suites with activation routine. Autodesk has overpriced software and is abusing of its position to get away with it. [/quote] I can't think of anyone that makes a more power bit of software then what these to companies specialize in. And it wouldn't be so expensive is ppl didn't steal the software. But that's partially their fault. The activation's ludicisly easy to bypass [quote=Halcon]Symantec has the same strategy as the other two companies, again is too bad that it has swallowed a lot of companies for a bigger slice of the pie.[/quote] I can't think of any software i'd rather NOT use then symantec stuff. It's slow, bloated, the AV is easy to bypass, and there's so much out there that's better, and usually Free. Norton's Ghost's cool thou. At the end of the day, if company's DIDN'T Make money, they wouldn't exist. The only company that i can think of is Google that's Good and Kind and Gives back to the community in the way it does. BUT you try and Adverise with then, and you end up paying throu the nose. Money needs to be made somewere.

Rate the good and bad IT

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:40:37 GMT

wow... that was a long post. I want to appologize to who ever read all of that, and got a nose bleed. Sorry

Well its finally finished.. Well kinda

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 15:40:03 GMT

[quote=kingy2511]Cant say i have!. I would try, not usng Crossfire, just run one GPU nd see if the prob persists.. If it does, i would take another stab at ur operating system.. I am thugh having a few problems with Explorer. But i dnt think its related to a build fault.. I'll keep my eye out though? :).. PS sorry for late reply lol [/quote] i read it was specific to my rev. of the board, the 2x Sapphire cards i bought, the fact they are in CF, (yes, out of CF, no problems), and that i'm was using an I7 CPU. Not that it matters anymore, i've sold that system in parts, and currently running an pair of GTX465's And specifially, it wasn't the cards, or the board, just the combination of the parts i bought. The board now runs a pair of 9800GTX's now, no problems, the 2x 5770's run perfectly in an Abit X38 Quad GT board... Cos it was sooo specific, no-one wanted to try and fix it.

WHERE IS THE BOTTLENECK PLEASE HELP

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 15:45:47 GMT

[quote=JK666][b]3X[/b] 2.00 GB Form Factor DIMM Frequency 1333 MHz Manufacturer kingston Enabled Size 2.00 GB [b]Total Bit Width 64 b Data Bit Width 64 b[/b] [/quote] Could it possibly be the fact that your system's running in single channel mode cos you've got an odd number of memory moduals installed? That'll pretty much 1/2 your memory bandwidth, and so a pretty obvious bottle neck Dual channel should say 128bit BTW... :) Remove the stick out of slot B1, (think that's right for an AMD), and you should run faster. (or buy another stick.... pulling one out is the cheapest option to prove my [b]theory [/b]thou

Explorer :/

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 15:56:06 GMT

ok, without a complete fault description, and without know when it happens, is it random, if you click IE and it crashes before it loads a page, what page you're going to blah blah blah, it's hard to say "click this, and you're sorted!" BUT Today i stumbled on the same behaviour, cos a site that one of the guys here were trying to get to was triping IE's Data Exection Protection. DEP is, like, Packet level anti virus. If a webpage tries to access a section of memory that it shouldn't, then IE go "Ummm, negatitory", and "Crashes" IE to stop serious damage to the system. Kinda like a BSOD for IE. IF that's it, Firefox wont fix the problem, Chrome problably just wont load the website at all, and without knowing too much about safari and Opera, i'm not too supprised that they do work, considering it's very easy, from what i've read, to hack a MAC via a website. hope this helps?

How can I unlock DVD region setting?

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 16:05:30 GMT

AT the end of the day, Unlocking a locked region DVD drive is pretty techinical, and considering you can change it 5 times before it locks, i'm guessing you have bought DVD's from overseas, and have multiple region's in your collection Considering you can buy a DVD burner now for less the $30, why not buy another one to play reg. 4 DVDs, leaving the on you have to play the DVD's that are the other reg. AGAIN this is an assumption on my part, that you do have multiple regions in you collection, but it makes sence from what you were saying. Something to think about yeah?

Rate the good and bad IT

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 16:18:10 GMT

... you all make the assumption that greed = evil. i guess it does... but all company's are greedy. if they weren't they've give us their stuff away for free, and then they don't exist. Evil would be Blizzard. 12million subscriptions. @ $10 US per month, that's 120millon USD PER MONTH in revinue, and you STILL HAVE TO BUY THE WOW CLIENT AND UPGRADES! Servers SO dont cost that much to run. (and from what I'VE heard, they dont pay their developers all that well either) Google is a Good company. they make money from a really good advertising model, and me, as the typical public, get everything for free. Hell, if you ask, Google are giving away google TV's to web developers so they can test that their code's compatable with the software. I guess @ the end of the day, you dont HAVE To play wow. you dont have to smoke or drive V, (i swear, i've kept V in business over the GFC). You dont Even have to use google, (but if you call me with a problem, and you have googled it first, i be's getting cranky). Fools and money are soon parted. .... If blizzard made a World of Starcraft, i'd play it, and pay you what ever you want... Do you hear me? DO you Hear me blizzard!!?!

Rate the good and bad IT

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 22:23:00 GMT

hmm... i dont think you there is anything authorities can do about "WOW" addiction. it's not a substance, it doesn't protray realistic violence, i even think they post, "you've been playing long enuf" messages now, so they are trying to be responable stand towards thous Krazy Koreans ... i have a wife and kid, i soo dont have the time to play anymore. But i understand were i'm coming from. it's not exactly the point i was trying to make, which was greedy = evil, greedy company = blizzard, blizzard = evil. with lazers and everthing. i honestly thought someone was going to post "Blizzards a gaming company, not a IT company" or something stupid like that.

Rate the good and bad IT

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 22:37:46 GMT

oh... and @ the end of the day, you can Apple bash, or Microsoft bash, but both have at least one great product. the iphone's an awesome product. but only as good as te app's you install. Sooo... it's the community that makes the iphone great. i can't think of an MS product or platform that can claim to that. and it works! MS phone's dont. Even the windows mobile 7 isn't great. BUT why would you make a system with only 1 mouse button? i mean What the? hopefully apple sticks to creating there cool mobile product, and MS keeps building a decent operating system itunes sucks thou, doesn't it? it works sooo much faster on the mac OS, maybe that's why, they make it laggy, so you wanna buy a mac so itunes doesn't suck so much... the new Mac book air is sexy looking thou. Still dont want one

Current Master Builder systems

Tue, 12 Oct 2010 17:15:23 GMT

Is it me? or does someone have a "thing", Asrock boards ATM? I mean, i've used Asrock boards, and in all honesty, ANYTHING that's in the budget class of motherboards no better then each other, but i still like sticking to "name brands" like Asus or Gigabyte for clients, regardless. Track records are the like. PERSONALLY, my fav manufacturor is DFI. it's a shame they are a little hard to get in AUST now-a-days. thoughts?

Upgrading my Computer - Need Help Please

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:15:15 GMT

ummm... if you're refering to her current machine, maybe it was a good machine... back before the time of the ipod, when you actually had to walk around with CD players and there was such things as TAPES! omg :) it's unlikely she's acutally be able to ADD 2 more gig of memory to that machine. maybe upgrade TO 2gb, and were 2x 1gb sticks of DDR1 memory will set you back upwards of $150, what's the point? i'd look @ a Celron E3300 CPU, Asus P5G41T-M LE, 2gb no-name DDR3 memory, benq DVD, $50 case, nVidia GTS250, 500gb Seagate 7200.12 HDD and a coipy of win7 HP for about $590. The celrons are a cut down dual core, they aren't really a different chip like the celrons of old. I have a celron E1200 that'll overclock to the same benchmarked speeds as a E6750. Not that i'm telling you to overclock your computer. What i'm saying is, to keep inside your $600 budget, and geting an Intel machine, (not saying that the AMD one that's been posted isn't any good, i'm just giving you an option), you'll need the celron CPU. a true Intel Dual Core will cost an extra $25-30 or so. (E5400)

PC with multiple monitor..

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 10:02:11 GMT

i have since been told that the apple display port dvi will work, but there are non apple cables starting to become available, so yes, it is an option :) (if i can the cash, i'd see if i can run 6 monitors off my 2x 5770s!!) (no, not really)

the future of the mouse

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:50:57 GMT

i dont know. i look @ the new MS Konetix, and think, i really would feel like a tool, trying to play Forza waving my arms around. i'm sorry, but untill the can perfect controlly the computer with thought, (it's getting there, but still not really), the mouse is here to stay. i mean, i like the tactile feel of holding something in my hand, (yeah... STUF). i'm also lazy. i have a wii, and i dont use it. i get cramps waving the wiimote about, (not really, but you get the idea). hell, i have a G9X set to 4000DPI, (5600 is just stoopid), so i can track without using more then a few inches of deskspace, and not have to pick up the mouse. hehehe thou i DO think that seting up a treadmill to you comp, so you acutally have to walk around in WOW is a grand idea. Soo many Hot chics have been ruined by that game i'm sure...

Well its finally finished.. Well kinda

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 06:21:58 GMT

Glad to hear you're system's running well. Here's one for you. I have a GA-P55M-UD4 and 2x 5770's in CF. Now, randomly, but frequently, my mouse cursor will increase to 3 times it's normal size. From what i gather it's specific to my m/board and running 2x 5770's, (just my luck), but i was wondering if you've noticed anything like that with your system, (as it's fairly simlilar to mine). I've tried all the latest drivers, (bar 10.6... read they are buggy as hell), currently on 10.5 and no change. it's just anoying...

External Hard Drive Problem

Fri, 06 Aug 2010 10:43:39 GMT

data recovery is usually expensive, if the drive inside the external caddy has failed. If, when it's powered up, the drive ISN'T quiet, chances are it's failed. Clicking, clunking wering is bad. Look @ the circuit board on the bottom of the HDD that you've removed from the caddy, and see if there's any obvious burnt out componants. If so, good luck. The DCM, (that little circuit board you're now looking at/swearing at), is date revision specific. You'd need to find a HDD, out of the same caddy, built inside the same week, (should be a sticker with build date), if you had the vision of swap out the DCM. I didn't see, but if you've already pull this thing apart, and you have some technical experience, drop it into you desktop machine, and see if it shows up in my comp. If so, get a new ext. caddy, and you're cooking with gas.

HD playback issues on Celeron PC

Fri, 06 Aug 2010 10:52:09 GMT

VLC is fine for a PLAYER, but you may fine its more then likely the codec's being used. Not sure if you remember my "car PC/media PC" that i enter the master builder with, but with Klite codec pack, switched off non-essenstial XP services, and a few other tweeks, and using XBMC/Iphone app to control it, i was able to, using a Atom All-in-one board, (running Intel 950GM onboard), decode 1080P MKV files via wire, and 720P Via wifi, (the asus wifi i used chewed a little too much CPU time) Highly recommend trying a fresh set of codecs first, and if no joy, an 8xxx nVidia or hd4xxx ATI card for an upgrade. you can pick up a hd4350 for sub $40 if you look hard enuf, and it's Hardware blueray playback accelerated.

What CPU fan?

Fri, 06 Aug 2010 11:11:29 GMT

PRETTY sure he's just refering to the Oboard video. So-far only, for us typical consumers, the Intel core I chips have the video onboard the CPU. Nothing AMD does, (yet) (yes, i know they have them, but i said consumer. nothing you walk down the road and buy really) @ the end of the day, and old AMD CPU @ 65deg under load, with a more then likely "dirty" HSF is really what you would expect. When you can buy a PCI-e Video card, like a GT240 for sub $150 and increase the Gaming performance of your machine, (at a guess), 10 fold, why wouldn't you start there? Also, you probly need new Thermal Grease. depending on what has been used, and how old it is, it might have gone "off" I play with my machines on a regular basis, and tend to always pull off the HSF, clean, and re-apply. So it's never more then say 8-12-months old. Might be something to think about. Especially if you've never used compressed air to clean a machine before. It is possible to, if you're not careful, "blow" off some components. It is also posible, (thou unlikely), the create a static charge as the air passes throu all the metal in the case. for the noob, i recomend a soft paint brush, and vacuum the mess afterwards, and pull of that HSF, clean it nice, remove the old grease, and re-apply. this is easiest if it's a bit hot, so maybe run the machine for a few minutes, (boot into windows, shutdown windows will do), will make it easier to remove if you dont have the right cleaning fluid. AND you dont need anything 2 special in the thermal grease either. The differences between really good stuff, and really basic stuff is usually only 3-5deg C. For the money, if you can find it thou, the Artic Cooling MX2 or MX3 is awesome.

My letter to Enermax...

Tue, 10 Aug 2010 13:54:02 GMT

strange. I love my old Enermax 600w. it'd be 5yr old at least, and still going strong. and it had ample lead length. The work around would be, and i know i'm gunna get flamed on this one, run 4pin molex to sata power converters, and molex extentions.

Rust Inhibitor paper

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:16:11 GMT

you'll probly find it's not to inhibit rust, but to stop you scratching the awesome, (or in some cases awefull), paint on the case more then anything else. paper, being porous, will hold water, so it's not a great rust inhibitor. Plastic is thou, hence it's painted That said, i'm sure you've alll noticed how old Antec cases rust were the fan "grill" has been punched out @ the back, after the case has been painted/treated. This usually takes years thou. pull off the paper, make a mess, free that case you just bought

Overclocking Fail HELP!!!

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:28:34 GMT

ummm.. i have an AMD motherboard and CPU here that a mate had. one day he come back to it, and it had powered down, and it wouldn't post. Thing is, powers up for 2 secs? then powers down. it's old so we just replaced it. BUT if you pull the CPU, the motherboard powers up and beeps. So it's the CPU. well... i'm pretty sure it's a CPU. the motherboard will only handle older AM2 cpu's, and none of the ones available on the market, new, off the shelf, so i can't test [i]i'm not sure if it's been touched on here, but you have reset the bios yeah? that could be all it is...[/i] Proving the m/board is faulty due to OC is hard to prove, CPU on the other hand, is easier, but still difficult. .... mmmm you wanna buy the cheapest of the 2x items, and see if that fixes it. 50/50 odds you're right. If you're rong, you now have some test equipment. I guess the upside is the CPU and M/board you have isn't overly expensive.

PC designed for storage?

Fri, 14 May 2010 21:39:05 GMT

found this gem today - [url=http://www.open-e.com/products/open-e-dss-v6-lite/]Open-e DSS v6 Lite[/url] ... new contract @ work, requires Failover cluster, wanna try and make somemore money buy build a SAN not buying one... Looking for something that will work with 2008 r2 in fail over plan to build SAN monday, will keep you posted?

Intel Pentuim 4 1.90GHz (just curios)

Fri, 14 May 2010 21:10:41 GMT

really not capable of much, except maybe a slow death from bordem while you wait for it to do stuff. HEY, is this the machine that you're complaining about running slow? WELL if you've got sub 1gb memory, and you've let XP update to service pack 3, you've problably run out of memory, and need more. SURE fire way to tell, if you HDD light is going CRAZY during said slowdowns, then you've run out of mem. Windows, as it runs out, drops things out of mem onto the Virtual memory, and back again. hdd's are more then 10x slower the RAM, so you'll feel it. problems in the future, appart from, hmmm, if the PSU's as old as that Video card and one day all the magic smoke get's out, i'd say blow caps over the power rail of you're motherboard. seriously, i'm strugling, right now, to squeaze every last drop of performance out of a a P4 640 3.2ghz 775 CPU on an old P5ND2-SLI board, with the pair of 7950GTX's in SLI so i can give my dad an upgrade from his 2.8ghz P4 with 7600GT Dont' know what else to say really

Intel Pentuim 4 1.90GHz (just curios)

Fri, 14 May 2010 21:13:59 GMT

ok, just went back... [b]I SO hope you aren't trying to run Win7 on that thing...[/b]

Upgrading my Computer - Need Help Please

Mon, 17 May 2010 09:48:22 GMT

[quote=rogue316]If you want an O.S, I would reccommend picking up a Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit OEM pack from pccasegear.com for $135.00 which will blow your budget by a little over $100.00 [/quote] Probly get banned from this site... but... Gamedude computers hads Win7 HP 64bit OEM @ $128, and you can pick up the same Liteon DVD burner ATM for $29

King Computer

Mon, 17 May 2010 10:06:22 GMT

ZOMG WOW! my first computer was SpectraVideo 128, (pretty much a yumcha TRS-80), i/dad bought from Mr-Toys. Tought myself to program in Basic when i was about 11. i'm 33 and OLD. My first REAL PC was a Pentium 75mhz OC to 110MHZ, running 2x 3DFX Voodoo2's in SLi, (yes, nVidia DIDN'T develop that tech, they bought it), with a tseng-lab ET6000 2D Card. Last game that played was Homeworld. AND it played it @ 30FPS. In the day, that was the ultimate setup, with each card costing over $250 each, excluding memory upgrades. Total memory on that setup was 4mb on the 6000, and 2mb each on the Voodoo2's AND i've been OC'ing ever since. Next machine was a P3 400mhz OC to 725, (would post @ 900ghz, but it ran a bit hot), it's 10yrs old now, and as far as i know, it's still running @ 725mhz. Next was an AMD XP1600, OC to the Equiv of a XP2500, then i had a REAL XP2500+, OC'd that to the equiv of more then a XP3200+ THEN my s/754 3200 "Egineer's sample" OC, got 3ghz out of a 2ghz chip, watercooled, running 3degC above case ambient THEN there was a P4D 805 that i got 4ghz out of a 2.6ghz chip, air cooled relatively stable, then a E1200 celron, OC'd to the equiv of a E6850, again Aircooled, (Noctua NF-12 running 2x Zalman 12CM fans, pushing over 80CFM each) Currently have a i7 with 5770's in CF. OH, and in and around that, i've pretty much owned EVERY "Bang for Buck" video card ever released. TNT2 throu TI4200 and TI4800, to ATI 9800pros, an 8500 All-in-wonder, 7950GTX SLI, 8800GTS, 9800GTX, (Currenly in "Spare computer" in SLI, with an 8800GT as Physx, running OC e6400 in a Striker 2 board)

King Computer

Mon, 17 May 2010 10:08:19 GMT

AND by equiv i mean in the "At them time, current version" 3dmark scrore. USUALLY ment running the CPU a touch faster then the Chip i was aiming for.

King Computer

Tue, 18 May 2010 14:08:33 GMT

[quote=rogue316]It's the first time I actually read this, and it's quite cute. Good job there Blake. ;)[/quote] hey... he's 12 man, 12yr old's aren't cute. they is fully wicked sick cuz!

Repair laptop cpu fan

Tue, 11 May 2010 13:21:25 GMT

if you look hard enuf, you'll find detailed instructions on how to pull part you're laptop. Google is your freind here. USUALLY there are plastic clips the hold the casing together so everything is in the right place while you screw it back together. So if you can split it slightly, and you get so far, and it REALLY doesn't look like it will let go, chances are you missed a screw. More notably, you've probly NOT unscrewed the screen from chasis. seeing as the screen is the heaviest part of you're laptop, the screws usually go all the way throu. as for repairing the fan, call up EMPR, (i think that's right. they are spare parts for ASUS, Toshiba, but i can't remember if they ship ACER parts), last time bought a fan for a toshi tablet, (odd ball), was $9.50inc

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:02:03 GMT

any good case will have decent cooling. and Coolermaster sell a 12cm 4 pack for like $30 that's great. they are quiet, and move decent air, (about 30-35CFM) for the money the Zalman ZM-F3 12cm fan is a good buy @ $15-20, and moves over 84CFM, they aren't tooo noisy, and don't draw too much current, so plug them onto the m/board, and turn on Qfan or whatever, nice quiet system with decent cooling headroom Down side with the above - Cheap = Sleeve bearing, and shorter life span over Ball or rifle bearings. That said, you're talking 20,000 hours run time over 50,000 on avg. with a difference of over 3x the cost. @ that stage, i'll buy a few extra, and replace them when needed.

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:04:29 GMT

ECM - you forgot the Optical drive from you system spec

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:39:03 GMT

i try, i was sale manager @ a computer company for a few years, that was my job :) also, i've made an edit on the water cooling spec...

Cooling or Cost, what's more important

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:51:48 GMT

An interesting comment was made in the $3K build today, that @ this price range you would "add decent Cooling" Now, i've always been one to make sure that a system is cool enough, as Heat will kill not just CPU's and Video cards, but Heat will shorten the life span of all electronic componants So, i put it to the ppl, would you leave cooling out of a system, or design a system with a cheaper case/PSU to save $$$? personally no. i wouldn't skimp on cooling or PSU, (if you buy a Cheaper PSU, or one that's not up to spec, and it has to run 85% or above duty cycle, it'll start to produce heat, adding to the problem). i'm not talking about the CPU cooler. i'm talking fans for the case, or case design. The HSF for a CPU is designed to cool the CPU @ stock speed without porblems. but all it can do is move heat to the air in the case, you have to get the hot air out. i personally haven't spent less then $200 on a PSU in 8 years... since my first Enermax 600w that still works... Just interested to see what other ppl think.

Cooling or Cost, what's more important

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:39:59 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]I said 'could', not would[/quote] yeah yeah... it wasn't pointed @ you my freind, i knew you meant changing the stock HSF. (aso why it wasn't in the "") the comment got me thinking, that from working in the industry for so long, so many problems that i have to fix on a daily basis could probably have been avoided with spending $50 in cooling, over the $500 they'll end up spending minium fixing it. Just ... wanted to see were ppl stand on the issue maybe? ... and yes, the cheaper the case, the less time has been put into how the air will flow, and more into how we can make it cost only 5c to make. (How much do you think that $50 case you're buying REALLY cost the Shop before they put it on the shelf? then the supplier/importer, then the manufactuor, and dont forget most $50 cases ship with an AWESOME 500w PSU...)

Cooling or Cost, what's more important

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:42:13 GMT

90% of systems i get into my tech room are blown Caps, which, if it's not Age related, is heat related, and finding a board that will match the clients Windows XP install can be difficult, let along one using non-current components.

PC designed for storage?

Tue, 11 May 2010 10:12:50 GMT

Typically, you're looking for a SATA Hotswap Backplane and rack to suit what ever case you're decident on. Most Rack mount cases are expensive, if they support Hotswap racks, and chances are you'll need an odd PSU, and still have the buy the backplane, and of corse the Rack. [b]but![/b] i have one better iCute, (yumcha asian stuff), sell a sata caddiless hotswap bay [url=http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=cadICsata_iswap]Click here![/url] Pretty much meaning that you can run this in any spare 5.25" slot, in any case. I have a 1/2 dozen of them, and they work fine. i've had, over 12 months, 1 "fail", but it could have been the cable, or the old M/board i was using, and i haven't been bothered testing it since. Sooo... if you have a Case like an TT Armour, you'll have a case that'll run like 11 hotswap with and 1x ODD drive There is also this - [url=http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=casCOitower930_silver]Coolermaster iTower[/url] but this has a 4x hotswap backplane, but, dependant on the model, has 3x 5.25inch bays above and below. Hope this helps

PC designed for storage?

Tue, 11 May 2010 10:22:19 GMT

my last fileserver @ home ran Opensolaris, and used RAID Z as the share. as the raid in this and openfiler is software based, depending on the hardware, and if you're planing to run RAID 5 or Z, (and who wouldn't), writes and reads can be quite slow, EG i was getting 10-15mb per sec read/write times, (And strangely, read's were on average slower then the writes), over a 1gb Managed Layer 3 Surecom switch. Running Windows 7 Pro throughout now, and i'm getting 60-70mBps over the wired, and about 25mBps over the wifi, (802.11n, but only 54mbps, due to mis-matched hardware). That said, upgraded server is now a "old" Dual Xeon on a Supermicro, were orginially, it was a Celron C2D E1200 on a P5K-VM

PC designed for storage?

Tue, 11 May 2010 12:48:22 GMT

[quote=Joshua1909]I'm not going to use software RAID, I'm thinking I'll just get an adaptec controller[/quote] ok... just becareful with that, as you're planning to use a LINUX distro, make sure what you download has direct compatibility, or at least have the knowledge to compile or download the driver for the adaptor. you may find it easier to get a silicon image controller, as, from memory, i had issues getting an old adaptec controller to work with Opensolaris. That said, it was a new opsystem really, and the controller was way old. Openfiller is pretty good from memory. i was trying to set up a cheap iSCSI device, while not using SAS drives for a Server 2008 failover cluster. openfiller worked, but was slow, (trying to build with $0 budget, so hardware was PIII dual core server was had liing around). and i think, (this was about 18months ago, just after 2008 was released), openfiller didn't support persistant connection or something? *shrugg* My opensolaris setup was great. system was online for close to 18months, without reboots. Stable.

MacPro 8 core-lackluster results

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:45:18 GMT

Could it be that it's running so hot, it's dieing inside?

The Unlimited Build.

Fri, 14 May 2010 12:22:18 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]TOTAL: $31 784.70[/quote] I feal physically ill looking @ that price... You win :)

The Unlimited Build.

Fri, 14 May 2010 13:13:55 GMT

Amazingly, EVERYTHIN except the M/board was priced @ Gamedude! 1x INTEL CORE i7 980X EXTREME CPU - $1655 1x P6T7 WS SuperComputer - $739 3x CORSAIR DOMINATOR 8gig (4x2gig XMS3) @ $429ea - $1287 7x LEADTEK QUADRO FX 3800 @ $1649ea - $11 543 1x COOLERMASTER Real Power ESA 1000watt - $329 2x Thermal Take Power Express 450watt Toughpower Single 5.25inch Bay VGA PSU @ $109ea - $218 1x CoolerMaster SILVER CHASSIS Model : RC-840-SSN1 - $389 1x LG BLU-Ray 8x Burner - $265 6x CORSAIR Extreme X128 128GB SSD @$569ea - $3414 6x 2.5"-3.5" adaptor @ $10 - $60 total $19 898 EDIT - ok, i'm an idiot... didn't read the memory properly, you can;t really install 12x stick into a system with only 6 slots 6x G.SKILL Single Pack RIPJAWS 4gig DDR3 1600MhzCL9 @$259 - $1554 so total should have been - $20 165

The Unlimited Build.

Fri, 14 May 2010 13:25:41 GMT

that's 7x quadroFX cards - that's 1344 processing cores Should push things along hey? Great for, i don't know, CS5, POV ray, Folding @ home...

MacPro 8 core-lackluster results

Fri, 14 May 2010 13:41:41 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]That sounds plausible; macs, especially recent macbooks, have been known to run very hot. Overheating can cause many issues. [/quote] ummm... i read somewere? (Gizmodo?) that the new mac book pro's running i Core systems run just shy of 100degC @ idle or something like that... hang on ... QUOTE from Gizmodo - "So PC Authority tried more tests (in both Boot Camp and OS X) while tracking CPU temperatures all the while. Sceptical of their own results, they turned off the system overnight and tested things again. In both instances, Cinebench – which is designed to tax the CPU in full – was able to heat the i7 to temperatures around 101C, or almost 214F. That’s hotter than the boiling point of water. When the tests were repeated on a Fujitsu Lifebook SH 760 (loaded with the same i7 processor, but also a copper heatsink that vents out of side of a plastic chassis), the CPU was found to run at 81C, or 178F." [url=http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2010/04/core-i7-macbook-pro-could-make-water-boil/]Click here to read article[/url]

PC with multiple monitor..

Tue, 11 May 2010 13:57:07 GMT

SO technically, you just need a 5xxx series card then. in theory. BUT, if you're building a system, make sure you buy a board with 2x full size PCI express slots, so you can run 2x video cards. it'll be a lot easier to run 2 monitors on 2 cards, then trying to get 3 to run off 1

Learning about RAID

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:04:35 GMT

[quote=rogue316]There is a decrease in write speed due to calculations that have to be made before data is written to the drives.[/quote] But the Read spead is almost, (within 90% usually) of that of a stripe, or RAID 0 array. The downside with Striping is, say with a 2x drive stripe, the all the odd bits, (1's and 0's) of the data, (EG - each character you see on the screen is made up 8 bits of information), is held on Drive 1 and all the even bits on Drive 2 SOO, if 1 drive dies, you lose 1/2 the bits needed to create the data, losing everything RAID 5, is stripe with parity checking Sooo... just quickly, if you have 3 drives, each drive is split into 3 sections, 1 holding even data, one holding odd data, one holding parity. So if one drive fails, there's enuf data, (say, if the partity is EVEN checking, and you have a 1 bit, and the parity bit is 1 also, the data missing is a 0, cos 1+1 = 2, which is even), to rebuild the array. RAID 5 will let you lose 1 drive out of the array, and you only lose 1 drive for parity. you can run as many drives as you're controler alows. You can also set up a HOT SPARE, which means, there's a drive waiting to automatically rebuild the array if one goes down. Doesn't mean you can lose 2x drives @ the same time. There is RAID 6, which is an extrention of RAID 5, were 2x lots of parity is stored, so you can lose 2x drives, but this is really seen. with RAID 1, (mirror), you dont gain any speed or space comparitive to number of drives, but as long as 1x of the drives is ok, you can still access the data. Perfect redunance, and a great idea for an Op-system drive. i use stripe for extra speed in my game's rigs, cos, personally, there's only the operating system, and games, and pretty much all my games are on steam, so i dont even have to worry about disc. for a user that needs the machine up all the time, i encourage RAID 1. just cos it makes my life easier if there's a drive dies, (had to do that yesterday)

Learning about RAID

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:21:55 GMT

the one downside with every RAID array, except a mirrored array, is the controller. every controller stores information slightly differently, and older controllers store the information in the controller themselves, so if the controller dies you may not be able to get the data back anyway. It means that if you, say, have a promise controller, and it fails, unless you can find the same promise controller, useing the same BIOS and Chipset, you probably wont be able to rebuild the array. That said, Most INTEL RAID enabled southbridges, from i think the ICH7R?, store the data on each drive, and is backwards compatable, i think, (i'm pretty sure). So if you have to replace a m/board, and can only find the next ICH southbrige model, it should still work. but dont quote me on that one. Last time i did that it worked, which supprised me really. the major downside with the above array controllers is a lot of the calc. for raid 5, and i believe it uses a little CPU time to do it. I guess and up side to that is, a faster CPU will give you slightly faster writes.

Learning about RAID

Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:24:47 GMT

ok, maybe my comment above about the older controllers storeing information isn't exactly correct - Most older controllers only do mirror, and stripe. Soo, mirror, there's no need to store any information regarding the array, and stripe the algorithim would be coded into the controller. Different controllers, different algorithms

The $3500 Build.

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:55:47 GMT

Been busy and stuff with b/days and annivesary and stuff ... :) All prices as per Gamedude 27-04-10 1x INTEL CORE i7 960 $689 1x FOXCONN FlamingBlade Intel X58 Express $239 1x KINGSTON HYPER X TRIPLE PACK 6gig (3x2gig DDR3) CL9 2000mhz $289 1x SILVERSTONE RAVEN Black ATX Case Model: TO-SST-RV01B-W $239 1x CORSAIR TX950W Power Supply 950Watt $259 1x CORSAIR Extreme X128 128GB SSD 2.5inch SATA2 240MB/s read 170MB/s write Model:CMFSSD-128D1 $569 1x SeaGate 1TB 7200rpm SATA-2 NCQ 32meg Cache 7200.12 $94 2x MSI HD5870 1GB GDDR5 Model:R5870-PM2D1G $%14 ea, ($1028) 1x LG 22x DVD+/-R Burner SATA Model: GH22NS50 $33 1x WINDOWS 7 Home PREMIUM 64bit DVD Edition OEM $128 total - $3567... Close enuf. Am tired and stuff... Change the Case and PSU... they is a bit of overkill

The $4000 Build.

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 15:47:59 GMT

As per my $3.5K setup, with minor Case change 1x INTEL CORE i7 960 $689 1x FOXCONN FlamingBlade Intel X58 Express $239 1x KINGSTON HYPER X TRIPLE PACK 6gig (3x2gig DDR3) CL9 2000mhz $289 1x Fractal Design R2 $149 (Nice new case @ GD - [url=http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=32]Click here[/url]) 1x CORSAIR TX950W Power Supply 950Watt $259 1x CORSAIR Extreme X128 128GB SSD 2.5inch SATA2 240MB/s read 170MB/s write Model:CMFSSD-128D1 $569 1x SeaGate 1TB 7200rpm SATA-2 NCQ 32meg Cache 7200.12 $94 2x MSI HD5870 1GB GDDR5 Model:R5870-PM2D1G $514 ea, ($1028) 1x LG 22x DVD+/-R Burner SATA Model: GH22NS50 $33 1x WINDOWS 7 Home PREMIUM 64bit DVD Edition OEM $128 Subtotal - $3477 Water cooling from CoolPC.com.au 1x Alphacool Eheim 600 Station II $99 1x Swiftech MCR220 2x120mm Radiator $75 1x Alphacool NexXxos X2 BoldHIGHFLOW for Socket 1366 $105 2x Noctua NF-P12 1300rpm 120mm fan @ $28ea, ($56 total) Misc fittings, hoses, and coolant $100 Subtotal - $435 Total - $3912

The $4000 Build.

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 15:53:28 GMT

Thinking if i can swing it, (read, if i can get GD to give me a nice price, and i can hide it from my lovely wife...), might buy one of those cases... have been given a Striker Fomula 2 board, and need a decent case to run it... on paper it looks trick, might go down to GD and see wat it's like ---- Honestly, @ this price point, are we just throwing gear @ the builds to spend money? i dont think anyone would really spend more then $3000 on a computer these days. Which is kinda scarey, considering 2 years ago, $3000 was almost the minimum you'd need to spend to build a 1/2 decent gaming computer. Now, it's more then do-able @ 1/3 that.

PC with multiple monitor..

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:15:14 GMT

.... if you have the right cables, most ATI5xxx cards will do 3 monitors on their own. SOO... if you can find the right card/motherboard combo, you can run 9 monitors without too much trouble. Would be interesting to see if the apple displayport to DVI cable would work with a normal PC and Monitor. Probly not... knowing apple.... need some sort of tricky driver to make a cable work, or it's wired differently, so it's not really displayport or something. Sorry... sarcasm is hard to convey in text

The $4000 Build.

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:22:49 GMT

[quote=rogue316]Yes and no. We are now heading toward my realm of builds. I take my video and picture editing (and gaming) quite seriously and am willing to spend the money to get the best PC that I can (Just not high end Intel prices though). [/quote] Point taken. there is always an exception :) I... have a wife, kid, morgage on big house, and a couple of cars to pay off, (actually no, i own the Jazz now... hehe)... soo the above's so not me :) The only thing i do is play games, code, and do a little bit of graphic design in CS4 for the webwork i do. I'm personally running out of things i can justify... Need a new hobby.... :)

Where to buy Geil 4GB Ultra DDR3 2133MHz

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:42:42 GMT

having been in computer parts sales for nearly 8 yrs, there is "Sine wave" like sales curve for RAM over 12 months. Kinda corisponds to the Chinese new year, but that may be completely conisidental, but between xmas and easter, cos of ram almost doubles. then drops off to a nice price heading towards EOFY, and holds stead until just before xmas prices also fluctuate around the strength of the AUS/US dollar, and you'll find the that cost of comp parts will go up as the aus dollar is weaker then the US, but doesn't go down @ the same rate that the aus dollar get's stronger. That's just importers making some money. [i]Personally, unless you plan to overclock you're CPU, or want to play with the Latency timing's, you only need to buy memory with the same speeds as the CPU's "FSB" went throu that in a forum post here somewere....[/i] Found recently that he "cheap" Kingston DDR2 modules aren't great, but the DDR3 ones are really good. You can push them out of spec for OC better then they should for cheap ram. I use Gskill alot, as they are well made, look trick and are stable for "cheap" performance ram. Haven't played with Team Elite stuff, but i've heard it's good.

Where to buy Geil 4GB Ultra DDR3 2133MHz

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 10:57:32 GMT

AND off the top of my head, and don't quote me on this, cos it may be completely wrong, Geil and Mushkin are imported by the same company, and it's VERY likely that they are in some fiscal trouble, (1/2 of the imports in Aust are in a bad way), so you may not be able to get them here much longer. If there is only a few sticks about in the country and they get listed in a review or something, i'm sure someone's going to bump the price up :) (should be some sort of disclaimer - [i]prices are a guide, and current from as of [/i] or something )

High Performance Computing Laptops

Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:26:51 GMT

Asus G73Jh... ... when they finially get to aust... Look them up on the global site.

Explain the difference between this RAM

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:11:07 GMT

Pretty sure it's not in milliseconds. if i had to wait milliseconds for my ram to do anything, i'd fall over dead. BUT, that said, hope i get this right... and please feel free to correct me, as it was back when DDR2 memory was released when i looked this up, and it might have changed since. to start with, the speed of everything is measured in Hertz. basic sine wave stuff. so if you were to look @ a graphical representation off it, it'd look like, excuse the bad ASCII - /--\__/--\__/-- edit - and for those that dont know, Hertz = cycles per second. for megahertz = million cycles per second. Sdram - Reads only data on the up stroke, (if i remember correctly) DDR sdram - Reads both sides of the wave DDR2 sdram - Reads both sides of the wave, and the peak point i think, or it's the peek points. DDR3 sdram - not really sure, would have to look it up, or u look it up, google knows all But basically, DDR reads 2x the data @ the same MHZ as SDRAM, DDR2, 3 times as much, and so on. the MHZ speed is usually bassed on the FSB to make life easy, they multiply the above, so, DDR memory, on a 133mhz FSB is DDR266. anyway the string of latencies in ram are as such - CAS , RAS to CAS, READ, Discharge, wait state. Basically - 1st - and most important, CAS - how many clock cycles to do anything 2nd - ras to cas - how many CAS Latencies it takes to place data in the memory page. 3rd - read - how many cas's you have to read the data 4th - Discharge - how many cas's it we need to to discharge the memory completely so there is not ghost change in the memory page 5th - wait - how many cas's it to wait before the process can start again. SOO... so if you can follow my explanation, the difference between memory with cas 9, and cas 7 is HUGE. DDR3 memory with cas 9-9-9-20, would take 423 clock cycles to read one bit of data, were 7-7-7-7-20 would be 287clock cycles. NOW, it's been a long time since i've worried about this personally. Back when the Athon 64bit chips and Pentium 4 CPU's were released worrying about the above would make a substantial difference in performance, when clocking the memory, and dropping the latency would yield up to an extra gigabit per second memory bandwidth, you were almost doubling the through put. And considering there was HUGE bottle neck issues in the northbridge to CPU interconnects, and the like, every little bit helped. Back then. Now, doing the same thing, an extra gbps memory bandwidth, when you've already running 22-25gbps, you're not really gaining much. especially with the new intel memory controllers, and AMD's addition of the on-chip memory controllers, latency has become less of an issue. 9 times out of ten, playing with the SPD setting ends in a slightly unstable system, if you dont really know what you're doing. Most new motherboards, have the ability to read SPD chips on the memory, and work out whats optimal anyway. AND get G.Skill memory. From experience, Awesome stable. managed to get a 3.8ghz stable overclock out of a P4 d 805 2.6ghz core CPU, and 3.2ghz overclock out of a Celeron E1200 on a DFI 975x board, with g.skill ddr2-800 cas 3-2-4-6 T1 memory. Air cooled.

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:46:58 GMT

Prices from GameDude for everything but GTX470 Video cards CPU : INTEL CORE i7 930 - $358 M/board : GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R - $258 Memory : Kingston Triple pack 6gb - $199 HDD : 4x 500gb Seagates @ $58 in RAID 5 - $232 Case : Coolermaster HAF932 - $209 PSU : Cosair TX950w - $259 Optical : Samsung Blu-ray Reader $127 Video : 2x GTX470 @569ea - $1138 Physix : XFX GT240 - $119 $2899 Windows 7 HP 64bit - $128 $3027 REAL release of GTX4xx cards is this week i've been told, and will be expensive. the above's a guide, and i expect it to actually cost more. So it's up to you to decide if it should be in a $3K PC range, cos there are parts you can change easily to make up the Video card price difference if there is a need, (change case, change Optical, save few hundred)

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:47:55 GMT

... couldn't find a single slot gts250 card for physix... if anyone knows of one...

The $3000 Build.

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:13:36 GMT

ORRR for something alittle different [i]Parts from Gamedude -[/i] CPU : INTEL CORE i7 930 - $358 M/board : GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R - $258 Memory : Kingston Triple pack 6gb - $199 HDD : 4x 500gb Seagates @ $58 in RAID 5 - $232 Case : Aerocool BX500 - $178 PSU : Cosair TX950w - $259 Optical : Samsung Blu-ray Reader $127 Video :3x Sapphire 5770 @ $177 - $531 [i]Parts from CoolPC - [/i] Swiftech VGA MCW60-R Rev2 Waterblock 3x $65 - $195 Swifttect Apex Ultima 1/2" Liquid cooling - $389 $2726 Sooo... you'll need to mod the Video cards... probably need some extra cooling on the MOSFETS and RAM, soo add Zalman RHS1 Heatsinks pack of 8 for $10 per pack from coolPC. This is so you can pack 3 in the slots provided for triple Xfire. there is no room for double cards, so the watercooling mod is needed. The radiator will mount on the top of the case, were there is room for 2x 14cm fans. You can mount the res. and the pump infront of the PSU, or in the HDD bay, and add a Coolermaster 4-in-3 modual for the drives, and mout below the Bluray player. sooo... add $100 for misc. parts, and $128 for windows, still under the $3k. NOT too sure how the 3xfire will go, but would be interesting :) EDIT - had a closer look @ pics on the GPU cooler block, and there maybe a clearence issue... BUT as i'm not building it, in theory it should work, might have to find another cooler block, or mod the Zalman one for the HD38xx. Or just use them in dual slot config, and have no expansion slots, (only thing i was trying to acheive really

build PC thats worth-for-money

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:19:37 GMT

I REALLY dont understand the draw with SSD drives. They are currently only good for something like 100,000 writes, (Most of the SSD's out there are Multi layer, as Single layer are more expensive but faster and more stable), and, if it fails and you need data off it, you MIGHT be able to do a recovery, but you'll need to send it to the states, and it'll cost you your sister's kidneys. company i work for does DR, and until i asked, i was under the impression that SSD's were unrecoverable. there is a very slim chance of recovery, and it's very expensive. it's still cheaper, (ok, read cost effective compaired to speed and storage), to run a 4x 500gb 7200.12 Seagate stipe array...

build PC thats worth-for-money

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 07:45:51 GMT

i do know the speed difference, even the "cheap" MLC SSD's read @ 15,000rpm SCSI speeds, even if they only write @ eqiv 7,200rpm SATA. I see the merit, dont get me wrong, and yes, for ppl like you and me, to use it as an op system drive is perfect, but for the typical user? is it really a good i dea? i setup for a client a 150gb RAPTOR as op, and 1TB RAID 5 array for data, and his raptor's full, and the data drive's empty. And i'm sure i read somewere that they are only good for a 100,000 writes. That's not much as an op system drive, windows is forever opening and closing files, (marking a file as open is a write, then closing it is another write, correct? PERSONALLY haven't looked into that one, but logically...) i have a cheap 32GB SSD in my laptop, and it's awesome. My boss has a 128gb SSD in his VX5, and it has a timed 22sec boot, from turnon till it's asking him to log in. (POST takes more then 1/2 that). But CURRENTLY, if the drive will only last a year or 2, is it worth it NOW? the tech is coming a long way, and quickly. and like i said, newer SLC SSD are getting faster and more stable, but i can't see the justification, right now for a desktop anyway, when with a simple raid 0 or 5 array you can acheive similar performance with more storage for similar $$$. Admitedly, you will need more power to run the array, and more room will be taken up in the system, more noise and heat will be generated. Nothing is without the pros and cons. JUST my 2c eh :) and YES, my next upgrade for my gaming rig will be a pair of SSD's in RAID..

My PC's Better then Yours!

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:38:18 GMT

well... i managed to kill my p5k board the other day... haven't done that in a while... must be the lack of good sleep, (or good cuddles), with new baby boy in my life. Don't short the power pegs with the chassis open peg below it. was testing memory, (this board is a spare now, well, was), for a client, and i dropped the screw driver i was using to turn it on. bugger... i got some nasty OC's out of a P4D 805 CPU, that i've mentioned in out posts, but my I7 860's more then fast enough for me. Actually been spending alot of time over the last few days playing with a program called rainmeter. nice for a free beta [url=http://www.rainmeter.net]for app[/url] [url=http://www.customize.org/rainmeter]For Skins[/url]

The $2500 Build.

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:51:50 GMT

The asrock boads ae good for budget. the hardest part was getting it in budget, with win7 an 2x 5850's. with an X58 boad that cheap, you'd not bother with a P55 setup... If it was just a gaming rig, you'd change it to a i5 P55, savin you all of, what $140?, and you'd be able to run a better op-sys drive setup? [quote=Chris.Lampard]why not go a supertalent 64gig for $229 and drop the 1.5TB back to a 1TB to even the price[/quote] That was the hardest part... working out the drive setup. Had the potential to be "not cost effective" Personally i'd run 4 500gb 7200.12, or 3x 150gb Raptor's, in RAID 5. Simular $$$, Minimal peformance lose. Real world difference, something like 1 sec load time in a game? maybe? sorry, still not a huge advicate of SSD, untill SLC SSD drives become more affordable anyway That said... i run an 32gb SSD drive in my Laptop, and with a 16gb SDHC card in reader for music, , (after win7, office 2007, and CS4 installed, you're left with 5gb out of 29.5(?) formated), and carry maybe 3 ext HDD's at anyone time in my bag?... they is cheap, i tend to collect them... :P

The $2500 Build.

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 23:59:18 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard] he also is running CF 5850's he still thinks it looks laggy [/quote] i had a HUGE issue with texture shearing with my 5770 CF setup. i had to turn off the Z buffering? umm... ATI's AI... ummm like the 3 tab in in the 3D setting. Also if he plays with some of the AA and AF setting's he'll see a big difference Ask him to ty it with CF turned off. if it's better, it's the Z buffer thingy

My PC's Better then Yours!

Fri, 09 Apr 2010 00:09:20 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Course ill be in the competition again, i was thinking maybe we should start a sticky post about what we think and all other's think should be added to the rules or t&c's if you will.[/quote] maybe. Still wondering if they read our posts about that PSU thingy... ... it's amazing the stuff my head holds sometimes... my wife looks @ me slack jawed sometime what i start to babble. And being 1/2 Asian, i can babble @ a gazillon miles per hour. Not really, my lovely wife will tell me to shut up before she becomes catatonic :)

Asus - Disgraceful Support

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:05:27 GMT

[quote=AlexF]If you bought it in Australia, the Australia distributor honors the warranty, not Taiwan.[/quote] They are only obliged to, by law, honor 12months of a warrenty, regardless of the length. EG - Western digital - 3yr warrenty. 1st 12 months you can take it to were you bought it, afte that it must be posted to WD in taiwan, you pay post there, they pay post back to you, onis is on you to make sure that the device suffers no damage on the way there. I've personally never had any problems with Asus as a brand, but i would NEVER pay for an extended warrenty. That and the fact that my Credit card covers that, for "free", (free in quotes, cos i'm sure it's paid for by my interest rate), for up to 3 yrs anyway. I can only assume that you paid for it, (G laptops weren't cheap), on your CC, contact them, and see were you stand. @ the end of the day, maybe it's worth getting a new core i laptop anyway. faster, cheap, better battery life... I have a 5yr old Asus A2K laptop, pretty much their first "gaming"lappy, and it's heavy, hot, and has no battery life.

Asus - Disgraceful Support

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:10:27 GMT

[quote=lissy25]Asus are so bad they wouldent replace myLaptop under warranty so it end up cost me $400 to have the motherboard replace and the took my 2 sticks of RAM and blank SD card how rude is that? Not happy [/quote] What happened to the laptop? There must have been a reason why they wouldn't replace it under warrenty. My sister-in-law's laptop, 15months old, left in the window in lismore during the huge storm they had a year ago(?), dropped in in the morning, m/b was replaced that afternoon, was shipped back to me the next day. i mean, they wont replace something that has been damaged by user error, or something along those lines. That's covered by your Accidental Damage insurance

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 00:46:01 GMT

Kinda funny post, not sure were all this talk of heat came into it. If the system was over heating, it would either slowly get slower, or the HSF on the CPU would get noisier, or the system would switch off and beep @ you, as long as you left that on. (had a system in the tech room... they'd broken the clip on the HSF during build, and when it started over heating, alarms would sound, and it would power down. SO they turned off the alarm and error checking in the bios. Was awesome, and would have run in that state for about 3 yrs before it failed.) Ok, so you're running windows 7 yeah? open task manager, and watch the CPU/memory load. if something max's out 1 of the cores, figure out which process, and from there you maybe able to work out if it's a driver, or a bit of software that's getting in the way or something. it's not memory, 2-4gb in win 7 is more then enuf. though, if you're using different types of memory, with different timings, you might find that the config is slightly unstable, and i'll be getting recoverable errors. you can check this in the admin tools in vista and win7. Exactly what it's call, i cant remember, but it's performance monitor or something. You can see how many errors per second your memory's having. You can have these sort of errors, and you machine will still run stable in windows. Basically, if windows know's it's an error, or is told that data processed it wrong, it'll log the error, request the again. Suprise! lag. Usually, a big memory error will BSOD your system, and they dont always show up on some sort or memory test either. i'm also assuming that you've - 1) updated all drivers 2) run all updates, (BIOS included) 3) installed all patches of the game(s) if you are getting memory errors, try increasing the memory timings, make sure that the slowest stick of your memory is in slot 1/A as the SPD timing are only ever read from the first populated slot, you can also try increasing the voltage slightly, but only by the smallest amount, and only as the last resort. Hope this helps some. BTW, i've seen NFS shift running on E2180 CPU fine, with a 8800GT. that athlon you're using would have to be faster then that.

Now For The $1000 Build.

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 01:07:06 GMT

ok, all prices from Gamedude. don't wanna start a Gamedude flaming war here... i just know their item code structure, used to work there... 1x GIGABYTE Odin 585watt ATX Power Supply Model: GE-P585A-C2 $79 1x ANTEC VSK-2000 Black Midi ATX Tower Case Front USB / Audio IN / OUT NO POWER $58 1x INTEL DUAL-CORE E6500 2.93Ghz 2m CACHE 1066FSB LGA 775 $91 1x ASUS P5P43TD Intel P43 Express FSB 1600Mhz (OC) $94 2x CORSAIR ValueSelect 2GB DDR3 1333Mhz CL9 $69 each, $138 total 1x Seagate 500gb 7200.12 hdd, $62 1x LG dvd+/-rw $35 1x HIS HD5850 1GB GDDR5 Model: H585F1GDG $379 total - $936 nice fast gamer under $1K edit - Damn, forgot windows... replace gigabyte PSU and Antec Case with - 1x CoolerMaster ELITE 310 BLUE/BLACK 420watt POWER $89 Add Win7 HP 32bit @ $118 total $1006. Close enuf?

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:56:12 GMT

[quote=rogue316] ... it was getting slower and slower because he'd stated that it would run fine for most of the races, but then it would start to lag in the corners and I took that as meaning it was starting to slow down. [/quote] Yeah, i read that as, it was running fine, but in the corners, it slowed down, then once out of the corner it's fine... hmmm... just had a thought... did you change any of the Video settings? in shift, turn off the motion blur. (i haven't played Dirt2) Shift tries and make it .... realistic .... depending on your driving style, it'll motion blur to show g-forces and stuff. That could be the source of the lag, as the overlays to make it blur, and that's a huge amount of data that needs to be proccessed, just to look cool, in the middle of a corner. I always turn that stuff off. it's distracting @ best. That said, i only play Shift for the Drift. Turn down some of the detail, see if that helps. At the very least, you should be able to eliminate the CPU as part of the problem, (which i personally dont think it is...) I mean, orginially, i played Shift on an E1200 celeron, clocked to 2.9ghz, with 4gb memory, Vista Ultimate, with a 9800GTX. not much different to your setup, and it was fine. If anything, i was getting a slightly lower perfromance score

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:30:06 GMT

Before you do anything hasty, Download Malwarebytes anti malware, and (www.malwarebytes.org) and do a quick scan of your system. could be some malware on the system, which will be taking up CPU time. (yes i know you have a clean install, but this should only take a few minutes, it's free, and i've had a 99.5% success rate on that software, so if there's something that is hiding on the back up you made before the clean install, it should find it.) Also, i'm guessing that you only really looked @ the Processor graph. If you look @ the process list, and make sure you click on "show all processes" have a look @ what is using up 99% load. and ignore the system idle process. I've never had any real problems with AMD CPU's, hell, i have a amd K6 that would still be working now if the board hadn't thrown a CAP last year... anyway... since the P4D 805 came out, as they were, if you got the right one, the most awesome overclocker around @ the time, (3.8ghz stable, air cooled, out of 2.6 stock), i've been intel person. I have no real affinity toward any brand, or chipset, or chip type, i do the research, and find the best performance for the money. Personally, since AMD bought ATI a few years back, i think the Mainstream CPU's have taken a side seat to the GPUs and Server gear. To many eggs maybe? Anyway... ATM, i5 750 is the CPU to get, if you can afford it, + new motherboard + ram. The i7 only has hyperthreading over the i5, and that's not really useful in game. In fact, currently the i5 has a more aggressive "turbo boost" mode over the i7 1366, so you'll save 100's, and you might even gain a few FPS.

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:32:27 GMT

oh... yeah... might be a memory leak, considering the demo will be based on the beta, or even the alpha, could just be the software itself. Have you jump on the NFS forum to see if anyone else is having similar problems in the full game?

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:39:52 GMT

[quote=stretch4x4]I also tried looking into bios updates, but the asus site was broken and I couldn't download the latest one :( But all other drivers and updates are fine, windows 7 even found me an nvidia driver for the 9800GT even though I already had an asus version.[/quote] ummm... have you been to nvidia's site and downloaded the latest drivers? the window's 7 update ones will be at least a few releases old. WQHL cert. takes for ever, and even longer to get them on the update servers. Been doing this for long enuf to see nvidia and ati release drivers specifically to handle glitches in games after software houses complain. can't remember exactly, but i remember, i think it was crysis, but nvidia release a driver that gave a 20 FPS increase. just cos they optimized some code. new drivers come out monthly, but read the release notes before doing an upgrade, and make sure you make a system restore point, before you do anything

windows 7 ram problem

Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:35:39 GMT

32 bit windows 7, and 32bit Vista SP1, will REPORT 4gb of memory, if it's there, but will only use 3.2 ... only thing i can think of is that the board isn't as new as you think, and the 2gb sticks you are using are single sided, and @ a higher density that the BIOS can read properly. you have jump'd into you BIOS to make sure it's reporting the memory properly. We do all run MEMTEST 86 on all our machines before we install windows right?

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Thu, 18 Mar 2010 18:49:37 GMT

[quote=stretch4x4]I also feel the same way. I actually thought at the time AMD's core architecture was a lot better than intels, they were actually putting four cores in and thinking about it as opposed to intel that was just stuffing them in. Somehow intel still managed to be faster :S[/quote] Faster yes, but at the time, more expensive. For the $$$ the AMD was better value for money, 2 yrs ago. I kinda assumed that this system was more recent then that. i used AMD CPU's pretty much exclusively, from the AMD XP1600, right up to the 3500+ 939. Then i bought the DFI board, an hand picked 805, and a Noctua NF-12 HSF, and peaked a 4ghz OC out of a 2.6ghz chip, (ran it @ 3.8 usually...), and it ran fast, stable, and the HSF was able to keep it @ the same temps as stock, with stock HSF. Then i bought a E6600, which @ stock speeds was faster. That's now in the media box. Then i caught wind of the E1200 Celeron's OC ability, and for a $50 chip, managed to get it running as fast as a E6850. Sigh, thous were the days... Currently my Gaming rig is an i7 s-1156, Gigabyte p55m-UD4 board, mATX, in a silverstone SG03 case, running 2x 5770's in CF. dont really wanna stress the little case i have it in. It's a lanning box. When i get around to is, i'm looking for an SLI board that i can run a pair of 7950GTX's i have "lieing about" for a Race car simulator. Something i have to find room for really... thinking i need to clear out the garden shed, clad it, air con it, and set it up with a cheap projector... should be fun for Shift, and Forza :)

windows 7 ram problem

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 11:24:21 GMT

[quote=quantum]yes i am using 2 sticks of 2gb ddr3 1333mhz, also i do believe that they are double sided.[/quote] ok... soo, if you can see the chips, they are on both sides of the PCB? if so they are double sided... No guessing needed :) IF you have a Heat spreader on them, you should still be able to tell if you look REALLY closely still haven't been told if you have checked in the BIOS if it see's both 4gb of the ram. If it doesn't , it's not a windows issue... Re-seat the ram, wiggle them in socket, swap them round, if they aren't detected in the BIOS and if that dont work, do a BIOS update with just one working stick of ram. would hate to glich your board during the update. NOTE - updating you BIOS is not for the complete novice. You can brick your shinny m/board quite easily with a bad update. DISCLAIMER - this is JUST friendly advice. If you break it, it's not my fault *grin*

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:22:03 GMT

free small benchmarks from unigine - [url=http://unigine.com/download/]Unigine download page[/url] yeah, i'm out of ideas too... get it stolen? you're @ uni yeah? sell it, and buy upgrade :P talk mum into an upgrade for her computer, and use your bits for her, and new bits for u :P

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:36:53 GMT

[quote=stretch4x4]Also been suggested to run Prime 95 to stress test the cpu.[/quote] mmm... but if the CPU was glitchy, it wouldn't just happen as you come into the corner... [quote=stretch4x4]Have also had another suggestion, AMD has a cool and quiet thing, so possibly my CPU is going into low power mode. Going to have another dig through my BIOS tonight.[/quote] Same there, it would be a more constant thing, but you know. Have you checked the CPU temp under load? play game, let it glitch, reboot, go into BIOS, check the CPU temp? Might be something as simple as the Thermal grease has gone off, and it need to be re-applied. Try turning off Cool and Quiet, turn off you CPU fan's controller, and make it run 100%. it'll be loud, but you know it's cooling properly. Try again, check the CPU temps after that. OH, i guess i should have asked, when in game, does the machine become very loud? Personally i dont think so... to me it sounds more like Windows is re-starting the Video card driver, thou it usually drops you out of the game, and give you the error message - Windows has encounted an error and has had to restart a driver, or something like that. Vista/win7 does this, XP would just bluescreen again, i dont know, i'm quickly running out of ideas. Have you physically checked the hardware internally for damage? check the BIOS for voltage drop, (should be more then +/-.5v on the 12v, and the 5 and 3.3 should be within .2v), and look for bulging or blow caps, (capacitor), on the CPU power rail, (around the CPU), and the main power curcuit, (between th main power header on the board, and the next major componant). and around the memory. If there are any blown near the memory, i'm supprised the system post's at all If the Voltages in the BIOS are low, there's a leaking cap in the PSU, and you need to replace it. (the PSU, you dont wanna dick around trying to replace a cap) It's suprising how many odd issues are PSU related. NEVER BUY A CRAP ONE.

Now For The $1000 Build.

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:48:23 GMT

you've forgotten the Video card. Just cos the cpu has Video on board, doesn't mean that it will work. the motherboard needs to support, (basically needs the VGA and DVI headers) it and looking @ the speck on that board, it's not there. Pretty sure you need a H55 chipset board, not the P55. From what i've read, it'd still work, but no onboard video. try the asus P7H55D-M EVO, $156 out of Megaware computers. Pretty sure we've used them before, and they direct ship from ingram micro, so that board will probly from direct out of achiva

Now For The $1000 Build.

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:49:48 GMT

gawd i'm stupid, i missed the 5770. still would change the board thou... gives you video if the card dies :) cheaper 2, use the cash for a better case/PSU or windows

windows 7 ram problem

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:13:07 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]These days updating the BIOS is easy; you can use a usb and do it from the bios (my preference) or do it through windows. The biggest problem is if the power goes out halfway through updating.[/quote] True, it is easier, but if there is a memory problem, and the problem manages to corrupt the information being written to the BIOS, then you end up with an expensive piece of fiberglass. sooo, best to start by running memtest before hand, see if that picks up on all the memory, and/or glitches. If you end up with lots of errors, try each stick on it's own, and if neither error, you're BIOS will probably/deffinately need that update. obviously if one errors on it's own, then you may have a dead bit of ram, and the motherboard was smart enough to not use the stick, hence 1/2 the ram. Not that i've ever heard of a motherboard that would do that... but who knows... Personally i recon 1 stick's not seated properly.

windows 7 ram problem

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:22:36 GMT

[quote=quantum]i tried to only seat one stick in the first bay and the computer wouldnt work, tried some other bays and the same thing, [/quote] ok.... but did you do this with both sticks yeah? as in, stick 1 you tried, no post, did you try stick 2 on it's own? if not, try this, if it posts, you've just worked out which stick is bad. If it's a matched pair, (came in the same box), you'll need to take BOTH back, preferably in the box you got it in, back for warranty. If you don't, expect issues claiming warranty. Would highly recommend buying a cheap stick of ram, A) to keep you online, and B) to keep as a spare next time you have memory dramas. If you had a problem with the slots, or the memory controller, i'm supprised the system posts at all, (POST = Power On Self Test), and the wiggle test, (machine's running, wiggle memory, see if windows locks up), would give you a pointer if there was a conductivity issue with the slots. [quote=quantum]according to the book you need to put one stick in bays A1 and B1 before it would work[/quote] For dual channel to work i think you'll find. All systems will run, (SHOULD run), in single channel mode, if you drop 2x stick in A1 and A2, you'll end up in just single channel mode. Also, make sure you've got them in the right slots. Some P55 boards have slots A and B around the wrong way. As in, Slot A is furtherest away from the CPU, which isn't really the norm. Getting this wrong makes system not post, not "only show 2gb ram" Most m/board's should be able to post with a single stick in ANY slot, but it's "best practice" to have the SLOWEST stick in Slot A1, as the BIOS will read SPD settings, (RAM's standard, (?), memory timings), getting this wrong will result in an unstable system. Again, not "only showing2gb ram" Personally recon 1x sticks not being detected, (read is faulty), and you've managed to find Fualty stick 1st go. Try the other stick on it's own. (and sorry, i haven't been online of late, looking after my 10week old bub, while mum sews)

building Intel i5 based PC.. help me plz

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:32:09 GMT

Personally - Once you've settled on the budget, and CPU you plan to use, take cash to local computer store, tell them you can only spend $100 less then is in your pocket, and you need to have th i5, either a 5770 or GTX260 216 video card, and whatever else you need to make it work If you get it all from the same place, and you have enough confidence that you can put it together yourself, if it goes pair shaped, or there's something that they've sold you that's not compatible, you take it back and say "FIX it bitches!" if you not confident enuf to build it, pull out the $100 you keep, and say "BUILD it for me Bitches!" OR wait till the new GTx3xx cards from nvidia come out... little bird tells me that they should land in the next few weeks. ... BUT said birdy is a little 'tarded, SO please don't hate me if i'm wrong

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:45:11 GMT

Sorry, was out of touch last few days... looking after baby son :) ok, you stated before that the extra ram, (4 gb borrowed), made no difference. Sure fire way to see if you're running out of mem is the HDD light starts going nuts, as window starts using the swapfile. HDD disk access is obviously substancially slower then direct mem access. I know it's a little hard to check while trying to drift outa that corner, but you know. In all seriousness, go buy an XBOX360. consoles are better @ Car sims anyway. [b][i]FORZA3 for the win.[/i][/b]

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 17:24:32 GMT

[quote=stretch4x4]I had the same setup on my ssd temporarily and that behaved the same.[/quote] You can afford an SSD? and not an Xbox? hell, i picked up an Elite @ BigW for $318 over Xmas, with Pure and Lego Batman. (my 4yr old one got banned after i "upgraded" it...) Let us know how you go once you've had a play :)

The $2000 Build.

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:40 GMT

ok - All prices from Gamedude, except the video card. [i]CPU [/i]- Intel i5 750 - $239 [i]M/board[/i] - Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD4 - $195 [i]Memory[/i] - Kingston HyperX 2x2gb pack - $175 [i]HDD[/i] - Segate 500gb 7200.12 - $58 [i]Case[/i] - Antec VSK-2000 - $56 [i]PSU[/i] - Corsair TX750 - $198 [i]Cooling[/i] - 3x Zalman ZM-3 12cm fans @ $15 each - $45 (The stock 12cm fan moves 1/2 the air of the Zalman) [i]Optical [/i]- LG DVD+\-RW - $33 [b][i]Video[/i] - EVGA GeForce GTX 480 1536MB - $749, (PC Case Gear)[/b] OP system - Windows 7 Pro - $179 Total cost $1927 ok, YES, i found a listing for the GTX480 @ PC case gear. I wasn't expecting to find a list price, and it is cheaper then it should/might get posted in a few weeks when they land. When they land. So, NO, you can't buy one YET. USUALLY the Bleeding edge Video card from nvidia is $999. BUT We'll see eh? you can go an i7 CPU, for about an extra $110, but there's not really any point. Not for Gameplay anyway. Hyperthreading is rarely used in games.

The $2000 Build.

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:30:37 GMT

Point of interest - The zalman ZM-3 12cm fan - Tested 84CFM, (83.something), and cheap, and there is really nothing that moves that sort of air short of a Delta fan, but they are expensive, and LOUD. The only downside is they run Sleeve bearings in the motor. Meaning the life of the fan isn't long. Isn't long is something like 20,000 hours. But @ $15, who cares eh? (Canada eh?) Using 2x of these, with a [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_311&products_id=12931]Noctua NH-U12P[/url], (upgraded the stock fans, that are nice and quite, but 1/2 the airflow), and was able to run an intel P4D 805, @3.8ghz stable, (posted @4.0, but it wasn't a measured increase of performance), @ 4-5deg C above the bios measured ambient. Basically as good, if not better then most watercooling. AND it wasn't that noisey

The $2000 Build.

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:01:13 GMT

i've never had problems with LG drives.... there's REALLY not much out there ATM. Sony = NEC, Samsung's are noisy, leave's Asus, and i've had issues with those drives... Considering how easy it is to get VIsta or Win7 onto a USB drive to install, and how it's sooo easy to buy games from the cloud, (read Steam), i've not used any of my optical drives, bar the BR that i have in my Main media box. just out of interest, why would you spend the xtra in the budget for a X58 setup, and an SSD? oh, and did you know that ThermalTake PSU's come out of the Xsonic Factory? It's a shame that there's not that many ppl doing Enermax PSU anymore. My 600w is 6yrs old, and still work fine.

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:15:36 GMT

ok, Crash corse in Overclocking. Basically you need to up the FSB speed until the system crashes. Become familiar with your BIOS, and remember what your settings are. SOME good m/boards will reset themselves to the last POSTing, or Stock settings if you manage to over do it, and it wont POST. Slowly up the FSB speed, steps of 10mhz until the system crashes. Do what you need to do to get it back up, and set the FSB to the 10mhz less then before. IF you really want to, you can step up 1mhz until it crashes again, and bring it back 1-2mhz, but that's up to you. Try and get windows to boot. If it blue screens, either drop back 5mhz or so, (safe option), or increase the CPU voltage by 1 step, (not-so-safe option. All m/boards have different voltage options, but it's usually .0125v.) Some boards wont let you change the voltage. Make sure that your PCI frequency is locked, (shouldn't change from 100mhz), and leave that Cool and Quiet thing off and your fan speed @ max, until you've finished the OC. It's up to you if you wanna turn it back on after the OC once you're in windows, run prime. If prime errors, drop back a few MHZ. DISCLAIMER - You do this @ your own risk! Without knowing your exact system spec, i can't guaranty that this will work, will make any difference, will not make you computer break, so you do the above @ your own risk.

The $2000 Build.

Wed, 31 Mar 2010 08:58:37 GMT

yeah... i've never tried a benq, and until recently lite-on and sony were the same drives, (sony was the re-badge i think). Last time i used a sony, it dies within 3 months, was their external drive. The dumb thing was, it was a free drive with a projector, and they wouldn't warrenty it. seriously, for $30odd, for the few times i'll actually use it before it's out of warrenty and dies, i dont care :)

Desktop Weak Point (lag)

Wed, 31 Mar 2010 09:16:29 GMT

ok, it seems that AMD have changed the name, all things considered. HTT = FSB. I guess cos FSB is the name penned for the interconnect between the CPU and memory controller. As they are on the chip, i guess they had to rename it. Anyway. if all you have is a memory ratio, HT Clock, and memory divider, i'm thinking that maybe you're look @ the wrong thing. Most CPU settings are hidden until you change a setting from auto to something else. ... can't find any screenshots of your bios... USUALLY this is a little hard to find, as, like i said, setting the wrong values will overheat and damage the CPU and/or motherboard. Try under Advanced, cpu settings, (or something), what you need to change will show up as Auto or something with the values you need the change not there or greyed out. they'll activate once you've change this. It's been a while since i've OC'd a CPU, and longer since i've done an AMD. Intel still uses FSB until the i Chips, and they've just renamed it to QPS or something. you could also TRY the AI NOS, (i'm sure that's a feature of your board), this should give you a "soft" overclock. i've played with this on some setups, but with no GREAT performance increase really.

The $2000 Build.

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 11:56:27 GMT

Xsonic Is Cheap and Nasty! They make $50 cases with 500w PSUs! soooo... pretty much saying, in my personal opinion, TT PSU's are pooh, and i'm not a fan. i've had a few Thermaltake cases, (last case being the original Armor Black Steel case...), and there is so much out there that is better. Slverstone, Coolermaster, and now Aerocool, (thou only the higher end stuff, and they are really modded Coolermaster Chassis's anyway), are better in my personal opinion. ONLY from a builders point of view. They are roomy, heaps of room to hide cables, so they are nice and neat, quiet, cool well, up there with Lian-Li in quality... BUT each to their own i guess. If you're not building the machine, and want a specific look, they are good looking cases. Personally, i like the Coolermaster CM690, or the Aerocool BX500. Same Chassis, the CM690, but the Aerocool is modded for more fans, fan headers for the extra fans for neater cable run, and if i didn't already have a 690, i'd get one. [url=http://www.aerocool.com.tw/pgs/pgs-b/bx500.htm]Aerocool PGS BX-500[/url] [url=http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6607]Coolermaster CM-690 Pure[/url] And they is CHEAP - Shopbot prices - CM-690 = $105.60 @ itsdirect.com.au BX-500 = $178 @ Gamedude. (that's gone up... used to be $155)

The $2000 Build.

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 12:06:05 GMT

found this one too - [url=http://www.aerocool.com.tw/pgs/pgs-r/cyborgx.htm]Aerocool Cyborg X[/url], again, looks like a CM-690 chassis, with funky plastic bits, and only $145 out of GD

The $2000 Build.

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 12:17:56 GMT

ZOMG - [url=http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6638]Coolermaster CM-690 II Advanced[/url] only $149 out of PC Case Gear [url=http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13772&cPath=547#getprice]PCCG link[/url]

My PC's Better then Yours!

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 13:08:57 GMT

Sooo... i've been spending lots of time, (Hopefully), help ppl here, but i'm bored @ work @ the moment, and waiting for tomorrow to see who get's posted as finalists in the Builder Comp... thought i'd start a thread bragging about the computer setup you have. Cos you know, it's your baby, and it's better then everyone's right? [b]Main Gaming rig[/b] - Intel i7 860, Gigabyte P55M-UD4, 4gb GSkill ram, 1x "slow" Samsung 500gb HDD, 2x Sapphire 5770's in CF, Silverstone Zues 850w PSU. All shoehorned into this [url=http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_contents.php?pno=sg03&area=]case - Silverstone SG03[/url] Upgrade Plans - I'm stuck with a max card length of 10inchs, (will fit, if you remove the grill off the bottom front fan, a GTX275), but my upgrade to the 5770's is recent, so i'll see what's available in the next 6-12 months. I have a pair of SSD 32gb drive that'll be striping for the op system once i have finished upgrading my file server, ("old" twin Xeon 3.06ghz intel server that work was throwing away, running win7 with a spanned array with 8.2TB space), cos i need to back up some stuff before i do. [b]Primary Media box [/b]- Intel T2500 Laptop CPU, Asus N4F, 4350 video card, XFi Extreme Music card, seagate 120gb drive, LG Blue ray burner, Netgear WN311B, a tv tuner or something, in an Antec NSK-2480 [b]Secondary Media box[/b] - [url=http://apcmag.com/adrian-rundle-media-pc.htm]Master Builder Page - Adrian Rundle[/url] There's the one in the comp that i posted that got me in the Master Builder's Semi's. [b]Primary server[/b] - Xeon as mentioned above, 5 WD 1TB Green drives, and 2x 1.5TB Samsung drives, 2x 74gb Raptors in Mirror for opsystem, in 4RU rack with a seasonic 430w 85+ PSU. [b]Secondary server/Tertiary Media box/dedicated Gaming server box[/b] - E1200 Celeron, @ 2.2ghz stable, with a bunch of drives spanned to 2.5tb on a Abit X38 Quad GT board, and sapphire 5450 in a CM-690case Also have a 42RU rack under the stairs with layer3 switch. Before you ask, MOST of the above is leftover from upgrades of the gaming rig or my laptop. OR stuff that work was throwing away, (like the 42RU rack, switch, Xeon board and CPU's) i know i can get more out of the E1200, but currently it's scoring 5.6 in the win 7 performance rating, so enuf for what i'm doing ATM. i know i can get 2.8 out of it. Current, it'll hit 30degC under load. That's with a Intel Extreme CPU cooler, and running at only 35% duty cycle.

My PC's Better then Yours!

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 09:13:49 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]I'm stuck with a 10.5" graphics card length. Unfortunately, my motherboard doesn't do SLI, so I can't get a second 275. Might get a HD5850 later, if I can sell my 275.[/quote] That's fair, but for the money, and the fact that you have Xfire on that board, a pair of 5770's will cost about the same as the single 5850, and give you more frame rate, (ran the numbers, as that's what i upgraded from/to). I'm sure you'll be able to find someone to buy your card, looking to set up an SLI setup, as you can't get 275's readily anymore. GTX4xx cards should be on the market next week BTW. but ATM there's no real speed increase. Driver or CPU limitations from what we can gather.

My PC's Better then Yours!

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 09:17:48 GMT

[quote=rogue316]Oh, I have multiple computers, but thats the one I'm using at the moment. I am also building a new PC with much the same specs as this one, but using the AMD 965 black edition CPU and 790FXTA UD5 Motherboard. [/quote] mmm... i haven't built an AMD system in ages... Something to do with investing alot of money in highend Intel boards, so i can overclock lowend CPUS, (that e1200 is running 2.6ghz stable, @ 37degC underload, 30degC ambeint. Happy with that, considering it's running Air cooled) Just not... i dont know, still think AMD's got to many fingers in pie, and the Consumer CPU market's falling to the way side of the Server/comercial market, and Video card race. Just me. I'm sure there's something cool coming out in the next year, as i'm sure Intel will ride the CoreI bandwagon for a while yet.

My PC's Better then Yours!

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 09:23:48 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard]Didn't make the finals but gave it a good shot, here is my current build : CPU: Intel Q6600 overclocked to 3.15ghz Mobo: Asus P5K-VM[/quote] Me either... but it was fun. Might try again next time too eh? That's a handy OC on a P5K-VM board. Did you have to volt up the CPU to get that? Considering that board has only 3 power rails, the MOSFETs should/will be getting hot. I've got one, and i couldn't get the OC i'm getting out of my e1200 CPU cos it wouldn't supply the power. The Abit board i'm using runs 8 or 16 rails, i can't rememeber. I tried a cooling MOD on the P5K-VM, running Coolermaster Little Chipset coolers on them. Made a slight difference. Maybe an idea for board longegevity.

The $2000 Build.

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:26:24 GMT

ok, Bigger yes, but that's not always better. ok, if you haven't already guessed, i LAN very frequently, and i'm Lazy. SO, with everything in my Amour case, water cooling gear, and all, looked trick, was well laid out, and everyone looved it, but @ in-excess of 45kg, in ment more then on trip from the car, and due to it's size, i couldn't just set up anyway. Again, dont get me rong, it's a great case, and i've had 2, the black Steel above, hence the wieght problem, (dry they wieght 20kg), replace with the Alloy version, (dry, only 7kg) BUT, The Alloy case was top heavy once you installed PSU and 3 HDD's in the top HDD caddy. Unstable even with the feet out. My wife destroyed that comp when she bumped one day. (the watercooling gear was custom made, and all solid copper. CPU, Northbridge, GPU sinks, using an ehiem pump, and a motorcycle radiator, which took up most of the front area) Remember, the above is at least 6yrs ago. talking when 754 AMD's were released. Back then Thermal take were the best Case's in Aust. With the Antec 1080 a close second. Now, i recon the CM690 Analogues would cool as well as the armour+, and if you use the Coolermaster 4in3 modual, give you almost as much drive storage, in a more managable size. At the end of the day, i tried to make sure that i stress that this was my opinion. [i]That i'm just not a fan of Thermaltake anymore.[/i] I hope that i haven't upset anyone.

The $2000 Build.

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:29:47 GMT

didnt' actually say that they was rubish. More the build quality of the PSU's.

The $2000 Build.

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 10:47:03 GMT

... strange... my first reply got moderated... anyway. I never said the Armour+ was hard to use, just that it was my last TT case. If you haven't guessed, i'm a frequent LANer, and they is heavy! At the end of the day, especially with water cooling gear, system weighing in excess of 45KG, (was as heavy if not heavier then my 21inch Sony CRT @ the time), wasn't fun to lug around. AND i've had 2 armour+ case. First one was the Black Steel, (so dry they is 20KG+, doesn't help the above problem), and then a Silver Alloy, (dry >7kg), but with all my gear in it, was very top heavy, and my wife destroy that comp wont day when she bumped it. (Considering this was something like 7yrs ago, the WC gear was custom made, solid copper CPU GPU and NB blocks, using an Eheim pump and a Motorcycle radiator, PSU and HDD's were mounted in the top back of the case) Next Case was a Coolermaster Wave case, that i had custom painted, (2PAC Possum Borne WRC Blue), and from there, fell inlove with Coolermaster gear. The best thing about the CM690, and even more so with the CM Scout case, is there's alot of room between the motherboard tray and the Side panel to hide cables. i'll take a picture and post my setup in my CM690 when i get a chance. All things considered. my SG03 case is the hardest case i've ever had to work on. i had to specifically use the ZEUS PSU, as at them time, it was the only Modular PS i could find that had a single high AMP Rail. EVERYTHING in that system runs off 1 strand. apart from the Video cards. And it's still a mess in there. but it's one trip from the car, and i can set it up behind my monitor, decressing my LAN foot print, consdiering the 24inch monitor

The $2500 Build.

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 11:15:51 GMT

CPU - i7 930 @ $358 M/board - Asrock x58 Extreme SLI/CF - $215 Mem - Kingston HyperX triple pack 6gb - $199 Video - 2x Sapphire 5850's in CF - $718 total both cards Case - Aerocool BX500 - $178 PSU - Corsair TX950 - $259 Cooling - CPU stock, extra fans - Coolermaster 4x12cm value pack - $29 Optical - Benq DVD+/-RW - $36 HDD OPsystem - Corsair SSD xtrene X32gb - $189 HDD Storage - Samsung 1.5TB - $127 Opsystem - Windows 7 HP 64bit - $128 Total - $2436 Obviously, you'll need to tell windows to point profile information to the 1.5tb for storage. i was tosing up with a 4x RAID 0 on 500gb Seagates, but i wasn't sure about how you guys would take it. i dont have a problem, as all my critical data isn't held on my main system. There's always a backup

Master Builder slip up ? psu requirement

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 11:34:20 GMT

ok, he's right and wrong really. The rateing that nvidia gives assumes you're planing to use a "Cheap" PSU, were that power rating is the MAX value. Most cheap PSU's state the MAX power rating, so if you go in and buy a 650w $60 PSU, that's 650w MAX, probly 400w nominal, or maximum continuous. bit like PMPO and RMS in stereos. Neither are wrong, or at the end of the day, misleading. but you get what you pay for. Point of fact, my Enermax PSU is rated @ 600w nominal, but has a max power rating of 700w. Which @ the end of the day, considering i bought that PSU 8 years ago, crazy back then. All Antec PSU's state Nominal/max continuous Power. All Thermal Take PSU's more expensive then $100 state nominal, Corsair PSU, Enermax, Tagan, (thou i've had a few Tagan's blow out due to bad Qual. control)... Again, @ the end of the day, you get what you pay for. Also, you have to keep in mind amperage over the rails as well. There's no point having a 700w PSU, with 6 rails, were each rail only supplies 16 amps, (i beleive the GTX280 and 295 require a minimum of 18amp accross 2x rails regardless of wattage). Yes, i would have said that his PSU choice is bad, only cos the Asus PSU only supplies 16amps across each of it's 3 rails. Antec 650 True Power New 4x 12v rails, 22amp each, 648w continuous. Asus dont state if the Max load of 631.5w is continuous. [i]the above is for power over the 12v rails only, and taken from Asus's Aust site, and Antec Global site. Personally, i cant confirm that these ratings are current or correct. To get the total rating, they add the 3.3 and 5v rails as well.[/i] As long as it can supply that power for, [i][b]i think [/b][/i], min 30secs, they can state that rating... SOOO... if he had run, say, an Antec TP-650, i'd agree with him, yes, that will run the system. He didn't, and the asus from what i can gather for the numbers on the asus aust website, wont run that system for any great length of time. You run a PSU @ 100% load and current draw, cap's start to blow, PSU lasts 12month max.

Master Builder slip up ? psu requirement

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 11:38:34 GMT

[quote=Chris.Lampard] ... i was sitting there going "how did this noob make it in" when he can not even research the right PSU lol, least i put some effort in[/quote] Agreed... from what i can gather, my only mistake was using an i5 CPU, not an i7.

Master Builder slip up ? psu requirement

Tue, 06 Apr 2010 11:41:10 GMT

AND the truely scarey thing is, from the GD site again Antec TP-650 - $139 Asus U-65GA - $165 ZOMG

The $2000 Build.

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 09:32:49 GMT

[quote=rogue316]16.6kgs Black and 10.2kgs Silver[/quote] ... i got mine when they was just an amour - No funky plasic on top, no 25cm fan. alloy was 7kg with nothing in it... The main reason i like the CM Stuff - the Alloy cases run 4-5mm alloy, were most only 2-3mm. even some lian-li cases feel "cheap" in comparison...

Removing Ubuntu

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 16:48:38 GMT

i think it's bartPE that will fix this? the MBR no longer there or is nolonger recognizable to the installer at a guess. I'm pretty sure that will have a tool to fix it. The disk(s) you speak of, are there lots of them, (read more then a floppy or a single CD with the manufacturor on it)? if there are, there shouldn't be a recovery partition, and you'll be able to Zero fill the HDD or something that drastic, if you want. If not, your windows installation will be on a hidden partition on the drive, and if you remove it, your recovery disks wont work. That said, that s/n on the bottom of you laptop is for OEM windows, so as long as you get the right verison, (soo, if the sticker says Windows Home, you'll need to borrow a windows Home OEM disk), you should be OK I guess the other option is replace the HDD with a new Bigger one. They aren't THAT expensive. At the end of the day, the way i look @ it, my times worth X amount, i've just spent Y amount of time working on this, if X times Y = more then the cost of a new HDD, then i've wasted my time... but that's just me :)

Removing Ubuntu

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:00:33 GMT

[quote=EvilChickenMonkey]Any full XP installation disc should be able to do a recovery install. I don't know if version (pro, home etc) matters. [/quote] ummm... sort of. You can do a repair install of windows if you have either the same version, or the higher version of XP. Soo, if you have Home, you can use the Pro disk to repair the install, thou technically this will be classed as an upgrade, and it will use the Pro CD-Key, not the Home one. you can't use Home to repair a Pro installation. This does not work in Vista/win 7 You break an install, there's no REAL repair path. Theoretically, the above is an upgrade, not a repair, and the only way to repair vista/win7 is in the op system. The repair util in the vista/win7 disk is relatively good, 50-70% effective, but if it can't fix it and it still wont boot , sux to be you. USUALLY if you are getting BSOD's, and you're positive that it's not a hardware problem, you can manually do a system restore, if Safe more, and load last good know config dont work. you'll need another computer, perferably Win7 Pro, as you'll need to take ownership of a very hidden file. (very hidden in XP, i've only had to do the manual thing to a vista install once, and it's in a completely different spot) BUT this has gone a little off topic... The problem is the Ubuntu install has broken, for lack of a better work, the MBR, and now windows, (i'm assuming that's what you're tryin to re-install), wont work?

Removing Ubuntu

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 17:04:34 GMT

ZOMG... Aquired a "new" laptop @ work, it's awesome spec, for a freebie, but the "R" key has been smashed, and works as long as you're rough, and the "Down Arrow" Key's just broken. you have no idea how bad it is, when you touch type, and have to go back to edit a post missing 1/2 of the R, and the you can't use a keypad to scroll down RAH. (still under warrenty thou... might see if i can scam a new Keyboard *grin*)

Should I use a LINUX Distro?

Tue, 18 May 2010 14:23:42 GMT

MOST linux distros have what's call a LIVE CD. Lets you run linux straight off a CD-rom, and you test/try without having to install the opsystem. handy if you've got a working system with windows on it, and dont really wanna remove it. Downside is, and this should be obvious, running it off a CD is slow. USUALLY there's an install option or button if you like it. i say this only cos... if you're asking us IF you should, chances are the answer is NO. Linux will not run any windows software, (without emulation), and even thou there is usually a Opensource equiv, you'll need to know how to download and install them. Ubuntu has a GUI that will handle most downloads/installs, but not all, and if you're planning to run any CHEAP equipment, (Wifi cards, modems, sound cards, stuff like that), that use software to do alot of the processing, chances are no-one's made a linux driver for it, (read, wont work). Also, even thou there has been alot of work done to add support, DIRECTX is a Windows standard, so isn't really evailable in linux. Only openGL. There are, more so now then before, games out there that are writen to run in openGL, so can be made to work in linux, but they wont look as good, or run as fast. I'm sure if you haven't bought the system yet, if you shop around you'll be able to save $50-$100, and you'll then be able to buy a copy of windows 7. You ONLY need Home Premium. what you get extra in pro and ultimate aren't usually used or needed by the everyday user

Should I use a LINUX Distro?

Tue, 18 May 2010 14:26:51 GMT

oh yeah. SOMETIMES it difficult to install windows on a machine that's been formatted to run Linux. Hence the live CD's a good idea. Sorry, but i have no idea what you're level of expertise. i've been doing this for over 20 years, and had a hard time on occasion with linux systems

Data Recovery

Sat, 25 Dec 2010 20:11:52 GMT

there are software out there that will ignore partition and format information, and just look for the start and end of a file, and copy the data inbetween. Google photorec I used this to recover data on a SD card that failed. Worked and best of all it was free. The only down side is, as it ignores the partition table, you dont get correct file names. I do DR for a living, but i've never really had to try and recover a linux part. We've done a MAC one, and that was a lot of work, (read we charged the client alot of money), as we had to build a hackingtosh to access the date. All part of the fun i guess

Data Recovery

Mon, 03 Jan 2011 18:00:38 GMT

OH! i thinki found what you need. R-Studio will read pretty much any partition type. I just lost my file server array... (don't ask how, just i've been fighting with it since i got back from Xmas... guessing my old xeon server over heated, and it crashed)... anyway, i've been looking for something that can fix the partition, and in my fuzzy headed post-xmas and new years haze, i forgot that we've used it to recover data before. it'll even build a software RAID array, if a controler dies. and for all it does, it starts @ like 50USD. google r-studio

Install Distro from APC Cover DVD

Mon, 14 Mar 2011 23:44:40 GMT

ALL "live CD" distros i've played with have an "install me now" shortcut on the desktop. you've probably alread got it installed now so it dont matter, but i stumbled across Easy Peasy linux, which is a cut down ver of ubuntu for Netbooks, that, if you got to the website's download page, has a utility that will let you download an ISO, or using an ISO you already have, create bootable USB "live CD"s much faster then CD's, and make's life easyer if you dont have a CD-ROM in the system, (EG netbooks). so far the only thing i haven't been able to do is get the EEEPC to connect to the wifi during start up. Must log into the OS, then load XBMC. can't use XBMC as Shell. it's either the install's security, or i can't code the conf file right... Meh. One day' i'll work it out

Mirror sever problems

Wed, 30 Mar 2011 10:28:58 GMT

[quote=The Evil One]You accessed it with Filezila with no problems, but you did not actually try to download anything let alone perform multiple simultaneous downloads.[/quote] Yes, i'm pretty sure i said that i didn't try, and i'm pretty sure you didn't say you were trying to download more then one thing @ A time. You WERE Trying to access an FTP site via an HTML browser. USUALLY, there's a very basic FTP ability in the browser, but using an actual FTP progrom will give you a more stable connection usually. [quote=The Evil One]However if I have more than one download from mirror.optus.com going at the same time, they finish prematurely. for example a file which should be 641M is marked as finished at a size of 572M or that of a file whose size is 694M is marked finished at 200M.[/quote] Most FREE download servers will limit the amount of concurrent connections per IP address. it sounds like this is what the optus is doing. These things are also posted via Torrents, as this will put less strain, (read Cost Less), on the servers posting these ISO's. Maybe something to look into

Mirror sever problems

Wed, 30 Mar 2011 20:33:13 GMT

[quote=The Evil One]You can access mirror.optus.net either using either ftp or http protocols[/quote] umm, ok, sort of. you can access any server's file list if there's no index.html file and/or no .htaccess file blocking access to said files. If you google "Index of /" (include the "" or it might not work) you'll get backdoor access to servers that dont have a .htaccess file on the server. BUT ALL these files you are looking @ are on the same HDD, on the same server that mirror.optusnet.com.au resolves to - 211.29.132.60 and 211.29.132.93 (WHICH could well be the same server, but both of it's Network cards) [quote=The Evil One] The original link URL I had to it started with "http://" so I was accessing it via http, however editing a url in the adress bar to change "http" to "ftp" resulted in the same information (a level in a directory hierarchy being displayed) but with different formatting[/quote] This is irrelevant. mirror.optusnet.com.au will resolve to the same server, accessing the same files. you adding the http:// and ftp:// is really just telling your browser to access the files using with the HTTP rendering engine in your browser, or the FTP plug in. [quote=The Evil One]I don't think it is a strategy by Optus to limit simultaneous downloads, if it is it is a very mean strategy,rather I think thee is a bug in the server and it is not properly distinguishing multiple downloads to the same target ip address.[/quote] ummm... ok, just cos it's "very mean" doesn't mean that it's not what happening. support.asus.com.au has 3 different ways to download their driver files, (or is it just 2, meh, it's more then one anyway), and you can only have 2 concurrent connections running, even if you point it to different servers, (you have a few choices), and are using different computers in teh same "office", (believe me, i've tried) As you know, bandwidth's not "Free", so an "acceptable use policy", for someone that's not an optus client, if i was running the show, would be 1 connection @ anyone time. Why it's disconnecting you, or you getting incomplete files, could be a number of things. Do you know exactly how TCP/IP works? you send a request for the file, the server sends you the start of the file, and waits for a responce to say from you're computer to say, yes, i have this start. The little bit of information is a "packet" most packets are no more then 1452bytes, in which, if i remember correctly 160bytes are start and finish of the packet. your download client, depending on how it desides to do it, will either request the size of the file, create a file of that size, then fill it with the data as it's recieved, OR it will just keep adding data until it gets the end of file, (EOF) packet. The later is easier to code, SO at a guess, since both Seamonkey AND "sun downloader" are Open source, and no-one's getting paid to write the code to make this work @ the end of the day, they are going to do it the Easy way. [b][i]OR optus is limiting the amount of KB you are allowed to download over a given amount of time, and cos it know's you're not a customer, (the IP address that you have been given by your ISP is outside the range of IP addresses that the OPTUS DNS servers have been assigned), the mirror server's going, you've had enuf for now, DISCONNECT![/i][/b] (personally i think that's what's going on) I honestly dont think there's anything wrong with the way Optus is handling what you're trying to do. i would honestly try and use an actually FTP program to download these files, and, like i said, as you are not a paying Optus Customer, (which you stated earlier), you're going to have troubles downloading more then one thing @ a time. Which ISP are you with anyway? Most ISP's have a mirror server available with all this stuff anyway, and they USUALLY dont count towards your monthly limit

Mirror sever problems

Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:03:27 GMT

[quote=The Evil One]The server still exists but is not working and has not been working for several years.[/quote] ACUTALLY, mirror.pacific.net.au resolves to madheifer.pacific.net.au which isn't excepting trafic [quote=The Evil One]Some time ago I complained to Pacific technical support about its non functionality but with no result.[/quote] sooo... if they cant/wont help, why stay with them? Optus - $79, 120gb, (twice what pac net offer on comparable plan), AND you get phone, for $5 more? Why wouldn't you change!!! And that's just me looking up what optus offer, cos you wanna download off their mirror server. meh, you lose your @pacific.net.au email address, but big deal! make a gmail one, and get it to download all your pop mail! it's free, and you can connect it to your smart phone really easy I dont know buddy, i think you're honestly makin' this hard on yourself :) BUT, i can't tell you what to do, it's all up to you

Should I use a LINUX Distro?

Thu, 31 Mar 2011 15:46:56 GMT

i actually stumbled on Easy Peasy linux. it's very striped down ver of ubuntu, for netbooks, specifically the Asus EEEPC 701's. i wanted to run moblin, but they only seem to run on atom CPUs, (or more to the point, DONT seem to run on the Celeron CPU that's in the EEEPC701). Best thing about it is the download and the program it uses to create the USB to do the install. The program used is called unetbootin [url=http://unetbootin.sourceforge.net/]-Click here for page-[/url]. This progrom will create a bootable USB stick with an ISO you've downloaded, or it will download a distro for you if you select one. painless, and effective. I installed EPL, then XBMC, and i can watch video off my server, and as long as it's lower then 480P res, it's perfect. the 701's only got a 4gb SSD, and once EPL is installed XBMC is downloaded, and updated, there's about 200kb left. Little thing sites on my bed side, so if i can't sleep, and cant read, (light keeps up baby...), i can watch something. The only thing i couldn't get to work properly, (i gave up, wasn't worth the time i was spending on it), was scripting the WIFI to connect to my network before XBMC loaded, (you can automate that load). I log into EPL, i let the WIFI connect, i open XBMC, magic. BUT anyway, give that unetbootin a go. it will give you easy access to alot of linux distros, and running live off a USB key it infinately faster then off a CD, (ALMOST laptop HDD fast).

Mirror sever problems

Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:26:42 GMT

ummm... how were you accessing the files? you realize that mirror.optus.net is an FTP site? i accessed it via Filezila no problems, (just typed in mirror.optus.net into quickconnect), thou admitedly i didnt download anything. Since i'm assuming that you wanna drop this stuff from the optus servers as you're on optus, it's free bandwidth, give that a go? i've also found a funky little program that will let you chose, download and create a live USB "CD". Internally, it'll let you chose an download a varity of distros, and will let you use an ISO's you're downloaded already. it's called unetbootin - [url=http://unetbootin.sourceforge.net/unetbootin-windows-latest.exe]Click here for download off sourceforge[/url]

Uninstall Ubunta

Sat, 30 Apr 2011 09:22:06 GMT

you SHOULD be able to delete the partitions using DISKPART in the command prompt. Since HDD's are SOOO Cheap these days, i would have bought a cheap 500gb drive to install linux on, and swap between the 2 in the bios. save you mucking around with a bootloader. anyway... YES, make sure it's all backed up, and if you DOOO screw up somehting, you can recover. sO, step one, you need to load a command prompt, in administrator mode if using vista/win7 XP instruction - click Start > run > type CMD, click ok Vista/win7 click start bubble > type CMD in the search bar, wait till the CMD.exe show above in the results, right click, click run as admin once you the prompt, type DISKPART type LIST DISK work out which disk the partition is on, SELECT DISK LIST PART find the partition that's the issue SELECT PART no, i haven't had to do this personally, i never partition my drives... i never see the need, but try - FORMAT fs=NTFS quick if not DELETE PART CREATE PART PRIMARY ASSIGN FORMAT fs=NTFS quick PLEASE make sure that you select the correct partitions, it usually does not ask you if you REALLY want to, and you will lose everything on that partition. sooo, you select the windows one, and bye bye data. and as i have managed to delete the wrong partition once, doing the above, even with the Data recovery software we us, you get some data back, but you'll never get it back to the same state before you delete the partition, (so windows wont work). Luckily i was only after 1 file, but it still took ages to get back...

Media Go Installation/Upgrade Issues

Sat, 16 Apr 2011 15:32:08 GMT

a permissions issue? can you make new file in that folder? if not, that's you problem. without knowing the control software used, i dont know how you'd make changes to the permissions, if that's the problem.

Illustrator

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 20:44:41 GMT

google Adobe Tutorials, or Illistrator tutorials, and you'll find something from complete novice to advanced tut's worth a shot. Angus and Robins and Border's parent company is pretty much in administration.... the AAR @ my local shopping Center is closing down, 50% everything. might for some reference material

liepuu

Thu, 05 May 2011 15:40:31 GMT

personally, i would first download and run malwarebytes anti-malware on your system and that memory card Malwarebytes might even fix this, without knowing what you have in the way of an op system but - if you have XP, right click on the card, and hit explore If vista/win7 right click and hit open in new window... basically anything that will open the card that is NOT "autorun" if you still have issues, google "Free data recovery memory card" and you'll find some funkcy litle programs that will pull them off... i had a SD card that would tell me that it needed formating, (the FAT was broken) didn't lose a photo. (thou i can't remember what it is called, sorry.... that was the search i used in google thou)

Autodesk 3ds - Camera issue

Tue, 24 May 2011 09:50:29 GMT

i've been thinking about this, and i havne't had much exposure with 3DS in ages, but Adobe a known for doing some really dumb things. I mean, Photo shop - to save to CS3 ver of a PSD, and you run CS5, you need CS4 installed, as you can only save back 1 Gen of the software. maybe the ver of 3DS you were running in Linux save a slightly different way to the windows ver. Have you tried removing the camera, saving the file in windows, then open it, ad camera, save again, see if it works? Can you make a camera a light source? If so, in the config, have you checked to see if that's turned on? i don tknow man, you'd know more about this software than me... Or probably most ppl that troll this forum

Autodesk 3ds - Camera issue

Tue, 24 May 2011 09:51:52 GMT

just read your post again, (was late last nite when i read it the first time), i guess you have tried everything i said... sorry :)

Watch Out For Slysoft!!!

Fri, 20 May 2011 08:12:08 GMT

the other side of this coin is, the only reason u need to run anydvd is a) so you can play DVD's that aren't Region 4 on a player/writer that's now region locked b) are trying to copy DVD/Blu-rays. both of which are pretty much a no-no. the only reason i can see that you would legitmately need anydvd running is you have a HD-DVD player, and your playback software no-longer supports HD-DVD format. which is my problem... thou there is better solutions then anyDVD if you're savy enough.

jpg to jpeg conversion?

Wed, 08 Jun 2011 19:30:10 GMT

ren .jpg .jpeg they are the same file type, a jpeg. jpg is the short hand.

Best anti-virus software

Wed, 19 Jan 2011 00:27:41 GMT

it might not freaze you PC, but if it breaks in anyway, it breaks the winsock and windows firewall. Broken means no TCP/IP Traffic, so no net and the awesome thing it does when it's un-installing is delete the unstall program first. so if it doesn't finish the un-install, (which it will if there's anything even remotely wrong with it), you can't run the un-install program anyway the amount of PC's i've seen with broken nortons and no net is awesome. Have you ever tried to fix it without a norton's removal program? takes about 4 hours to fix the regitry. Kaspersky's is about the only AV software i'd buy. MS Security Essentials is good for a freeby but the best thing to do would be to know identify the threat, and how to remove it once it's there. All pc's run faster without TSR AV software

Multi-seat system

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 14:03:23 GMT

i guess the downside will be hardware limitations. for every user, you'll need enough hardware to run the same number of Keyboard, mouse and Monitors sets. so i can see a limitation of 2-3 ppl, dependant on the Video card's you'r using. And @ the end of the day, you may not end up saving anymoney in the long run. Seeing as i'm sure you'll need to buy the software, over the computer that's 3x as fast for 3 users, over buying 3 slower laptops. you know what i mean... sorry, the above doesn't sound right... but you get the idea

Cloning a hard drive

Mon, 03 Jan 2011 17:56:40 GMT

that is fair, and i do agree, but if all he wants to do is run a faster drive a ghost image to the faster drive is quickery, (read: you can hit GO, and go to bed, and in the morning, it's done!) I did the same with my laptop, 5400rpm to 7200rpm drive. if i remember ghost took an hour or so, and the only thing that is an issue, if you could call it that, is now my win7 bootloader partition is visable in my computer. Tried for about 30 mins to make it disappear, but i only managed to make it no longer accesable and it didn't boot. There is pros and cons regardless on what you do, (con for Slatt's is time consuming...), so it's up to you.

Cloning a hard drive

Sun, 02 Jan 2011 22:19:12 GMT

You COULD do what Slatts said, but a quicker way definately would be to ghost the HDD's Nortons ghost is pretty much the only good bit of software that symantec has ever writen, but you will find a bunch of nifty HDD and DATA cloning programs on the Ultimate Boot CD, which any computer tech worth his salt will know about. If not, google UBCD The one you'll end up using i'm sure will require you to have a HDD bigger then the one you are cloning, and i think will only more 1gb per second. (i can't remember the name of it). If you can get a hold of ghost v12, use it.

Video capture software for Canon Digital

Mon, 13 Dec 2010 13:25:24 GMT

ok, i didnt realize it had soo much on-board memory. i guess the options are - 1) install a dual boot of XP on your machine, 2) If u have a spare PC, install XP on it, and use that to drop the video onto an ext. HDD 3) go buy win7 pro, and upgrade the ver you have, so you can use XP mode. 4) Wait till Canon solves this problem. you'll need to work out what's the more cost effective.

Photoshop is very time consuming to use

Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:49:10 GMT

... like how this seemed to start as just a rant, as he's not actually told us what he's trying to do. I have been using PS since ver 7, (and imageready!!! soo miss that bit of software), and once you work out the k/b shortcuts, can build a pretty HTML based webpage within an hour. the latest gear from adobe is awesome. I've had a quick play with CS5, and it's substantially faster and more powerful then CS4, (or should i say, it take more advantage of the hardware it's installed on, over the it's previous versions). My only grip is everytime the release a version, things are in a different place, called something new, blah blah blah. For a typical computer user, it can cause confusion. THAT siad, it now actually looks like the mac version, which is good, cos most tut's show the mac screenshots... ANYWay...

Video capture software for Canon Digital

Tue, 07 Dec 2010 11:45:38 GMT

Sooo.... if you've got win 7 pro or above, try running it in XP Mode. If not, ulead maybe?

Video capture software for Canon Digital

Thu, 09 Dec 2010 00:18:20 GMT

ulead is video editing software and you can't have tried XP mode, as it's only available for Win7 pro and above you have tried seeing if a new version of the software @ the canon site???

Video capture software for Canon Digital

Sun, 12 Dec 2010 17:13:58 GMT

ummmm.,..., isn't it on a SD card or soemthing? IF so, why not buy a $20 card reader? it'll be faster then using the camera to download content, even if it DID work properly [quote=Nev] Going through that process I am asked if I want to try XP SP2 or XP SP3 mode[/quote] That's not REALLY XP mode. XP mode ACTUALLY runs a VM session of windows XP in memory.

Virus Protection - Does It Really Work?

Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:43:06 GMT

[quote=Slatts]The best antivirus software you can use is, in fact wetware. (you know, biological..).[/quote] Yeah... Unfortunately, "problem exsists between keyboard and chair" errors are way to common. Alot of stuff can be avoided with a little thing i like to call common sense. THAT said. i have noticed that there's alot of Adware, which are not virus's as such, but will turn of most AV software, and give you lovely, "you have a million virus's" message. you pay them, you get a awefull AV program you can't get rid of, and noy much else As these aren't really Virus's, like i said, most AV software ignore them. EG let them install onto your system. [b]This is un-confirmed! [/b]It's the only thing that i can think as i see the above 95% of the time @ the office. sounds anoying? get's better. once on there, the first thing is does is turn off the AV software, including windows defender and firewall usually. So computer is not completely un-protected, and you'll start getting real virus's on your comp. Joy. Windows XP Antivirus Windows 2009 and 2010 antivirus, Mywebseach to name a few are all Adware. Again, and i'm not a client, or getting kick backs, but i've found, bar none as-so-far, anything better to rid your system after the fact, malwarebytes anti-malware, and combofix if it's nasty and only get combofix from thebleepingcomputer.com ANYwhere else, and you'll be picking up a trojan or rootkit. in the circles, its very well known, and if you're not careful, it'll be an exploit

Virus Protection - Does It Really Work?

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 12:01:34 GMT

i think i have said this before, but nothing is 100% secure, and unfortunately, the more AV software you have installed, the greater the chance they will conflict, and actually block each other. install something that is better then nothing, (and no, nortons isn't better then nothing...), and have something that isn't a TSR on standby. I swear by Malwarebytes Anti-malware, and Combofix if it's really nasty. and/or have alll your critical data somewere safe, so a reinstall isn't tooo dramatic

Re sizing images in Photoshop

Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:31:48 GMT

Hey, if all you are trying to do is make it more "email Freindly" then insted of worrying about pixels and the like, just change the DPI. Most "BIG" photo's you take will have a DPI, (dots per inch) of 200-300. the web only requires 72 DPI. In Photoshop, open the image, (i find it easier to drag the image out of the folder into PS once it's open), and goto image > image size ... and change the "resolution" to 72. hit ok. The image will probable shrink to a little image. it's probable zoomed in, easiest way to work with this is open the navigator is it's not already, and change the zoom to 100%. Once it's all ok, you want to save for web and devices, (or just save for web if you using pre CS2), of hold press Alt + Ctrl + Shift + S. This will let you save the image you've just resized, without effect your orignal high res image. Hope this helps.

DVD Ripping and Copying

Fri, 14 May 2010 12:16:42 GMT

[url=http://handbrake.fr/]Handbrake[/url] if you can get it to work. I have used this to conver VOB files to MKV's flawlessly, and it's sposed to rip directly from the DVD, but i coundlt get it to work. Though i only tried with one CD, and i'm honestly don't even know if that DVD-RW drive ACTUALLY works... Haven't used it in a while

Best anti-virus software

Tue, 11 May 2010 13:31:41 GMT

Just throwing it out there, from experience in the industry, [b]NO [/b]AV software will every be more then 98% effective. Where i work now, I've been looking after Virus removal on client's systems for over 2 years specifically, and have noticed that, Friday nite, there's a peek Virus infection, with monday/tuesday AV updates are released @ A guess, the Hacker's bored on a friday nite, Due to their anti-social tendancy, and, typically, WOW raids don't happen then either maybe?, so they code, or typically just modify/mutate a virus. Soo, the weekend there's an infection, and then monday it's found by the AV companies, and the definition update's get posted. Not much you can do about that. EVERYONE that gets inflicted will have a "BAD" experience with that AV software they had installed when the above happens. There's also ADWARE. Windows XP Antivirus, Antivirus 2010, stuff that just POP's up installed on your machine, telling you you have an infection, and you need to buy their software to get rid of it. Paying for it, you get rid of a message. That's it. TECHNICALLY these aren't viruses, and until recently, i'm sure AV software didn't do anything about them. But the first thing they will do is turn off or block you're installed AV software, and even disable your firewall. then you get infected.

Best anti-virus software

Tue, 11 May 2010 13:39:36 GMT

as i'm usually fixing these after the fact, i've had 99.5% success rate with Malwarebytes anti-malware, as long as you can get it to load/install Alot of virii will block this, so becarefull. out of that .5%, .49% i have recovered via combofix.exe. Aslong as you get that from the right place, no it's not a trojan. that .01% was the Conflicker or April 1st Virus last year. And only on a SBS2003/client network. it lookes like it was built to pull down businesses running Windows server. once on the network it was VERY difficult to remove. The only company that, @ the time, (talking right on april last year), had a removal tool was Kaspersky. For the 10days i took me to identify what it was, and what it doing, the removal tool only took a few hours to remove it off the server, and 20 odd clients. Currently, we're installing on cleints after a virus event Microsoft Security Essentials. It's light, fast, FREE, (Free microsoft stuff? GET OUT!!) and better then nothing. I personally NEVER recomend AV software to anyone, cos they are not 100% effective, and that one time they do something stupid, that's my fault.

Best anti-virus software

Tue, 11 May 2010 13:43:05 GMT

OH YEAH! one of the BIGGEST Things you MUST make sure you are doing is letting System restore work. [i][b]NEVER turn of that service.[/b][/i] it's common that after removing that virus off your system, the registry will be corrupted. If you have system restore running, worst case, you can pull the drive, and extract the registry from the "SysVolInfo" folder, if you know what you doing, (effectively doing a manual system restore)

Best corporate protection

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 09:38:05 GMT

I hate Symantic software, but Norton AV Corporate editions are very good, lite, and actually work, (unlike the SOHO versions...) Their Exchange spam filter is the best. BUT it can become a little expensive

Office Registration Issue

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 12:52:45 GMT

i'm guessing that you're on a laptop, that come with office eval pre-installed, and you didn't uninstall it prior to installing your ver of 2010 plus. See @ the top were it says office starter? what's making me think that this is the issue. go into programs and features and see if there's anything installed that's like office activation assistant, or trail verson or something, basically other than the pro ver you've installed and remove it. becareful thou, if you aren't sure, google it first, and it'll tell you what it is. [b]Again, this is a guess. [/b]the image just shows that it's trying to activate a copy of office starter. Please becareful when you uninstall stuff, and make sure you have a copy of the office software handy incase you remove too much you shouldn't have too much issue re-installing and re-activating the office. worst case, you have to ring and talk to a computer to give you a new activation code, but that shouldn't be a problem

Best video converter??

Thu, 23 Jun 2011 21:28:10 GMT

umm... ok, VLC is a media player, as so, will only plays what CODEC's you have installed, but is smart enough to play files that have been corrupted and just skip over the missing frames but anyway... Handbrake is powerfull, and fast for a free encoded, but requires some setup i am a huge fan of a program called mediacoder. it's free, but comes in a number of different flavours, aimed specifically to media devices. i use the one for the iphone/ipod/ipad. There is a version that will convert anything to anything, but setting it up gets complicated

Any dreamweaver tutorials?

Sun, 11 Mar 2012 19:37:16 GMT

Dreamweaver is in essence a HTML editor with a GUI, so i would start learning HTML then you will find DW alot easier to use. Start with this - [url=http://www.w3schools.com/]http://www.w3schools.com/[/url] i use them alot when i'm codein PHP. Also, when i build basic HTML sites, i start the design with Photoshop, and use dreamweaver to tidy up the code. If you google "Dreamweaver turorial" and "Tutorial to use Photoshop to build a webpage" you'll find more than enough sites to do what you want hope this helps

Finally broke free from facebook...

Tue, 31 May 2011 19:22:43 GMT

that farm game? or that damn fish tank game my sister plays...

Finally broke free from facebook...

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 13:35:27 GMT

could have been worse... could have been MSN with swords, i mean World or Warcraft.

Finally broke free from facebook...

Tue, 31 May 2011 09:48:41 GMT

hey rogue, long time no speaky! i only set up my facebook to share baby foto's with close freinds and family. my wife uses it more then me...

STEAM - The best games to date

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 15:03:06 GMT

Steam is pretty cool... one thing i have noticed today is they have released a handful of Free to Play MMORPG's, of which i'd be interested in playing Global Agenda. They only downside would be it's a shooter, and if it's free, there will be limited/no aust servers. so it'd lag like a biatch. [url=http://store.steampowered.com/genre/Free%20to%20Play/]check it out here [/url] looks like they are hoping for some micro transactions in game, like League of Legends.

Internet Explorer 9... Any Problems

Mon, 23 May 2011 08:50:35 GMT

they only issue wi've come accross is some of the site I admin, the Java on them is a little glitchy on my install, (thou they see to work find on other machines). It's either the ver of Java i have installed, (i need to run an old one so i can talk to a Cisco device), or just this is a very old install of win7. I just use Chrome to access the sites i have trouble with. works fine. (some of the features in Joomla 1.5 glitch is you're curious)

IE users less intelligent?

Fri, 05 Aug 2011 12:20:30 GMT

[quote=Peter try hard]are either forced to sue the browser [/quote] HUH? how do you sue a browser. i mean, i remember netscape or something trying to sue MS for including IE in windows years ago, for anti-trust, (looked it up, wsa in 2002)... obviously that worked... netscape? what?

IE users less intelligent?

Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:06:10 GMT

i have no issues using a different browser, i AM too lazy to install a different browers, does that make more less intelligent?

Why do you need a custom made website?

Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:00:34 GMT

seeing as i work in this field as well, i find that the worst part of working FOR someone that wants a site is getting from them what they want, when they dont know what they want, (usually just what they DONT want) if you as a client CAN'T convey what you need and what you want it to look @, and dont complain that it's not what you want either.

How can I download files from a web host

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:20:53 GMT

honestly, what you need to do is make a copy of the site on your computer, so you can make all the changes you want, and test, fault find, play to your hearts content, and not effect the live site. this is pretty easy, and if you need apache, (for PHP), or mysql you install a program called wampserver that turn your computer into a webserver, and you can test everything there. infact, if you know how to open the ports up, and havea static IP, and WANT to, you can use that program to host your owe website @ home but anyway... but to answer your question, use a FTP program like filezilla to download ALL the file on your site, and edit them from on your computer. i've never used dreamweaver to upload files like you are.

Newbie to DSLR.. Course suggestions?

Thu, 08 Sep 2011 12:07:18 GMT

the only thing i can point out that you may find with moving from film SLR and going to DSLR, is that cheaper DSLR cameras, (and this is something that is alot more promenant in older DSLR's and cheaper Point and shoot cams), is the images tend to be a little blue or cold i run a UV filter on my lens, to help combat that a little, but usually, if you open it up in, say, Photoshop, and add a little magenta, you'll fix the colouring Also, most DSLR's run the same len's as the film couterparts, and you will also find alot of fixed focal lenth non-AF lens on Ebay real cheap, that will just require an adaptor to make them work (as they have no electronics, you will need to run them in Apature priority or full manual mode to get them to work properly) That said, I have a Canon 350D, and i found that that above this ISN'T the worlds greatest idea. the adaptor pushes the ratio from 1.6 to 2 and ups the f-stop up to a full point. nikon's dont seem to have this problem. (but i like canon gear better, personally) Also, i bought a cool little "toy" lens on ebay for like $20, (landed), it's 50mm, 8 f-stop plastic lens that takes some funky pix :) (sorry a little off topic there)

Playstation 4 vs xbox 720 vs wii 2

Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:33:34 GMT

u can upgrade the cooling in a 360, it stop's it RRODing... :)

Car MP3 transmitter decent quality

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 10:16:16 GMT

unfortunately sound quality is limited to the fact that you are using FM, as the frequency of FM range of FM is alot less then the 20hz-20Khz of CD quailty, meaning they will always found Flat. if you absolutely have to use an FM transmiter, i've found the belkin gear good ask gear goes. better in build quality then the other stuff, but they all sound the same mind you, i've seen Strathfield car sound offering $100 CD players, which will sound infinately better, and cost you not much more over a decent FM transmitter

PS3 Network is back - Freebies now?

Tue, 24 May 2011 09:46:21 GMT

supposedly anyone that was on the network when it went down, get 2x free Digital downloads or something as per this link - [url=http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2011/05/sonys-welcome-back-playstation-package-detailed/]Click me[/url] i'm sure there will be others, getting ppl back online... but... was talking about the to some freinds... This would have been a company destroying event, if it had been any other company. Imagine if this had happened to Nintendo

Ipad 2 specs?

Thu, 03 Mar 2011 22:52:06 GMT

256mb, same as the ipad 1st gen. Why it's not important way of keeping cost down, i guess. i wonder if this new A5 Dual processor is fast as they say. "up to 9 times faster in graphics" They recon it's nicer, faster, better, but i still can't think of why i would ever want one. well, i can, but i dont travel enough to warrent it, (Watching a movie on a plane with on an iphone, was a little small. when my son's old enough to use one, it'll be the ipad 4 that said, he's 14months old, and you should see him with my ipod touch watching a movie... :)

Playstation 4 vs xbox 720 vs wii 2

Thu, 23 Jun 2011 20:49:53 GMT

until sony get's hacked again again...

Playstation 4 vs xbox 720 vs wii 2

Tue, 31 May 2011 13:33:20 GMT

what's really annoying is 90% all games coming out to the PC are console ports. BFBC2, Crysis 2, MW.... so all of these games are DX9 only... what a waste... it's a shame... hopefully the new PS4 and xbox will DX11, but who's to now hey?

3D or 4D?

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 10:12:16 GMT

From what i understand, time as a forth dimension is not confirmed, and 3D TV's give you the [i]illusion [/i]of depth. if you really wanna get into Quantum mechanics here, and i believe this is wat you're getting at - if the pixel is green @ X time, and Red @ Y time, then what will it be @ Z time? Still a pixel boys, still a pixel. Have you seen the screen in new Discovery? that shows movies on one side, and NAV on the other for the driver? and expansion on that would be, showing a slightly different view depending on you're angle to the screen and i think it's Philips working on something like that?

Dvico Tvix M6600N

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:24:06 GMT

if you get an extra channel after plugin in the other set top box, then it sounds like a gain issue. i had to spend silly money on digital booster and antanae for my place to get all the channels. with the plug, bit of plumber tape should fix it. obviously the above only fixes the problems, but no, i wouldn't be to happy either. I've played with Dvico equipment, and for the money, always found them a little lacking. That said, i hate FTA TV. so i probably wouldn't be in your situation :)

Handheld or Portable TV's

Thu, 29 Apr 2010 11:01:45 GMT

Seeing as this is a Computer Forum - Buy an EEEPC and a cheap USB TV tuna. (heheh.. fish) Or and iPad, and download pob casts :) hehehehe

Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:05:23 GMT

yeah... well.. consoles are only good for Car sims, and beat-em-ups. i've been playing PC games since the ibm 8086 CPU, (8mhz of pure speed), and the first game i played was Test Drive, in 16 Colour EGA glory, (yes, i'm old, was my 33rd b/day yesterday) CODMW1 was OK, was just too short. and the multiplay was, dificult? maybe not the word... CODWAW is awesome. nothing like decent zombie kill'n CODMW2 is crap. Single play was discribed to me as "has no soul" and i'd have to aggree with that. Who makes a game that if you try hard enuf you can complete in 4 hours, you end up dieing 4 times, and still charge you $100? and the multiplay is laggy, making even more dificult. BC BC2 is the best thing out there ATM. Still not perfect. but things rarely are. BC2 was good in the day, until one of the patches nerfed it, and all the 10yr olds what played got upset when you could pick them off from accross a map with the .50cal. but anyway. If they added prone to BC BC2, it'd be pretty much perfect.

C&C: Tiberian Sun - W7, 64bit

Tue, 25 Jan 2011 13:42:57 GMT

if you have win 7 pro or higher, then run it XP mode. (you'll need to download that and the VM updates) If you have Home Premium, you dont not have access to XPmode. And run in compatability mode isn't the same

protecting disc collection?

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:57:54 GMT

I found Handbrake an interesting free bit of software, (google handbrake software, should be the first hit) It does have a direct from disk function, but i never used it. it's perfect for converting everything to apple formart or MKV. it's not the fastest, but it IS free.

protecting disc collection?

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 13:16:58 GMT

i covered this mostly in your d-skin post but here's a snippet [i]@ the end of the day, As long as you own a copy of the movie/game/music, you are legally allowed to own a backup copy. How you aquire that copy is irrelevant. So download them off those torrent sites if you feel that making the digital copy is too hard. OR if you are just making archive copies, use a program called imgburn to make ISO's of the disk. it'll make it easy to burn copys after the fact, and it's the only program i've come accross that will burn 360 images properly.[/i] hope this helps

Splitting a cable feed

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:45:12 GMT

i have used a $7 Jaycar spliter to split the cable signal to a telstra cable modem, and a IQ Foxtel box with great success. I am not sure if this helps, BUT if you think this'll work, then it's $7 and worth a try maybe?

Splitting a cable feed

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 12:58:04 GMT

[quote=Ben00]what do I need sitting between the box and the two plugs on the wall to enable me to feed to both ports at the same time[/quote] i guess we kinda need to know what the plugs in the wall are...

Splitting a cable feed

Thu, 24 Feb 2011 14:44:32 GMT

if it is cat5, then there's a cat5 cable to the top and bottom floors, guessing to specific rooms, and a cheap router will do the job. Unless you want WIFI, but that's up to you. if this modem you are using has a router built into it, (you'll know this via the IP Address you get when you run ipconfig. it's it's a 10.0.x.x or a 192.168.x.x address, then there's a router on the modem), and you'll get away with using a switch. THAT said, TP link 150N router with 4port switch, nat, vpn, and a few other features, easy to set up, stable, and from $34 out of, (yeah yeah chris, i know), Gamedude, can't complain. the only thing it wont do all that well is WDS into an exsisting wifi network, but i've never seen a sub $150 router with that feature anyway... pretty sure it'll work if pointed to another tp link router. i was trying to point it to a netgear router we using as a stop-gap while we're trying to find time to cable the new office...

Splitting a cable feed

Sat, 26 Feb 2011 19:50:46 GMT

ok, so i'm guessing, you have a RJ45 plug in the wall, and you have one that goes to the study, one that goes upstairs, behind the TV i THINK you need to run the wireless router behind the tv, and run a cat 5 lead from the router to each of the ports behind the tv, then a switch, (cheap 5 port, will give you 4 ports in room), @ the other end. if you need the wifi up stairs, then you need to get an access point, or a wireless repeater WIFI's not an exact science. @ a guess, you have steal in floor, and is grounding the signal (read up on faraday cages, the prinical's the same)

Wireless Networking

Sat, 12 Mar 2011 21:16:05 GMT

your AV software detected a change in the network settings, and probably decided to start a new network profile, were the firewall's default is on, (i'm sure that's what happened after the update in firmware on your router), or if your REALLY unlucky and using Norton's, the AV kernel corrupt, panic'd, and blocked EVERY port. this usually happens when there is a problem un-installing NAV. It's the main reason i hate it soo much. most other AV's disable their firewall and re-enable the windows one if something goes wrong, (or so i've seen... correct me if that's wrong) i'm just glad nortons is aware that this is a problem, (if you could call it that i suppose), and they have a cleaning program. I guess the downside is it's a little hard to get online and download anything while NAV is blocking all trafic to the computer....

On the lookout for cheap broadband plans

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 08:58:27 GMT

if you can get ADSL2+ in your area, then workout how much you're going to download, (the hardest bit is working out how much bandwidth you'll need), and pick a plan depending on who you go with, check to make sure that just downstream bandwidth is counted, so if you have 50gb of downloads, they are just taking into accont what you download, not what you upload as well. most ADSL2+ are quite competative. If you, like me, can only get ADSL1, then Telstra's plan's the way to go. You get multiple service discounts, (200gb per month, $99, but i have 3 services with them, so i get $30 credit every month, well, that was what was available june-july last year), and they will connect the fastest service they can. Which is good, cos when i asked the tech, if ADSL2 is rolled out to your exchange, then you SHOULD get upgraded to ADSL2 for nothing. Most other providers and quite expensive on ADSL1 plans compaired. Hope this helps

On the lookout for cheap broadband plans

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 09:02:52 GMT

oh, forgot, the only problem with the telstra plans is they count upstream bandwidth, (what you upload), as part of you're monthly allowance typically, that wont be too much of an issue, but when ever you surf the web, packet requests get sent requesting data, and confirmation packets are sent back to confirm you recieved it. This is all uploads, all be it small ones. And if you decide to start downloading torrent, heaven forbid, all the time you are downloading, you're uploading to ppl that are downloading the same file. Just something to thinkn about If you only plan to surf the web, check email, and use stalkerbook, then 10-20gb should be heaps regardless

Wireless Networking

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 20:42:06 GMT

ok, gunna sound silly but check your time and date. if they arent the same, you'll have connection issues. If you can connect via IP address, chances are it's a WINS issue. eg, if you're computer's ip addess is 192.168.0.10 then \\192.168.0.10 will be the same as \\desktop-pc If it is a WINS problem, i'm sure you'll find a way to reset it on google check to make sure your fire wall settings haven't changed. Check and see that the wifi hasn't be put into the DMZ when you did the update Flush the DNS, (run ipconfig /flushdns) make sure the hostname is correct, (run the hostname command) see if you can ping each other, both via WINS name and ipaddress. Change the name of the desktop to reset the WINS's entry. Virus scan the laptop, might have a rootkit that's disrupting the access, or you're AV software has detected an error, and "panic'd" firewalling all ports but 80, (hence the net works) out of ideas... sorry

Router- 100Mb/s+

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 14:31:47 GMT

The downside is most Routers only have a 10mb/s WAN port. Going by a Gizmodo review the NETGEAR WNDR3700 RangeMax Dual Band Wireless-N Gigabit Router, (sorry, Cut/paste from the Gamedude site), AND the brief desc. off the GD site, looks like the gadget you're looking for, as it states a gigabit WAN port. Giz reveiwed it as basically awesome, with 2x the wireless, throu above all else. PERSONALLY i dont need more gear, but when my little ASUS router that i'm using as a WIFI AP fails, it's the router i'll look @ getting. GD have it listed @ $176. If you dont live in the Brisbane Metro area, you'll need to factor about $20 for postage, (@ a guess), and 4working day turn around, (7 real days with weekends and stuff). If you can find it local for less the $200, buy it.

Router- 100Mb/s+

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:19:03 GMT

ok, whats 270+ dollars now? That netgear routers only $176. hell, even shipped to Hobart, Tas, is only $19, (AND a 2 week wait, Thanx Aust post!), from Gamedude.com.au. [url=http://www.gamedude.com.au/prod_show.php?art_no=neNEwndr3700]Link to the Router on the GD site[/url]

Will broadband plans ever be unlimited?

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 10:36:49 GMT

not when more the 50% of the copper is owed by telstra, and they charge the resellers for bandwidth. MAYBE eventually on ADSL2, but we'll see. Actually i lie, you CAN get unlimited plans, but they are REALLY expensive, or slow. TPG business plans are such. Last time i checked, it was a Layer3 service, (read, very low latency), but 1500/512 and like $149 per month.

Router- 100Mb/s+

Fri, 05 Nov 2010 10:42:35 GMT

I See said the blind man... get a mate in Aust to buy it for you, and post it over! (if you call GD, they MIGHT send it to you. used to work there, if you're really nice, they might do it for you :) i worked out shipping for ... damn ... i can't remember the exact board, but it was a very limited edition DFI i think, we had the last 6 in the world this guy from sweden told me, and wanted them. they were 600AUD each, and the postage was more then that, (he wanted them air frieght). was crazy.

adsl modem the cause?

Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:43:19 GMT

i would have said the same thing... but i've had issues with TPG for ages NB5 droped out every 24hours like clockwork, change to NB6, was random within 7 days, (might take a day to drop out, might take a week), changed to an Asus N11 router and a netgear DG834, then it was completely random. I put it down to Netcomm = pooh, current modem over heating. I've since changed to Bigpond, and it's only dropped off once in the last 8 weeks i've been connected to them. So maybe it was the network all along... THAT said, it's not really hot ATM, and might still be a heat issue. I've just been too lazy to swap out the modem telslut sent me. (single port, i'd need to find a switch to hang it off... VERY odd topolgy @ the house... Office has modem, 2x systems in there, port to under the stairs, were 42ru rack lives, with 24port layer 3 switch, ports to the outlying walls around the stairs, wireless there, (center point of house), for iphones, laptops and media box) ... AND considing it was just an ADSL 1 port switch from TPG to telstra, (which is the same network), me d/l speed doubled. happy with that... yay for telstra. :)

Stuck!

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:15:27 GMT

ok, i went from TPG to Telstra recently. We have landline and 1x teltstra mobile, mean we get a $30 discount cos total per month cos we did it on line a few months ago, and didn't want the WIFI modem, (@ the time that was a $129 upgrade. Guessing why what you're quoted seems about $10 more expensive then what i have) I didn't need a modem, i had one but i got them to send me the free single port modem anyway. it's nice to have a spare. I can only get ADSL1. bugger, but that's no different to TPG. here's the thing. TPG's DSL2+ plans are great. BUT all DSL1 plans accross the board are expensive for the bandwidth you get. (eg: $99 for 50gb on TPG. I think they've just uped it to 120gb) Here's the thing. MOST ISP's offering ADSL1 are re-selling Telstra copper. When telstra's CEO changed earlier in the year, he's asked them WTF are they doing with such expensive plans for their customers, make it cheaper!!! July 1, it happened. They didn't change the pricing for the wholesellers. Opps. Hence the BEST priced plan for ADSL1 is telstra hands down. On a side note, even thou if my exchange could handle ADSL2, cos i'm SO far away from it, i acutally get a slightly faster downstream speed with ADSL1. Also, once i churned to telstra, (man, it's sooo hard to type telstra properly... keep typing telstut), my speednet test speeds increased, downstream's doubled, latence decreased about 10% At the end of the day, i'm happy with the move. And i expected to be disappointed, honestly. (That siad, it did take a 45min fone call to them to fix the online order.)

Stuck!

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 13:21:18 GMT

AND the best thing about telstra is they have 4 plans. you pick the bandwidth you need, and they'll connect the fastest net they can. makes it's a no-brainer for the typical noobie, AND makes life mega easy if you move. If i sell my house, and move into an ADSL2 area, i dont have to change my plan. If i kept with TPG i'd have to cancel the DSL1 and re-sign the DSL2 honestly, this is the first thing Telstra's done that's acutally worth the comment, since ADSL was brought into the country in time for Big Brother S01. gawd that was a long time ago.... (i bought ADSL from them as soon as it was avail. in SE QLD. Was sooo cool! i was sooo young then... )

Recording TV via WiFi?

Fri, 14 May 2010 13:42:28 GMT

Glad i could help

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:09:20 GMT

umm... i dont think i, (or anyone else), understand your question... With the right equipment, (im' sure JAYCAR sell something), you can transmit AV from point to point, "Via WIF", do you mean wireless LAN? If so, you'll need to convert the signal, Via a PC or Media device or DVR, into a file that can be recognized and saved to the attached storage on the network. @ which point, you've essentially got a computer that has a TV capture card that's saving to a Network Share Via WIFI. I personally have a Media box, set up beside my TV that lets me watch all my backup movies, and lisen to all my backup music on the File server i have setup else where in the house. The media box is connected Via wifi to the main network, using a netgear WN311B to an Asus RT11-N router. As these aren't matched, i can't connect faster then 54mbps, BUT it's stable, and fast enuf to stream 1080p MKV files without problems. Said Media box was built with parts i had lieing around, were all i needed was a case to look cool, and a decent TV capture card, (Leadtek DV3200H i think? something like that anyway). So setup cost about $200, at the end of the day. If i had needed to buy the parts, (Abit X38, E2140, 4gb DDR2, 150tb Raptor, LG Bluray burner, 9500GT), would have cost more obviously Case i'm running is the Coolermaster 360 desktop/tower case. Room enuf for a full size board. Hope this helps

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:10:08 GMT

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:11:53 GMT

[quote=GKPort]Is it possible to record TV onto HDD via WIFi or do I need hard wire connectivity?[/quote] umm... i dont think i, (or anyone else), understand your question... With the right equipment, (im' sure JAYCAR sell something), you can transmit AV from point to point, "Via WIF", do you mean wireless LAN? If so, you'll need to convert the signal, Via a PC or Media device or DVR, into a file that can be recognized and saved to the attached storage on the network. @ which point, you've essentially got a computer that has a TV capture card that's saving to a Network Share Via WIFI. Hope this helps I personally have a Media box, set up beside my TV that lets me watch all my backup movies, and lisen to all my backup music on the File server i have setup else where in the house. The media box is connected Via wifi to the main network, using a netgear WN311B to an Asus RT11-N router. As these aren't matched, i can't connect faster then 54mbps, BUT it's stable, and fast enuf to stream 1080p MKV files without problems. Said Media box was built with parts i had lieing around, were all i needed was a case to look cool, and a decent TV capture card, (Leadtek DV3200H i think? something like that anyway). So setup cost about $200, at the end of the day. If i had needed to buy the parts, (Abit X38, E2140, 4gb DDR2, 150tb Raptor, LG Bluray burner, 9500GT), would have cost more obviously Case i'm running is the Coolermaster 360 desktop/tower case. Room enuf for a full size board.

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:12:25 GMT

can't post to this topic!

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:13:27 GMT

ok, strange... anyway [quote=GKPort]Is it possible to record TV onto HDD via WIFi or do I need hard wire connectivity?[/quote] umm... i dont think i, (or anyone else), understand your question... With the right equipment, (im' sure JAYCAR sell something), you can transmit AV from point to point, but "Via WIF", do you mean wireless LAN? If so, you'll need to convert the signal, Via a PC or Media device or DVR, into a file that can be recognized and saved to the attached storage on the network. @ which point, you've essentially got a computer that has a TV capture card that's saving to a Network Share Via WIFI.

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:14:36 GMT

keeps coming up with moderate error when i try and post a reply. can you please clarify your question?

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:15:09 GMT

umm... i dont think i, (or anyone else), understand your question...

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:15:47 GMT

With the right equipment, (im' sure JAYCAR sell something), you can transmit AV from point to point, "Via WIF", do you mean wireless LAN?

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:16:35 GMT

If so, you'll need to convert the signal, Via a PC or Media device or DVR, into a file that can be recognized and saved to the attached storage on the network.

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:18:32 GMT

If so, you'll need to convert the signal, (using a PC or Media device or DVR), into a file that can be saved to the attached storage on the network.

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:19:59 GMT

if you mean Wireless Lan, you'll need a PC with a TV capture card in it to save the recorded TV to a place on your network

Recording TV via WiFi?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:20:35 GMT

Hope this helps I personally have a Media box, set up beside my TV that lets me watch all my backup movies, and lisen to all my backup music on the File server i have setup else where in the house. The media box is connected Via wifi to the main network, using a netgear WN311B to an Asus RT11-N router. As these aren't matched, i can't connect faster then 54mbps, BUT it's stable, and fast enuf to stream 1080p MKV files without problems. Said Media box was built with parts i had lieing around, were all i needed was a case to look cool, and a decent TV capture card, (Leadtek DV3200H i think? something like that anyway). So setup cost about $200, at the end of the day. If i had needed to buy the parts, (Abit X38, E2140, 4gb DDR2, 150tb Raptor, LG Bluray burner, 9500GT), would have cost more obviously Case i'm running is the Coolermaster 360 desktop/tower case. Room enuf for a full size board.

Best Powerline kit

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 11:49:12 GMT

I didn't realized they even HAD security on them most of these things stop working once you try and leave one of the phases on your electrical circuit. so they shouldn't work once they've hit the power box, and should leave your property line. This mean's they'd be pretty useless @ my house, and it has 2 phases of power running to it, and probably wouldn't work on a random number of outlets. it's good to see it works for you.

Home Network Issues..

Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:45:30 GMT

make sure the firewall is turned off on your vista machine, and that you haven't set something screwy reg you're routers wireless network. some routers will let you block all traffic to you're wireless connections except net traffic. Also, you'll need to make sure you have set a username and password for an account for the samba server, (from what i remember, it's been ages since i've done this...), and you can access the server via \\ Also, if you plan to just use this linux box for a file share, you might want to look @ openfiler, or is you REALLY want a challenge, install a copy of Sun microsystems opensolaris, and setup Zfs RAIDZ file system and share. i have plays with both, and the solaris setup installed and worked great on an old PIII dual CPU server i found. The only odd thing was, and i'm thinking it was just i wsa using such old gear, sustained reads, (so copy to a machine off the server), only managed about 20-30mbps, were writes were pushing the 50-60mbps. Considering it was setup as bascially a raid 5, should have been the other way round. @ the time, computes were OC core 2 duos running Vista, and i was/am runnign layer3 managed Gigabit surecom switches

What's your current Internet setup?

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 10:21:55 GMT

you realize the speed drop is cos you are doulble NATing, (i can't remember how we set that up, thou i DO remember giving you the pointer that made it work) QOS is probably a factor as well, how's the latency? i bet you gain a few millisec if you bypass the TPlink as well.

What's your current Internet setup?

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 13:33:17 GMT

if it was me, i'd setup my file server/download box on the modem, which is faster, on one network card, and the another network card on the TP link set up the 1st NIC with the default gateway, (IP of the modem that it's plugged into), and 2nd with no gateway, so it will only pass Internet traffic down the modem, not the TP link router You can remote into box, or setup your download software to check a folder were you drop the "torrents", (not that I do THAT...), so you take advantage of the extra speed, without upsetting your current setup. This obviously requires a file server that is actually a PC with 2x network cards, and some basic knowledge of TCP/IP networking. infact you wouldn't even need that, as long as they are all on the same Subnet - subnet for everything = 255.255.0.0 Modem = 10.1.0.1 fileserver = 10.1.0.2 TPlink = 10.1.1.1 everything that side of the TP link = 10.1.1.x you'll still be able to get to 10.1.0.2 without issue, and you'll be able to run DHCP on both the modem and the TP link, as long as you make sure they dont overlap, (EG, you have the modem set from 10.1.0.2-10.1.0.255 and the TP link 10.1.1.2-10.1.1.255), but i'd still turn off DHCP on the modem, and set all the IP's on that side static. you've kinda got the same setup as me, but my WIFI router is ONLY for WIFI traffic and connection to my 360. everything else is the other side of router, and not an issue. that said, that's only my fileserver, and whatever computer i'm useing @ the time, sitting on my desk.

Network Path Cost.

Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:01:36 GMT

let me get this straight, you have your computer plug into your router, on LAN port1, into your router, into the net, then LAN port2, into your LAB, that's connected to the same network, into the same router. they are all on the same IP and subnet? you only need one network cable plugged into the same network. so if i'm reading the above right, then you can disconnect the cable from your computer to the LAB, and still be connect to the computers in that room. if i'm reading that right. my setup for the same thing would be - My computer connected to the router LAB computers connected to a switch in that room Switch on that room connected to router the other option is to set the Default gateway to nothing on the 10Base port, which will effectively disconnect it from the web, but still give you access to computers on the same subnet on that network. still... maybe you need to read up on TCP/IP network topology before you go any further

Best Powerline kit

Wed, 13 Jul 2011 20:31:48 GMT

from what i can gather of this tech, you MIGHT bleed into next door, but they'd have to be running the same gear you are to get into the home network. AS FAR AS I KNOW. i've never had to play with anything like this. Maybe send an email to technical support of the manufacturer

Shared Bandwidth

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 14:27:25 GMT

There is a finite amount of bandwidth available, and yes it it shared with the users. This is so everyone get's a fair use of the network. for example, say you are on an ADSL plan with a connection speed of 1.5mbps downstream, and say the network as a whole has the headroom for 100mbps. This means you can have 66 ppl using the network at the same time before ppl start feeling the effects. so if 66 ppl download a huge file, all @ the same time, they'll be able to get 1.5mbps. make it 67, and it'll drop marginally, and so on. it's called contention ratio. And this is all assuming that you CAN pull that much information from were you are downloading, and between you and the exchange, (or tower), you can sustain that amount of bandwidth. which is pretty rare anyway. And of corse, the likelyhold that EVERYONE on the network is going be downloading huge amounts of data @ the same time is slim, so the telco's play the risk, and would have 200 ppl on the above plan, so and say that the 1.5mbps is the MAX possible, not the sustained or average to cover them selves. hope this explains everything

Cat 5 or Cat 6

Tue, 06 Dec 2011 21:31:30 GMT

Ummm... Pretty sure you've just discribed Sheilded twsited pair over unsheilded twisted pair Tony, not Cat5 over Cat6. Cat5, Cat5E and Cat6 UTP, (unsheilded twisted pair), are as such - Cat5 - 5 twists per a distance, (pretty sure it's per inch) Cat6 - 6 twsts Cat5E - 5twist over 2 pairs, 6 twists over the other 2 ALL things considered, Cat5 = 100mbps, were Cat5E and Cat6 = 1gbps. The way the wire's twisted reduces crosstalk, and eliminates the need to sheilding, making it cheaper. UTP is good for about 180m, were STP, (Sheilded twsit pair), is good for a much greater distance i do this for a living, and we always use Cat5E. never had an issue, running in many different situations, infact, we have a 100m strand from our office, throu the next door warehouse to the office in the 3rd building to connect one of our clients to our network to facilitate offsite backup you also need to make sure you get punch downs to suit, so when you grab the cable, make sure you get ends to suit. JR Turk or L&H are the go, we usually use JRT. 305m rol of Cat5E is usually about $150, ends are about $11 each, like the clipsal ones which you can get wall panels that look like your light switches, and you'll find it easiest to use a KRONE Punch down tool, (EBAY, cheap). and if you're worried, there is a nylon string in the guts of the cable, so it's less likely to break as you pull it from point to point. also, if you plan to run more than one point in the same room, (not a bad idea, since you can run HDMI over Cat5 with the right gear, and other stuff like home automation), buy more boxes of cable. pulling 4 strands is easiest out of 4 boxes, then doing it 4 times to the same place. hope this helps

modem stopping traffic.

Tue, 03 Apr 2012 21:13:20 GMT

The only thing i can think of is your computer is running as the DNS server. as in, the DNS service is turned on in the w7 pc, and when it's on, it's taking over the DNS services from the modem. which is odd, as a typical install of w7 doesn't have DNS turned on. DNS turns http://www addresses into IP addresses. The way to test this is, ping a website, like google, and get the IP Address. turn off the w7 PC so it breaks, and ping the IP Address you just wrote down. IF you get a reponce, that's your problem. The otherway to test is to use the command nslookup and see if you get an error when you look up an address. If you dont, then change the server to googles primay DNS server, (in nslookup type server 8.8.8.8 hit enter, and it'll use that over the default), and see if you get a responce. IF you don't, then for some reason, your DHCP server's not handing out the Default Gateway address correctly, or you have an IP conflict. Check the IP address that your w7 machine is running, and note the default gateway. it should be the same IP address as the your modem. check the IP address of a computer that has net access but not he system in question. it should have the same default gateway address. turn off the w7 comp, and see if the addresses change. Acutally, there's is one thing you didn't mention. you said you changed your case. did that include a PSU? is the modem pluged into the same powerboard? what if the new PSU is feeding back into the modem, glitching the connection? stranger things have happened. Plug your modem in somewhere else if you can

modem stopping traffic.

Sun, 08 Apr 2012 22:29:37 GMT

[quote=keith1053]What I have done is swapped two of the computer ethernet slots. This computer (office) is now in the slot another computer (lounge) was using and vica versa. The problem seems to be fixed[/quote] Why are you using your computers ethernet like this? you SHOULD have your network as such (ignore the .....) internet ..| Router - (wifi) ..|- win7 computer ..|- computer(office) ..|- computer(lounge) What you discribed sounds like this. internet ..| Router - (wifi) ..|- win7 computer .........|- computer(office) .........|- computer(lounge) So of corse, when the turn off the computer, it'll loose net somewere. IF you are ut of ports on your router invest in a cheap switch. 10/100 will do, as long as you dont want to transfer files over it, the net's slow. still recon it's a DNS issue.

Best phone provider?

Fri, 15 Jul 2011 12:52:33 GMT

GUYS, how old is this post? ... i'm sure a couple of well thought out google searches will give you the information you seek

June2011 DVD Index

Thu, 22 Sep 2011 14:53:12 GMT

just to you are aware, the APC team is working on a replacement for this website, that has been glitchy from day one. Stay posted for a bigger and brighter experience. (and if you're wondering why that's relevent, i guess they are too busy to fixing something broken that's going to be completely replaced soon anyway)

Carpoint ad seeing "enter" key in FF

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 13:13:23 GMT

yeah... i noticed this ages ago. SO, i just make sure that the site keeps me logged in, and it's not a problem. BTW, i'm pretty sure a new website will be launched soon, so it'll be fixed then

APC PLEASE FIX COMMENTS !!!!!!!!!!!!

Fri, 27 May 2011 14:35:14 GMT

yeah, they are working on a new CMS, which should go live soon. that reply thing on the Articles has been broken for a bit now, i dont think it's an easy fix.

Doe's anyone know why?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:27:42 GMT

OK, i've been trying to post a reply to this forum, and @ the end of it, as you can see, i save the reply in notepad, and post each line until i found a line that wouldn't post [url=http://apcmag.com/forum.htm?g=posts&m=7944Ἀ]Link to forum post[/url] OBVIOUSLY, i've love to post the line, and show you what i'm doing, and i'll infact try and post it as a reply in a second, but i'm guessing that there is a word in the obsanity filter, and moderated post are getting dumped completely.

Doe's anyone know why?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:28:48 GMT

ok... here we go, "If so, you'll need to convert the signal, Via a PC or Media device or DVR, into a file that can be recognized and saved to the attached storage on the network."

Doe's anyone know why?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:30:24 GMT

ok, tried and failed. i'm adding a . between each letter, and and each work on a new line. one of these words is in the filter, and need to be removed.

Doe's anyone know why?

Tue, 11 May 2010 14:33:41 GMT

ok, i've pulled the to, the, in, a, stuff that really does work... y.o.u.'.l.l n.e.e.d c.o.n.v.e.r.t s.i.g.n.a.l V.i.a P.C M.e.d.i.a d.e.v.i.c.e D.V.R f.i.l.e t.h.a.t r.e.c.o.g.n.i.z.e.d s.a.v.e.d a.t.t.a.c.h.e.d s.t.o.r.a.g.e n.e.t.w.o.r.k

Doe's anyone know why?

Thu, 10 Jun 2010 11:56:48 GMT

mind you, it IS really hard NOT to swear, as i have terets. or how ever you #$#%ing spell that :)

Doe's anyone know why?

Mon, 17 May 2010 09:45:51 GMT

AWESOME... i was right :) i'm just glad that's sorted... cos it was getting frustrating

Doe's anyone know why?

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:17:31 GMT

unless it's something they've changed. My Ram latency post was a novel.